The fall of Lexi(RIP) and the rise of Pheonix - swap motor, suspension, diy
11-17-15, 07:53 AM
#91
never happened while driving, its once you click it off when you go to turn it back on either that little plastic thing you have to turn breaks (lost one that way and used small pliers on it for a while to turn it until it just wouldn't turn far enough anymore), or the plastic thing will turn to on but it wont turn on internally (lost one like that also), and one time I had one burn out during cranking and then it also wouldn't turn on internally afterwards.
I did some reading online and those who have tested those things say they are not built very well and heat up alot etc.. I doubt they can handle the listed amount of amps for more than a few seconds without melting or failing.
It was sad news =( because I loved that convenience of turning it on or off but I ended up ditching it.
The convenience made me keep buying new ones, but after like $100+ into those breakers I decided they aren't built well and went to a heavy duty fuse that has given me no problems. I have my battery lines on those butterfly posts things so I just pull the line off now when I want to disconnect it. 30 more seconds but no chasing electrical issues. I hope you have better luck, but keep a backup I remember running all around town trying to find a fuse large enough to work the first 2 times it failed on me and I wanted to drive it.
Ended up going with an ANL fuse 200/250 amp with a fuse holder.
I did some reading online and those who have tested those things say they are not built very well and heat up alot etc.. I doubt they can handle the listed amount of amps for more than a few seconds without melting or failing.
It was sad news =( because I loved that convenience of turning it on or off but I ended up ditching it.
The convenience made me keep buying new ones, but after like $100+ into those breakers I decided they aren't built well and went to a heavy duty fuse that has given me no problems. I have my battery lines on those butterfly posts things so I just pull the line off now when I want to disconnect it. 30 more seconds but no chasing electrical issues. I hope you have better luck, but keep a backup I remember running all around town trying to find a fuse large enough to work the first 2 times it failed on me and I wanted to drive it.
Ended up going with an ANL fuse 200/250 amp with a fuse holder.
[SIZE="4"]Relocated battery mounting to the chassis - Final [/SIZE]
Well was able to get a couple things done since I last let off. I ordered that battery box for my optima and had no way of securing it to the chassis. So after some brain storming and measurements taken. The oem Amp and CD Changer bracket was almost the perfect size. Almost like lexus had intended me to buy an optima this battery box and mount it in the trunk lol
Side by side
Kind of a bad picture, but after removing the cd changer and amp, I put the bracket over the battery box and it was a near perfect fit.
To remove the center peice of the bracket, you just simply drill out the rivets and the center cover will come off. Simple and clean looking, you don't have to cut it off. Remember work smarter not harder guys
. I circled the rivets below.
After removing the center piece I simple lined up the bracket sides to the battery box made sure they were even and drilled some holes.added some 10mm bolts and nuts and nice and secure it is
I did have to trim a piece of the right bracket off
Left went in smoothly
All nice and bolt on, this battery is not going anywhere
I did drill out one of the mounting bolt holes, it didn't line up perfectly. Other than that all nice and secure in the chassis
A few things left to do before this mod is complete.
•Need to secure all my loose lines in the trunk,
•cut and mode the oem trunk carpeting to fit the batter
•make a cover for the battery and circuit breaker so no incidents happen while I'm driving
So there was something I never had in any of the scs I have ever owned sadly. So this time I ordered a set of strong arm trunk shocks for $27 off ebay. I ordered the one made for the trunk with spoiler. Here is my install process for those who never installed them like me. Wasn't hard, especially since my tunk was already bare and open.
So here we go - [SIZE="4"]Trunk shocks installation [/SIZE]
You open the package and this is what you get
•New ball joint with washer
•New shock lift
•New retaining clips for the trunk lifts
Step 1 - Remove the old ball joints with a 12mm box wrench
Step 2 - Remove the retaining clip holding the trunk lifts on the other end
• using a flat head or pick just simply force the clip sides outs like what I have pictured
Step 3 - Install the new ball joints - I used a 11mm socket to get these on
Step 4 - Force the trunk lifts on, the ball joint part on the ball joint and retaining clip part on the bottom.
Success the trunk now lifts it self up when you pop it with the key or from the inside. No more 2x4s or ghetto ways to keeping it up.
Last edited by chnk; 05-20-18 at 06:13 AM.
05-13-18, 10:36 AM
#94
About a year later 2016ish? The motor finally let go after almost 5 years of ownership. Piston 3 decided to sling out bot sides of the motor while crusing one day. Luckily it was few miles from the house.
Pulled the motor out pulled the head off and here is what i found
back to being motorless agian lol
The block is now ruined, upper sump ruined, and possibly the head if the piston hit the head.
Time to go 1.5jz!!
Pulled the motor out pulled the head off and here is what i found
back to being motorless agian lol
The block is now ruined, upper sump ruined, and possibly the head if the piston hit the head.
Time to go 1.5jz!!
05-13-18, 10:48 AM
#95
With my automatic transmission slipping and block ruined I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone.
Luckily I had a buddy who was parting out a high mileage factory 5 speed sc300. I went over threw some money on his way and grabbed all the entire drive train along with the pedals and all.
Brought the motor home it was super dirty
After a quick pressure wash
On a tire in the garage for the time being once I plan out this build
Luckily I had a buddy who was parting out a high mileage factory 5 speed sc300. I went over threw some money on his way and grabbed all the entire drive train along with the pedals and all.
Brought the motor home it was super dirty
After a quick pressure wash
On a tire in the garage for the time being once I plan out this build
05-15-18, 09:41 AM
#97
Now for the motor build!
This motor is old with 20 year grime everywhere. While the motor is apart going to wire brush, clean and paint as many things as possible.
First the intake manifold
Before
After
Since the upper sump was destroyed with the block I pulled off the ge upper sump, drilled out the oil return hole, and had a -10 an bung welded to the upper sump. Also wire brushed the sump cleaned and painted it with high temp primer and high temp silver as well.
I put this motor together a year+ ago so here is a list of everything that went in there. Alot of these parts had to be replaced with 2JZGTE parts for the 1.5JZ GTE conversion so if youre gonig 1.5 you'll need to find all these parts as well.
- Block was dropped off to machine shop for the following
- decking, honing, and hot tanked - $300
- Head was also dropped off to the machine for the following
- decking and hot tanked - $200
- ACL Race Bearings - standard size
- OEM Rear Main Seal - 90311-90006
- OEM Front Man Seal - 90311-46001
- ARP head studs - 203-4205
- OEM 2JZ GTE Head Gasket - 11115-46052
- GSC Power-Division Viton Valve Stem Seals for 2jz
- 2JZGE Turbo feed set up
- IS300 union bolt for turbo feed - thread is 1/8 BSPT (British standard pipe thread)
- 1/8 NPT Female to 1/8 BSPT BSP Male Gauge Sensor Sender Adapter Reducer
- This is to adapt 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT threading
- Hydraulic Fitting Steel Adapter 1/8" Male NPT to -4 an Male
- Stainless Steel Braided Line -4 an x 36" with 90 end Turbo oil feed
- 2JZGTE oil pump - 15100-46052
- 2JZGE LOWER TIMING BELT COVER - 11302-46031
- the 1JZGTE lower timing cover is shorter than the block
- 2JZGTE water bypass pipe - 16268-46020
- The 1JZGTE one is too short to reach the water neck on the head
- 2x Toyota Coolant pipe oring - 96761-24023
- 2JZGTE Upper water neck - part number unknown I got this used
- the 1JZGTE water neck is too short to reach the coolant hose
- 2JZGTE water neck gasket - 16343-46030
- oring for the water neck - 96761-24023
- The coolant sensors on the 1JZGTE water neck will not work on the 2JZGTE water neck. You will need the 2JZ equivalents, I found mine at advance auto parts. I then used universal connectors to adapt the 1JZGTE harness to plug into the 2JZ sensors.
I also painted the block black
Brand new OEM Aisin Starter from rock auto while I was at it
05-20-18, 06:38 AM
#100
Bolted the head on the car and mocked up the turbo manifold to the car
Had to install 2 new valves on cylinder 3 due to the piston hitting the head. Other than a hot tank, decking, cleaning, and new valve seals, and a valve job that is all I did to the head. I'll install cams later, priority for this motor right now is just to get it to run like factory
Starting to look like a motor
motor into the car
The next morning turned her on and Pheonix lives!!!!
Victory pose
Had to install 2 new valves on cylinder 3 due to the piston hitting the head. Other than a hot tank, decking, cleaning, and new valve seals, and a valve job that is all I did to the head. I'll install cams later, priority for this motor right now is just to get it to run like factory
Starting to look like a motor
motor into the car
The next morning turned her on and Pheonix lives!!!!
Victory pose
05-20-18, 07:42 PM
#102
Motor broken in Front Main Seal issues 1.0!
I broke in my motor and clutch by driving it like a grandma for 5 weeks straight on my work commute traffic and all. Everything seemed fine till I noticed smoke from under my hood and my oil light came on.
I pop the hood to find oil slung all around my engine bay and timing belt which im 99% sure its the front main seal
So there could be a couple things that could of gone wrong
I broke in my motor and clutch by driving it like a grandma for 5 weeks straight on my work commute traffic and all. Everything seemed fine till I noticed smoke from under my hood and my oil light came on.
I pop the hood to find oil slung all around my engine bay and timing belt which im 99% sure its the front main seal
So there could be a couple things that could of gone wrong
- the front main seal was installed wrong by me, which is possible even though ive done this a few times already
- the cam seals may have blown, i feel this is highly unlikely as i can see my cam gears
- the oil pressure/crank case pressure may have caused it to leak
- crankwalk from the motor being torqued down wrong or something, very possible since this was the first time i've assembled a motor
Last edited by chnk; 05-21-18 at 09:10 AM.
