Injen MR Short Ram Air Intake Install!
11-29-11, 05:32 AM
#31
I love the climate there and love some of the state is gorgeous. They have draconian car laws ......period. Worst state in the world for car ownership. Pecker checkers everywhere.
BEST place to live in the world that's a serious stretch. You need to get out some......
Its 65 here.......much better turbo weather.......
12-07-11, 02:36 PM
#34
Here's the dyno data I received today from Injen.
Hmm. Different from what was advertised. -shrugs-
On another thought....
I just got my car back from Tanabe for test fitting of exhaust, coil overs, and strut brace.
Strut brace fit, but they took it off for some reason. Exhaust had to be custom fitted, they are bringing that back with them to Japan to fabricate a different exhaust (the JDM exhaust tips are different from the USDM exhaust tips, at least that's what I was told).
S-0C coliovers fit!
Write up + pics to follow!
Hmm. Different from what was advertised. -shrugs-
On another thought....
I just got my car back from Tanabe for test fitting of exhaust, coil overs, and strut brace.
Strut brace fit, but they took it off for some reason. Exhaust had to be custom fitted, they are bringing that back with them to Japan to fabricate a different exhaust (the JDM exhaust tips are different from the USDM exhaust tips, at least that's what I was told).
S-0C coliovers fit!
Write up + pics to follow!
12-07-11, 10:34 PM
#36
I'm assuming they entered certification mode.
Certification mode is a mode that disables TRAC and VSC in order to keep the ICE running. I'm assuming the RPMS don't kick in until around 3000 since that's when the ICE begins to run optimally. Before that, it's the electrical motor kicking in.
It's not recommended to run certification mode outside of testing since it disables the rev limiter for the electric motors and could cause them to blow if over revved.
Certification mode is a mode that disables TRAC and VSC in order to keep the ICE running. I'm assuming the RPMS don't kick in until around 3000 since that's when the ICE begins to run optimally. Before that, it's the electrical motor kicking in.
It's not recommended to run certification mode outside of testing since it disables the rev limiter for the electric motors and could cause them to blow if over revved.
12-07-11, 10:34 PM
#37
MAINTENANCE MODE
(2WD for measuring Exhaust Gas)
- Inspection of ignition timing etc. when performing engine maintenance, idle speed exhaust emissions testing (CO, HC), etc.
- Tests using a speedometer tester, two-wheel chassis dynamometer, etc.
- Keeps the engine idling when park (P) is selected
- Cancels traction control
CERTIFICATION MODE
(2WD for cutting TRC)
- Tests using a speedometer tester, two-wheel chassis dynamometer, etc.
- Cancels traction control
The manual does go on to give a bunch of warnings:
(3) Cancel inspection mode immediately after completion of inspection.
NOTICE: Driving the vehicle without canceling inspection mode may damage the transaxle.
NOTICE:
Do not perform rapid starting or quick acceleration on a speedometer tester. If rapid starting or quick acceleration is performed on a speedometer tester, damage may occur to the transaxle.
NOTICE:
Sudden acceleration or deceleration of the vehicle on a chassis dynamometer under minimal load may damage the transaxle.
I don't see how that's the case ... but perhaps, like other people theorized, the traction control is there to prevent wheel hop and shock to the drivetrain. It does give the warning several times, so use with caution.
You have been warned:
Maintenance Mode:
Perform the following steps from (1) through (4) in 60 seconds.
(1) Turn the power switch on (IG).
(2) Fully depress the accelerator pedal twice with park (P) selected.
(3) Fully depress the accelerator pedal twice with neutral (N) selected.
(4) Fully depress the accelerator pedal twice with park (P) selected.
(5) Check that "MAINTENANCE MODE" is displayed on the multi-information display.
(6) Start the engine by turning the power switch on (READY) while depressing the brake pedal.
HINT:
The idle speed in maintenance mode is approximately 1000 rpm with park (P) selected. The engine speed increases to 1500 rpm when the accelerator pedal is depressed midway with park (P) selected. When the accelerator pedal is depressed more than midway, or when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, the engine speed increases to approximately 2500 rpm.
Certification Mode:
Perform the following steps from (1) through (4) in 60 seconds.
(1) Turn the power switch on (IG).
(2) Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times with park (P) selected.
(3) Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times with neutral (N) selected.
(4) Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times with park (P) selected.
(5) Check that "CERTIFICATION MODE" is displayed on the multi-
information display.
(6) Start the engine by turning the power switch on (READY) while depressing the brake pedal.
To disable both modes, just turn the car off.
(2WD for measuring Exhaust Gas)
- Inspection of ignition timing etc. when performing engine maintenance, idle speed exhaust emissions testing (CO, HC), etc.
- Tests using a speedometer tester, two-wheel chassis dynamometer, etc.
- Keeps the engine idling when park (P) is selected
- Cancels traction control
CERTIFICATION MODE
(2WD for cutting TRC)
- Tests using a speedometer tester, two-wheel chassis dynamometer, etc.
- Cancels traction control
The manual does go on to give a bunch of warnings:
(3) Cancel inspection mode immediately after completion of inspection.
NOTICE: Driving the vehicle without canceling inspection mode may damage the transaxle.
NOTICE:
Do not perform rapid starting or quick acceleration on a speedometer tester. If rapid starting or quick acceleration is performed on a speedometer tester, damage may occur to the transaxle.
NOTICE:
Sudden acceleration or deceleration of the vehicle on a chassis dynamometer under minimal load may damage the transaxle.
I don't see how that's the case ... but perhaps, like other people theorized, the traction control is there to prevent wheel hop and shock to the drivetrain. It does give the warning several times, so use with caution.
You have been warned:
Maintenance Mode:
Perform the following steps from (1) through (4) in 60 seconds.
(1) Turn the power switch on (IG).
(2) Fully depress the accelerator pedal twice with park (P) selected.
(3) Fully depress the accelerator pedal twice with neutral (N) selected.
(4) Fully depress the accelerator pedal twice with park (P) selected.
(5) Check that "MAINTENANCE MODE" is displayed on the multi-information display.
(6) Start the engine by turning the power switch on (READY) while depressing the brake pedal.
HINT:
The idle speed in maintenance mode is approximately 1000 rpm with park (P) selected. The engine speed increases to 1500 rpm when the accelerator pedal is depressed midway with park (P) selected. When the accelerator pedal is depressed more than midway, or when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed, the engine speed increases to approximately 2500 rpm.
Certification Mode:
Perform the following steps from (1) through (4) in 60 seconds.
(1) Turn the power switch on (IG).
(2) Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times with park (P) selected.
(3) Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times with neutral (N) selected.
(4) Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times with park (P) selected.
(5) Check that "CERTIFICATION MODE" is displayed on the multi-
information display.
(6) Start the engine by turning the power switch on (READY) while depressing the brake pedal.
To disable both modes, just turn the car off.
12-08-11, 09:49 AM
#38
Matt, can you please interpret the dyno graph to others who don't read these on a regular basis? I.e. which #'s are the actual findings? I see the max HP & torque listed in the upper left, but those #'s don't match the #'s on the graph?
12-09-11, 06:23 PM
#39
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jimmy: The numbers do match what is posted on the dyno chart.
The blue line(s) are the "baseline run" where they strapped Matt's car down and ran it at full throttle between ~2900-5100 rpm. These lines represent how much power and torque is being put down to the wheels as the car goes through it's RPM range. Horsepower scale on the left (even though it's not an actual number... but I can explain that later if you want), and torque is represented on the right. The upper blue line that is more flat is the torque curve. The lower blue line that is constantly increasing is the horsepower curve. Trace your finger or mouse over to the left on the bottom curve to see power at different rpms, and to the right for the upper curve. i.e. It looks like Matt's car is putting down 100 horsepower at the wheels at around 4250 rpm.
The red line(s) represent the cars horsepower/torque after the Injen intake install. It looks like there is a solid 2-3 horsepower and almost 5 ft lbs of torque gain through the middle of the RPM range.
Dyno graphs that look like this mean the part actually works well. It increased the power/torque across the entire RPM range and didn't lose power down low (very common) or only give gains at the very top.
P.S. As a caveat... this chart was given by the manufacturer of the part. It's super easy to tweak a dyno to SHOW increases without any actual changes. This is why it's important to get a second opinion from another dyno that's not related to the parts manufacturer from a 3rd party that has nothing to gain from the results.
The blue line(s) are the "baseline run" where they strapped Matt's car down and ran it at full throttle between ~2900-5100 rpm. These lines represent how much power and torque is being put down to the wheels as the car goes through it's RPM range. Horsepower scale on the left (even though it's not an actual number... but I can explain that later if you want), and torque is represented on the right. The upper blue line that is more flat is the torque curve. The lower blue line that is constantly increasing is the horsepower curve. Trace your finger or mouse over to the left on the bottom curve to see power at different rpms, and to the right for the upper curve. i.e. It looks like Matt's car is putting down 100 horsepower at the wheels at around 4250 rpm.
The red line(s) represent the cars horsepower/torque after the Injen intake install. It looks like there is a solid 2-3 horsepower and almost 5 ft lbs of torque gain through the middle of the RPM range.
Dyno graphs that look like this mean the part actually works well. It increased the power/torque across the entire RPM range and didn't lose power down low (very common) or only give gains at the very top.
P.S. As a caveat... this chart was given by the manufacturer of the part. It's super easy to tweak a dyno to SHOW increases without any actual changes. This is why it's important to get a second opinion from another dyno that's not related to the parts manufacturer from a 3rd party that has nothing to gain from the results.
Last edited by Bane; 12-09-11 at 06:27 PM.
12-12-11, 05:20 AM
#42
jimmy: The numbers do match what is posted on the dyno chart.
The blue line(s) are the "baseline run" where they strapped Matt's car down and ran it at full throttle between ~2900-5100 rpm. These lines represent how much power and torque is being put down to the wheels as the car goes through it's RPM range. Horsepower scale on the left (even though it's not an actual number... but I can explain that later if you want), and torque is represented on the right. The upper blue line that is more flat is the torque curve. The lower blue line that is constantly increasing is the horsepower curve. Trace your finger or mouse over to the left on the bottom curve to see power at different rpms, and to the right for the upper curve. i.e. It looks like Matt's car is putting down 100 horsepower at the wheels at around 4250 rpm.
The red line(s) represent the cars horsepower/torque after the Injen intake install. It looks like there is a solid 2-3 horsepower and almost 5 ft lbs of torque gain through the middle of the RPM range.
Dyno graphs that look like this mean the part actually works well. It increased the power/torque across the entire RPM range and didn't lose power down low (very common) or only give gains at the very top.
P.S. As a caveat... this chart was given by the manufacturer of the part. It's super easy to tweak a dyno to SHOW increases without any actual changes. This is why it's important to get a second opinion from another dyno that's not related to the parts manufacturer from a 3rd party that has nothing to gain from the results.
The blue line(s) are the "baseline run" where they strapped Matt's car down and ran it at full throttle between ~2900-5100 rpm. These lines represent how much power and torque is being put down to the wheels as the car goes through it's RPM range. Horsepower scale on the left (even though it's not an actual number... but I can explain that later if you want), and torque is represented on the right. The upper blue line that is more flat is the torque curve. The lower blue line that is constantly increasing is the horsepower curve. Trace your finger or mouse over to the left on the bottom curve to see power at different rpms, and to the right for the upper curve. i.e. It looks like Matt's car is putting down 100 horsepower at the wheels at around 4250 rpm.
The red line(s) represent the cars horsepower/torque after the Injen intake install. It looks like there is a solid 2-3 horsepower and almost 5 ft lbs of torque gain through the middle of the RPM range.
Dyno graphs that look like this mean the part actually works well. It increased the power/torque across the entire RPM range and didn't lose power down low (very common) or only give gains at the very top.
P.S. As a caveat... this chart was given by the manufacturer of the part. It's super easy to tweak a dyno to SHOW increases without any actual changes. This is why it's important to get a second opinion from another dyno that's not related to the parts manufacturer from a 3rd party that has nothing to gain from the results.
I remember tuning my Supra and a Vette owner just came off the dyno bragging about his numbers. (Vette shop)
My tuner looked at the sheet and later told me the numbers were tweaked. He then used corrected numbers still good but not what the owner thought. He never found out as far as I know. This goes on all the time to sell parts or services.
But its relatively easy to make things better or worse.
01-09-12, 01:24 PM
#43
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I wonder what the numbers were on the SC CT200h they had at the NY auto show? As you never hear about it
I wonder if it even was funtional? It sure looked nice, but it would seem to be complex to get it to play nice with a hybrid system.... anybody know anything?
I wonder if it even was funtional? It sure looked nice, but it would seem to be complex to get it to play nice with a hybrid system.... anybody know anything?
01-10-12, 10:10 AM
#44
