My friend who's an expert at fixing up American and Japanese cars helped me change the front brakes on my ES last weekend. The only reason I went to my friend for assistance (instead of doing the job myself) was that he had all the tools (i.e. garage jack stand, torque wrench, various metric sockets, etc).
OK, here are all the steps I can remember from the brake job:
1) While the tire is on the ground, loosen the lug nuts (don't forget your wheel lock key if your wheels came with wheel locks). My friend and I discovered that one of my front wheels had been overtorqued to at least 150 ft-lbs by some dumb technician who decided to use an air gun instead of a torque wrench when he checked my brakes last month. This may be one of the reasons why my rotors are warped Important lesson to learn: Never use an air gun to tighten your lug nuts; always use a torque wrench and torque the nuts to the proper factory torque setting.
2) Go ahead and jack up the car and take the lug nuts and wheel off.
3) Behind the brake piston assembly there are two 17mm bolts holding the assembly to the rotor. Remove both of those bolts (you may have to resort using extra pressure if the bolts have never been taken out).
4) Set the piston assembly aside (i.e. laying it on a bucket or hanging it on some wire). Be careful not to put any strain on the brake lines as you could mess up the ABS sensor.
5) By now your brake job should look something like this:
You should see (2) 10-24 pitch threaded holes on the inner bolt circle of the rotor. You will need to find a couple bolts that will fit in those holes (e.g. 12 mm size) and force the rotor to come out. That was the tricky part that I probably couldn't have figured out if my friend didn't help me
6) After taking the old rotor out, use some WD-40 on the small hub and clean up and prepare the area for interfacing with the new rotor. Time to put your new rotor in.
7) Take out your old brake pads from the caliper, and remove the metal shims from the pads (remember which shims go to which orientation on the brake pads). Clip the shims onto the new brake pads, and place the new brake pads into the caliper the same way as with your old pads. It is not necessary here, but we put in some Brake Quiet fluid (http://www.carwashwarehouse.com/TEC99220.php
) on the used sides of the brake pads for better convenience.
8) Before putting the piston assembly back into place with the rotor, open the hood, place some rags around the brake fluid reservoir and remove some brake fluid. Do not let the brake fluid touch the paint!
9) You want to push the brake piston all the way away from the rotor using a C-clamp or some other means. The idea here is ensure a tight and secured fit of the brake pad part of the piston onto the rotor. This piston pressure fit step also affects the level of your brake fluid, so make sure it doesn't overflow.
10) Put the piston assembly back into place with the rotor. Before putting the wheel back in, it is a good idea to lay some anti-sieze grease over the lug nut bolts so it will be easier to take the wheel and rotor off the next time.
11) Put the wheel and lug nuts back in, finger-tighten all nuts in 5-star fashion, and use a torque wrench to torque the nuts in 5-star fashion.
12) Take your car out for a test drive and test the brakes at slow and abrupt stops separately. If everything checks out OK, mission accomplished
Take note of the miles on your odometer so you know the history of your brake change.
I attached a picture of my new front brakes (please mind the curbed lip on the wheel). The blue stuff on the brake assy is the Brake Quiet applicant.
Other related links on changing brakes: