Easy on seafoam
06-14-09, 07:59 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Easy on seafoam
I just hydrolocked my dirty engine 10min ago by putting to much seafoam on it,wont even crank no more,same symptoms when the timing belt breaks.I think nothing got bent though(as far as i know) drives ok.Took the bank1 plugs off, restarted and it blew that **** out all over the place.Lucky wasn't bank2.Just a warning "Easy on Seafoam",when it says 1/3 of the bottle there is a very good chance they are right .Well..that did for me,no more seafoam on the intake,gas tank only now on.
06-14-09, 09:36 AM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Nope not a dummy and not the entire bottle maybe it was about half.I tried seafoam 4 or 5 times in the past months and i never had a problem before,it's not said that the engine it will die while you put the seafoam in,mine doesnt.It will suck inside as much as you are willing to put in.A bit to much this time.Lucky nothing happened,it runs fine.
06-14-09, 10:19 AM
#6
Nope not a dummy and not the entire bottle maybe it was about half.I tried seafoam 4 or 5 times in the past months and i never had a problem before,it's not said that the engine it will die while you put the seafoam in,mine doesnt.It will suck inside as much as you are willing to put in.A bit to much this time.Lucky nothing happened,it runs fine.
Check out step #5 and read it carefully...
Seafoam makes the world go round!
Not really, but at $5 a can it's a steal.
A can is 1 pint.
You need 2 cans.
Pour 1/2 a can in the gas tank when you stop to fill up. (This ensures it mixes well)
Pour the other 1/2 in with fresh engine oil.
At the least you will notice that the engine will idle noticeably smoother.
Here's where most people get confused. Using it down the intake to clean the combustion chamber & parts of the head.
1) Drive the car around the block until it comes up to temp
2) Pour 1/3 of a can into a separate container
3) Crank the engine
4) Pull the brake booster hose off & put your finger over the end so the car doesn't lean out & stall.
5) Drop the hose in the bottom of the container & let your finger off the end. If the engine doesn't stall out completely SHUT IT OFF ASAP.
The fluid will near instantly disappear & the engine should stall from being too rich to run, or being too lean from the hose letting air in afterwards. This will not break your engine. You're not using enough fluid to hydrolock it.
6) The engine should sit for 5 min.
7) Crank the engine & let it run until the smoke dies down
Normally you will get an ungodly amount of smoke.
8) As the smoke dies down, drive the car around. Be sure to make liberal use of 1st & 2nd gear to get to the higher portions of the RPM range a few times. That would be 5000-6850rpm..
You are not breaking your engine by running it at those rpm... All of the computers on all of the engines will cut the fuel to slow the RPM down before the engine is damaged. Yes, they are built for it...
Why someone would want to do this?
To clean gunk, sludge, & misc. heavy buildup out of the oil system. Pump, passages, bearings, walls.
To clean the fuel system.
To clean carbon out of the combustion chamber.
Now some people ask why you want to go to the trouble of cleaning carbon out of the engine.
Because as it builds up on the valves, they don't seal as well - causing poor compression while the leaking gas superheats parts of the engine that are not designed for it.
Because carbon in the combustion chamber is bad. mmmm kay? Any carbon becomes superheated. Superheated carbon / metal will cause the incoming fuel & air to ignite earlier than it should be. This (Detonation, pinging, kocking - all just names for pre-ignition) is very derailment to many aspects of engine life.
This is what a 3vz-fe looks like @ 95,000 miles.
(Forget the fluids, fluids spill look at the black carbon build-up)
Here's what it looks like 6 months after the last 3 Seafoam treatments.
Seafoam = Good. It's cheap & versatile, while working at least as good as anything else; regardless of the cost.
Not really, but at $5 a can it's a steal.
A can is 1 pint.
You need 2 cans.
Pour 1/2 a can in the gas tank when you stop to fill up. (This ensures it mixes well)
Pour the other 1/2 in with fresh engine oil.
At the least you will notice that the engine will idle noticeably smoother.
Here's where most people get confused. Using it down the intake to clean the combustion chamber & parts of the head.
1) Drive the car around the block until it comes up to temp
2) Pour 1/3 of a can into a separate container
3) Crank the engine
4) Pull the brake booster hose off & put your finger over the end so the car doesn't lean out & stall.
5) Drop the hose in the bottom of the container & let your finger off the end. If the engine doesn't stall out completely SHUT IT OFF ASAP.
The fluid will near instantly disappear & the engine should stall from being too rich to run, or being too lean from the hose letting air in afterwards. This will not break your engine. You're not using enough fluid to hydrolock it.
6) The engine should sit for 5 min.
7) Crank the engine & let it run until the smoke dies down
Normally you will get an ungodly amount of smoke.
8) As the smoke dies down, drive the car around. Be sure to make liberal use of 1st & 2nd gear to get to the higher portions of the RPM range a few times. That would be 5000-6850rpm..
You are not breaking your engine by running it at those rpm... All of the computers on all of the engines will cut the fuel to slow the RPM down before the engine is damaged. Yes, they are built for it...
Why someone would want to do this?
To clean gunk, sludge, & misc. heavy buildup out of the oil system. Pump, passages, bearings, walls.
To clean the fuel system.
To clean carbon out of the combustion chamber.
Now some people ask why you want to go to the trouble of cleaning carbon out of the engine.
Because as it builds up on the valves, they don't seal as well - causing poor compression while the leaking gas superheats parts of the engine that are not designed for it.
Because carbon in the combustion chamber is bad. mmmm kay? Any carbon becomes superheated. Superheated carbon / metal will cause the incoming fuel & air to ignite earlier than it should be. This (Detonation, pinging, kocking - all just names for pre-ignition) is very derailment to many aspects of engine life.
This is what a 3vz-fe looks like @ 95,000 miles.
(Forget the fluids, fluids spill look at the black carbon build-up)
Here's what it looks like 6 months after the last 3 Seafoam treatments.
Seafoam = Good. It's cheap & versatile, while working at least as good as anything else; regardless of the cost.
06-14-09, 11:52 AM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
"Drop the hose in the bottom of the container & let your finger off the end. If the engine doesn't stall out completely SHUT IT OFF ASAP."
That's exaltly what i did,i guess it all depends how big that Container is.
That's exaltly what i did,i guess it all depends how big that Container is.
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06-14-09, 03:21 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
this thread makes very little sense
anyway, those pictures of the 3vzfe bring back memories for me. if you look, the before shot is really a clean engine with coolant on top of the pistons, number 6 is mostly dry and you can see how clean it is. then after the treatment, sure, its cleaner but not much more. its hardly anything. my engine was a mix of the before and after shot. i did some seafoam a few weeks ago so hopefully my combustion chamber, piston, and cyclinders are really clean now too.
do not put seafoam in the oil at the same as the intake. do not. do not. you increase risk uneccesarily of engine damage.
that's also strange that someone took their engine aprat 6 mos later, i mean, i hope fora good reason... its not that fun.... hopefully not for just an after picture... lol
anyway, those pictures of the 3vzfe bring back memories for me. if you look, the before shot is really a clean engine with coolant on top of the pistons, number 6 is mostly dry and you can see how clean it is. then after the treatment, sure, its cleaner but not much more. its hardly anything. my engine was a mix of the before and after shot. i did some seafoam a few weeks ago so hopefully my combustion chamber, piston, and cyclinders are really clean now too.
do not put seafoam in the oil at the same as the intake. do not. do not. you increase risk uneccesarily of engine damage.
that's also strange that someone took their engine aprat 6 mos later, i mean, i hope fora good reason... its not that fun.... hopefully not for just an after picture... lol
06-14-09, 05:01 PM
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
that's also strange that someone took their engine aprat 6 mos(months?) later
You are right,i thought the same thing.It looks more like publicity.
"Seafoam makes the world go round" ...yeah no kidding it does.Anyone here ever proved it does anything or we just paying $14 for the old carbon cleaner labeled differently.I did it 5 times already and the only time i felt a difference was today after hydrolocking the damn engine.
You are right,i thought the same thing.It looks more like publicity.
"Seafoam makes the world go round" ...yeah no kidding it does.Anyone here ever proved it does anything or we just paying $14 for the old carbon cleaner labeled differently.I did it 5 times already and the only time i felt a difference was today after hydrolocking the damn engine.
Last edited by buci; 06-14-09 at 05:07 PM.
06-14-09, 05:59 PM
#10
Lexus Champion
like ive said probably 15 times by now , that is not the correct seafoam procedure to use if you want to get hte most out of it.
let it sit 5 minutes they said ..... hahahaha hilarious
you ever heard of cold shock? among other things, this is one thing wrong with that procedure-- they should instead say to leave it cool completely over night
let it sit 5 minutes they said ..... hahahaha hilarious
you ever heard of cold shock? among other things, this is one thing wrong with that procedure-- they should instead say to leave it cool completely over night
06-14-09, 07:58 PM
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
.My question here is:do you think that using the "right" procedure whatever that is (5 min or 5 days)seafoam gets better results than good old carb cleaner,and by the way that glorious white smoke you get with seafoam is Absolutely the same you will get with carb cleaner or any solvent for that matter.
06-15-09, 12:34 AM
#12
Lexus Champion
yes and no??? your question ends with a period....
using the best procedure gives the best results. i posted several times the best procedure. search it [HINT use my name in it]
seafoam is pretty much the same thing as other carb cleaner products.
using the best procedure gives the best results. i posted several times the best procedure. search it [HINT use my name in it]
seafoam is pretty much the same thing as other carb cleaner products.
06-15-09, 08:27 PM
#14
Cold Shock?
You want to let it sit for only a few minutes to loosen the carbon deposits while warm.
Then restart while it is warm and rev it to blow the crap out.
Also restarting after a just a few minutes keeps the catalytic converter hot so the stuff will burn up.
If you wait over night it could block the converter till it runs long enough to get hot.
I've saved a couple old 2 stroke boat motors that had stuck rings with SeaFoam and believe it does some good in auto engines also.
I used Phoenix's advice on SeaFoam on both my ES300s and other Lexus/Toyota repairs. He has forgotten more than most here know or claim to know.
You want to let it sit for only a few minutes to loosen the carbon deposits while warm.
Then restart while it is warm and rev it to blow the crap out.
Also restarting after a just a few minutes keeps the catalytic converter hot so the stuff will burn up.
If you wait over night it could block the converter till it runs long enough to get hot.
I've saved a couple old 2 stroke boat motors that had stuck rings with SeaFoam and believe it does some good in auto engines also.
I used Phoenix's advice on SeaFoam on both my ES300s and other Lexus/Toyota repairs. He has forgotten more than most here know or claim to know.
06-15-09, 10:44 PM
#15
i thought i had done the same thing to my 96 es300 when i seafoamed it for the first time. now true hydrolock, you know the difference. thats how i killed my ES and landed my IS. it was my fault though for having a true cold air intake and meeting a flash flood at full throttle. 
bent all internals. Totalled the car.
if you are going to seafoam though, ive done it a few ways. the best way ive found is after a lengthy warming up. i have someone sit in the car and keep it at 3k rpm. i remove the brake booster line running into the intake and i hold my finger over the top of the seafoam and let the suction of the booster line almost atomize the fluid. once i start seeing smoke from the exhaust i increase the flow a bit until im at half a can. then i replace the brake booster line. pour the other half in the oil. i run the car at high rpm until smoke is barely noticeable then drive on the hwy for 100 miles. then its time for a good oil change. i tell my mechanic and he lets the engine really drain out more so than normal. and i repeat this same process again, instead of the remaining 1/2 can going into oil i put it into the gas tank. after the next oil change. i use 44ks oil treatment and im all set.
bent all internals. Totalled the car. if you are going to seafoam though, ive done it a few ways. the best way ive found is after a lengthy warming up. i have someone sit in the car and keep it at 3k rpm. i remove the brake booster line running into the intake and i hold my finger over the top of the seafoam and let the suction of the booster line almost atomize the fluid. once i start seeing smoke from the exhaust i increase the flow a bit until im at half a can. then i replace the brake booster line. pour the other half in the oil. i run the car at high rpm until smoke is barely noticeable then drive on the hwy for 100 miles. then its time for a good oil change. i tell my mechanic and he lets the engine really drain out more so than normal. and i repeat this same process again, instead of the remaining 1/2 can going into oil i put it into the gas tank. after the next oil change. i use 44ks oil treatment and im all set.
Last edited by 3rdelement; 06-15-09 at 10:47 PM.