Lucky Enough to try and Give it a Shot
11-11-16, 11:30 AM
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Lucky Enough to try and Give it a Shot
Hey everyone I'm new to this site. I'm going to be building a sc300 over the next few months. I would really appreciate your advice. I've always been a huge fan of the 2jz inline 6 ever since I was a kid, just never could afford one until now. After figuring out I can build a solid 500 HP range turbo 2jz Lexus I'm gonna go for it.
As for my mechanical background I worked at a garage thru h.s. and spent all that money building a foxbody built around a 10 psi supercharger. I did a lot of the work with the guys at the shop and they taught me a few things along the way so I made sure I understood how everything worked.
My plan for this build is to buy a sc300 for around a grand. I've done my research and I think I can get one in decent shape for that I've found 3 just waiting for a break from work to go get one. I live in Ironton Oh but idc to drive 400 miles to find a good foundation.
Next is the transmission swap auto to manual. Everyone says go with an r154 because if I get a w58 if I'm over 350ish HP and miss a gear the tranny is done. I found a few cheap so now my question is there anyway I can build it up and make it stronger? I'm also going to get the swap kit used or thru drift motion.
Next is the turbo itself, I know it is cheaper to piece one together. I honestly was thinking about buying a boostwerx or cx kit and going with their recommendations for fuel and ecu. Any advice on that? What else do I need to support the turbo for the motor if any?
As for my mechanical background I worked at a garage thru h.s. and spent all that money building a foxbody built around a 10 psi supercharger. I did a lot of the work with the guys at the shop and they taught me a few things along the way so I made sure I understood how everything worked.
My plan for this build is to buy a sc300 for around a grand. I've done my research and I think I can get one in decent shape for that I've found 3 just waiting for a break from work to go get one. I live in Ironton Oh but idc to drive 400 miles to find a good foundation.
Next is the transmission swap auto to manual. Everyone says go with an r154 because if I get a w58 if I'm over 350ish HP and miss a gear the tranny is done. I found a few cheap so now my question is there anyway I can build it up and make it stronger? I'm also going to get the swap kit used or thru drift motion.
Next is the turbo itself, I know it is cheaper to piece one together. I honestly was thinking about buying a boostwerx or cx kit and going with their recommendations for fuel and ecu. Any advice on that? What else do I need to support the turbo for the motor if any?
11-11-16, 08:23 PM
#2
Welcome to ClubLexus, RGolden!
Finally starting to build a car you've dreamed about for a long time is a special thing. Wishing you luck on finding the right SC300 to start with! Cool history and previous experience with your Fox Body! I've always liked those when well set up. You will find that though it is friendly to wrenching the SC300 is a bit more expensive to modify but ultimately it's a very different animal (in a good way).
There are many threads, DIYs and builds in the forums that cover everything you have brought up as your project goals. Search around and you will find some quite extensive discussions, some with pictures to support.
In brief, you should decide what engine configuration you want to use to get to your 500hp (or whp?) goal. Both a 2JZ-GTE swap, 2JZ-GE NA-T conversion will do this. So will the 1JZ-GTE VVT-i and older 1JZ-GTE non-VVT-i (both with some work). There are different characteristics and methods to raising the horsepower of each of them.
Transmissions:
The manual transmission options have been widely discussed on CL, however the brief version is that while the W58 is a good gearbox it was just not intended for boosted engines. It is best suited to NA 2JZ's and for swaps onto stock 1UZ-FE V8's in pre-98 SC400's. In those applications it is very reliable and a very good choice.
For turbo, if you can get a good deal on an R154 and its conversion parts, go for it. They are reliable for turbocharging applications and present no issues until 500whp (rear tail shaft seal) but they are still proven to hold up to about 750whp consistently as a maximum safe limit. Yes, you can strengthen then with a variety of internal upgrade parts from Marlin Crawler and Driftmotion (all of them are available from Driftmotion). You would want to have an old R154 rebuilt and upgraded for high horsepower applications anyway due to their chief weaknesses: the internal OEM 1st gear thrust washer (an upgrade replaces with reliable chromoly steel) and the OEM internal front bearing retainer plate (an upgrade replaces with a much stronger billet alloy piece).
Early R154's vs "Tripod" R154's:
Also bear in mind that an R154 from a 1986.5-1992 Supra MKIII Turbo 5-speed is not as "bolt-in" as is a JDM early '91-'93 Soarer R154 or a '94+ JDM "Tripod" R154. Starting with an automatic SC you will need to cut into the transmission tunnel for either version of the shifter (or swap in an early SC or later SC/MKIV manual trans tunnel). Many people simply cut their trans tunnels rather than go to the added effort of swapping in an M/T tunnel.
For the early MKIII R154's the bellhousing needs to be swapped, an Marlin Crawler VSS sensor added and the shift housing an internal shift arm need to be extended on a special welding jig (Driftmotion does this). Or you could try swapping over a JZX100 shift housing and internal arm while supplies last... (because the Soarer shift housings are discontinued now)... but frankly I have not heard of anyone doing that for SC's. At this point in time the shift housing cutting/extension/welding service is what people do since the factory shifter conversion parts are no longer available to buy from Toyota. Also the crossmember has to be a custom solution: CX Racing sells a compact crossmember that works, Driftmotion sells a bulky crossmember kit and alternatively you could use a 1982-85 Celica W58 crossmember that needs to be cut and extended on one side with some extra plate steel welded on.
MKIII R154's that have already been converted, JDM early Soarer R154's and all JDM tripod R154's do not require the extra hardware. However some of the internal upgrade hardware made for the early R154's do not fit the later model tripod R154's (I *think* JDM 1996-2005 R154's are the ones that are slightly updated internally).
Other manual transmission options:
Beyond the R154, there is the alternative Aisin AR5 variant which is about the same only newer in design and a bit more difficult to adapt. Also the Nissan CD009 6-speed from the 350Z and the Grannas Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed swap kit. We don't recommend getting into V160 or V161 6-speeds any longer due to their discontinuation, hard to find service parts and extremely high cost-- they're generally for Supra MKIV collectors now.
Turbos:
On the turbos there are so many options between 2JZ-GTE, 2JZ-GE NA-T, 1JZ-GTE and 1JZ-GTE VVT-i applications. There actually are some options available now to upgrade factory USDM 2JZ-GTE and JDM 2JZ-GTE twins. Both versions of 1JZ factory turbos also have mild upgrades available.
Generally up to 450whp or so you should be able to use a 2JZ-GTE's factory ECU with supporting modifications (someone please correct me if I am wrong). After that there are a few options available such as the AEM V2 ECU and ProEFI 128 ECU among others.
.......
There are also other considerations like a standard brake upgrade (LS400 or TT front calipers), updating your suspension a bit and deciding on (and finding) an LSD to put down the power. If you are building for 500whp it will make more sense to go right to a clutch type LSD such as a used TRD, Kaaz, Cusco, or the very pricey OS Giken models.
I would suggest reading through several of the build threads in this sub-forum to get ideas and see what approach speaks to you and fits within your budget. There are many options! Remember, even the most conservative SC turbo builds tend to cost more than your usual project car build so plan accordingly. You can always reach your 500whp goal later after you've initially built your car and worked the bugs out.
Good luck and welcome!
Finally starting to build a car you've dreamed about for a long time is a special thing. Wishing you luck on finding the right SC300 to start with! Cool history and previous experience with your Fox Body! I've always liked those when well set up. You will find that though it is friendly to wrenching the SC300 is a bit more expensive to modify but ultimately it's a very different animal (in a good way).
There are many threads, DIYs and builds in the forums that cover everything you have brought up as your project goals. Search around and you will find some quite extensive discussions, some with pictures to support.
In brief, you should decide what engine configuration you want to use to get to your 500hp (or whp?) goal. Both a 2JZ-GTE swap, 2JZ-GE NA-T conversion will do this. So will the 1JZ-GTE VVT-i and older 1JZ-GTE non-VVT-i (both with some work). There are different characteristics and methods to raising the horsepower of each of them.
Transmissions:
The manual transmission options have been widely discussed on CL, however the brief version is that while the W58 is a good gearbox it was just not intended for boosted engines. It is best suited to NA 2JZ's and for swaps onto stock 1UZ-FE V8's in pre-98 SC400's. In those applications it is very reliable and a very good choice.
For turbo, if you can get a good deal on an R154 and its conversion parts, go for it. They are reliable for turbocharging applications and present no issues until 500whp (rear tail shaft seal) but they are still proven to hold up to about 750whp consistently as a maximum safe limit. Yes, you can strengthen then with a variety of internal upgrade parts from Marlin Crawler and Driftmotion (all of them are available from Driftmotion). You would want to have an old R154 rebuilt and upgraded for high horsepower applications anyway due to their chief weaknesses: the internal OEM 1st gear thrust washer (an upgrade replaces with reliable chromoly steel) and the OEM internal front bearing retainer plate (an upgrade replaces with a much stronger billet alloy piece).
Early R154's vs "Tripod" R154's:
Also bear in mind that an R154 from a 1986.5-1992 Supra MKIII Turbo 5-speed is not as "bolt-in" as is a JDM early '91-'93 Soarer R154 or a '94+ JDM "Tripod" R154. Starting with an automatic SC you will need to cut into the transmission tunnel for either version of the shifter (or swap in an early SC or later SC/MKIV manual trans tunnel). Many people simply cut their trans tunnels rather than go to the added effort of swapping in an M/T tunnel.
For the early MKIII R154's the bellhousing needs to be swapped, an Marlin Crawler VSS sensor added and the shift housing an internal shift arm need to be extended on a special welding jig (Driftmotion does this). Or you could try swapping over a JZX100 shift housing and internal arm while supplies last... (because the Soarer shift housings are discontinued now)... but frankly I have not heard of anyone doing that for SC's. At this point in time the shift housing cutting/extension/welding service is what people do since the factory shifter conversion parts are no longer available to buy from Toyota. Also the crossmember has to be a custom solution: CX Racing sells a compact crossmember that works, Driftmotion sells a bulky crossmember kit and alternatively you could use a 1982-85 Celica W58 crossmember that needs to be cut and extended on one side with some extra plate steel welded on.
MKIII R154's that have already been converted, JDM early Soarer R154's and all JDM tripod R154's do not require the extra hardware. However some of the internal upgrade hardware made for the early R154's do not fit the later model tripod R154's (I *think* JDM 1996-2005 R154's are the ones that are slightly updated internally).
Other manual transmission options:
Beyond the R154, there is the alternative Aisin AR5 variant which is about the same only newer in design and a bit more difficult to adapt. Also the Nissan CD009 6-speed from the 350Z and the Grannas Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed swap kit. We don't recommend getting into V160 or V161 6-speeds any longer due to their discontinuation, hard to find service parts and extremely high cost-- they're generally for Supra MKIV collectors now.
Turbos:
On the turbos there are so many options between 2JZ-GTE, 2JZ-GE NA-T, 1JZ-GTE and 1JZ-GTE VVT-i applications. There actually are some options available now to upgrade factory USDM 2JZ-GTE and JDM 2JZ-GTE twins. Both versions of 1JZ factory turbos also have mild upgrades available.
Generally up to 450whp or so you should be able to use a 2JZ-GTE's factory ECU with supporting modifications (someone please correct me if I am wrong). After that there are a few options available such as the AEM V2 ECU and ProEFI 128 ECU among others.
.......
There are also other considerations like a standard brake upgrade (LS400 or TT front calipers), updating your suspension a bit and deciding on (and finding) an LSD to put down the power. If you are building for 500whp it will make more sense to go right to a clutch type LSD such as a used TRD, Kaaz, Cusco, or the very pricey OS Giken models.
I would suggest reading through several of the build threads in this sub-forum to get ideas and see what approach speaks to you and fits within your budget. There are many options! Remember, even the most conservative SC turbo builds tend to cost more than your usual project car build so plan accordingly. You can always reach your 500whp goal later after you've initially built your car and worked the bugs out.
Good luck and welcome!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 11-11-16 at 08:45 PM.
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