Hayk

iTrader: (1)

4. The previous owner mentioned that his CEL comes on when the gas needle drops below the halfway point. I knew that it had to do something with the fuel lines, so this is a good sign. There is a bendy hose that connects the fuel filler neck with the gas tank, and it's covered in some sticky goo. Seems like the fuel might be leaking out of it, but I'm not sure. If anyone has had a similar issue, let me know. I'm going to try cleaning it and see if I can find something obvious. I'm going to scan for codes, once I get done with the engine work.

It's #8 on this diagram.

EEngineer

CV boot is fine the way it is. spewing a lil grease is the least of ur worries. as long as it's not ripped, it's fine. they probably just overfilled with the grease, which doesn't hurt.

as for rear sway bar movement, you'll need to get brand new bushings, and possibly bushing brackets to make it stop wiggling around too much.

gas tank thing is fine the way it is as well. it's simply the inlet of your gas tank.

when u replace ur rear bank valve cover gasket, while u are at it replace the sparkplug, plug wires, spark plug tube grommet, pcv valve

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Thank you EEngineer, you've been very helpful.

I didn't think about the PCV Valve, I'll add it to the list. Do you know what spark plugs I need - I only know that it's either NGK or Denso, but what's the part number?

EEngineer

you are very welcome.

get NGK sparkplugs, they are cheap and much easier to get than Denso ones.

there are lots of different series within NGK, regular copper, platinum, iridium, iridium laser etc ...

for regular driving, just get platinum ones. i think they should run about $12 for a pair, maybe even cheaper south in the states lol.

make sure to use anti-seize when u install the plug.

yeldogt

The owners manual will list the correct plug -- we get them from Autohaus. The oldest ES we have currently is a 2000 -- so no plug wires.

Can't comment on the shield - other than Toyota thought it to be important. Some are not needed under normal conditions but my be if you pull onto dry grass or if the C Converter overheats.


I would wait until you get a code for the tank problem before replacing anything.

The drive shaft should not leak -- it looks to be original so I don't think it was refilled. They do sometime start to leak at the edges as they age - if the rubber is OK you can replace the clamp. They make replacement boots -- but by the time you install one you are 1/2 way to a rebuilt shaft. Clean it off and see how much it is actually leaking.

The rubber parts are easy to replace and very inexpensive from Toyota -- and they fit.

Leaking -- they do tend to leak as they age. The timing belt has a service interval of 90k and all of the leaking seals get replaced at that point.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

What other seals, besides the valve covers, are a common concern on these engines?

yeldogt

If you look at the full service kit for the timing belt -- it comes with the cam seals and a couple of others. They tend to seep -- we never have them actually drip out on the ground -- but the engines get rather dirty.

We wipe them off at the oil service to make sure we don't have more problems - We don't normally clean the engines with running water - especially the old ones.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

After giving it some thought, I realized that I must have a gas leak somewhere around that area. Because I remembered that the rear sway bar had some corrosion right under that bendy hose. And if I recall correctly, gasoline can take off paint if it's not cleaned off. Anyways, I'll look into it a bit more, once I get my engine back together.

p.s.: I messed up my original post by accident