should i remove this cheap chip? HELP
08-13-07, 10:30 AM
#1
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should i remove this cheap chip? HELP
hi all. I've had my 94 es300 for a few years now and this chip has been there since I bought it. I'm pretty sure its one of the cheap ones from ebay that is supposed to trick your car into more hp. I havnt really had any problems with gas mileage and to me my car does pretty good (not sure of the numbers). Could I be getting better gas mileage if I removed this chip (yellow arrow in picture)? I'm afraid it might mess something up if i disconnect it. My car seems like its dragging a little and could have more power. It also cold starts very poorly and if I dont let it warm up to OT it will barely go anywhere. I've never changed the fuel filter and I'm thinking about doing that too. I'll also change the plugs and maybe the wires. Could someone also tell me what that rusty thing is cuz it looks like it could be replaced soon... (green arrow)? Thanks a lot.
08-14-07, 12:56 AM
#5
pretty much total bull****.
it's a resistor in a box that makes the ECU think the IAT sensor is reading the air colder than it is, making it inject X amount more of fuel because the air would be denser.
however:
1) the engine is ungodly rich to begin with, it needs less fuel, or lots of normally aspirated mods... it can't burn what it naturally gets.
2) toyota's IAT sensor programming does almost nothing to the fuel trim. literally, makes no differance. you couldn't measure it with most tailpipe sniffers if you tried after afew seconds.
gotta buy a real piggyback if you want to play
smt6 is great. only thing that works consistantly on 1mz-fe's without being stupid expencive.
change the plugs, NGK or denso only. your wires are fine, you don't change wires on a COP/WS toyota... ever... unless the person working on the car breaks them.
lol. the fuel filter is most likely fine, but whatever you want on that one.
take the BS resistor off & pull the EFI fuses for abit & put them back on. it wont reset stored codes, but it will reset the fuel trims to normal. and check your coolant temp sensor leads for the same dumb stuff. that actually makes a much larger differance in fuel tuning.
it's a resistor in a box that makes the ECU think the IAT sensor is reading the air colder than it is, making it inject X amount more of fuel because the air would be denser.
however:
1) the engine is ungodly rich to begin with, it needs less fuel, or lots of normally aspirated mods... it can't burn what it naturally gets.
2) toyota's IAT sensor programming does almost nothing to the fuel trim. literally, makes no differance. you couldn't measure it with most tailpipe sniffers if you tried after afew seconds.
gotta buy a real piggyback if you want to play
smt6 is great. only thing that works consistantly on 1mz-fe's without being stupid expencive.
change the plugs, NGK or denso only. your wires are fine, you don't change wires on a COP/WS toyota... ever... unless the person working on the car breaks them.
lol. the fuel filter is most likely fine, but whatever you want on that one.take the BS resistor off & pull the EFI fuses for abit & put them back on. it wont reset stored codes, but it will reset the fuel trims to normal. and check your coolant temp sensor leads for the same dumb stuff. that actually makes a much larger differance in fuel tuning.
08-14-07, 06:48 PM
#7
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you guys are the ****! Pheonix should win a nobel prize for his knowledge of these cars... youd get my vote 
. I'll definately disconnect it and re splice the wires right away. thanks
. I'll definately disconnect it and re splice the wires right away. thanks
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08-14-07, 08:14 PM
#8
pretty much total bull****.
it's a resistor in a box that makes the ECU think the IAT sensor is reading the air colder than it is, making it inject X amount more of fuel because the air would be denser.
however:
1) the engine is ungodly rich to begin with, it needs less fuel, or lots of normally aspirated mods... it can't burn what it naturally gets.
2) toyota's IAT sensor programming does almost nothing to the fuel trim. literally, makes no differance. you couldn't measure it with most tailpipe sniffers if you tried after afew seconds.
gotta buy a real piggyback if you want to play
smt6 is great. only thing that works consistantly on 1mz-fe's without being stupid expencive.
change the plugs, NGK or denso only. your wires are fine, you don't change wires on a COP/WS toyota... ever... unless the person working on the car breaks them. lol. the fuel filter is most likely fine, but whatever you want on that one.
take the BS resistor off & pull the EFI fuses for abit & put them back on. it wont reset stored codes, but it will reset the fuel trims to normal. and check your coolant temp sensor leads for the same dumb stuff. that actually makes a much larger differance in fuel tuning.
it's a resistor in a box that makes the ECU think the IAT sensor is reading the air colder than it is, making it inject X amount more of fuel because the air would be denser.
however:
1) the engine is ungodly rich to begin with, it needs less fuel, or lots of normally aspirated mods... it can't burn what it naturally gets.
2) toyota's IAT sensor programming does almost nothing to the fuel trim. literally, makes no differance. you couldn't measure it with most tailpipe sniffers if you tried after afew seconds.
gotta buy a real piggyback if you want to play
smt6 is great. only thing that works consistantly on 1mz-fe's without being stupid expencive.
change the plugs, NGK or denso only. your wires are fine, you don't change wires on a COP/WS toyota... ever... unless the person working on the car breaks them.
lol. the fuel filter is most likely fine, but whatever you want on that one.take the BS resistor off & pull the EFI fuses for abit & put them back on. it wont reset stored codes, but it will reset the fuel trims to normal. and check your coolant temp sensor leads for the same dumb stuff. that actually makes a much larger differance in fuel tuning.
08-14-07, 08:16 PM
#9
piggybacks are universal and they have different functions.
typically a good one will allow you to modify atlease ignition timing and base fueling via the main airflow sensor.
beyond that some allow modifying the o2 sensor signal, some actually piggyback the injectors themselves, some scale, or lock speed sensors.
etc etc you can do lots of things on some of them
typically a good one will allow you to modify atlease ignition timing and base fueling via the main airflow sensor.
beyond that some allow modifying the o2 sensor signal, some actually piggyback the injectors themselves, some scale, or lock speed sensors.
etc etc you can do lots of things on some of them
08-14-07, 09:30 PM
#10
piggybacks are universal and they have different functions.
typically a good one will allow you to modify atlease ignition timing and base fueling via the main airflow sensor.
beyond that some allow modifying the o2 sensor signal, some actually piggyback the injectors themselves, some scale, or lock speed sensors.
etc etc you can do lots of things on some of them
typically a good one will allow you to modify atlease ignition timing and base fueling via the main airflow sensor.
beyond that some allow modifying the o2 sensor signal, some actually piggyback the injectors themselves, some scale, or lock speed sensors.
etc etc you can do lots of things on some of them
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