Brought This Home Yesterday
#2
Driver
Thread Starter
Bought it with "Mechanical Damage", and I think it's a misfire because it's got no power and idles very jittery. Strangely no check engine light though...
Other problem, Brake and traction control light are on despite the hand brake not being engaged...
Other problem, Brake and traction control light are on despite the hand brake not being engaged...
#4
Wow.... Great find.... Interior looks in great shape for a '92 (looking at the pictures). The steering wheel can be wrapped or replaced.
The mechanical challenges may be large but you will have to discover those and fix as you go.... Looking forward to your progress pics.....
The mechanical challenges may be large but you will have to discover those and fix as you go.... Looking forward to your progress pics.....
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
Wow.... Great find.... Interior looks in great shape for a '92 (looking at the pictures). The steering wheel can be wrapped or replaced.
The mechanical challenges may be large but you will have to discover those and fix as you go.... Looking forward to your progress pics.....
The mechanical challenges may be large but you will have to discover those and fix as you go.... Looking forward to your progress pics.....
Thanks I'll definitely look into that, don't plan on working on it until the weather warms up a little though, Any tips for a OBD1 Scanner though? This is my first pre-96 car
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#8
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
Nice score!! low miles and an early year those are my favorite 400's.
obd1 you do not need a scanner.
If your check engine light is on then there are codes stored.
to read the codes you take a paper clip and jump Te1 and e1 in the diagnostics connector (engine bay) and then the check engine light will start blinking out codes.
It will blink out the first digit, then a pause, then it blinks out the second digit.
IF there is more than one code it will have a really long pause after the second digit, and blink out another set of digits at you.
at the end it will have an even longer pause, and then it will start over again with the first code.
If you do the check and the check engine light wasn't on, it will just blink at a steady rate meaning no codes.
also sometimes people tend to remove the check engine light bulb as a "bubba" fix to hide that the car has issues.
when you first put the key to the on position, you should see the check engine light come on for 1-2 seconds and then go away, this is to show that the bulb is operational.
So if you put the key in and you never see the check engine light come on at all, not even for a split second, someone has removed the bulb or its gone bad.
That being said I can pretty much guess from what you said that one of your 2 coilpacks has failed. Its very very very common, causes the car to run on 4 cylinders and have a weird idle.
It happens to every sc400 at least a couple times in its lifetime, so start there. there are procedures for checking which coil it is in the maintenance part of the forum.
Pretty much you disconnect the plug wire coming off the coils one at a time (not while its running unless you like getting shocked), if you disconnect one and nothing changes (Starts up and runs the same as before) then that is the bad coil... if you disconnect one and it wont start or run anymore then that was the good one you just unplugged. Then replace the bad one.
I would also give the rotors a look over especially if both coils are found to be working. on these cars, working coils, good rotors, good plugs, and good plug wires go a long way.
good luck and enjoy that 400!!
obd1 you do not need a scanner.
If your check engine light is on then there are codes stored.
to read the codes you take a paper clip and jump Te1 and e1 in the diagnostics connector (engine bay) and then the check engine light will start blinking out codes.
It will blink out the first digit, then a pause, then it blinks out the second digit.
IF there is more than one code it will have a really long pause after the second digit, and blink out another set of digits at you.
at the end it will have an even longer pause, and then it will start over again with the first code.
If you do the check and the check engine light wasn't on, it will just blink at a steady rate meaning no codes.
also sometimes people tend to remove the check engine light bulb as a "bubba" fix to hide that the car has issues.
when you first put the key to the on position, you should see the check engine light come on for 1-2 seconds and then go away, this is to show that the bulb is operational.
So if you put the key in and you never see the check engine light come on at all, not even for a split second, someone has removed the bulb or its gone bad.
That being said I can pretty much guess from what you said that one of your 2 coilpacks has failed. Its very very very common, causes the car to run on 4 cylinders and have a weird idle.
It happens to every sc400 at least a couple times in its lifetime, so start there. there are procedures for checking which coil it is in the maintenance part of the forum.
Pretty much you disconnect the plug wire coming off the coils one at a time (not while its running unless you like getting shocked), if you disconnect one and nothing changes (Starts up and runs the same as before) then that is the bad coil... if you disconnect one and it wont start or run anymore then that was the good one you just unplugged. Then replace the bad one.
I would also give the rotors a look over especially if both coils are found to be working. on these cars, working coils, good rotors, good plugs, and good plug wires go a long way.
good luck and enjoy that 400!!
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-26-17 at 04:12 PM.
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
Nice score!! low miles and an early year those are my favorite 400's.
That being said I can pretty much guess from what you said that one of your 2 coilpacks has failed. Its very very very common, causes the car to run on 4 cylinders and have a weird idle.
It happens to every sc400 at least a couple times in its lifetime, so start there. there are procedures for checking which coil it is in the maintenance part of the forum.
Pretty much you disconnect the plug wire coming off the coils one at a time (not while its running unless you like getting shocked), if you disconnect one and nothing changes (Starts up and runs the same as before) then that is the bad coil... if you disconnect one and it wont start or run anymore then that was the good one you just unplugged. Then replace the bad one.
I would also give the rotors a look over especially if both coils are found to be working. on these cars, working coils, good rotors, good plugs, and good plug wires go a long way.
good luck and enjoy that 400!!
That being said I can pretty much guess from what you said that one of your 2 coilpacks has failed. Its very very very common, causes the car to run on 4 cylinders and have a weird idle.
It happens to every sc400 at least a couple times in its lifetime, so start there. there are procedures for checking which coil it is in the maintenance part of the forum.
Pretty much you disconnect the plug wire coming off the coils one at a time (not while its running unless you like getting shocked), if you disconnect one and nothing changes (Starts up and runs the same as before) then that is the bad coil... if you disconnect one and it wont start or run anymore then that was the good one you just unplugged. Then replace the bad one.
I would also give the rotors a look over especially if both coils are found to be working. on these cars, working coils, good rotors, good plugs, and good plug wires go a long way.
good luck and enjoy that 400!!
#13
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
yeah rotors in the distributors, follow the plug leads up to the top corners of the motor and under the black plastic covers there will be hidden distributor on each side, they both have caps and rotors.
I have seen where the rotor had practically fallen apart and not giving spark properly anymore... its much less common than the coil going bad, but still something I would do as a tune up its not expensive.
the canister thing you have pictured is on all cars with traction control. the ones without trac control don't have that canister.
like my 95 manual didn't have trac control (no manual sc300's have trac control) and did not have that canister...
several other automatic SC's I owned all pretty much had trac control and that canister was present, not sure if its tied into the brake system it could be.
I have seen where the rotor had practically fallen apart and not giving spark properly anymore... its much less common than the coil going bad, but still something I would do as a tune up its not expensive.
the canister thing you have pictured is on all cars with traction control. the ones without trac control don't have that canister.
like my 95 manual didn't have trac control (no manual sc300's have trac control) and did not have that canister...
several other automatic SC's I owned all pretty much had trac control and that canister was present, not sure if its tied into the brake system it could be.
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
yeah rotors in the distributors, follow the plug leads up to the top corners of the motor and under the black plastic covers there will be hidden distributor on each side, they both have caps and rotors.
I have seen where the rotor had practically fallen apart and not giving spark properly anymore... its much less common than the coil going bad, but still something I would do as a tune up its not expensive.
the canister thing you have pictured is on all cars with traction control. the ones without trac control don't have that canister.
like my 95 manual didn't have trac control (no manual sc300's have trac control) and did not have that canister...
several other automatic SC's I owned all pretty much had trac control and that canister was present, not sure if its tied into the brake system it could be.
I have seen where the rotor had practically fallen apart and not giving spark properly anymore... its much less common than the coil going bad, but still something I would do as a tune up its not expensive.
the canister thing you have pictured is on all cars with traction control. the ones without trac control don't have that canister.
like my 95 manual didn't have trac control (no manual sc300's have trac control) and did not have that canister...
several other automatic SC's I owned all pretty much had trac control and that canister was present, not sure if its tied into the brake system it could be.
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