SC300: Good Buy?
#1
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SC300: Good Buy?
Hello all, I'm a new member trying to get an idea if this sc300 I found is a good deal. Visually: the car looks very clean. Its a black exterior, with a black interior that is nice and tidy. It has a clean engine bay, and the paint has a few flaws, but nothing serious. The Mechanics: I have yet to take a test drive due to one of the tires being flat, because it has been sitting around for about a month (so I'm told). Which leads me to the largest problem, the odometer (its digital). Every time the key is turned in the ignition the miles reset. Not sure how to solve this or if the ecu has even been keeping track. The Carfax says it had 143,000 miles... About 4 months ago. The Price: $6200. Here is the link. http://southernautoexchange.org/mobile/view/1563
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Lexus Fanatic
Welcome to CL as a new poster.
Though it doesn't guarantee that the engine in that particular car won't have problems, the Toyota/Lexus 3.0L in-line 6, given any kind of reasonable care and service, has a strong reputation for being almost bulletproof. (I had one myself in an IS300). I'm a little more concerned about the odometer, though. If, for any reason, the odometer, as is, does not represent (or closely represent) the car's true mileage (which sometimes happens if a new speedometer/odometer assembly is installed), then, by Federal law, the mileage at which the assembly was replaced has to be represented with a sticker, so that the true mileage can be ascertained. Unfortunately, that sometimes lowers the car's value, because some people are leery of buying a used car where the odometer does not represent the true-mileage, even if it hasn't been tampered with in any way and meets Federal standards.
Though it doesn't guarantee that the engine in that particular car won't have problems, the Toyota/Lexus 3.0L in-line 6, given any kind of reasonable care and service, has a strong reputation for being almost bulletproof. (I had one myself in an IS300). I'm a little more concerned about the odometer, though. If, for any reason, the odometer, as is, does not represent (or closely represent) the car's true mileage (which sometimes happens if a new speedometer/odometer assembly is installed), then, by Federal law, the mileage at which the assembly was replaced has to be represented with a sticker, so that the true mileage can be ascertained. Unfortunately, that sometimes lowers the car's value, because some people are leery of buying a used car where the odometer does not represent the true-mileage, even if it hasn't been tampered with in any way and meets Federal standards.
#4
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Welcome to CL as a new poster.
Though it doesn't guarantee that the engine in that particular car won't have problems, the Toyota/Lexus 3.0L in-line 6, given any kind of reasonable care and service, has a strong reputation for being almost bulletproof. (I had one myself in an IS300). I'm a little more concerned about the odometer, though. If, for any reason, the odometer, as is, does not represent (or closely represent) the car's true mileage (which sometimes happens if a new speedometer/odometer assembly is installed), then, by Federal law, the mileage at which the assembly was replaced has to be represented with a sticker, so that the true mileage can be ascertained. Unfortunately, that sometimes lowers the car's value, because some people are leery of buying a used car where the odometer does not represent the true-mileage, even if it hasn't been tampered with in any way and meets Federal standards.
Though it doesn't guarantee that the engine in that particular car won't have problems, the Toyota/Lexus 3.0L in-line 6, given any kind of reasonable care and service, has a strong reputation for being almost bulletproof. (I had one myself in an IS300). I'm a little more concerned about the odometer, though. If, for any reason, the odometer, as is, does not represent (or closely represent) the car's true mileage (which sometimes happens if a new speedometer/odometer assembly is installed), then, by Federal law, the mileage at which the assembly was replaced has to be represented with a sticker, so that the true mileage can be ascertained. Unfortunately, that sometimes lowers the car's value, because some people are leery of buying a used car where the odometer does not represent the true-mileage, even if it hasn't been tampered with in any way and meets Federal standards.
#5
Honestly with that odometer problem, I'd offer them at most $5k with taxes, out the door. That's considering the body is straight and you don't see any signs of a respray or collision damage. Check all the shut lines between the hood, fenders, doors, etc. Look for signs of overspray on the trim, under the hood, under the car, wrinkled metal under the hood, on the underside of the chassis.
Honestly from a shady used car lot with a broken odometer, that is one of those cars I'd be EXTREMELY WEARY about, I wouldn't buy it unless I had it on a lift to verify it had never been hit, all the body gaps line up, there is no sign of a wreck, no sign of overspray, filler, etc. Even then, like i said, $5k max out the door
#6
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I would plan to spend about $600-1k on service with this car straight off the bat if you don't have any sort of records for it. I'm talking timing belt, water pump, idler pully, coolant change, automatic tranny fluid change, rear diff fluid change, oil change, serpintine belt, brake inspection, suspension check, does it have decent tires that are less than 6-7 years old on it?
Honestly with that odometer problem, I'd offer them at most $5k with taxes, out the door. That's considering the body is straight and you don't see any signs of a respray or collision damage. Check all the shut lines between the hood, fenders, doors, etc. Look for signs of overspray on the trim, under the hood, under the car, wrinkled metal under the hood, on the underside of the chassis.
Honestly from a shady used car lot with a broken odometer, that is one of those cars I'd be EXTREMELY WEARY about, I wouldn't buy it unless I had it on a lift to verify it had never been hit, all the body gaps line up, there is no sign of a wreck, no sign of overspray, filler, etc. Even then, like i said, $5k max out the door
Honestly with that odometer problem, I'd offer them at most $5k with taxes, out the door. That's considering the body is straight and you don't see any signs of a respray or collision damage. Check all the shut lines between the hood, fenders, doors, etc. Look for signs of overspray on the trim, under the hood, under the car, wrinkled metal under the hood, on the underside of the chassis.
Honestly from a shady used car lot with a broken odometer, that is one of those cars I'd be EXTREMELY WEARY about, I wouldn't buy it unless I had it on a lift to verify it had never been hit, all the body gaps line up, there is no sign of a wreck, no sign of overspray, filler, etc. Even then, like i said, $5k max out the door
#7
That's what I was expecting. I haven't done any negotiating yet, 5k is the most I was going to offer them. I've been pretty in depth with the car too, the VIN on the fenders match up, I didn't see any gaps or over spray. It will need tires off the bat, but they are less than 6 or 7 years old. I checked the oil, it looked relatively new, they put a new battery in it as well. The trunk does not stay up for what ever reason. It will need new brakes, and judging on how rusty they are, the car has been sitting there for a while.
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