Taking your Lexus to the 1/4 mile track 101
11-17-04, 01:05 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Taking your Lexus to the 1/4 mile track 101
Okay so yes, its illegal but we do it anyway. Or even for those at the track. How do u race your car. This will be for straightline performance only in this thread.
The BEST and 1SICKLEX endorsed way of trying this is on THE TRACK!!! There is nothing better than taking your car to the track where you can LEGALLY take you car to ILLEGAL speeds everywhere else.
1. Take your car to the track when its colder (like now). Cold air helps your engine feed cold air. Cold air does make tires cold. Cold tires= slower times. Give em a good spin or two before racing.
2. Take your car to the track stock. This way you have a baseline of where u started at.
3. Diff tracks and diff climates and elevations can effect your times.
4. Go with 1/4 tank of gas. Less gas= less weight. Some even take the spare out but most here drive with the spare daily so most don't use this method.
5. If its an auto, your best bet is to put it in power mode and brake torque to about 2500 rpm (depends on the Lexus) and let the car shift itself. Brake torquing is putting one foot on the gas, one on the brake.
6. Your going to be waiting for that GREEN light. It takes TONS of practice so don't expect any miracles and if you mess up, its okay. Most experts that drive the Pikes Peak race say it takes 3 YEARS to get used to the curvey course. It takes time.
7. Keep your timeslips in a safe place. Post them here. Share your story with others.
8. Yes, its still very, very, very unusual for a Lexus to be at the track and you may get your fair share of funny looks. But put out a decent time (15 second runs are respectable) and your'll get respect. People like to see different cars at the track.
9. Oh, keep your engine off UNTIL its ready to run at the track. You want your engine as cool as possible.
If you not under the 14s/13s 1/4 mile, most tracks ask you only wear shoes, pants, shirt. Anything faster will likey require a helmet.
Cost-
Truly cheap fun. Usually under $20 for as many runs as you can get.
Please add anything to this thread. Thanks for reading! Good luck out there!!!
The BEST and 1SICKLEX endorsed way of trying this is on THE TRACK!!! There is nothing better than taking your car to the track where you can LEGALLY take you car to ILLEGAL speeds everywhere else.
1. Take your car to the track when its colder (like now). Cold air helps your engine feed cold air. Cold air does make tires cold. Cold tires= slower times. Give em a good spin or two before racing.
2. Take your car to the track stock. This way you have a baseline of where u started at.
3. Diff tracks and diff climates and elevations can effect your times.
4. Go with 1/4 tank of gas. Less gas= less weight. Some even take the spare out but most here drive with the spare daily so most don't use this method.
5. If its an auto, your best bet is to put it in power mode and brake torque to about 2500 rpm (depends on the Lexus) and let the car shift itself. Brake torquing is putting one foot on the gas, one on the brake.
6. Your going to be waiting for that GREEN light. It takes TONS of practice so don't expect any miracles and if you mess up, its okay. Most experts that drive the Pikes Peak race say it takes 3 YEARS to get used to the curvey course. It takes time.
7. Keep your timeslips in a safe place. Post them here. Share your story with others.
8. Yes, its still very, very, very unusual for a Lexus to be at the track and you may get your fair share of funny looks. But put out a decent time (15 second runs are respectable) and your'll get respect. People like to see different cars at the track.
9. Oh, keep your engine off UNTIL its ready to run at the track. You want your engine as cool as possible.
If you not under the 14s/13s 1/4 mile, most tracks ask you only wear shoes, pants, shirt. Anything faster will likey require a helmet.
Cost-
Truly cheap fun. Usually under $20 for as many runs as you can get.
Please add anything to this thread. Thanks for reading! Good luck out there!!!
11-17-04, 06:28 AM
#2
Super Moderator
Down here in and near Mexico City, there are now going to be 3 1/4 mile tracks, I often take my 99 RX AWD to the track to test it out after doing simple mechanic tricks or other mods. A lot of SUV competition down here. Do not street race, it is illegal, and you can really screw up your car. Good, well-paved tracks are the way to go, and you really know who won fair and square.
Here are a few other tips to add:
1) No Cold Air box? Use Duct Tape to seal up that box, and the box will stay cool. Some of us use dry ice or a bag of ice to keep the intake cold.
2) True, keep your engine off until the race and KEEP YOUR HOOD OPEN. Make sure that car is up to proper engine temperature (warmed up); otherwise you will get slow surprise when car goes from 1st to 2nd. Your car will be as slow as a Cow. I have seen this too many times at our track, and you will get a lot of jeers.
3) I agree take the car stock. Master the car you have before you mod it.
4) Oh yes, being up 7,000+ feet here and with terrible Pemex gas cuts my times by about 2 secs, elevation and climates are killers
5) I would say between 1/2 and 1/4 full of gas, as you do not want it swishing around or eating up the crud at the bottom of the tank
6) Depending on the type of car, you may want to keep the spare in to weigh down the back of the car, but for 4x4s dump it
7) With auto, I can add this format:
a) Turn on PWR Mode
b) Turn off Overdrive, to get some more boost at the start
c) At start line, put foot on brake really hard
d) Push accelerator as high as it will go (in my case, 2000 RPM or so)
e) Once you are off and running and hit 40 mph or hit close to 6000 RPM, whichever is first, push the overdrive button back in to open up the higher gear
f) God speed and may you fly to victory
8) At the light, I go right at the tip of the 3rd light (last light before green), and I consistently register in the .5s to .6s on reaction time. This can add as much as .2 to .3 secs over your competition, even if he or she clocks faster times, it is who gets across the line first.
9) You bet it is unusual for a Lexus down here in Mexico (not sold here until about February 2005) and the fact that I run an RX. However, keep it up. I am a firm believer that the best quality cars in the world should also be the best on the track.
10) If you do not need to do burnouts (burning rubber to clean off your tires and get them out), go around the waterbox. At my track, I have to go through it, but I do it slowly.
11) Very important. Turn off all unnecessary electrical items that can rob power.
a) Radio off, save the great music for after you win
b) Lights, usually you must have at least parking lights or Daytime Running Lights
c) AC goes off (this can cause dripping on the track, and they will not like you there)
d) Roll your windows up
e) Turn down the intensity of any dash lights to a minimum
12) Remember, have fun. A lot of us treat it like High School Football from our youthful days. You are going to win and you are going to lose. I keep a little quote in my car from the movie Hoosiers that says it all for getting motivated, "If you put your effort and concentration into playing to your potential, to be the best that you can be, I don't care what the scoreboard says at the end of the game, in my book, we're gonna be winners."
Other tips (but use at your own risk on some of them)
1) Add nitrogen to your tires (Costco does this in the states) and it keep the tires nice and round with no flat spots, and also is unaffected by pressure changes at altitude. I run this in my 235 Cross Terrains.
2) Some people suggest this for tire, +3 psi over maximum for the fronts on a non 4x4 and 25% of maximum for the rears. My tip for my 99 RX, try about 4 psi under max, in my case 40/44.
3) Use synthetic oil (this is a no-brainer)
4) Get a new exhaust, I have an APC Intimidator Free Flow that still complies with CARB/EPA/Decibel levels
5) Wipe off your MAF sensor. Some people like to place the MAF sensor before the air box to trick the computer that it is getting cold air. I personally do not do this
6) To let the engine cool off better after racing (and before you go back in again), Open up your air box (unless you DUCT Taped it like I mentioned, open your oil cap, slightly pull out the dipsticks for your oil and for your ATF. Just make sure you put everything back in before you race again.
7) Sounds strange, but I pick the little rocks out of my tires, feels a little smoother afterwards
8) I generally reset the #13 EFI fuse in the box to blank the computer, or for most you can just pull the negative battery cable off for about 5 minutes or so (from experience) and that will get your transmission out of COW mode
9) Get new spark plugs, I have personal experience with Denso Iridiums and Torquemasters, but am now moving to NGK Iridium IXs in a month for a final evaluation.
10) Ground cables. You can find many on Ebay, or speaker wire often works. If properly done, you can squeeze a few more HP with your battery
11) Switch to a better battery. That is why I am going over to an Optima. Your engine needs power, not just gas
12) Get a car wash, and if at all possible, get a wash done underneath the car (trust me on this one)
13) I like to get underneath the car and WD-40 certain moving parts like the axles and other moving areas
14) Octane Booster (allowed down here, because the gas will simply not ignite well given its poor quality), yet most stateside tracks will sell High Octane 116+ Sunoco, including our own. 116+ is a little too extreme for my RX. A lot of guys down like the little NOS Octane Booster bottles you find at Wal-Mart that give you +7. Realistically, you probably do not need this north of the border with good gas.
15) Get an alignment (most important of the three), balance and rotation done before you go to the track for the first time and check your tire pressures.
16) Take out an unnecessary weight (no-brainer)
As you can imagine, I take great pride in showing what a Lexus can do.
My times? Well given altitude and the horrendous gas, I have gone from a 19.8 down to an 18.4 for the 1/4 mile. I think at sea level the car should do 16.8 if memory serves me correct.
Most other SUVS including Mercedes MLs and BMW X5s are still clocking between 19.1 and 19.4
There is one Dodge Charger down here that clocks about 18.7 to 18.9, but he uses a NX Express kit to do this. A brand new Jeep Grand Cherokee clocked a 19.4 last week. I often see one of those 210 hp Ford Escapes running 18.8s to 18.9s. Minivans (even the new Sienna), which you often see in bracket competitions, get 20s.
We even have high-powered 60s to 70s Volkswagen Beetles clocking 12s consistently, yet we had a news 600 HP VW Golf that did 11.8.
We rarely have cars that go under 10 secs, even bikes. So that tells you that altitude makes a huge difference, even though most muscle cars fill up on the High Octane gas sold at the track.
Here are a few other tips to add:
1) No Cold Air box? Use Duct Tape to seal up that box, and the box will stay cool. Some of us use dry ice or a bag of ice to keep the intake cold.
2) True, keep your engine off until the race and KEEP YOUR HOOD OPEN. Make sure that car is up to proper engine temperature (warmed up); otherwise you will get slow surprise when car goes from 1st to 2nd. Your car will be as slow as a Cow. I have seen this too many times at our track, and you will get a lot of jeers.
3) I agree take the car stock. Master the car you have before you mod it.
4) Oh yes, being up 7,000+ feet here and with terrible Pemex gas cuts my times by about 2 secs, elevation and climates are killers
5) I would say between 1/2 and 1/4 full of gas, as you do not want it swishing around or eating up the crud at the bottom of the tank
6) Depending on the type of car, you may want to keep the spare in to weigh down the back of the car, but for 4x4s dump it
7) With auto, I can add this format:
a) Turn on PWR Mode
b) Turn off Overdrive, to get some more boost at the start
c) At start line, put foot on brake really hard
d) Push accelerator as high as it will go (in my case, 2000 RPM or so)
e) Once you are off and running and hit 40 mph or hit close to 6000 RPM, whichever is first, push the overdrive button back in to open up the higher gear
f) God speed and may you fly to victory
8) At the light, I go right at the tip of the 3rd light (last light before green), and I consistently register in the .5s to .6s on reaction time. This can add as much as .2 to .3 secs over your competition, even if he or she clocks faster times, it is who gets across the line first.
9) You bet it is unusual for a Lexus down here in Mexico (not sold here until about February 2005) and the fact that I run an RX. However, keep it up. I am a firm believer that the best quality cars in the world should also be the best on the track.
10) If you do not need to do burnouts (burning rubber to clean off your tires and get them out), go around the waterbox. At my track, I have to go through it, but I do it slowly.
11) Very important. Turn off all unnecessary electrical items that can rob power.
a) Radio off, save the great music for after you win
b) Lights, usually you must have at least parking lights or Daytime Running Lights
c) AC goes off (this can cause dripping on the track, and they will not like you there)
d) Roll your windows up
e) Turn down the intensity of any dash lights to a minimum
12) Remember, have fun. A lot of us treat it like High School Football from our youthful days. You are going to win and you are going to lose. I keep a little quote in my car from the movie Hoosiers that says it all for getting motivated, "If you put your effort and concentration into playing to your potential, to be the best that you can be, I don't care what the scoreboard says at the end of the game, in my book, we're gonna be winners."
Other tips (but use at your own risk on some of them)
1) Add nitrogen to your tires (Costco does this in the states) and it keep the tires nice and round with no flat spots, and also is unaffected by pressure changes at altitude. I run this in my 235 Cross Terrains.
2) Some people suggest this for tire, +3 psi over maximum for the fronts on a non 4x4 and 25% of maximum for the rears. My tip for my 99 RX, try about 4 psi under max, in my case 40/44.
3) Use synthetic oil (this is a no-brainer)
4) Get a new exhaust, I have an APC Intimidator Free Flow that still complies with CARB/EPA/Decibel levels
5) Wipe off your MAF sensor. Some people like to place the MAF sensor before the air box to trick the computer that it is getting cold air. I personally do not do this
6) To let the engine cool off better after racing (and before you go back in again), Open up your air box (unless you DUCT Taped it like I mentioned, open your oil cap, slightly pull out the dipsticks for your oil and for your ATF. Just make sure you put everything back in before you race again.
7) Sounds strange, but I pick the little rocks out of my tires, feels a little smoother afterwards
8) I generally reset the #13 EFI fuse in the box to blank the computer, or for most you can just pull the negative battery cable off for about 5 minutes or so (from experience) and that will get your transmission out of COW mode
9) Get new spark plugs, I have personal experience with Denso Iridiums and Torquemasters, but am now moving to NGK Iridium IXs in a month for a final evaluation.
10) Ground cables. You can find many on Ebay, or speaker wire often works. If properly done, you can squeeze a few more HP with your battery
11) Switch to a better battery. That is why I am going over to an Optima. Your engine needs power, not just gas
12) Get a car wash, and if at all possible, get a wash done underneath the car (trust me on this one)
13) I like to get underneath the car and WD-40 certain moving parts like the axles and other moving areas
14) Octane Booster (allowed down here, because the gas will simply not ignite well given its poor quality), yet most stateside tracks will sell High Octane 116+ Sunoco, including our own. 116+ is a little too extreme for my RX. A lot of guys down like the little NOS Octane Booster bottles you find at Wal-Mart that give you +7. Realistically, you probably do not need this north of the border with good gas.
15) Get an alignment (most important of the three), balance and rotation done before you go to the track for the first time and check your tire pressures.
16) Take out an unnecessary weight (no-brainer)
As you can imagine, I take great pride in showing what a Lexus can do.
My times? Well given altitude and the horrendous gas, I have gone from a 19.8 down to an 18.4 for the 1/4 mile. I think at sea level the car should do 16.8 if memory serves me correct.
Most other SUVS including Mercedes MLs and BMW X5s are still clocking between 19.1 and 19.4
There is one Dodge Charger down here that clocks about 18.7 to 18.9, but he uses a NX Express kit to do this. A brand new Jeep Grand Cherokee clocked a 19.4 last week. I often see one of those 210 hp Ford Escapes running 18.8s to 18.9s. Minivans (even the new Sienna), which you often see in bracket competitions, get 20s.
We even have high-powered 60s to 70s Volkswagen Beetles clocking 12s consistently, yet we had a news 600 HP VW Golf that did 11.8.
We rarely have cars that go under 10 secs, even bikes. So that tells you that altitude makes a huge difference, even though most muscle cars fill up on the High Octane gas sold at the track.
11-22-04, 11:17 AM
#3
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I've raced everything on the 1/4 mile - Subaru's, Supra's, Ferrari, motorbikes and formula 3 cars.
Here are my tips for a fast time :
- 50% or less fuel
- Traction control OFF
- PWR mode selected
- Spare tyre removed
- No passengers
- engine should be warmed up to normal operating temp.
As you stage for take-off :
- Hold BRAKE with LEFT foot hard.
- Rev the engine to 2000-2500 rpm
- if you have a V300 like me, you can shift to 'L' gear and build the revs to 3000-4000 rpm, the tyres may be spinning at this point (Traction control off obviously)
- floor accelerator / remove brake on the AMBER. By the time it's GREEN you'll be moving.
To make your car go faster without modifying the engine :
- use a road legal slick or slick tyres on the rear.
- remove your foglights if they are blocking the intercooler like on the GS
- freeze up your intercooler with CO2 cannister just before you go.
See some 1/4 vids at www.lexusvertex.com/movies.htm
Here are my tips for a fast time :
- 50% or less fuel
- Traction control OFF
- PWR mode selected
- Spare tyre removed
- No passengers
- engine should be warmed up to normal operating temp.
As you stage for take-off :
- Hold BRAKE with LEFT foot hard.
- Rev the engine to 2000-2500 rpm
- if you have a V300 like me, you can shift to 'L' gear and build the revs to 3000-4000 rpm, the tyres may be spinning at this point (Traction control off obviously)
- floor accelerator / remove brake on the AMBER. By the time it's GREEN you'll be moving.
To make your car go faster without modifying the engine :
- use a road legal slick or slick tyres on the rear.
- remove your foglights if they are blocking the intercooler like on the GS
- freeze up your intercooler with CO2 cannister just before you go.
See some 1/4 vids at www.lexusvertex.com/movies.htm
11-23-04, 07:20 AM
#4
Super Moderator
Yoshi,
You would not believe how many people bring their buddies in the car when they race, girlfriends, wives and friends with the videocamera. Not much great to film when you lose. Then they keep asking me why I win.
On my RX, it takes about 10 minutes to warm up, and I keep the hood open at all times. Most of us pull out our dipsticks for our tranny and oil, along with opening the engine oil cap, both when starting up and between races, especially when you are doing brackets.
You would not believe how many people bring their buddies in the car when they race, girlfriends, wives and friends with the videocamera. Not much great to film when you lose. Then they keep asking me why I win.
On my RX, it takes about 10 minutes to warm up, and I keep the hood open at all times. Most of us pull out our dipsticks for our tranny and oil, along with opening the engine oil cap, both when starting up and between races, especially when you are doing brackets.
11-30-04, 10:30 AM
#5
Super Moderator
Wanted to give another update or two.
Very important. I raced on Saturday night, but with immensely slow times. I finally traced it to my oil, a Mobil 1 5W-30 weight (it gets cold down here and up here) that I use during the winter. A UOA revealed that the weight had dropped down to low 20s. I promptly switched to a Mobil 1 5W-50 (supposedly made in France, but not available in the states to my knowledge), and that did the trick at the track on Sunday night. Check to see that your oil does not drip too much like water, as mine was definitely sheared.
I planning to go with a few mods (although there has been criticism/support of some of these), but anything that can help with the low oxygen content of the air and bad gas is worth it:
1) Weapon-R Cold Air Box with Dragon Intake
2) Grounding wires likely from Sun
3) Hyper voltage system likely from Sun
4) Tom's Radiator Cap
5) Spark plugs, I am leaning toward Denso or NGK, tried Torquemasters once in my RX, and nada
6) Leaning toward a Stinger battery over the Optima, most dragsters down here are going with Stingers
7) Home made air scoop (the RX takes indirectly, from behind the left headlight, divided by barrier from the engine. I figure making a scoop kind of a rounded spatula bottom (where the air would hit), with holes to let the bugs fly by) and up a round hose streching vertically to the entrance of the route of the air would give a better effect. Some buddies have done this with other cars and use two Tornadoes to better flow air, (though personally I think the Tornadoes only add 1 HP in their own brains).
I have been told by many that perhaps a small electrical supercharger or perhaps a small turbo could possibly be added to an RX. I have seen an Intercooler once for the car, but figure better to make your own as it probably costs in the 1000s USD.
Will keep all of you updated on the project.
One more update, I have been experimenting with the overdrive button with the PWR mode on at the track. You can gain about .1 (maybe .2) if you precisely time the point at about 40 mph or 6,000 rpm, whichever is first (I usually look at RPM) to put the overdrive back in.
Last Sunday, I tried PWR mode and overdrive off and was getting similar times to the process I mentioned above. Will keep you informed on my experiments.
Very important. I raced on Saturday night, but with immensely slow times. I finally traced it to my oil, a Mobil 1 5W-30 weight (it gets cold down here and up here) that I use during the winter. A UOA revealed that the weight had dropped down to low 20s. I promptly switched to a Mobil 1 5W-50 (supposedly made in France, but not available in the states to my knowledge), and that did the trick at the track on Sunday night. Check to see that your oil does not drip too much like water, as mine was definitely sheared.
I planning to go with a few mods (although there has been criticism/support of some of these), but anything that can help with the low oxygen content of the air and bad gas is worth it:
1) Weapon-R Cold Air Box with Dragon Intake
2) Grounding wires likely from Sun
3) Hyper voltage system likely from Sun
4) Tom's Radiator Cap
5) Spark plugs, I am leaning toward Denso or NGK, tried Torquemasters once in my RX, and nada
6) Leaning toward a Stinger battery over the Optima, most dragsters down here are going with Stingers
7) Home made air scoop (the RX takes indirectly, from behind the left headlight, divided by barrier from the engine. I figure making a scoop kind of a rounded spatula bottom (where the air would hit), with holes to let the bugs fly by) and up a round hose streching vertically to the entrance of the route of the air would give a better effect. Some buddies have done this with other cars and use two Tornadoes to better flow air, (though personally I think the Tornadoes only add 1 HP in their own brains).
I have been told by many that perhaps a small electrical supercharger or perhaps a small turbo could possibly be added to an RX. I have seen an Intercooler once for the car, but figure better to make your own as it probably costs in the 1000s USD.
Will keep all of you updated on the project.
One more update, I have been experimenting with the overdrive button with the PWR mode on at the track. You can gain about .1 (maybe .2) if you precisely time the point at about 40 mph or 6,000 rpm, whichever is first (I usually look at RPM) to put the overdrive back in.
Last Sunday, I tried PWR mode and overdrive off and was getting similar times to the process I mentioned above. Will keep you informed on my experiments.
Last edited by Lexmex; 11-30-04 at 10:33 AM.
12-01-04, 05:04 AM
#7
Super Moderator
Yoshi,
I will see if I l can locate that oil here. I know Shell sells oils here, but often times we do not get the same grades as other places. Perhaps, people in my racing group are up for a little trial.
Most down here race Quaker State regular or synthetic, but I have seen two many UOAs that do not bear out good results.
I like that you are using Castrol SRF, that makes two of us. Some of the other racers cannot afford this stuff and go with LMF or Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (this stuff is suprisingly good for the price). Our motorcycle group swears by Motul. I have tried Valvoline Powersyn for brake fluid, but SRF is da bomb of brake fluids.
I am currently using the Powersyn steering fluid with excellent results, thought I hear Redline is also very good for steering fluid and its transmission fluid is excellent according to one of my American buddies here.
I will see if I l can locate that oil here. I know Shell sells oils here, but often times we do not get the same grades as other places. Perhaps, people in my racing group are up for a little trial.
Most down here race Quaker State regular or synthetic, but I have seen two many UOAs that do not bear out good results.
I like that you are using Castrol SRF, that makes two of us. Some of the other racers cannot afford this stuff and go with LMF or Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (this stuff is suprisingly good for the price). Our motorcycle group swears by Motul. I have tried Valvoline Powersyn for brake fluid, but SRF is da bomb of brake fluids.
I am currently using the Powersyn steering fluid with excellent results, thought I hear Redline is also very good for steering fluid and its transmission fluid is excellent according to one of my American buddies here.
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12-01-04, 11:53 AM
#8
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Location: International
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I'll need to try the Redline stuff...I'm not sure what transmission fluid is in my vehicle as my mechanic changed it...it's type iv anyway.
The SRF is very good, it only needs changed every 18 months. I like the Project-mu racing pads, good for 200 laps but very expensive - around $350 for a set of fronts, but they sure last.
I recently cracked my discs and ripped a tyre wall in one of my slicks...but the brake pads/fluid were still 100%. I'm going for the combi-drilled discs this time but hear they can crack also.
The SRF is very good, it only needs changed every 18 months. I like the Project-mu racing pads, good for 200 laps but very expensive - around $350 for a set of fronts, but they sure last.
I recently cracked my discs and ripped a tyre wall in one of my slicks...but the brake pads/fluid were still 100%. I'm going for the combi-drilled discs this time but hear they can crack also.
04-30-06, 11:11 AM
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
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Personally I'd never go to the track without the following:
-billet oil cap = handles increased oil pressures created when racing
-hid's = illuminates track more efficiently so you can see imperfections on surface
-20" wheels or larger = allows more room for brakes to cool
-aftermarket spoilers = creates downforce, essential on FWD car
-massive sways and strut tower bars = help suspension better handle launch.
-carbon fiber front canards = creates downforce in front, disrupts vortexs
-body kit = make car more aerodynamic
-tinted windows = reduces heatsoak, keeps engine cooler.
-led washer nozzles = illuminates winshield for better visability.
-vinyl decals = helps pick up sponsers
-billet oil cap = handles increased oil pressures created when racing
-hid's = illuminates track more efficiently so you can see imperfections on surface
-20" wheels or larger = allows more room for brakes to cool
-aftermarket spoilers = creates downforce, essential on FWD car
-massive sways and strut tower bars = help suspension better handle launch.
-carbon fiber front canards = creates downforce in front, disrupts vortexs
-body kit = make car more aerodynamic
-tinted windows = reduces heatsoak, keeps engine cooler.
-led washer nozzles = illuminates winshield for better visability.
-vinyl decals = helps pick up sponsers
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