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Drilled/Slotted Rotors

Old 05-25-09, 10:41 AM
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mrbobbyd
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Default Drilled/Slotted Rotors

Hi Everyone; I just started to go on Ebay motors to see about getting new F/R slotted/Drilled rotors and pads but there are so many brands. My question is what brands to stay away from and which ones are good. I know from the prices that most come from China,Anyone have good luck with these Sellers. Thanks again, Bobbyd
Old 05-25-09, 10:53 AM
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llcoolpass
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yeah, stay away from drilled slotted rotors. in particular, anything cheap.
do you want to know why, or do you already know
Old 05-25-09, 12:51 PM
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I get a lot of stuff from ebay, but brake components from china? I'm not so sure I would want bad rotors on my car. If you must, go with sellers that have lots of good feedback and features those that have purchased the same thing you are looking at.

It's only got to warp once to be worthless and dangerous.
Old 05-25-09, 01:28 PM
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mcelligott
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Cross Drilled rotors are just bling for our vehicles. If you want to get better braking, get better pads!
Old 05-25-09, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbobbyd
Hi Everyone; I just started to go on Ebay motors to see about getting new F/R slotted/Drilled rotors and pads but there are so many brands. My question is what brands to stay away from and which ones are good. I know from the prices that most come from China,Anyone have good luck with these Sellers. Thanks again, Bobbyd
Everything seems comes from China *sarcastically, but...yeah* so good luck there.

You'll also get a lot of folks on every car site who'll pass on 2nd hand knowledge about blanks, vs slotted, vs drilled. It's like all the sacred 2-sided debates (premium/regular, democrats/republicans, etc. ). And some sites will publish a primer about brake tech, but you can't help but suspect some salesmanship there.

If you're hayel-bent on slotted & cross-drilled, one of the ClubLexus vendors, LuxuryMods.com, has some rotors for the 3rd gen ES like yours. I've had them for a few months now, but haven't put my car through much daily driving, and no track usage yet, since buying them. They look dapper though. Brembo blanks on my SC have been great thus far too, other than they tend to squawk until things get warmed up.

Good luck, and let us know what you pick out.
Old 05-25-09, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mcelligott
Cross Drilled rotors are just bling for our vehicles. If you want to get better braking, get better pads!
Exactly, unless your car had like 300 horses or more then you'd upgrade the braking power. As in the rotor size, caliper... a big brake kit to be exact.

Last edited by 3000; 05-25-09 at 08:04 PM.
Old 05-25-09, 07:12 PM
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All I did to my '98 ES was replace rotors w/ Brembo blanks, upgraded to stainless steel lines, and used a better pad. I have run this setup for 30k+ miles and still don't have any fade or pulsing when driving on daily roads or on the highway.
Old 05-25-09, 08:02 PM
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llcoolpass
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exactly, ivory98es3, whereas cross drilled rotors fatigue and are replaced every race sometimes even during a race if they fail then. so this is not a debate. this is a fact. there is not a point to someone who is of a certain level if he/she even posts this thread to use a cross drilled rotor. it' s unsafe. furthermore, cheap ones you buy on ebay are likely less safe. basically, I'm elaborating on my earlier post.

these are facts. slooow, you can't possibly disagree with facts? no one can. no one but crazy ones.

cross drilled offers less surface area onto which the brake pads to work.
good brake pads, rotors within spec, fluid up to spec, and driving everywhere except on some kind of nurburgring race track, will be better with the usual rotors and pads.... now , you might find a pad that gasifies less and fades less in certain hard brake applications, but you will find yourself less likely to be in those situations in the first place if you are driving a decade old, entry level lexus [ie an even more luxuryized camry]. like ivory98es3 I have no brake problems but I don't quite have the nicer parts he has, I have something more stock but great condition of my parts. does my es 300 have a problem stopping from 120 to 40? look at the video in my signature. I have no pulse, noise, nothing at all, just smooth greatness.
Old 05-25-09, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by llcoolpass
these are facts. slooow, you can't possibly disagree with facts? no one can. no one but crazy ones.
*LOL*
I'm not even sure why my name came up in your response there, LLCP.
[You often tend to take issue when there's not an issue, and sometimes with a bull-in-a-china-closet lack of social grace and passive-aggressiveness (ex. "no one but crazy ones," telling ParkerGen he sounds like a "fool" for an opinion, on & on). But you've been here a while now and some of us are getting used to you and enjoy those that are helpful responses. He's erratic, but he's our ES bro! ][/social commentary - back to brakes]

I don't profess to have education or experience in brake design, mechanical engineering, etc., so I didn't really state anything too controversial above - just providing some perspective, some warning, and a vendor contact.

Experience in this forum shows that we get a lot of folks, typically newer members, who're unswerving on modifications they want, irrespective of the data predicting the outcome (e.g. the probable lack of power/torque gain, and possible loss, when applying an intake). I don't know the OP, but if his hat is set on c/d&slot. rotors, he might as well get a nice set from a reputable CL vendor.

I do have some direct experience with different types of brake setups, and thus far they've all stopped me when I needed them to, on the track or in daily driving. I love experimenting with different brake setups and systems for direct comparison and trying to make things better.

I also know what I've read online and most of the opinions I truly trust follow what McElligott says almost word for word. That's probably why it's taken so long for me to try out a cross-drilled & slotted rotor set like I just put on the ES. I just didn't feel there was much to gain there, but I like to yank myself outta the comfort zone once in a while and prove or disprove what I've read or been told. There's no substitute for experiencing things yourself.
[Speaking of experience - I'm LOVING the feel of the Goodridge stainless steel brake lines thus far (on both cars)!]

Folks tend to have very strong opinions on this topic (as I warned the OP in my reply above) and often state what they feel, or know, are facts that support their view. Check out the same debate on TN-Camry Gen3/4 forum. Kewliez. That's what these forums are all about. I'm certain the OP might like to see some pics of what different folks have, along with their reviews and ratings of what they've used. Keep 'em coming!


Last edited by Slooooooow; 05-25-09 at 09:26 PM.
Old 05-26-09, 08:46 AM
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llcoolpass
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slooooooow, you are correct about me, and I wish I wasn't like that.
Old 05-26-09, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by llcoolpass
slooooooow, you are correct about me, and I wish I wasn't like that.
It's all good buddy! You're an ES bro, you help out when you can, and we all faux pas once in a while. Who's perfect? Just keep on tryin'! [/end session - back to brakes]

Trying to find some substantial facts and trustworthy materials for the OP revived my brake-research kick, but I don't want to distract this thread much farther than answering the OPs questions. A multi-generational ES brake reference thread might be self-generating and of value to folks like the OP.
Old 05-26-09, 10:51 AM
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llcoolpass
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ok you should begin your research into cross drilled rotors and the opinion of race track drivers and mechanics.

also note what the purpose of them is-- brake pad gassification. note when that occurs and when it becomes a problem.

note that if you spend less on something, you tend to get what you pay for.

ebay sellers aren't the best place to start with something that has your life and possibly others' on the line .... if you go to the cheapest person on ebay and not the most credible, you would make an already precarious situation worse

it's going to cost a lot to get good rotors. probably 200+ per rotor, and even then a cross drilled might be ok, but the chance is much higher for failure... but if you don't drive too hard on them then no worry... but then if you do not drive hard on them, you would be better served by standard now wouldn't you
Old 05-26-09, 05:19 PM
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mrbobbyd
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WOW!! Thanks everyone for your answers on my question. I will replace pads and OEM, rotors, The pads I have are great never squeal and no dust I think they are factory ceramics also I think the Rotors still can be turned.Thanks again Bobbyd

Last edited by mrbobbyd; 05-26-09 at 05:23 PM. Reason: left out words
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