Price paid for Lexus CT 200h
12-30-13, 03:23 PM
#271
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I actually just declined my best offer for a slightly worst offer but near my home.
Dealer 1 offered $1,000 down, $220/month for 27 month lease, 10K miles per year
Dealer 2 offered $1,300 down, $226/month for 27 month lease, 10K miles/year
I left it to my girlfriend and she chose dealer 2 as they are 10 minutes from our house, and dealer 1 is in another state, maybe an hour and a half each way, which will eat up at least some of the savings in gas back and forth, back with 2 cars. We asked if Dealer 2 could match Dealer 1 but they said their offer is the absolute best they can do. They had originally told her $2,050 down $325/month for 12K miles, so they did come down quite a bit.
Also, dealer 1 salesperson pushy, and not completely forthcoming when asked questions. So, hoping we got a good deal, will hopefully have our CT200H in the next few days.
FYI, I was given a $33,000 price to purchase, with Nav, Premium Nav Package, Seat Comfort Package, Wheel locks, Cargo Mat, Cargo Net, Rear Bumper Applique. MSRP $37,500.
12-30-13, 05:56 PM
#272
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Finally got the deal I wanted today. MSRP was $37,433 and was able to get it for $33,400 with tint out the door price.
HDD Nav System
Premium Package
Seat Comfort Package
Cargo Net, Cargo Mat, Wheel Locks
Nuluxe interior
HDD Nav System
Premium Package
Seat Comfort Package
Cargo Net, Cargo Mat, Wheel Locks
Nuluxe interior
01-02-14, 08:41 AM
#273
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Location: NY
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Ct200h
Sweet!
I actually just declined my best offer for a slightly worst offer but near my home.
Dealer 1 offered $1,000 down, $220/month for 27 month lease, 10K miles per year
Dealer 2 offered $1,300 down, $226/month for 27 month lease, 10K miles/year
I left it to my girlfriend and she chose dealer 2 as they are 10 minutes from our house, and dealer 1 is in another state, maybe an hour and a half each way, which will eat up at least some of the savings in gas back and forth, back with 2 cars. We asked if Dealer 2 could match Dealer 1 but they said their offer is the absolute best they can do. They had originally told her $2,050 down $325/month for 12K miles, so they did come down quite a bit.
Also, dealer 1 salesperson pushy, and not completely forthcoming when asked questions. So, hoping we got a good deal, will hopefully have our CT200H in the next few days.
FYI, I was given a $33,000 price to purchase, with Nav, Premium Nav Package, Seat Comfort Package, Wheel locks, Cargo Mat, Cargo Net, Rear Bumper Applique. MSRP $37,500.
I actually just declined my best offer for a slightly worst offer but near my home.
Dealer 1 offered $1,000 down, $220/month for 27 month lease, 10K miles per year
Dealer 2 offered $1,300 down, $226/month for 27 month lease, 10K miles/year
I left it to my girlfriend and she chose dealer 2 as they are 10 minutes from our house, and dealer 1 is in another state, maybe an hour and a half each way, which will eat up at least some of the savings in gas back and forth, back with 2 cars. We asked if Dealer 2 could match Dealer 1 but they said their offer is the absolute best they can do. They had originally told her $2,050 down $325/month for 12K miles, so they did come down quite a bit.
Also, dealer 1 salesperson pushy, and not completely forthcoming when asked questions. So, hoping we got a good deal, will hopefully have our CT200H in the next few days.
FYI, I was given a $33,000 price to purchase, with Nav, Premium Nav Package, Seat Comfort Package, Wheel locks, Cargo Mat, Cargo Net, Rear Bumper Applique. MSRP $37,500.
Thank you.
01-02-14, 11:11 PM
#274
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They both came in much higher initially but I played them against each other. Greenwich refused to budge after their last offer, which makes me think that's about as low as they're comfortable going. Final decision was up to my gf and she chose to pay the few hundred more to stay local.
01-03-14, 07:00 AM
#275
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$32,679 cap cost (37,500 MSRP)
.00060 Money factor
68% residual
27 month, 10k miles
01-03-14, 08:48 AM
#276
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Don't be afraid to tell little white lies to the dealers. If other dealer told you they'd sell for $34,000, tell dealer 2 they told you $33,500. Get one to the point where they say they can't do any better in relation to the other, and you've likely found their rock bottom, where they are making the minimum profit to be worth it to them. I normally am not a proponent of lies, but dealers lie all the time, they are trying to take as much money from you as possible, NOT get you a good deal. Add to the fact they have a distinct advantage over you. They know all the facts, you don't. They know how much they paid for the car, they know about all the incentives and holdbacks, etc. And guess what, most likely they are NOT telling you this info. Even if they show you the "invoice", it's probably because there's a holdback or other incentive they're not showing you. Or they're charging you $600 Doc fee or some other insane fee. (probably cost them less than $75 to prep your documents, probably much less). I'm sitting here looking at the quote the saleperson gave my GF when she went to the dealer first without me. $37,500 MSRP, $2,500 "Preferred Customer Discount". Final sale price $35,000. Some might think that's a great deal and jump on it, and oooh! I'm a preferred customer! I got that price down below $33,000.
Insist on information WHEN you ask for it. I paid a few hundred more for the deal I took, not only bc it was closer, but also because the cheaper offer salesperson didn't want to answer my questions with a straight answer.
Example: I asked him the Capitalized Cost of the car. He said why does it matter if I get you the payment you want? He didn't want to tell me the price of the $37,500 car I was buying. Who knows what surprises might have been in store for me when I drove the hour and a half to get there.
Learn about leases. I knew nothing at the start of this. I researched how leases work, how they're calculated, typical fees, etc. Learn at least these terms and ask for the details:
Capitalized Cost (basically purchase price but for leases - lessor is actually the one buying)
Money Factor (interest you are paying, multiply this by 2400 to get an interest rate you are used to seeing)
Residual Value (% of MSRP the car is estimated to be worth at end of lease - basically you are paying the difference between the cap cost and this number, plus interest aka the money factor plus any fees. So, the lower you can negotiate cap cost, and the higher residual % which is not negotiable from my research, the lower the payment)
Acquisition Fee (standard leasing fee)
Good Lease Glossary: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/buying...ase-a-car4.htm
Ask about the warranty. Ask about charge per mile over your included mileage, ask about purchase option at end, ask about wear and tear at lease return. You may already know all this and if so I apologize, but maybe this will be helpful to someone else reading this if they don't. I knew zero about leases before this, and now I can calculate payments on a lease on my own given the right info, and this is with 1-2 hours research online. Many many people are ripped off because they don't even know what they're signing up for. The best consumer is an educated consumer. Close the gap of knowledge between you and the dealer, you won't close it all the way because they do it for a living, but close it as much as you can. Knowledge is power. Every dealer I spoke to pushes leases more, and I think a big part of that is it's easier to fool the consumer, b/c it's trickier to understand, and you can be lured by the lower payments.
For anyone interested in a lot of shady practices of car dealers, and how to best negotiate for a new car, get fair trade in, get best financing etc., I HIGHLY recommend the book Don't Get Taken Every Time by Remar Sutton. I have the digital version I purchased on Amazon and read on my iPad. It's not only extremely informative, but also entertaining. He also has a website: http://www.dontgettakeneverytime.com/
Last edited by supervelou; 01-03-14 at 10:34 AM.
01-03-14, 11:48 AM
#277
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: NY
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Thank you!
Sorry for the rapid fire posts, but just a little advice. Don't think that because TrueCar gave you a price, that the dealer is basing their lease on that price. Be respectful yet tough with the dealer salesperson, and talk to MORE THAN 1 dealer. Competition will change their numbers FAST. Also, they will pressure you to buy/lease a car "today". "What will it take you to buy a car today"? They'll try to throw all kinds of numbers at you to see what your hot button is, whether they can do it or not. "$199/mo payment, if I could get you that would you buy a car today"? Do not be pressured by these people, a car is a big purchase and you should do it on your own terms. If they tell you the sale is only good till the end of the day, or the deal is only good for a half hour, they're usually "LYING".
Don't be afraid to tell little white lies to the dealers. If other dealer told you they'd sell for $34,000, tell dealer 2 they told you $33,500. Get one to the point where they say they can't do any better in relation to the other, and you've likely found their rock bottom, where they are making the minimum profit to be worth it to them. I normally am not a proponent of lies, but dealers lie all the time, they are trying to take as much money from you as possible, NOT get you a good deal. Add to the fact they have a distinct advantage over you. They know all the facts, you don't. They know how much they paid for the car, they know about all the incentives and holdbacks, etc. And guess what, most likely they are NOT telling you this info. Even if they show you the "invoice", it's probably because there's a holdback or other incentive they're not showing you. Or they're charging you $600 Doc fee or some other insane fee. (probably cost them less than $75 to prep your documents, probably much less). I'm sitting here looking at the quote the saleperson gave my GF when she went to the dealer first without me. $37,500 MSRP, $2,500 "Preferred Customer Discount". Final sale price $35,000. Some might think that's a great deal and jump on it, and oooh! I'm a preferred customer! I got that price down below $33,000.
Insist on information WHEN you ask for it. I paid a few hundred more for the deal I took, not only bc it was closer, but also because the cheaper offer salesperson didn't want to answer my questions with a straight answer.
Example: I asked him the Capitalized Cost of the car. He said why does it matter if I get you the payment you want? He didn't want to tell me the price of the $37,500 car I was buying. Who knows what surprises might have been in store for me when I drove the hour and a half to get there.
Learn about leases. I knew nothing at the start of this. I researched how leases work, how they're calculated, typical fees, etc. Learn at least these terms and ask for the details:
Capitalized Cost (basically purchase price but for leases - lessor is actually the one buying)
Money Factor (interest you are paying, multiply this by 2400 to get an interest rate you are used to seeing)
Residual Value (% of MSRP the car is estimated to be worth at end of lease - basically you are paying the difference between the cap cost and this number, plus interest aka the money factor plus any fees. So, the lower you can negotiate cap cost, and the higher residual % which is not negotiable from my research, the lower the payment)
Acquisition Fee (standard leasing fee)
Good Lease Glossary: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/buying...ase-a-car4.htm
Ask about the warranty. Ask about charge per mile over your included mileage, ask about purchase option at end, ask about wear and tear at lease return. You may already know all this and if so I apologize, but maybe this will be helpful to someone else reading this if they don't. I knew zero about leases before this, and now I can calculate payments on a lease on my own given the right info, and this is with 1-2 hours research online. Many many people are ripped off because they don't even know what they're signing up for. The best consumer is an educated consumer. Close the gap of knowledge between you and the dealer, you won't close it all the way because they do it for a living, but close it as much as you can. Knowledge is power. Every dealer I spoke to pushes leases more, and I think a big part of that is it's easier to fool the consumer, b/c it's trickier to understand, and you can be lured by the lower payments.
For anyone interested in a lot of shady practices of car dealers, and how to best negotiate for a new car, get fair trade in, get best financing etc., I HIGHLY recommend the book Don't Get Taken Every Time by Remar Sutton. I have the digital version I purchased on Amazon and read on my iPad. It's not only extremely informative, but also entertaining. He also has a website: http://www.dontgettakeneverytime.com/
Don't be afraid to tell little white lies to the dealers. If other dealer told you they'd sell for $34,000, tell dealer 2 they told you $33,500. Get one to the point where they say they can't do any better in relation to the other, and you've likely found their rock bottom, where they are making the minimum profit to be worth it to them. I normally am not a proponent of lies, but dealers lie all the time, they are trying to take as much money from you as possible, NOT get you a good deal. Add to the fact they have a distinct advantage over you. They know all the facts, you don't. They know how much they paid for the car, they know about all the incentives and holdbacks, etc. And guess what, most likely they are NOT telling you this info. Even if they show you the "invoice", it's probably because there's a holdback or other incentive they're not showing you. Or they're charging you $600 Doc fee or some other insane fee. (probably cost them less than $75 to prep your documents, probably much less). I'm sitting here looking at the quote the saleperson gave my GF when she went to the dealer first without me. $37,500 MSRP, $2,500 "Preferred Customer Discount". Final sale price $35,000. Some might think that's a great deal and jump on it, and oooh! I'm a preferred customer! I got that price down below $33,000.
Insist on information WHEN you ask for it. I paid a few hundred more for the deal I took, not only bc it was closer, but also because the cheaper offer salesperson didn't want to answer my questions with a straight answer.
Example: I asked him the Capitalized Cost of the car. He said why does it matter if I get you the payment you want? He didn't want to tell me the price of the $37,500 car I was buying. Who knows what surprises might have been in store for me when I drove the hour and a half to get there.
Learn about leases. I knew nothing at the start of this. I researched how leases work, how they're calculated, typical fees, etc. Learn at least these terms and ask for the details:
Capitalized Cost (basically purchase price but for leases - lessor is actually the one buying)
Money Factor (interest you are paying, multiply this by 2400 to get an interest rate you are used to seeing)
Residual Value (% of MSRP the car is estimated to be worth at end of lease - basically you are paying the difference between the cap cost and this number, plus interest aka the money factor plus any fees. So, the lower you can negotiate cap cost, and the higher residual % which is not negotiable from my research, the lower the payment)
Acquisition Fee (standard leasing fee)
Good Lease Glossary: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/buying...ase-a-car4.htm
Ask about the warranty. Ask about charge per mile over your included mileage, ask about purchase option at end, ask about wear and tear at lease return. You may already know all this and if so I apologize, but maybe this will be helpful to someone else reading this if they don't. I knew zero about leases before this, and now I can calculate payments on a lease on my own given the right info, and this is with 1-2 hours research online. Many many people are ripped off because they don't even know what they're signing up for. The best consumer is an educated consumer. Close the gap of knowledge between you and the dealer, you won't close it all the way because they do it for a living, but close it as much as you can. Knowledge is power. Every dealer I spoke to pushes leases more, and I think a big part of that is it's easier to fool the consumer, b/c it's trickier to understand, and you can be lured by the lower payments.
For anyone interested in a lot of shady practices of car dealers, and how to best negotiate for a new car, get fair trade in, get best financing etc., I HIGHLY recommend the book Don't Get Taken Every Time by Remar Sutton. I have the digital version I purchased on Amazon and read on my iPad. It's not only extremely informative, but also entertaining. He also has a website: http://www.dontgettakeneverytime.com/
I was also talking to Englewood dealership as well as few others including some Leasing companies. All dealerships were pushing me to come in and Englewood were really slimy about it....
I ended up going with a leasing company, closed the deal over the internet with a pretty good price (no haggling, no nonsense)
$31.080 cap cost (37,724MSRP)
.00060 Money factor
70% residual
24 month, 10k miles
My payments will be $245 with taxes rolled into payments and $0 down.
01-03-14, 11:51 AM
#278
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: CT
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Thank you so much for your advice!!! You have been really helpful!
I was also talking to Englewood dealership as well as few others including some Leasing companies. All dealerships were pushing me to come in and Englewood were really slimy about it....
I ended up going with a leasing company, closed the deal over the internet with a pretty good price (no haggling, no nonsense)
$31.080 cap cost (37,724MSRP)
.00060 Money factor
70% residual
24 month, 10k miles
My payments will be $245 with taxes rolled into payments and $0 down.
I was also talking to Englewood dealership as well as few others including some Leasing companies. All dealerships were pushing me to come in and Englewood were really slimy about it....
I ended up going with a leasing company, closed the deal over the internet with a pretty good price (no haggling, no nonsense)
$31.080 cap cost (37,724MSRP)
.00060 Money factor
70% residual
24 month, 10k miles
My payments will be $245 with taxes rolled into payments and $0 down.
01-03-14, 12:24 PM
#279
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: NY
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01-09-14, 08:28 AM
#281
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: CA
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01-09-14, 10:03 AM
#282
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Hi,
Deal is done, and some things are slightly updated so I'll provide updated numbers in case it helps anyone. Was definitely a learning experience, my first time negotiating a lease. Here's what we got:
MSRP: $38,491 (Premium Package, Nav, Premium Sound, Seat Comfort, Remote Start, Cargo Tray and a few other accessories, Glass Breakage Sensors)
New 2013 CT200h Starfire Pearl Exterior (really important to my gf to get this color), black interior
Residual - 68% (26,173.88)
Selling Price - $33,393.96
Rebate - $2,970.05 (I think this is a $2,750 rebate plus first month's payment made for us, from the math)
Acquisition Fee - $700
Registration $ 175 (CT)
Adjusted Cap Cost $30,836.91
Cash Cap Reduction $287 (I understand this is the amount of our down payment that reduced cap cost, rest was fees, Extra Wear & Tear protection we got, etc.)
Selling Price minus Rebate = 30,243.91 (I consider this selling price, since it was a rebate, not paid by us, although docs list the 33K number)
Other Fees: Dealer Conveyance $399 - this is high IMO but CT dealers don't really budge on this and since we were happy with other terms we paid it
Vin Etch - $179, I asked for this to be taken off, we didn't want it, since the car we wanted had to be delivered from another dealership and already had it, they kept it on and reduced the car cost by the $179 to compensate
Amount Due at Start: We had agreed to $1,300.00. Against my recommendation, my GF bought the Extra Wear and Tear package for about $875, since she regularly has our dog in the car and runs up against curbs when parking, gets little dings from time to time. I recommended against it, but it's her car, her money, her decision. We paid $2,040.19 down, of which $875 was Wear & Tear protection. So actually it was about $1,175 down, $220 month if we had declined the Wear & Tear.
Money Factor: 0.00060 - this was a bit of a battle, were quoted this originally, then got to dealer and it was 0.00070. Not much of a difference, but I complained, they put in a request and we ended up getting the 0.00060.
Monthly payment including taxes: $220.05
27 months, 10K miles per year (my girlfriend had her previous car for 4.5 years and drove 37,000 miles so should be enough)
I'm going over the paperwork with a fine toothed comb again, as it's not easy to understand and they definitely don't break down everything clearly. I'm the type who, had it been my car, would have insisted I either take them home, have a lawyer look at them, or take a long long time reading everything. I just don't trust car dealers.
Deal is done, and some things are slightly updated so I'll provide updated numbers in case it helps anyone. Was definitely a learning experience, my first time negotiating a lease. Here's what we got:
MSRP: $38,491 (Premium Package, Nav, Premium Sound, Seat Comfort, Remote Start, Cargo Tray and a few other accessories, Glass Breakage Sensors)
New 2013 CT200h Starfire Pearl Exterior (really important to my gf to get this color), black interior
Residual - 68% (26,173.88)
Selling Price - $33,393.96
Rebate - $2,970.05 (I think this is a $2,750 rebate plus first month's payment made for us, from the math)
Acquisition Fee - $700
Registration $ 175 (CT)
Adjusted Cap Cost $30,836.91
Cash Cap Reduction $287 (I understand this is the amount of our down payment that reduced cap cost, rest was fees, Extra Wear & Tear protection we got, etc.)
Selling Price minus Rebate = 30,243.91 (I consider this selling price, since it was a rebate, not paid by us, although docs list the 33K number)
Other Fees: Dealer Conveyance $399 - this is high IMO but CT dealers don't really budge on this and since we were happy with other terms we paid it
Vin Etch - $179, I asked for this to be taken off, we didn't want it, since the car we wanted had to be delivered from another dealership and already had it, they kept it on and reduced the car cost by the $179 to compensate
Amount Due at Start: We had agreed to $1,300.00. Against my recommendation, my GF bought the Extra Wear and Tear package for about $875, since she regularly has our dog in the car and runs up against curbs when parking, gets little dings from time to time. I recommended against it, but it's her car, her money, her decision. We paid $2,040.19 down, of which $875 was Wear & Tear protection. So actually it was about $1,175 down, $220 month if we had declined the Wear & Tear.
Money Factor: 0.00060 - this was a bit of a battle, were quoted this originally, then got to dealer and it was 0.00070. Not much of a difference, but I complained, they put in a request and we ended up getting the 0.00060.
Monthly payment including taxes: $220.05
27 months, 10K miles per year (my girlfriend had her previous car for 4.5 years and drove 37,000 miles so should be enough)
I'm going over the paperwork with a fine toothed comb again, as it's not easy to understand and they definitely don't break down everything clearly. I'm the type who, had it been my car, would have insisted I either take them home, have a lawyer look at them, or take a long long time reading everything. I just don't trust car dealers.
Last edited by supervelou; 01-09-14 at 10:15 AM.
01-10-14, 09:42 PM
#283
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: DC
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Hi,
Deal is done, and some things are slightly updated so I'll provide updated numbers in case it helps anyone. Was definitely a learning experience, my first time negotiating a lease. Here's what we got:
MSRP: $38,491 (Premium Package, Nav, Premium Sound, Seat Comfort, Remote Start, Cargo Tray and a few other accessories, Glass Breakage Sensors)
New 2013 CT200h Starfire Pearl Exterior (really important to my gf to get this color), black interior
Residual - 68% (26,173.88)
Selling Price - $33,393.96
Rebate - $2,970.05 (I think this is a $2,750 rebate plus first month's payment made for us, from the math)
Acquisition Fee - $700
Registration $ 175 (CT)
Adjusted Cap Cost $30,836.91
Cash Cap Reduction $287 (I understand this is the amount of our down payment that reduced cap cost, rest was fees, Extra Wear & Tear protection we got, etc.)
Selling Price minus Rebate = 30,243.91 (I consider this selling price, since it was a rebate, not paid by us, although docs list the 33K number)
Other Fees: Dealer Conveyance $399 - this is high IMO but CT dealers don't really budge on this and since we were happy with other terms we paid it
Vin Etch - $179, I asked for this to be taken off, we didn't want it, since the car we wanted had to be delivered from another dealership and already had it, they kept it on and reduced the car cost by the $179 to compensate
Amount Due at Start: We had agreed to $1,300.00. Against my recommendation, my GF bought the Extra Wear and Tear package for about $875, since she regularly has our dog in the car and runs up against curbs when parking, gets little dings from time to time. I recommended against it, but it's her car, her money, her decision. We paid $2,040.19 down, of which $875 was Wear & Tear protection. So actually it was about $1,175 down, $220 month if we had declined the Wear & Tear.
Money Factor: 0.00060 - this was a bit of a battle, were quoted this originally, then got to dealer and it was 0.00070. Not much of a difference, but I complained, they put in a request and we ended up getting the 0.00060.
Monthly payment including taxes: $220.05
27 months, 10K miles per year (my girlfriend had her previous car for 4.5 years and drove 37,000 miles so should be enough)
I'm going over the paperwork with a fine toothed comb again, as it's not easy to understand and they definitely don't break down everything clearly. I'm the type who, had it been my car, would have insisted I either take them home, have a lawyer look at them, or take a long long time reading everything. I just don't trust car dealers.
Deal is done, and some things are slightly updated so I'll provide updated numbers in case it helps anyone. Was definitely a learning experience, my first time negotiating a lease. Here's what we got:
MSRP: $38,491 (Premium Package, Nav, Premium Sound, Seat Comfort, Remote Start, Cargo Tray and a few other accessories, Glass Breakage Sensors)
New 2013 CT200h Starfire Pearl Exterior (really important to my gf to get this color), black interior
Residual - 68% (26,173.88)
Selling Price - $33,393.96
Rebate - $2,970.05 (I think this is a $2,750 rebate plus first month's payment made for us, from the math)
Acquisition Fee - $700
Registration $ 175 (CT)
Adjusted Cap Cost $30,836.91
Cash Cap Reduction $287 (I understand this is the amount of our down payment that reduced cap cost, rest was fees, Extra Wear & Tear protection we got, etc.)
Selling Price minus Rebate = 30,243.91 (I consider this selling price, since it was a rebate, not paid by us, although docs list the 33K number)
Other Fees: Dealer Conveyance $399 - this is high IMO but CT dealers don't really budge on this and since we were happy with other terms we paid it
Vin Etch - $179, I asked for this to be taken off, we didn't want it, since the car we wanted had to be delivered from another dealership and already had it, they kept it on and reduced the car cost by the $179 to compensate
Amount Due at Start: We had agreed to $1,300.00. Against my recommendation, my GF bought the Extra Wear and Tear package for about $875, since she regularly has our dog in the car and runs up against curbs when parking, gets little dings from time to time. I recommended against it, but it's her car, her money, her decision. We paid $2,040.19 down, of which $875 was Wear & Tear protection. So actually it was about $1,175 down, $220 month if we had declined the Wear & Tear.
Money Factor: 0.00060 - this was a bit of a battle, were quoted this originally, then got to dealer and it was 0.00070. Not much of a difference, but I complained, they put in a request and we ended up getting the 0.00060.
Monthly payment including taxes: $220.05
27 months, 10K miles per year (my girlfriend had her previous car for 4.5 years and drove 37,000 miles so should be enough)
I'm going over the paperwork with a fine toothed comb again, as it's not easy to understand and they definitely don't break down everything clearly. I'm the type who, had it been my car, would have insisted I either take them home, have a lawyer look at them, or take a long long time reading everything. I just don't trust car dealers.
Do you know if the lease has a disposition fee if you decide to simply turn it in without leasing/buying again?
02-16-14, 07:45 PM
#284
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: CA
Posts: 1
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Thank you so much for your advice!!! You have been really helpful!
I was also talking to Englewood dealership as well as few others including some Leasing companies. All dealerships were pushing me to come in and Englewood were really slimy about it....
I ended up going with a leasing company, closed the deal over the internet with a pretty good price (no haggling, no nonsense)
$31.080 cap cost (37,724MSRP)
.00060 Money factor
70% residual
24 month, 10k miles
My payments will be $245 with taxes rolled into payments and $0 down.
I was also talking to Englewood dealership as well as few others including some Leasing companies. All dealerships were pushing me to come in and Englewood were really slimy about it....
I ended up going with a leasing company, closed the deal over the internet with a pretty good price (no haggling, no nonsense)
$31.080 cap cost (37,724MSRP)
.00060 Money factor
70% residual
24 month, 10k miles
My payments will be $245 with taxes rolled into payments and $0 down.
