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97 ES300 Suspension

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Old 01-14-11, 02:04 PM
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byacs
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Default 97 ES300 Suspension

Hello all.

I think i still have the original suspension on my 97 ES300...it has well over 100k.

Lately when it switches gears...the car actually kinda swerves, like there were grooves in the road...it seems to be getting worse. You can almost panic and overcorrect...and that'd be no good in some situations. So my procrastination is getting called out.

The front struts have always made some noise on bumps...i was told it was the "strut caps" from the lexus dealer.
The back shocks are pretty squeaky and when people are in the back seat it will rub on the tires. I put 17" wheels on it...so that isn't helping.

So...bottom line...I'm assuming i need work on all sides of the suspension. From what i've read here in previous posts....being cheap and not replacing every seal/gasket etc as well as the main struts/shocks will only cause a bunch of noise.
I've had some quick estimates for struts and shocks replaced when i took it in for inspections...it wasn't pretty. The cost of all this could make me consider if i want his car at all anymore if you know what i mean. It's been a good car.

Anybody able to quickly ballpark the options i may have?

Does the adjustable suspension bs spell higher costs fewer options?
Can i order the parts myself and have someone do it cheaper than taking it in?

Thanks for any insight here.
Old 01-14-11, 03:32 PM
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LeX2K
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If you get the parts yourself you will need:
  • Upper strut mount (Toyota calls it a suspension support)
  • Bearing (maybe)
  • Strut
  • Upper insulator (also called a bellows)
  • Spring bumper
  • Lower insulator
  • Coil spring (if damaged or rusted)

The back is the same thing but no bearing. Price it out at your favorite parts store. The fronts are very easy to install yourself, the backs harder because you have to take the back seat and rear deck off, plus the sway bar links have to be removed which can be a problem if they are rusted.

Old 01-14-11, 03:34 PM
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Coulter
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It's definitely a tough call to make about whether to repair your car or keep it. It sounds like in your case (the car is unsafe) you need to make a decision one way or another pretty quick.

To replace all 4 of the struts and strut mounts, your probably looking at $700-$800 minimum in parts, and probably around 4-5 hours of labor from a shop, so $1,200 total if you're taking it somewhere (and that would be a good price, imo) It sounds like you have more issues than just the struts (possibly ball joints, tie rods, etc.) so you could be looking at around $2,000 if you're paying someone to repair it.

Your car is probably worth around $3,500. Every car I've owned required money for repairs (except new cars with warranties) so there is no guarantee a newer car means you won't also have to spend money on repairs.

It probably depends more with your own plans. If the car is in poor shape (faded paint, cracked interior, etc) and you don't plan on keeping it for more than a year, I would probably sell it and move on. If it's a car you could be happy driving for the next couple years, it's probably worth the investment.

Just to put it in perspective, my brother bought a new Lexus around 5 years ago for around $33,000, his car is now worth around $12,000 and he's had to put about a grand in maintenance and about a grand for 2 sets of tires. So he's "lost" $20,000 so far, and at around 60k miles, will have more repair bills in the future.

There's no question owning a reliable, older used car cost less money than the depreciation on a new(er) car, but sometimes a car gets to a point where you're just throwing good money after bad.
Old 01-17-11, 08:41 AM
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byacs
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Wow...thanks...nicely done guys...that's really helpful.

It's a close call. IT'S PAID OFF....the car is in decent shape...a few dings now....this model has held it's own for a long time...i'm pretty thankful. I'm guessing it needs rods too...or something more serious to make it be so jerky. So i think its realistic to prepare for a 2k reality...or more...like you said Coulter. Which is what i was afraid of.

This is why i wanted to check in with you guys...if i'm gonna have someone look or do anything...i needed to know where the lines are...i'm glad to pay someone if it's cost effective...for sure. As i see it...i might be able to do the front end myself if it's easier...but i don't intend to do alot of work myself...period....not my thing so much. If i thought the front end (and what i could do myself) would solve it...i'd be in for it.

$1200 for all four is painful...but realistic...i'd pull the trigger on that if i could get the nod from a mechanic that that would solve the current issues....it's the extra thousands that i'm preparing for here.

Thanks for the advice...I'll probably need to take it in and have a mechanic give me their .02
Old 01-17-11, 09:16 AM
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01LEXPL
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Why not skip out on OEM stuff, and get coilovers?

Ksport & D2 coilovers are <1k$ from eBay... Install would take just as long for both options and strut mounts are <60$ from ebay for both side in the front.

Just a suggestions if your thinking about doing this soon.

Ksport
D2

Just found these, lowering springs WITH struts ~400$ or so.

Last edited by 01LEXPL; 01-17-11 at 09:21 AM.
Old 01-17-11, 09:39 AM
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byacs
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Interesting...thanks!
Ebay would be great if the price is right...could go through work.

Yeah...having to do something soon. It's kept me from traveling within the state a little bit recently...and it's dangerous now.

Sorry, I'm not too savvy here...
I'm not sure what i'm getting with coilovers...mostly performance...adjustable height etc? Is this just using better higher end parts basically?

With anything not oem...do i run the risk of things not fitting like oem...making noise...and/or causing dashboard light bs? As noobtastic as it sounds....I don't wanna deal with that stupid effing light! hehe
Old 01-17-11, 09:54 AM
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byacs
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Originally Posted by 01LEXPL

Just a suggestions if your thinking about doing this soon.

Just found these, lowering springs WITH struts ~400$ or so.
Is this as cheap as it sounds? The lowering part might be cool too if its not real obvious looking. I'm not that clear on what all i'd need to complete this set...but assuming this auction makes up the bulk of the cost?

Any obvious busts or cons that i'm missing with an auction or route like this? My friend just said i might wanna get the mechanic sorted before i buy parts myself...as many aren't willing to install 'your' parts...etc.

Last edited by byacs; 01-17-11 at 10:01 AM.
Old 01-17-11, 10:38 AM
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CircuitMS
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We could get you a set of full replacement coilovers if you'd like, would replace springs, mounts and shocks. Just shoot us a PM
Old 01-17-11, 04:57 PM
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sphillips
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How does the car handle on the straight and level when not shifting? Just thinking about alignment, rod ends, etc.
Old 01-17-11, 05:05 PM
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nine3es
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i was thinking about my car, it was acting similar and after i got under it discovered the lower control arm bushings were GONE. only a small cross member keeping it from literally flying off the car. i replaced the control arms with fleabay ones almost 2 yrs ago now with no problems. had to get a 4 wheel alignment after i replaced them.

on another note, gabriel struts are only about $70ea at autozone.
Old 01-18-11, 09:04 PM
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gmac1337
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My 98 es300 with 120k miles does the same thing when accelerating. When the car shifts from 1st to 2nd, the car swerves left. At first I thought it was my tires but the I checked the pressure and they were the same for all four corners. I need to find time to get the suspension checked out. Hopefully it's just the bushings that need replacements. Please keep us updated if you get the problem fixed.
Old 01-19-11, 09:22 AM
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byacs
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Yeah...will do. I'm still slacking...I plan to take it in very soon. I'll let you know what ends up happening.

After looking at all the pics and mods here on this site...pretty sure i went through them all...again...it has me wanting to stick with this car a bit longer.

I'm semi interested in lowering it a bit...not sure what i'm getting into. Is it as easy as adding springs...done?
I have 17" wheels...and slightly wider and lower profile tires...would be cool to sit down on the tires a little...but its rubbing now with people in the back seat...so i'm not sure how possible it is.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/3...onecarpics.jpg
Old 02-08-11, 03:21 AM
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Finally took my car in to a mechanic i've used before and trust overall. As expected...the estimate is pushing around 2k...pretty much all the stuff we've discussed is trashed...and i'm not even sure we've gotten to the back axle yet. I was having a hard time understanding his wife on the phone. Glad i did some research here...thanks...not sure i have any more options than stuffing all stock oem parts on there unless i want to do the job myself...and i'm not convinced i'd be able to do it...or be glad i did. After talking here...and looking on ebay for a day or two before...looked like i could get parts much cheaper....so i'll probably revisit that before i decide to pay him.

Not sure what i'll do yet...going in to talk in person this am.
Might be time for a car payment again. sucks
Old 02-08-11, 04:13 AM
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BunthaKev
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Default Es300

Originally Posted by byacs
Interesting...thanks!
Ebay would be great if the price is right...could go through work.

Yeah...having to do something soon. It's kept me from traveling within the state a little bit recently...and it's dangerous now.

Sorry, I'm not too savvy here...
I'm not sure what i'm getting with coilovers...mostly performance...adjustable height etc? Is this just using better higher end parts basically?

With anything not oem...do i run the risk of things not fitting like oem...making noise...and/or causing dashboard light bs? As noobtastic as it sounds....I don't wanna deal with that stupid effing light! hehe
RockAuto.com has the lowest prices. check them out. and is there a coumunity college near you with an auto tech program? Because they'll usualy do the work for free. But its Risk verses reward there. just a THOUGHT.
Old 02-08-11, 08:11 AM
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01LEXPL
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Originally Posted by byacs
Finally took my car in to a mechanic i've used before and trust overall. As expected...the estimate is pushing around 2k...pretty much all the stuff we've discussed is trashed...and i'm not even sure we've gotten to the back axle yet. I was having a hard time understanding his wife on the phone. Glad i did some research here...thanks...not sure i have any more options than stuffing all stock oem parts on there unless i want to do the job myself...and i'm not convinced i'd be able to do it...or be glad i did. After talking here...and looking on ebay for a day or two before...looked like i could get parts much cheaper....so i'll probably revisit that before i decide to pay him.

Not sure what i'll do yet...going in to talk in person this am.
Might be time for a car payment again. sucks
2K sounds right for OEM parts. If you would go aftermarket it would be much cheaper. Aka, i did brake pads/rotors/rear bearing for 250$ 'installed' where TOYOTA wanted 80$ for a set of FRONT pads...

Originally Posted by BunthaKev
RockAuto.com has the lowest prices. check them out. and is there a coumunity college near you with an auto tech program? Because they'll usualy do the work for free. But its Risk verses reward there. just a THOUGHT.
Nice, someone else knows about these guys. I've never ordered from them though.

We used to work on our teachers' cars in high school, so i'm sure the college students will be more 'pro' about it then myself when I was 17 lol.


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