donbryce

I reviewed several threads and the debate over how to get at those back 3 plugs, remove intake or use several extensions and flex-joints. I decided to remove the intake. I started at 12:45pm, and had the intake completely off by about 3:00pm. I previously ordered and had the new gasket in hand.

Part of the reasoning here was that I also needed to get lots of room to drill out the top (thank goodness) sheared-off bolt holding the distributor, and that it probably would've been 1 1/2 hours of frustration trying to get #3 and #5 plugs out with the thing in place. I know others have done this, but it isn't hard at all to take the manifold off, just lots of vacuum lines, water lines, 1 fuel connector, a couple of ground connections and 1/2 dozen bolts/nuts. Nothing a good DIY'er shouldn't be able to handle.

From memory, the disassembly procedure was:
- undo clamp for main air inlet hose at the TB end, unclip air filter housing, remove small leftside hose and MAF connector, remove air hose assembly.
- undo throttle and cruise cables, 2 10mm bolts, vacuum lines, and tie the bracket with cables off to the left.
- Remove front cover, 2 bolts holding the fuel emissions rail, vacuum line(s), tie the rail off to the front (access to 2 manifold bolts).
- At the back, remove 1 engine support bolt, 2 bolts for the EGR pipe (watch out for the gasket!), 1 bolt for the support stay, and 1 for the PS hose to the fan bracket.
- Left side, (passenger side) remove ground wires nut, fuel inlet banjo fitting, vacuum hoses (hard to detail in words, but these vacuum and water hoses are very easy to see), and cold start injector wire connector.
- right side (driver), unplug TPS and ICV connectors, water lines and vacuum lines (only those necessary to remove the manifold).
- Undo the 2 bolts and nuts at the front holding the manifold to the block, lift it up, and note any resistance. If there is resistance, you forgot to undo a hose, a wire, or a bolt/nut. Finish the disconnect and remove it, complete with TB and ICV, from the engine.

There in all it's glory is the top of the motor, all plug caps easily accessible. If you haven't done so, now it the time to clean the TB and ICV, on the bench.

Reassembly should be done ASAP, so you don't forget where all the hoses and bolts go!

I forgot to plug in the MAF connector, so had all kinds of hell starting it up again....and as of yesterday, the idle speed is once again up in the 1000 rpm range - what the ****** is with this computer control and idle speed anyway? Today I'll be (again) spending hours trying to get the idle back to 700. I don't understand how forgetting the MAF connector could mess up the computer. Why doesn't it reset (I did do all the work with battery disconnected, plus pulled the EFI relay for 10 seconds after plugging it in) immediately?

Sorry, no pictures, but lots of those in other threads. I was able to change the back 3 plugs on my 1996 Camry (1MZFE) with some innovative flex-extensions, but the 3VZFE has a much different intake shape. Next time, I'd be able to remove it in probably 3/4 hour or less.