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Yellowing headlight problem

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Old 03-28-15, 10:42 AM
  #16  
mmarshall
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I've had some people tell me that liquid SCRATCH-OUT works very well on old yellowed or crazed plastic headlight covers....others, no difference. Not guaranteed to work, but it might be worth a try...and it doesn't cost much.

I partially blame the automakers for this.....IMO, they should be using hardened-glass covers instead of plastic. Plastic is probably lighter and cheaper.


Last edited by mmarshall; 03-28-15 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 03-28-15, 12:28 PM
  #17  
UDel
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Originally Posted by GSteg
A lot of problems people are having with opti-lens is the result of prep work. After wetsanding with fine sandpaper, you would use a polish to get it looking clear again. What most don't realize is that the polish contains oil, and as long as there is something between the plastic lense and opti-lens, durability will be an issue. You need to remove all traces of oil/contaminants, and you don't remove that by taking a towel and wiping it day. Even car soap will leave some sort of residue behind.

I've had 3 instances where someone came to me because opti-lens (they applied it) didn't last more than a month. I started fresh and removed everything on the lens and re-applied the coating. I see these cars once every couple of months and they are still free from oxidation.
No problem with prep when I did it. Pre washed headlights, clayed, wet sanded, polished, washed all oils off with alcohol/water solution, then just distilled water again with a fresh towel a hour or so before I applied it. Did it 3 times just on my car with same basic results, same with most others I have done that lost their protective coating and yellowed.

I have read complaints about it on detailing forums that it was not lasting very long, only a few months which was my experience. For cars that spend most of the time in a garage/out of the sun it will last longer. A rep from the company even addressed some complaints saying durability depended on headlight shape, exposure to sunlight/weather, and may need to be re applied more often which is not what many who paid $70 for it wanted to hear who were expected something to last much longer for that price.

Last edited by UDel; 03-28-15 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 03-28-15, 02:15 PM
  #18  
pman6
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Originally Posted by UDel
No problem with prep when I did it. Pre washed headlights, clayed, wet sanded, polished, washed all oils off with alcohol/water solution, then just distilled water again with a fresh towel a hour or so before I applied it. Did it 3 times just on my car with same basic results, same with most others I have done that lost their protective coating and yellowed.

I have read complaints .
perhaps your alcohol/water mix was too diluted? I think you're supposed to use straight 91% alcohol.

A few people on forums have said it lasts for years. One guy even had it fail early on one headlight, but last for years on the opposite headlight.

so sometimes it's the prep, sometimes it's the application. Who knows.

There's even one review where a dude does half-half spar and optilens and puts it on the roof to bake in the hawaii sun. The optilens half is still clear.

nevertheless, I'm reluctant to buy it until they come in cheaper packages or there are more long term reviews.
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Old 03-29-15, 12:10 AM
  #19  
Aron9000
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Originally Posted by mmarshall
I partially blame the automakers for this.....IMO, they should be using hardened-glass covers instead of plastic. Plastic is probably lighter and cheaper.

I had a 1991 Cadillac Brougham and a 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood that had glass housings for the headlights.

I must say it was nice that neither of these cars suffered from the dreaded "yellowing/fading/clouding" of modern headlights.

All that being said, the standard beams in that 1991 Brougham sucked ***, I'm pretty sure the 80-89 cars had better lights with those square sealed beams, two on each side.
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