I'm having problems with the front passenger power window on a 96 Lexus ES300. Using its own local switch, the window comes down, but NOT up. Using the driverside master pod, the window goes down and up with no problems. I'm suspecting a faulty front passenger side power window switch.
I obtained a replacement power window switch from a dismantler (he guaranteed the part to be functional), but this switch also made the window go down but NOT up. I'm suspecting I got a dud part... so I pull a "known-to-be-good" switch from a rear door panel and tested it up front. But again, window comes down, but NOT up. In fact, I tested both "suspected-to-be-bad" switches on the rear window, and they worked perfectly.
So... all my switches seem to be good, and I'm thinking wiring harness or motor. I find the leads to the front passenger window motor and connect a battery directly up to it, reverse the polarity, and the window went up and down just fine. This tells me the motor is good. I trace the same colored wires back to the switch-end of the wire harness and connected the battery up to the respective connectors (two outermost contacts), reversed the polarity, and the window went up and down just fine. This tells me that the wiring harness is good.
SO... through my testing, it seems like the switches are good, wiring harness and motor are also good. Did I make any wrong conclusions with my testing? Is there some other wiring issue here? Are there any other possiblities? Is it possible that the culprit is actually the driver side pod?
I went to a local repair shop to show them the problem. The technician pushed the buttons, and felt that he was 95% sure that it was MOST LIKELY the master pod.
Wanting to get a confirmation, I went to the Lexus dealer to show them the problem, they had a technician come out, pushed all the power window buttons, and said that it was very UNLIKELY to be the master pod since it was able to control all the windows fine. They said they would need to look at wiring diagrams and do a electrical diagnosis (minimum cost of 2hr labor) to find out what the problem is. I told them I'd get back to them about setting up an appointment.
Well, a new master switch is ~$300 at the dealer. I went to www.car-parts.com and located a salavged one for $55 shipped, so I ordered it. I figured that's a good gamble for $55 vs. $200 diagnosis +$300 part at the dealer if they end up with the same diagnosis.
Anyway, I installed the salvaged master power window switch pod, and WOOHOO!! all the switches worked perfectly!!
Just thought I share the story with y'all... Makes me wonder about the competence of the technician at that dealer...
Move Over Rover: you need to most definetely go back to the dealer and inform them of their poor assessment. Do it in a nice way to help them save face, but you should have the service manager and general manager present. This is one way to let them know that their high "diagnostic" costs are absurd.
good luck and I must say I am very impressed with the detective work.