EGGactly!?!
03-20-06, 05:04 PM
#1
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EGGactly!?!
Ehh, ES' got egged. Wait, let me rephrase that. ES' got omletted the other nite while parked out on the sidewalk, next to the driveway. I assume just eggs, but possibly could be other stuff in addition (soda? milkshake? juice? booze/brew? cappaccino/latte? ice-cream? puke?).
Basic demographics: upper middle-class, suburban, professional, caucasian neighborhood w/ new housing (ie. soccer-moms, weekend-warriors, kids w/ bigwheels & roller-blades). ALOT of jr. high & sr. high kids around here-n-there. Oh well, it's ok. If it was the NSX, I'd be on America's Most Wanted right now, lol.
Any quick-remedies, as the ES' will have to remain there for a bit longer (rev. gear is null... A.T. is going out). Most of the affected area is the windshield & portion of hood near it, driver's window, driver's side A-pillar & the bordering roof portion, driver's door, left 1/4panel... (overall it's not too bad, but not eggactly bird-splatter either; want to make sure it doesn't eat-away any of the finish). I can't get the lawn-hose that far (relatively big driveway/front-yard), and Texas heat has begun... I don't want poached, over-easy on my chrome & steel...
I've been lucky that it had been raining for a few days and over-cast. Tomorrow is upper 80's, mostly-sunny.
Thanks!
Basic demographics: upper middle-class, suburban, professional, caucasian neighborhood w/ new housing (ie. soccer-moms, weekend-warriors, kids w/ bigwheels & roller-blades). ALOT of jr. high & sr. high kids around here-n-there. Oh well, it's ok. If it was the NSX, I'd be on America's Most Wanted right now, lol.
Any quick-remedies, as the ES' will have to remain there for a bit longer (rev. gear is null... A.T. is going out). Most of the affected area is the windshield & portion of hood near it, driver's window, driver's side A-pillar & the bordering roof portion, driver's door, left 1/4panel... (overall it's not too bad, but not eggactly bird-splatter either; want to make sure it doesn't eat-away any of the finish). I can't get the lawn-hose that far (relatively big driveway/front-yard), and Texas heat has begun... I don't want poached, over-easy on my chrome & steel...
I've been lucky that it had been raining for a few days and over-cast. Tomorrow is upper 80's, mostly-sunny.Thanks!
03-21-06, 12:25 PM
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glazing does what exactly?
i'm on that Pheonix 
Thanks! I've noticed some 'shadowing'/darkness in areas exposed to the splatter after a few applications of paint-cleaner wax (Meguiar's 3-step). Haven't yet polished though.
About glazing, is that post-polishing & pre-waxing?
Wool/synthetic buffing bonnets were a no-no for certain finishes, but for ES' would it be ok or stick w/ terry/micro-fiber bonnets?
Thanks! I've noticed some 'shadowing'/darkness in areas exposed to the splatter after a few applications of paint-cleaner wax (Meguiar's 3-step). Haven't yet polished though.About glazing, is that post-polishing & pre-waxing?
Wool/synthetic buffing bonnets were a no-no for certain finishes, but for ES' would it be ok or stick w/ terry/micro-fiber bonnets?
03-21-06, 01:06 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by Osiris_x11
Wool/synthetic buffing bonnets were a no-no for certain finishes, but for ES' would it be ok or stick w/ terry/micro-fiber bonnets?
03-21-06, 08:12 PM
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Clay tips
Here are some tips for using clay. I copied from a detail web site. Hope this helps
Every car finish shares a common enemy: pollution. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation.
Surface contamination, as shown by this diagram, are difficult to clean or polish off, yet paint cleaning clay removes it with ease.
When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.
USES FOR CLAY
Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination.
One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay.
These are the two most common retail kits available. On the left is the Meguiar's Quik Clay kit, which includes a bottle of their popular Quik Detailer detailing spray and a fine grade clay. On the right is the Clay Magic Perfect Finish kit, which includes a soap-based lubricant and fine grade clay.
Clay is also very effective on paint over-spray. If the over-spray is particularly heavy, you may want to seek the assistance of a professional. Tree sap and tar specks can also be safely removed with a clay bar.
Recently, I have also started using clay on my windows (exterior) to remove heavy road film, bug deposits and water spots. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners.
EVALUATING YOUR PAINT
How do you know if you need to use a clay bar? After thoroughly hand washing your car, feel the surface of your car's paint. Do you feel bumps and rough spots? These bumps are contaminants attacking the finish of your car. Removing these surface contaminants (road tar, acid rain spots, bug residue, paint over-spray, brake pad dust, hard water spots, etc.) will improve both the look and health of your car's paint. By the way, you can magnify your sense of touch by inserting your fingertips into a sandwich bag or a piece of cellophane.
No matter how well you hand-wash your car, many of the contaminants that have worked their way into your car's paint finish will remain. Have you ever looked at your foam wax applicator pad after applying a coat of wax? What do you think that black stuff is? It's dirt, and you're waxing over it, sealing it in.
CLAY SAFETY
Detailing clay isn't new. Paint and body shops have been using it for years to remove paint overspray. Clay is fairly new to the car detailing market, and is very new to the consumer on retail shelves. In the early days there was always a concern that paint damage might occur if improperly used.
New technology detailing clay bars are made of fine polishing particles in a soft, malleable "clay" medium that allows the bar to be formed and kneaded. Some clay makers add color to make the bar more attractive or to identify bars of differing strength (coarseness).
Many clay products claim to contain no abrasives. This is stretching the truth. The reason clay manufacturers claim their products don't contain an abrasive is because the general public thinks the word "abrasive" refers only to aggressive, paint removing materials. The fact is that the abrasives in most automotive clay products are so fine that you will not see any reduction in paint gloss. After several uses, paint luster may even improve.
Still, I have heard some horror stories about people ruining a Ferrari paint job using a clay bar. I can see how this might be true if an inappropriate product was used or if the clay bar is used incorrectly.
USING CLAY
Using clay is very easy, but you must follow the instructions. Use clay incorrectly and you will create a mess or scuff the surface of your paint.
Before using detailing clay, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant.
Flatten your detailing clay into a flat waffer that will fit comfortably in your hand.
To use the clay bar, you spray a lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the clay back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay is fairly sticky and cannot be used dry. Try using clay dry and you'll make a big mess and scuff your paint.
After a few passes with the clay, rub your hand over the area you cleaned to check for areas missed. You should feel a distinct difference between the areas you have clayed and the areas you have not clayed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft microfiber towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas.
When your clay is flattened into a nice wafer, you spray both the clay and the paint with clay lubricant and rub the surface lightly with the clay. Three or four passes over an area is normally enough to do the job.
An alternative to spray detailing lubricant is good old soapy water. Be sure to rinse your wash mitt thoroughly and use a fresh bucket of soapy water, not what's left over from washing.
Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history. Toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit. Read the manufacturers' directions for the number of uses of their clay bar. Do not overuse a clay bar.
When you're finished claying your car, you should wash it to remove the lubricant film, then go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint. Finally, seal your freshly cleaned paint with your choice of wax or sealant.
After claying one or two body panels, your clay will begin to look dirty. Don't be alarmed, that's just the clay doing its job. Flip the clay over and use the other side. When both sides are dirty, remold the clay into a ball again and flatten to reveal a clean surface.
OTHER USES FOR CLAY
Clay isn't just for paint. You can use detailing clay on any smooth, hard surface, including glass and chrome. Do not use clay on clear plastic, such as headlight lenses.
When I can no longer remold clay to get a clean surface, I retire it for use on my windows. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior glass windows.
I also use my old clay to clean wheels. Clay will safely remove stubborn, embedded brake dust, tar and road film from all factory wheels. Clay is not recommended on wheels that do not have a factory clearcoat or powder coat finish.
With just a little effort, stubborn brake dust that even the strongest cleaners won't remove comes off with detailing clay
Every car finish shares a common enemy: pollution. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation.
Surface contamination, as shown by this diagram, are difficult to clean or polish off, yet paint cleaning clay removes it with ease.
When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.
USES FOR CLAY
Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination.
One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay.
These are the two most common retail kits available. On the left is the Meguiar's Quik Clay kit, which includes a bottle of their popular Quik Detailer detailing spray and a fine grade clay. On the right is the Clay Magic Perfect Finish kit, which includes a soap-based lubricant and fine grade clay.
Clay is also very effective on paint over-spray. If the over-spray is particularly heavy, you may want to seek the assistance of a professional. Tree sap and tar specks can also be safely removed with a clay bar.
Recently, I have also started using clay on my windows (exterior) to remove heavy road film, bug deposits and water spots. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners.
EVALUATING YOUR PAINT
How do you know if you need to use a clay bar? After thoroughly hand washing your car, feel the surface of your car's paint. Do you feel bumps and rough spots? These bumps are contaminants attacking the finish of your car. Removing these surface contaminants (road tar, acid rain spots, bug residue, paint over-spray, brake pad dust, hard water spots, etc.) will improve both the look and health of your car's paint. By the way, you can magnify your sense of touch by inserting your fingertips into a sandwich bag or a piece of cellophane.
No matter how well you hand-wash your car, many of the contaminants that have worked their way into your car's paint finish will remain. Have you ever looked at your foam wax applicator pad after applying a coat of wax? What do you think that black stuff is? It's dirt, and you're waxing over it, sealing it in.
CLAY SAFETY
Detailing clay isn't new. Paint and body shops have been using it for years to remove paint overspray. Clay is fairly new to the car detailing market, and is very new to the consumer on retail shelves. In the early days there was always a concern that paint damage might occur if improperly used.
New technology detailing clay bars are made of fine polishing particles in a soft, malleable "clay" medium that allows the bar to be formed and kneaded. Some clay makers add color to make the bar more attractive or to identify bars of differing strength (coarseness).
Many clay products claim to contain no abrasives. This is stretching the truth. The reason clay manufacturers claim their products don't contain an abrasive is because the general public thinks the word "abrasive" refers only to aggressive, paint removing materials. The fact is that the abrasives in most automotive clay products are so fine that you will not see any reduction in paint gloss. After several uses, paint luster may even improve.
Still, I have heard some horror stories about people ruining a Ferrari paint job using a clay bar. I can see how this might be true if an inappropriate product was used or if the clay bar is used incorrectly.
USING CLAY
Using clay is very easy, but you must follow the instructions. Use clay incorrectly and you will create a mess or scuff the surface of your paint.
Before using detailing clay, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant.
Flatten your detailing clay into a flat waffer that will fit comfortably in your hand.
To use the clay bar, you spray a lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the clay back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay is fairly sticky and cannot be used dry. Try using clay dry and you'll make a big mess and scuff your paint.
After a few passes with the clay, rub your hand over the area you cleaned to check for areas missed. You should feel a distinct difference between the areas you have clayed and the areas you have not clayed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft microfiber towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas.
When your clay is flattened into a nice wafer, you spray both the clay and the paint with clay lubricant and rub the surface lightly with the clay. Three or four passes over an area is normally enough to do the job.
An alternative to spray detailing lubricant is good old soapy water. Be sure to rinse your wash mitt thoroughly and use a fresh bucket of soapy water, not what's left over from washing.
Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history. Toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit. Read the manufacturers' directions for the number of uses of their clay bar. Do not overuse a clay bar.
When you're finished claying your car, you should wash it to remove the lubricant film, then go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint. Finally, seal your freshly cleaned paint with your choice of wax or sealant.
After claying one or two body panels, your clay will begin to look dirty. Don't be alarmed, that's just the clay doing its job. Flip the clay over and use the other side. When both sides are dirty, remold the clay into a ball again and flatten to reveal a clean surface.
OTHER USES FOR CLAY
Clay isn't just for paint. You can use detailing clay on any smooth, hard surface, including glass and chrome. Do not use clay on clear plastic, such as headlight lenses.
When I can no longer remold clay to get a clean surface, I retire it for use on my windows. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior glass windows.
I also use my old clay to clean wheels. Clay will safely remove stubborn, embedded brake dust, tar and road film from all factory wheels. Clay is not recommended on wheels that do not have a factory clearcoat or powder coat finish.
With just a little effort, stubborn brake dust that even the strongest cleaners won't remove comes off with detailing clay
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