Article about how to PROPERLY break in...
09-29-06, 06:45 AM
#1
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Article about how to PROPERLY break in...
"Food for thought:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Not saying that this is the right way to do it, but it's something you should at least be aware of during the break-in period...
Found this on some other Thread and was posted by "Irishman".
Quesiton:
1) I read the article but still a little confused? How do you open upto full throttle? By listening or looking at speed or something else??
2) How do you warm it up as SOON as you walk out of the dealership?? Just floor it couple of times until it hits 60mph??
-Thanks
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Not saying that this is the right way to do it, but it's something you should at least be aware of during the break-in period...
Found this on some other Thread and was posted by "Irishman".
Quesiton:
1) I read the article but still a little confused? How do you open upto full throttle? By listening or looking at speed or something else??
2) How do you warm it up as SOON as you walk out of the dealership?? Just floor it couple of times until it hits 60mph??
-Thanks
09-29-06, 06:56 AM
#2
Its too hard to prove for either side of the break in arguement, when you make engines they arent going to produce teh same power despite building with the same parts, some will be stronger than others for some reason or another. And if you test break in with these engines how do you know the extra power wasnt due to the lucky assembly of an engine
I just believe in a moderate break in, not redlining it but not babying it either, I just drove it normal when I got it
The guy also mentioned the first 20 miles is a narrow window for break in, my car had 20 miles at the dealership when I bought it, oops?
Metals and manafacturing tolerances have improved greatly over the decades, back then probably break in for a longer period of time was more important, but nowdays with advances in metals and manfacturing techniques, I dont think its that important anymore, besides the car is dynoed 1-2 times from the factory already and test driven on a bumpy road (to check for rattles)
I just believe in a moderate break in, not redlining it but not babying it either, I just drove it normal when I got it
The guy also mentioned the first 20 miles is a narrow window for break in, my car had 20 miles at the dealership when I bought it, oops?
Metals and manafacturing tolerances have improved greatly over the decades, back then probably break in for a longer period of time was more important, but nowdays with advances in metals and manfacturing techniques, I dont think its that important anymore, besides the car is dynoed 1-2 times from the factory already and test driven on a bumpy road (to check for rattles)
09-29-06, 06:59 AM
#3
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[b]
Quesiton:
1) I read the article but still a little confused? How do you open upto full throttle? By listening or looking at speed or something else??
By "Full Throttle," they mean flooring it. Not sure if you can get WOT (wide open throttle) with the Lexus DBW (drive by wire) system if the car isn't warmed up yet. The idea is to put as much strain on the engine in a controlled manner, i.e. letting it rev very high and allow the pistons to wind down, or engine brake, apparently in order to allow the piston rings to seal as quickly as possible.
2) How do you warm it up as SOON as you walk out of the dealership?? Just floor it couple of times until it hits 60mph??
DO NOT DO THIS. THIS IS TERRIBLE FOR YOUR CAR. Baby the car until the engine temp stabilizes. THEN open it up.
Some general advice, other things to avoid: shifting from Reverse to Drive (or vice-versa) without coming to a full and complete stop, starting and shutting off the engine before it's completely warmed up.
Quesiton:
1) I read the article but still a little confused? How do you open upto full throttle? By listening or looking at speed or something else??
By "Full Throttle," they mean flooring it. Not sure if you can get WOT (wide open throttle) with the Lexus DBW (drive by wire) system if the car isn't warmed up yet. The idea is to put as much strain on the engine in a controlled manner, i.e. letting it rev very high and allow the pistons to wind down, or engine brake, apparently in order to allow the piston rings to seal as quickly as possible.
2) How do you warm it up as SOON as you walk out of the dealership?? Just floor it couple of times until it hits 60mph??
DO NOT DO THIS. THIS IS TERRIBLE FOR YOUR CAR. Baby the car until the engine temp stabilizes. THEN open it up.
Some general advice, other things to avoid: shifting from Reverse to Drive (or vice-versa) without coming to a full and complete stop, starting and shutting off the engine before it's completely warmed up.
Good luck, and enjoy!
09-29-06, 08:34 AM
#6
Lexus Champion
I've seen several threads on this article. While many disagree and suggest following the owner's manual (really can't argue with that), no one has really come up with concrete facts or reasons to disprove the author's position.
09-29-06, 08:45 AM
#7
Lexus Champion
yeah i seen that website numerous of times on motorcycle forums, simply because bikers dont want to wait the 1k mile before redline the engine. either way (manual or "faster way") it is your call in how to break in your new engine. but i rather choose to break in my motorcycle and car according to the manual because those are the people that built the machine, so if it ever f-up, i have somewhere to turn. now try blamming the guy that started the rapip break-in when your rings dont seal right!! good luck
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09-29-06, 08:45 AM
#8
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I've done it Motoman's way for about 17 years. It works if you want to make power and not burn oil. It works best when you get to fire a virgin engine. The last time I did a factory recommended break-in, the engine burned a quart every 2000 miles. I wasn't very happy about that.
09-29-06, 08:48 AM
#9
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
yeah i seen that website numerous of times on motorcycle forums, simply because bikers dont want to wait the 1k mile before redline the engine. either way (manual or "faster way") it is your call in how to break in your new engine. but i rather choose to break in my motorcycle and car according to the manual because those are the people that built the machine, so if it ever f-up, i have somewhere to turn. now try blamming the guy that started the rapip break-in when your rings dont seal right!! good luck
BTW, I cut my teeth building road race motorcycle engines.
09-29-06, 11:07 AM
#10
I redline every new car I get right out of the dealership lot and do MANY subsequent 0-60 and redline runs for the first few days/weeks just cause I like to play with my new toy... Never really thought it would "help" the engine, I just never believed it would harm it (Yes, I believe the need for break-ins ended many years ago)...
But the proof is in the pudding... I never break-in an new engine, I abuse the engine right from the start, I change my oil every 10-15k miles on every car I've had and have never had an engine problem in any car I've ever owned, and I've had cars last over 100k miles no problem...
Heck, my 2001 Acura CL Type S had over 82,000 miles and I redlined that thing daily... I changed the oil roughly every 20k-25k miles (mobil 1, though) and did at LEAST 100 top speed (150MPH) runs... The car ran smooth as butter the entire time, never had a SINGLE failure...
But the proof is in the pudding... I never break-in an new engine, I abuse the engine right from the start, I change my oil every 10-15k miles on every car I've had and have never had an engine problem in any car I've ever owned, and I've had cars last over 100k miles no problem...
Heck, my 2001 Acura CL Type S had over 82,000 miles and I redlined that thing daily... I changed the oil roughly every 20k-25k miles (mobil 1, though) and did at LEAST 100 top speed (150MPH) runs... The car ran smooth as butter the entire time, never had a SINGLE failure...
09-29-06, 12:44 PM
#13
09-29-06, 06:09 PM
#14
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Couple of thoughts...
The cars that I test drive do seem to always perform better (faster) than the cars I end up buying. I remember test driving my first 550 and it spun the tires into second gear - with an automatic mind you.
My car (broken in per BMW specs) will not do that and does not feel near as fast as the inital 550 I test drove. I have no concrete proof here - only the seat of my pants.
The author seems to have proof however - not necessarily scientific, but proof none the less.
HOWEVER, we are only looking at the engine here - something tells me that there are other components (trans/differential) that do better with an easier break in - just a thought.
The cars that I test drive do seem to always perform better (faster) than the cars I end up buying. I remember test driving my first 550 and it spun the tires into second gear - with an automatic mind you.
My car (broken in per BMW specs) will not do that and does not feel near as fast as the inital 550 I test drove. I have no concrete proof here - only the seat of my pants.
The author seems to have proof however - not necessarily scientific, but proof none the less.
HOWEVER, we are only looking at the engine here - something tells me that there are other components (trans/differential) that do better with an easier break in - just a thought.
09-29-06, 06:32 PM
#15
Couple of thoughts...
The cars that I test drive do seem to always perform better (faster) than the cars I end up buying. I remember test driving my first 550 and it spun the tires into second gear - with an automatic mind you.
My car (broken in per BMW specs) will not do that and does not feel near as fast as the inital 550 I test drove. I have no concrete proof here - only the seat of my pants.
The author seems to have proof however - not necessarily scientific, but proof none the less.
HOWEVER, we are only looking at the engine here - something tells me that there are other components (trans/differential) that do better with an easier break in - just a thought.
The cars that I test drive do seem to always perform better (faster) than the cars I end up buying. I remember test driving my first 550 and it spun the tires into second gear - with an automatic mind you.
My car (broken in per BMW specs) will not do that and does not feel near as fast as the inital 550 I test drove. I have no concrete proof here - only the seat of my pants.
The author seems to have proof however - not necessarily scientific, but proof none the less.
HOWEVER, we are only looking at the engine here - something tells me that there are other components (trans/differential) that do better with an easier break in - just a thought.