D-Boi

iTrader: (5)

Hello ladies and gents. I finally got around to replacing the number 1 coil today on the ES. This is what was causing me to have a rough idle and a CEL as well *** VSC and VSC off lights. Replaced the coil and the car ran perfectly until it warmed up where it started to shut down on its own. Now only the VSC and VSC lights came on but no CEL.

I thought it could maybe be the IAC so i went ahead and took it apart and thoroughly cleaned that as well as the TB and re installed. The car runs perfectly but still stalls.

I did however have the battery unplugged for like 10 days while the car was in the garage. For the first few times i would start it as long as i kept my foot on the accelerator it would run fine but eventually die if i let off the gas.

Another thing is that after about 10 minutes of it running with my foot on the accelerator it shut off and the battery was dead to where i couldnt start it anymore. Does this sound like a bad alternator in that it wasnt keeping the battery charged enough or could it be a bad battery? (i dont see how thouth seeing how for the first 10-15 minutes it started perfectly.) Any ideas would be more than greatly appreciated and welcomed

D-Boi

iTrader: (5)

Quick note I would like to post on here, maybe some of you have some input on this.

The iac gasket the little rubber piece, I ended up reusing it and indeed it was a little weatherd and beat down but still intact. Could it be that this gasket is not sealing properly and causing for a vacuum leak which will keep the car from running?

Any thoughts, comments?

angmedic91

iTrader: (5)

Im no expert, but I would say scan your car for a code, even thou you dont have a CEL, you might have a pending code in memory. IF you have a pending code, this will point you in a better direction. Other things to consider may be a faulty EGR valve or maybe a faulty MAF sensor. Just some food for thought, like I said, I'm no expert, just stuff I've picked up from the pros on here. Good Luck.

pauloil

before assuming an alt. is bad, check the cables and batt posts and cable ends.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

if you unplug MAF does it run any better? I know on a volvo that could point you to a bad MAF.

D-Boi

iTrader: (5)

The car runs perfectly while my foot is on the gas but once I let go it turns off right away so there is no way I can check the Mass air flow deal. I will try unplugging it and see if it keeps from stalling. Right now I'm all out of ideas and my buddy who's got the scanner is busy as heck workin 7 days a week 10 hour days I feel bad to drag him out here, but this effin car hasn't moved in almost 2 months and its pissin me off because I'm paying full insurance on the damned thing.

dewinks

If the engine is at operating temperature (~180F) does it do this stalling thing? Does it only do when cold? Only hot? Both? these are important details.