ScReaper

hi im looking to buy a gsx but the car turns off below 2k rpm so i have to keep pushing on the gas a bit the guy told me the maf is dead not working is there anything wrong with the maf, as well the car dies after 30min does the alternator going bad or is completely gone.

their simple fixes but what u guys think is it worth it.

i didnt want to go thru the trouble of making a profile in the dsm web site.

msgs350

iTrader: (2)

MAF? Mass Airflow Sensor? Im not sure about the Eclipse but i had this same issue with my 2000 Jeep Grand Chrokee V8 and the problem was an IAC ( Idle Air Contol Valve). I replaced it and it solved the issue (something the Jeep dealrship couldn't figure out after $1000).

Koma

iTrader: (3)

Eclipse's are notorious for having crank walk and also for being beat on and tuned.

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q...hatiscrankwalk

2002GGPIS3

Welcome to the world of DSM"S. All the info you seek can be found here www.dsmtalk.com

I used to own a 2G eclipse turbo and as much of a PITA it was, I still would like to find a nice 2g GSX to mod someday.

bad co

mmarshall

I never owned a 2Gen Eclipse (the Eagle Talon is mechanically the same car), but I test-drove several of them, looked at a number of them over the years, and a close friend of mine owned a used GSX for a few years (which I drove on several occasions, and helped him work on it). I do not recommend these cars, as they were, IMO, poorly-built, and Consumer Reports gave them sub-par reliability ratings as well.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Sometimes you have to look past the way they were stock...

I personally built a 500 wheel hp AWD monster (2.0 liter), drove it daily with zero reliability issues... A buddy of mines makes 700 whp... (stroker 2.3 liter)

I have owned a total of 7 DSM's in my life, and obviously been in the know for a long time (my first one was in 1995). I have never seen or known anyone that had a clear cut case of crank walk. It's my opinion that most crank walk blamed failures were actually poor tuning and simply pushing the engine past its injectors/turbo system... Crankwalk should have nothing to do with how much power the car is putting down - yet, the more power you made on one of those, the more likely you were for an engine failure, imagine that...

Do they have their problems, sure - they were a $20k car, $25k with everything, and now they are a minimum of 12 years old (the last year was '99).

If I were to ever make it back to the states, I'd love to locate one and build it up again... By that time, it will probably be almost impossible, and I'd do the EVO instead...


to the OP: so long as you are somewhat mechanically inclined, the cars are relatively easy to take car of and fix... typical issues are usually electronics related, such as the MAF... based on the symptoms, I would say a MAF would be the first course of action I would take (though I would plug in a scanner and see what is really going on first)... The other potential issues include the crank or cam angle sensor, you may have one or the other going bad... Cam angle sensor is pretty easy to swap, crank not so easy... One last potential issue, and was already mentioned, is the idle air control motor... this is probably the most common failure on all Mitsubishi's of that era - the motor sticks closed and can't provide enough air to the engine... there is an easy way to check this though - on the throttle body, there is a screw - it is covered by a black plastic plug from the factory, though this may be gone - loosen this screw with the car running and see if it changes anything - do NOT lose this screw... if it starts to idle better, or at all, then the IAC is your issue... Personally, I disconnected the IAC, and adjusted idle with that screw - downside to this is that you have to set the idle higher than normal to compensate for slowing down at stoplights and if you use the a/c, it will change the idle... I set my idle at 1100 RPM and never had an issue...

The other thing to look out for is the timing belt - when was it changed last? On DSM's, it is required every 60k miles, and if it breaks or slips a tooth, you WILL end up with damage to the valvetrain... it is relatively easy as well, though tricky if you've never done it...

when I got out of the game, the best thing about DSM's was that parts were super cheap and very easy to get a hold of...

my list of DSM's:
1995 Talon Tsi
1992 Eclipse GS
1996 Eclipse GS-T
1991 Talon Tsi AWD
1997 Talon Esi (this thing was a dog)
1997 Eclipse GS-T
1991 Talon Tsi AWD

and a closely related brother - 1993 3000GT