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So i ordered my engine 3 weeks ago and bought the car like a month ago.
i joined the CL forum after i bought the car. and posted a thread about what's my plan. was just waiting on the motor.
This swap is going to be updated little by little the reason is that i'm a full time Mechanical Engineering student and it's really hard to find time to post things.
my friend has a shop and he is doing it for me. i wish i had a garage so i can do it by myself but he gave me a really good price.
Anyway,
the engine and the tranny just got here today
here are some pictures
Engine oil
Tranny fluid
It's pretty clean and came with everything
Now i need help with
what changes will i have to do in here?
i know i'll have to do what SBM2jLEX said in this post
Originally Posted by SBM2jLEX
No problem..
4. You need to use the jdm ignitor with the swap. The only thing to do here is to make the tach work. 1 wire must be added in. On the jdm ignitor the 3rd plug from the left is empty. You can take the old wire(green) thats in the same spot on your old ignitor out and place it in the slot thats open on the jdm ignitor (3rd from left). Connect that wire to the black/yellow wire that is on a white plug closest to the front of the car in the ecu box. The black/yellow wire should be the second to the left on the top row.
but i remember i read something about the repining a plug for the shiftlock but i didn't really get it.
as GS3 said
Originally Posted by 99 GS3
Glad to see you get going on this..
Yes use the JDM termination caps on the USDM body harness. It connects the pins in a different order if you look at the bottom of them you can see the difference. This is what takes care of the shiftlock. The threads you've prob seen where people had shiftlock issues or had to repin those body connectors did not get those terminators with their engineset.
Different order? anyone have a picture of this done?
I found this post but the pictures are gone.
Originally Posted by Burton
I am just going to put this here because this seems to be a growing problem.
If you have a bunch of dash lights and the car will not shift out of park i would start here.
Make sure the Orange plug on the aristo harness is plugged in to a connector that looks like the one in the fallowing pictures.
This will not fix your traction control lights and I have not heard of a way to get the traction control working. I pulled the bulbs.
Ben
Also my engine didn't come with the pipe where the MAF goes. can i use the gs300 one? is it the same diameter ?
one last thing is that i have an extra aristo fuel pump if anyone wants to buy it. i i bought one from japan and it's on the way it's not here yet. but the engine came with one also. so i'll wait until the other one gets here and test it first to see if it works so i can sell it.
Any help would be appreciated.
i thing the only thing i need help with is just the repining order in the orange and black jumpers
Thanks in advanced
i'll keep posting everything with pictures
Don't worry about the wiring, your swap came with the correct termination caps. The intakes are not the same diameter, so you'll need to source one.
Your engine has the ECU with the immobilizer (dark gray plug), however. Unless it came with the master key, you'll need to get an ECU without the immobilizer.
Don't worry about the wiring, your swap came with the correct termination caps. The intakes are not the same diameter, so you'll need to source one.
Your engine has the ECU with the immobilizer (dark gray plug), however. Unless it came with the master key, you'll need to get an ECU without the immobilizer.
So I dont need to swap the gray and orange ones to the GS body harness?
I will order the MAF adapter today i just found it for $50 shipped.
Oh So i need to find an ECU without the immobilizer, and i thought i was ready for the swap
More mare money to spend
Looking forward to following your progress. I did this myself just a few months back. Good luck!
You'll need to take the orange and grey terminal caps from the GTE harness and apply to the GE harness. The GE harness have orange and black caps... which need to be removed so you can put the ones on from the GTE.
Here's what it looks like after you've changed the caps:
Good thing that i called the place where i got the Engine from. they need the ECU sent to them so they can send me the ECU that doesn't have the immobilizer.
Originally Posted by KyleH
Looking forward to following your progress. I did this myself just a few months back. Good luck!
You'll need to take the orange and grey terminal caps from the GTE harness and apply to the GE harness. The GE harness have orange and black caps... which need to be removed so you can put the ones on from the GTE.
Here's what it looks like after you've changed the caps:
that's great man.
Can you help me with the wiring?
I read that they go in a different order. do you by any chance have a picture or remember what's the order to repin the wires into the JDM orange one and the black to the gray? that would really make it easier.
Your swap came with the correct caps. The gray and orange caps go on the engine harness. Moving around the wires is only applicable to swaps that did not come with the correct caps and have to reuse the original ones. You will only have to run a wire for the tachometer.
Edit to clarify: the caps are clipped into the ECU box, the factory ones will need to be removed so the GTE ones can be mounted. The connectors that plug into them are on the engine harness, not the body harness.
Last edited by iToaster; 04-13-16 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: Clarification
I'll check tonight, but my recollection is that the order stays the same, you just pop the GTE caps on in place of where the GE caps were. Orange to orange and grey where black was.
Your swap came with the correct caps. The gray and orange caps go on the engine harness. Moving around the wires is only applicable to swaps that did not come with the correct caps and have to reuse the original ones. You will only have to run a wire for the tachometer.
Edit to clarify: the caps are clipped into the ECU box, the factory ones will need to be removed so the GTE ones can be mounted. The connectors that plug into them are on the engine harness, not the body harness.
Wow if that's the case then this swap turned to be even easier then i thought
Thank you guys
Originally Posted by KyleH
I'll check tonight, but my recollection is that the order stays the same, you just pop the GTE caps on in place of where the GE caps were. Orange to orange and grey where black was.
Good deal on getting that ECU swapped out!
Actually they sent me pictures before i order the engine and the ECU in the pictures was the one W/O the immobilizer so i called and they were okay with replacing it for me and pay for the return shipping. so i should be good with the ECU.
Here are pics of the plugs that are inserted in the GTE Orange and grey caps. Pretty straight forward. Sorry, I can't tell you which wire goes to the igniter. I didn't mess with that - I assume it's the RPM signal wire? I had Mike take care of that one for me before I received the engine.
Here are pics of the plugs that are inserted in the GTE Orange and grey caps. Pretty straight forward. Sorry, I can't tell you which wire goes to the igniter. I didn't mess with that - I assume it's the RPM signal wire? I had Mike take care of that one for me before I received the engine.
That is great!! thank you for taking those pictures
Yes it's the RPM signal wire. i want to do it before i drop the engine in , it would be easier.
Who's Mike so i can ask him
while i was writting this comment i googled (aristo swap igniter wire) and i found this
Thank you SlvrGS300 for documenting
Originally Posted by SlvrGS300
you then solder this wire that you added to the Aristo ignitor plug, to the Black/Yellow wire on the top row second in from the right (looking at the back of the plug.) like this:
while i was writting this comment i googled (aristo swap igniter wire) and i found this
Thank you SlvrGS300 for documenting
I am Mike I had ran the wire through the harness and added the pin to the igniter and soldered to the ecu plug before shipping the engine to Kyle, so it was already done for a total plug and play hookup for him.
But you found your answer there in SlvrGs300 old thread. That wire is correct, you need to add a pin to the missing location on the igniter (you can pull the pin out of your GE igniter and reuse).
Don't cut the wire on the ecu plug just tap into the signal for it. This will make the tach work but also turns out some of the other dash lights that stay on if it isn't connected.
I am Mike I had ran the wire through the harness and added the pin to the igniter and soldered to the ecu plug before shipping the engine to Kyle, so it was already done for a total plug and play hookup for him.
But you found your answer there in SlvrGs300 old thread. That wire is correct, you need to add a pin to the missing location on the igniter (you can pull the pin out of your GE igniter and reuse).
Don't cut the wire on the ecu plug just tap into the signal for it. This will make the tach work but also turns out some of the other dash lights that stay on if it isn't connected.
Hi Mike
I've read a lot of your comments helping the guys doing their swaps when i was doing my "research" before i even buy the car
Thanks for stopping by Mike
04-12-16, 11:19 AM
VVT-i Aristo swap 1999 GS300
I had ran the wire through the harness and added the pin to the igniter and soldered to the ecu plug before shipping the engine to Kyle, so it was already done for a total plug and play hookup for him. 
