New Product RR-Racing ISF ECU Tune.... FINALLY!!!
02-03-16, 11:47 PM
#631
Big thanks RSXiMUS for the detailed initial impressions. 
Good to hear from someone other than RR-Racing who has had a few hours of good driving conditions where you could open it up etc.
I'm sold on getting mine done once I've finished off my other mods that are underway.
Having just installed my RR-Racing titanium intake, I continue to be super impressed with all of the great products Rafi, Simon, and the team offer us.
The F community are lucky to have you guys.
Can't wait for the next level! RR-Racing S/C kit anyone?!
Good to hear from someone other than RR-Racing who has had a few hours of good driving conditions where you could open it up etc.
I'm sold on getting mine done once I've finished off my other mods that are underway.
Having just installed my RR-Racing titanium intake, I continue to be super impressed with all of the great products Rafi, Simon, and the team offer us.
The F community are lucky to have you guys.
Can't wait for the next level! RR-Racing S/C kit anyone?!
02-04-16, 02:54 AM
#633
Sponsor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Is this tune reversible? Will it pass smog granted the cats are in place when plugging in the reader? Lastly, if the consumer buys the tune for catless version and adds a cat in the future will the tune need to be modified to account for the cats being in place?
Sorry to ask questions, but I am really interested in this tune, just deciding on which version to buy as I am unsure if I will stay catless or catted..
Sorry to ask questions, but I am really interested in this tune, just deciding on which version to buy as I am unsure if I will stay catless or catted..
We have tested cars that are fully catted, and fully catless. So far, none of the testing indicates that we need a specific tune for catless vs catted (which would require tune upgrades).
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02-04-16, 07:12 AM
#634
Rafi now that rpm increase is done, are Is there any plans to remove the speed limiter I know that several members here are interested in that as well reason being there are a few of us who would like to take it to top speed runs and having the speed limiter remove would be fantastic.
Second question how is the 80 mm throttle body going? how are the results looking so far and what sort of power increases do you think you can gain by going with the larger throttle body?
Thanks
David
Second question how is the 80 mm throttle body going? how are the results looking so far and what sort of power increases do you think you can gain by going with the larger throttle body?
Thanks
David
02-04-16, 07:21 AM
#635
Pole Position
He mentioned a couple pages back that they didn't gain any appreciable results with the 80mm throttle body and that they were going to shelve the upgrade I think? You would have to go back about 5 pages +/- to find out exactly what he said.
02-04-16, 09:08 AM
#636
Rafi now that rpm increase is done, are Is there any plans to remove the speed limiter I know that several members here are interested in that as well reason being there are a few of us who would like to take it to top speed runs and having the speed limiter remove would be fantastic.
Second question how is the 80 mm throttle body going? how are the results looking so far and what sort of power increases do you think you can gain by going with the larger throttle body?
Thanks
David
Second question how is the 80 mm throttle body going? how are the results looking so far and what sort of power increases do you think you can gain by going with the larger throttle body?
Thanks
David
02-04-16, 09:34 AM
#637
Bolt-on intake and exhaust mods WILL NOT increase the motor's ability to breath further into the rpm range. Neither will a tune. These mods, assuming they work as advertised, will only elevate the power band, not lengthen it.
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
Last edited by XutvJet; 02-04-16 at 09:39 AM.
02-04-16, 09:49 AM
#638
Bolt-on intake and exhaust mods WILL NOT increase the motor's ability to breath further into the rpm range. Neither will a tune. These mods, assuming they work as advertised, will only elevate the power band, not lengthen it.
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
02-04-16, 10:22 AM
#639
Bolt-on intake and exhaust mods WILL NOT increase the motor's ability to breath further into the rpm range. Neither will a tune. These mods, assuming they work as advertised, will only elevate the power band, not lengthen it.
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
02-04-16, 12:21 PM
#642
Bolt-on intake and exhaust mods WILL NOT increase the motor's ability to breath further into the rpm range. Neither will a tune. These mods, assuming they work as advertised, will only elevate the power band, not lengthen it.
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
The ONLY way to increase the point at which peak power is achieved is to dig into the heads, revise the cam lift/duration, change intake runner design, etc.
I would heed the warning about raising the limiter. These motor's aren't making power above ~6,000-6,200rpms thus you should be shifting at that point or slightly beyond and definitely not at the 6,800rpm fuel cut. It's just wasted time and it will hurt 1/4 mile ET/MPH. Sure, by the seat of the pants it feels like the motor is still pulling above 6,000rpms, but the reality is power is slowly bleeding off. Less power = less acceleration. Simple as that.
If you must increase the limiter, say for road racing where revving it out longer is more beneficial/safer than shifting, then I wouldn't raise it more that 200rpms.
With that said, I can't believe no one as yet to do a simple gear by gear ideal shift point calculation for 1/4 mile performance. I think many of you would be surprised by what the ideal shift points really are. By just eyeballing it, I'm seeing the following:
1-2: 6600rpms
2-3: 6400rpms
3-4: 6300rpms
4-5: 6200rpms
If you shift right where the powerband peaks, you will fall back way lower in the powerband in the next gear, slowing you down substantially.
Go check out a stock AP1 S2000 dyno chart, they rev to 9000 but the power drops off after 8k. By your logic, you should shift an AP1 S2000 at 8000rpms?
I also have an S2000, well mine is an AP2 but I've driven AP1's countless times and you will notice the car will be tremendously slower if you don't tap the rev limiter every shift even if that's not where the peak power occurs.
02-04-16, 12:31 PM
#643
You're saying if he would have shifted at 6000rpm he would have pulled a better time?
I'm really curious to see what an ISF would pull if it shifted at 6000-6200 rpms like you suggest, probably run 14s.
