Brake Fluid Change Non Techstream Method
04-11-15, 07:34 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Brake Fluid Change Non Techstream Method
I just wanted to confirm that the non-Techstream method of brake fluid change is entirely doable. This should work for Prius Gen III as well since that's essentially the same car.
Once you put the car into ECB invalid mode, the front brakes bleed like conventional brakes. The rear brakes are flushed using the actuator.
I think it’s best to start with the rear to flush out all the old fluid first even though the service manual says to start with the fronts. The reservoir drains very quickly when doing the rear brakes. You can use this to drain the reservoir completely and be sure that only clean fluid is flowing through the first rear brake that you bleed. Then all the other brakes will be sucking clean fluid from the reservoir. If you start with the front it takes forever to drain out the old fluid in the reservoir. You could also suck out the fluid in the reservoir before starting but why do the work when the car will do it for you?
No DTCs were thrown when starting with the rears vs the fronts.
Why use the manual method vs TechStream? It's a lot faster. TechStream forces to start with the front brakes. It's also just incredibly slow. If you have TechStream you can use it to clear codes if any should be thrown so you have a back up plan.
Tools Required
- 8 mm box wrench (front)
- 3/16” ID hose (front)
- 10mm box wrench (rear)
- 1/8” to 3/16” ID hose (rear)
- 1L DOT 3 brake fluid (you will use this much if you don't suck out the reservoir first)
Once you put the car into ECB invalid mode, the front brakes bleed like conventional brakes. The rear brakes are flushed using the actuator.
I think it’s best to start with the rear to flush out all the old fluid first even though the service manual says to start with the fronts. The reservoir drains very quickly when doing the rear brakes. You can use this to drain the reservoir completely and be sure that only clean fluid is flowing through the first rear brake that you bleed. Then all the other brakes will be sucking clean fluid from the reservoir. If you start with the front it takes forever to drain out the old fluid in the reservoir. You could also suck out the fluid in the reservoir before starting but why do the work when the car will do it for you?
No DTCs were thrown when starting with the rears vs the fronts.
Why use the manual method vs TechStream? It's a lot faster. TechStream forces to start with the front brakes. It's also just incredibly slow. If you have TechStream you can use it to clear codes if any should be thrown so you have a back up plan.
Tools Required
- 8 mm box wrench (front)
- 3/16” ID hose (front)
- 10mm box wrench (rear)
- 1/8” to 3/16” ID hose (rear)
- 1L DOT 3 brake fluid (you will use this much if you don't suck out the reservoir first)
Last edited by usando; 04-13-15 at 07:55 PM.
04-13-15, 12:13 PM
#4
It varies by manufacturers, so check your owners manual. Some don't even list it as regular maintenance. I like to change at about every 30,000 miles. Brake fluid has a tendency to pick up moisture even though some system does a better job then others sealing the fluid from air. Too much moisture raises the boiling point which could be a issue especially riding the brakes going downhill. Also moisture could cause corrosion in the system. Some could argue that 30 k is too often, but it's not that expensive and it makes for better sleep for me.
04-25-15, 04:14 AM
#5
It varies by manufacturers, so check your owners manual. Some don't even list it as regular maintenance. I like to change at about every 30,000 miles. Brake fluid has a tendency to pick up moisture even though some system does a better job then others sealing the fluid from air. Too much moisture raises the boiling point which could be a issue especially riding the brakes going downhill. Also moisture could cause corrosion in the system. Some could argue that 30 k is too often, but it's not that expensive and it makes for better sleep for me.
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