canucklehe

I have knock sensor code. mechanic told me first replace knock sensor, then check wiring, then PCM as last resource. In the interim, the function of knock sensor is to advance/retard timing for ping issues. My car runs fine and I am ignoring it. he said that was a perfectly acceptable option.

canucklehe

there are 2 knock sensors? where are they? anyone have part numbers?

canucklehe

I have codes 55 and 52 and I also have replaced bolth knock sensors and harness wires are good and actual harness wires are good also and i changed PCM the light comes on after driving a few miles and resets when I shut the car off but still comes on[/QUOTE]

ditto. replaced all the stuff you did, still have CEL and still doesn't run right. kind of flat at 2000 rpm, lacks pep and response when I accelerate. Other identical car does not do this. CEL car also gets poor mileage.

I'm desperate and have sunk TONS of money into this.

donmcc

I found my obd port under the dash on the left side of the steering wheel. I assume this to be the OBD2 PORT. It has 6 terminals at the bottom labeled T1 thru T6. I will take it to Autozone and match it to a code reader. If they are relatively inexpensive, I will buy one for the tool box or have them read them to me and start my transmission troubleshooting if the cost is high.

canucklehe

on the OBDII readers....I was told they vary in capability. For example, a cheap reader might tell you an O2 sensor is setting off CEL, a better reader will tell you it is left bank rear (and there might be 4 O2 sensors, so nice to know which you need to replace). In order to get the higher capability reader, you need to spend more $$.

artmel

Hi, I need help on this issue.
I just buy 93 Lexus ES300 104000mils working fine until I found when driving on freeway over 60- 70mil and tiring accelerate quick it start hesitating, speed going up and down, RPM going up to 4-5K, and transmission shifting high low gear, have to relive the pedal to accelerate slowly, and works fine, but when need power up to the hill it does again, did test on 40-50 mile hour with overdrive off it happens again, and fills like transmission not shifting properly, but when I'm driving normal, gradually accelerate working ok.
After all my researches replace, full filter, engine control computer, distributor cup, rotor, spark plugs & wires, didn't help, no luck, same issue still remaining.
After all this, run diagnostic test gat code 24 which is Intake temperature sensor circuit fault, but I don't have any check engine light.
Is this sensor location on EGR valve, if yes ok if not please help me find the lactation to replace.
Is this faulty sensor will cause problems I describe above?
Thanks

canucklehe

i know where coolant temp sensor is located, but not intake temp sensor. I don't know what is causing your issues, but if the computer uses intake temp to regulate fuel, air flow.... then maybe. Would maybe MAF also be possible issue??? (I dunno).

did u clean throttle body?

the egr can cause performance issues too, but not sure if your symptoms are from that,


maybe you could ask a dealer... tell them you have code 24 and ask the parts guy to show you parts diagram so you can see the part you are supposed to be replacing.

artmel

Hi thanks for help, I did smog test today and passed with no issues. will continue to troubleshoot until find out.
will posted.

usman2338

Please make sure that if your car has AFR sensor (air fuel ratio) then you replace it with an AFR and if you have oxygen sensor then r,eplace it with oxygen sensor since signal detection circuitry inside the ECM looks for a specific voltage range for feedback signal. If the feedback signals are different then ECM will throw cel light and could also lead to damaging the ECM. Thanks

artmel

Hi thanks for trying to help.
I just find out that was old code, I reset the fault (disconnect the power for couple seconds), all clear, no faults, but still I'm having same driving issues, also yes I clean the throttle body with choke cleaner, is that will cause any problem?
Thanks

Fasttech

I hate reviving old posts,, but,, im in need,, so here goes, 1994 GS300, codes 71 and 78, egr circut and fuel pump circut,, any pointers,, ? thanks from what ive found,, it looks like ECM time

canucklehe

I don't think you should feel bad for reviving old post. How many times is a new topic posted and the poster gets roasted for not doing a search!!

I don't know your codes. This site is generally excellent. Try a new post, a google search, and also; ToyotaNation website has helped me more than anything. Good luck...And make sure you post your final fix.

In my case, I replaced knock sensors & a section of the wiring harness, then tons more trouble shooting. Turned out that somewhere I had a bad piece of the shielded wiring. i couldn't find stranded shielded wiring so I fixed it using home cablevision cable. And it was perfect afterwards. From there i discovered blown head gasket, which fixed up perfectly with Thermagasket.

Fasttech

Ok, Thanks for the quick reply., and yes, Im a Mod on a Chrysler fourm, and ive seen the "Roasting" as you call it

lillyon277

What if my check engine light keeps blinking does that mean that my ecu is bad

pappysc400

My 1993 SC400 is celing code 17 or 71 as it's flasshes all come in continuous stream? can one of my new friends tell me the meaning of these two? 17 or 71. I am jumpered from TE1 to E1with the sophisticated pliable current conducting "paperclip" again i get 17 or a 71 totally different codes. A complete list would be to much to hope for?