CD009 350Z 6spd On 1JZ SC400
#556
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Texas
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Hey guys, I finally got all of my parts in and pulled the motor last weekend (figured I'd take the easy route and knock out some other hard to reach odds n ends while I'm swapping transmissions)
I got the Collins adapter kit with the twin disk, BTW.
Just to be clear, the tunnel bashing is to make it easier to install/uninstall the transmission with the motor staying in right? No bashing needed if motor is going to be pulled? I'm assuming tunnels are the same between the mkiv and sc/gs/etc that were a340 from the factory.
Thanks!
Tim
I got the Collins adapter kit with the twin disk, BTW.
Just to be clear, the tunnel bashing is to make it easier to install/uninstall the transmission with the motor staying in right? No bashing needed if motor is going to be pulled? I'm assuming tunnels are the same between the mkiv and sc/gs/etc that were a340 from the factory.
Thanks!
Tim
#557
Hey Tim,
I would be 90% sure that you could fit it in without bashing the tunnel, while pulling the motor. I only did it to make it easier to drop in the future without having to pull the motor again. You will more than likely need to spread the body of the tunnel a bit because the cd009 is much beefier in that area as well.
Keith
I would be 90% sure that you could fit it in without bashing the tunnel, while pulling the motor. I only did it to make it easier to drop in the future without having to pull the motor again. You will more than likely need to spread the body of the tunnel a bit because the cd009 is much beefier in that area as well.
Keith
#559
Changed out my stock SC400 3.92 diff today to the LS430 3.26 diff. I like it so much better, it's perfect. 1st gear is actually long enough to be able to do a short pull, but not so long that it causes tremendous lag, which was the case with the 3.92 diff and the auto trans. The cd009 trans and 3.92 diff combo had basically no first gear. Got off the line quick and immediately had to change gears. Was basically useless. I like this diff so much better
#561
For some reason, when I go to shift towards the right, like I'm trying to shift into 5th or 6th, it's sticky. It'l like I have to give it extra pressure to go to the right, and of course then when it does, it goes too far like all the way to the reverse portion. I'm not sure why it feels sticky. Literraly like there is a small interference that I have to push past. I'm not sure why, it's not like that at all going to the left for 1st/2nd. I talked to Brett Fenning, he mentoined removing the ball/spring under the black plate and see if the problem goes away.
Side note, I tried out my buddies MKIV who has the fenning shifter. It felt nice. It was still close ratio from left to right, but maybe it's because the shifter is taller/extended, it wasn't as bad as this one. Also, in his car when I shift towards the right, it sort of stops at the 5th/6th gate, so it feels nice like you won't go too far to the right and accidentally hit Reverse. The just apply more pressure to get to Reverse. What's odd to me though, was I asked him if he did that spring modification that Brett recommends with his shifter, which would explain that. And he said no, he just installed the shifter, didn't do anything in the transmission. So that's strange, I don't understand how his sort of stops you from going to reverse then, as I thought that was the spring mod that did that. None the less I really liked it. I may either look into trying to extend my shifter a little taller, or I may just end up buying his shifter altogether.
Side note, I tried out my buddies MKIV who has the fenning shifter. It felt nice. It was still close ratio from left to right, but maybe it's because the shifter is taller/extended, it wasn't as bad as this one. Also, in his car when I shift towards the right, it sort of stops at the 5th/6th gate, so it feels nice like you won't go too far to the right and accidentally hit Reverse. The just apply more pressure to get to Reverse. What's odd to me though, was I asked him if he did that spring modification that Brett recommends with his shifter, which would explain that. And he said no, he just installed the shifter, didn't do anything in the transmission. So that's strange, I don't understand how his sort of stops you from going to reverse then, as I thought that was the spring mod that did that. None the less I really liked it. I may either look into trying to extend my shifter a little taller, or I may just end up buying his shifter altogether.
#563
With the CBF kit he gives spacers for the two bolts on the side of the trans that have springs, it looks like those line up with the same springs under the black cover. Im going to try messing with them since it will be way easier than dropping the trans to get the black plate off.
#564
It's so weird that you guys were having issues getting it into 5th and 6th. I have had zero issues. When I originally put it all in, I was having a similar interference issue when going to 5th, 6th, or Reverse and it ended up being that the bottom of the shifter linkage was hitting the driveshaft knuckle when the knuckle was in a certain spot. So I just shaved a little off of the linkage piece and have had zero issues. I have probably 4k-5k miles on the setup now, and still all good
#565
It's so weird that you guys were having issues getting it into 5th and 6th. I have had zero issues. When I originally put it all in, I was having a similar interference issue when going to 5th, 6th, or Reverse and it ended up being that the bottom of the shifter linkage was hitting the driveshaft knuckle when the knuckle was in a certain spot. So I just shaved a little off of the linkage piece and have had zero issues. I have probably 4k-5k miles on the setup now, and still all good
Last edited by SC3NAT; 03-13-17 at 12:04 AM.
#566
Hey sorry ive been lurking for awhile but I also did the A340 CD009 swap on my SC and I have a problem also with Brett Fennings shifter. I have a hard time going from 2nd to 3rd (wants to go to 5th) and also getting it into 4th and reverse is a pain unless I take my time and get it exactly right. I actually miss-shifted and went to 2nd instead of 4th which scared the **** out of me luckily I saved it. It makes me wanna get rid of his whole shifter setup and go with something else to be honest. I think his shifter needs more tweaking for it to be nice. I did what he recommends in his instructions to cut one detent pin, remove the other one, and swap spings but somethings still not right. I really dont like it. I may send it back and get the Serial9 or CBF. Any insight guys I could use the help asap! THANKS
But yeah, I don't know how long you have been driving the swap for, but give it some time and you will get used to it. I don't race or drift so am not power shifting all the time, so I have no problem shifting. I just pull to the left and down to get into second, then shifting over to 3rd, it's pretty much straight up without pulling to the left. Let the springs return the shifter to the neutral position as you press up into 3rd. 4th is the easiest to get into, just straight down from 3rd. 5th, I just press to the right and sometimes goes too far over, then let the springs bring it back as you press up to get into 5th. 6th, which I rarely go in and out of because once I'm on the highway, and get it into 6th, it stays in 6th. But for 6th, I just apply just enough rightward force to overcome the spring tension that wants to pull it back to the neutral spot, and at the same time pull straight down. It would be really hard to accidentally go into R because of how much spring tension you have to overcome to get it all the way over to R. Sorry, don't mean to "teach" you how to shift, just trying to explain what I have done to get used to it. Hope this helps!!
Keith
#567
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (6)
I've driven it a bit lately since we had some spring teaser weather. I can go 1 thru 6 no problem. It just takes getting used to. But if I just throw it in neutral and want to just go straight into say 4th, I have to pay attention because it's easy to get it wrong. The left to right is very short. As said previous, it's the nature of how we're doing this.
For Reverse Lock-out, the way Fenning has laid it out is absolutely perfect in my opinion. It's very simple to do, and I suppose it's true it's not a TRUE lockout, but what it does is requires like 4x the effort (pulled that number out of my ***, but it's significant) to push it over that far to the right. So the risk of going into Rev instead of 6th is absolutely mitigated. I wish I would have just done it that way before I ever trimmed the springs in the actual shifter base. Anyone who is concerned about Reverse, just do his method, it works perfectly.
I'm still using my homemade setup just to be clear. I haven't gotten Fennings shifter although I've though about it A LOT. But so far so good with the homemade one.
One thing I've thought of regarding the side to side issue, I might grab a shifter extension rod. My homemade setup has the shift **** very low, too low in my opinion. I was thinking of adding a 3-4" extension to it. That'll raise it up to I think a more normal height, and create a longer 'lever' which may help with the left-right feel. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Manual-Shifter-Extension-10x1-25/dp/B008OPVIHM/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489412946&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=shift+extender+10+1.25
I'm slowly getting the car tuned on the new AEM Infinity setup, turning the boost up little by little. I'm up to 25psi now. No idea where the car is at power-wise, but my ricer bench racing dyno says I have to be right around 600hp at the moment.
For Reverse Lock-out, the way Fenning has laid it out is absolutely perfect in my opinion. It's very simple to do, and I suppose it's true it's not a TRUE lockout, but what it does is requires like 4x the effort (pulled that number out of my ***, but it's significant) to push it over that far to the right. So the risk of going into Rev instead of 6th is absolutely mitigated. I wish I would have just done it that way before I ever trimmed the springs in the actual shifter base. Anyone who is concerned about Reverse, just do his method, it works perfectly.
I'm still using my homemade setup just to be clear. I haven't gotten Fennings shifter although I've though about it A LOT. But so far so good with the homemade one.
One thing I've thought of regarding the side to side issue, I might grab a shifter extension rod. My homemade setup has the shift **** very low, too low in my opinion. I was thinking of adding a 3-4" extension to it. That'll raise it up to I think a more normal height, and create a longer 'lever' which may help with the left-right feel. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Manual-Shifter-Extension-10x1-25/dp/B008OPVIHM/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489412946&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=shift+extender+10+1.25
I'm slowly getting the car tuned on the new AEM Infinity setup, turning the boost up little by little. I'm up to 25psi now. No idea where the car is at power-wise, but my ricer bench racing dyno says I have to be right around 600hp at the moment.
#568
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (6)
FYI thought I'd also bring up Brett Fenning's car.
He posted up a video yesterday on FB of his SC300 doing a pull on the dyno in prep for TX2K. Doesn't show numbers, doesn't show a dyno chart, but he stated he's at about 1100hp now on his CD009 with Collin's Twin-Disc on I think he said an 83mm BW turbo.
He posted up a video yesterday on FB of his SC300 doing a pull on the dyno in prep for TX2K. Doesn't show numbers, doesn't show a dyno chart, but he stated he's at about 1100hp now on his CD009 with Collin's Twin-Disc on I think he said an 83mm BW turbo.