The fall of Lexi(RIP) and the rise of Pheonix - swap motor, suspension, diy
09-27-15, 08:19 PM
#61
[SIZE="4"]Passenger fender off mods - engine build - part 1 - passenger harness relocation[/SIZE]
Passenger side is pretty much done the same as the drivers side
Before
After
Modification notes
• ABS will be deleted, so the two plugs to the ABS will remain unused or deleted
• Need to extend and reroute the O2 sensor clip
• Already extended and rerouted the sensor to the AC line
top view
fit the harness through this oem spot
Passenger side is pretty much done the same as the drivers side
Before
After
Modification notes
• ABS will be deleted, so the two plugs to the ABS will remain unused or deleted
• Need to extend and reroute the O2 sensor clip
• Already extended and rerouted the sensor to the AC line
top view
fit the harness through this oem spot
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 09:34 PM.
09-28-15, 07:32 AM
#65
I left the wiring of my ABS sensors on each wheel though since I use those wirings for my traction control with ProEFI.
Never realized that of the airbag. They have I guess gone through that car and gotten what they needed.
09-28-15, 12:17 PM
#66
remove the whole wiring from the source (fuse box) to the inside of your car so cleaner and no danger of live wires getting shorted with the body.
I left the wiring of my ABS sensors on each wheel though since I use those wirings for my traction control with ProEFI.
Never realized that of the airbag. They have I guess gone through that car and gotten what they needed.
I left the wiring of my ABS sensors on each wheel though since I use those wirings for my traction control with ProEFI.
Never realized that of the airbag. They have I guess gone through that car and gotten what they needed.
09-28-15, 10:52 PM
#70
quick update, finished the abs delete with connecting the front two lines into a corolla T and connecting one of the rears into a T also. Hid the lines behind my catch can.
Modification notes
• there are 12mm bolts inside the fender well holding the abs bracket to the chassis
• break the brake lines off the abs motor before unbolting the motor off the bracket
• bend the lines one by one before bolting them into the corolla Ts
Still working on the clutter on the firewall
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 09:38 PM.
10-07-15, 08:25 AM
#71
[SIZE="4"]If anyone wanted to send their turbo to precision for rebuild/repair here is how my 6262 pte went...[/SIZE]
Quick update on the precision rebuilding process if you send your turbo to precision. For those who missed it, my turbo started to get shaft play kind of out of no where after 4 years of use. Called precision got a rma number, filled their form out, and shipped it to them next day.
They received my turbo and called me confirming it on the September 4, 2015
So after a long time of waiting on precision I finally hear from them on the 16th business day October 2, 2015. Apparently my 6262 PTE turbo bearings were damaged and starting to fail. The turbine was fine and able to balance so that saved me alot for the rebuild cost. Of course they replaced the journal bearings and seals in the turbo.
so between 09/04/15 and 10/02/2015 that is 16 business days, and 4 weeks of waiting
The cost of the turbo comes at $287.13 + $10 precision shirt(fan boying sorry lol) + $15 fed ex ground shipping.
Here is the break down of the invoice.
Quick update on the precision rebuilding process if you send your turbo to precision. For those who missed it, my turbo started to get shaft play kind of out of no where after 4 years of use. Called precision got a rma number, filled their form out, and shipped it to them next day.
They received my turbo and called me confirming it on the September 4, 2015
So after a long time of waiting on precision I finally hear from them on the 16th business day October 2, 2015. Apparently my 6262 PTE turbo bearings were damaged and starting to fail. The turbine was fine and able to balance so that saved me alot for the rebuild cost. Of course they replaced the journal bearings and seals in the turbo.
so between 09/04/15 and 10/02/2015 that is 16 business days, and 4 weeks of waiting
The cost of the turbo comes at $287.13 + $10 precision shirt(fan boying sorry lol) + $15 fed ex ground shipping.
Here is the break down of the invoice.
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 09:40 PM.
10-19-15, 08:32 PM
#72
Alright time for some updates.
its been a minute got the car running
the car did not want to start for a while wasn't getting power to the fuel pump or even getting spark. Turned out I forgot to clip in two body plugs near the ecu on the passenger side
Oh well lots of relays and fuses were replaced while I was at it.
Still lots of things to do before she is road worthy
[SIZE="4"]Onto the intecooler piping mapping and design [/SIZE]
my engine bay is looking a little empty without the piping
I wanted to have the intercooler
•run under the headlights for the shortest distance possible,
•wanted it to clear the head lights,
•clear the fan shroud
I already had a nice intercooler with 2.75" input and outputs. After much mocking and experimenting I was able to clearify that the intercooler piping will clear the headlights and the bumper cover support. So I went and pulled the trigger.
So here is what I did for the passenger side I ordered
• 1 x 2.5 90 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• 1 x 2.75 to 2.5 reducer 90 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• 1 x 2.5 45 degree 610mm length aluminum intercooler piping - $18 shipped
• 1 x 2.5 45 degree 300mm length aluminum intercooler piping - $16 shipped
After over laying the pipe and cutting where the pipes overlapped with a hack saw
I ended up with this beauty
and the top view
After I clean up around the edges and make is perfectly flat with a table bench sander I will be paying my welder a visit and adding bevels to where the pipe goes in the couplers
The drivers side did not go as smoothly and required some modifications.
For the drivers side I ordered
• 1 x 2.75 45 degree 610mm length aluminum intercooler piping - $20 shipped
• 1 x 2.75 90 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• 1 x 2.75 45 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• Tial Q 50 mm BOV - purple $258 shipped
First I removed the plastic covers on the harness that runs through there and rewrapped everything with electrical tape for a slimmer profile. The 2.75" pipe was going to be a tight fit where the 2.5" fit easy. Using a sawzall I cut the head light opening up for more clearance. Also moved the ac canister down some more and bent the hardline to go around the silicone coupler. Not sure if I like this can always change it out later.
Here is what it looked like factory on the left and on the right after the hacking lol
After cutting the pipe some and trimming some of the silicone couper here is what I ended up with
Head light clearance check - we are good
Intercooler piping design finished. Just need the bov to get here and get some welding done and I can finally throw the front end back on
its been a minute got the car running
Facebook Post
the car did not want to start for a while wasn't getting power to the fuel pump or even getting spark. Turned out I forgot to clip in two body plugs near the ecu on the passenger side
Oh well lots of relays and fuses were replaced while I was at it.
Still lots of things to do before she is road worthy
[SIZE="4"]Onto the intecooler piping mapping and design [/SIZE]
my engine bay is looking a little empty without the piping
I wanted to have the intercooler
•run under the headlights for the shortest distance possible,
•wanted it to clear the head lights,
•clear the fan shroud
I already had a nice intercooler with 2.75" input and outputs. After much mocking and experimenting I was able to clearify that the intercooler piping will clear the headlights and the bumper cover support. So I went and pulled the trigger.
So here is what I did for the passenger side I ordered
• 1 x 2.5 90 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• 1 x 2.75 to 2.5 reducer 90 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• 1 x 2.5 45 degree 610mm length aluminum intercooler piping - $18 shipped
• 1 x 2.5 45 degree 300mm length aluminum intercooler piping - $16 shipped
After over laying the pipe and cutting where the pipes overlapped with a hack saw
I ended up with this beauty
and the top view
After I clean up around the edges and make is perfectly flat with a table bench sander I will be paying my welder a visit and adding bevels to where the pipe goes in the couplers
The drivers side did not go as smoothly and required some modifications.
For the drivers side I ordered
• 1 x 2.75 45 degree 610mm length aluminum intercooler piping - $20 shipped
• 1 x 2.75 90 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• 1 x 2.75 45 degree 4 ply silicone coupler + T clamps - $11 shipped
• Tial Q 50 mm BOV - purple $258 shipped
First I removed the plastic covers on the harness that runs through there and rewrapped everything with electrical tape for a slimmer profile. The 2.75" pipe was going to be a tight fit where the 2.5" fit easy. Using a sawzall I cut the head light opening up for more clearance. Also moved the ac canister down some more and bent the hardline to go around the silicone coupler. Not sure if I like this can always change it out later.
Here is what it looked like factory on the left and on the right after the hacking lol
After cutting the pipe some and trimming some of the silicone couper here is what I ended up with
Head light clearance check - we are good
Intercooler piping design finished. Just need the bov to get here and get some welding done and I can finally throw the front end back on
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 09:48 PM.
10-19-15, 09:06 PM
#74
[SIZE="4"]For those wanting to buy the cheap driftmotion manifold, ebay manifolds, or cheap cx racing manifolds, here is some food for thought [/SIZE]
So with my precision turbo dying recent and the ordeal you go through to get it rebuilt by precision which honestly went pretty smoothly for me compared to my other friends I did alot of reading on why turbos would fail. Two things caught my attention that I didn't even think about, due to my ignorance and assuming anything would work.
Turbos need proper drain and feed depending on ball or journal bearing this may differ. My Precision 6262 is just a journal bearing turbo. For years this turbo has been reliable on my old T3 manifold set up with a T3/T4 adapter and ghetto improvised drain and feed lines that leaked some. But what I didn't realize was that the drain and feed worked well for the turbo.
When I switched to the driftmotion T4 divided 1jzgte manifold set up two very import things changed. I bought a cx racing drain kit off ebay to work with this manifold also. Here is where I probably made my two fatal errors for my precision.
issue 1
•The driftmotion manifold by design can only fit a -10 an 90 degree fitting because the 1st and second runners are really close.
•The CX Racing feed and return line kit I bought used a -4 an line and -3 an restrictor plate which isn't the best for journal bearing turbos.
So in theory these parts may have been the fatal issues to my turbo but then again my turbo is more than 4 years old and lots of daily driving miles it could just be old. So I decided to work with what I have and try to prevent these problems from happening again. So here is what I did,
[SIZE="4"]Issue 1 - resolution[/SIZE]
I found a solution to this that will work getting a 45 degree fitting in there, and this is probably the best you can do I don't see a 30 degree being possible
Here is a close up of the 90 degree fitting there is no fitting anything, pretty poorly designed manifold but I can work with it. I did call driftmotion and their response was we have sold hundreds of these manifolds and no one really has had a problem
So I went and got a 1/2 T4 spacer from my friend Matt at JEI and got some different length and size 45 degree -10 an fittings from another friend. The spacer only cost me $25 and the fittings were free
Using the shortest 45 degree fitting and the spacer and clocking the middle of the turbo about 10-15 degrees I was able to fit the 45 fitting.
Here is some pics of the 90 degree fitting - as you can see the runner is in the way no possible way of getting a straight fitting there
Here it is with the 45 degree fitting and spacer - haven't bolted the turbo on fully yet
Kind of hard to see but here is the turbo senter clocked about 10-15 degree - please correct me if you think this is more than 15 degrees kind of hard to tell. From what I read 15 degrees is about as much you can safety clock it
[SIZE="4"]Issue 2 resolution[/SIZE]
This was simple fix
So with my precision turbo dying recent and the ordeal you go through to get it rebuilt by precision which honestly went pretty smoothly for me compared to my other friends I did alot of reading on why turbos would fail. Two things caught my attention that I didn't even think about, due to my ignorance and assuming anything would work.
Turbos need proper drain and feed depending on ball or journal bearing this may differ. My Precision 6262 is just a journal bearing turbo. For years this turbo has been reliable on my old T3 manifold set up with a T3/T4 adapter and ghetto improvised drain and feed lines that leaked some. But what I didn't realize was that the drain and feed worked well for the turbo.
When I switched to the driftmotion T4 divided 1jzgte manifold set up two very import things changed. I bought a cx racing drain kit off ebay to work with this manifold also. Here is where I probably made my two fatal errors for my precision.
issue 1
•The driftmotion manifold by design can only fit a -10 an 90 degree fitting because the 1st and second runners are really close.
•in theory if you get a nice 90 degree fitting that is a nice bend and not a sharp bend the turbo may drain fine.
•but the general rule of thumb in any turbo chassis - the straighter the better
•if you look at more expensive manifold designs such as the cx racing thick manifold for $500 the 1st and 2nd runner are not in the way of the drain and allow a straight drain/return
issue 2•but the general rule of thumb in any turbo chassis - the straighter the better
•if you look at more expensive manifold designs such as the cx racing thick manifold for $500 the 1st and 2nd runner are not in the way of the drain and allow a straight drain/return
•The CX Racing feed and return line kit I bought used a -4 an line and -3 an restrictor plate which isn't the best for journal bearing turbos.
So in theory these parts may have been the fatal issues to my turbo but then again my turbo is more than 4 years old and lots of daily driving miles it could just be old. So I decided to work with what I have and try to prevent these problems from happening again. So here is what I did,
[SIZE="4"]Issue 1 - resolution[/SIZE]
I found a solution to this that will work getting a 45 degree fitting in there, and this is probably the best you can do I don't see a 30 degree being possible
Here is a close up of the 90 degree fitting there is no fitting anything, pretty poorly designed manifold but I can work with it. I did call driftmotion and their response was we have sold hundreds of these manifolds and no one really has had a problem
So I went and got a 1/2 T4 spacer from my friend Matt at JEI and got some different length and size 45 degree -10 an fittings from another friend. The spacer only cost me $25 and the fittings were free
Using the shortest 45 degree fitting and the spacer and clocking the middle of the turbo about 10-15 degrees I was able to fit the 45 fitting.
Here is some pics of the 90 degree fitting - as you can see the runner is in the way no possible way of getting a straight fitting there
Here it is with the 45 degree fitting and spacer - haven't bolted the turbo on fully yet
Kind of hard to see but here is the turbo senter clocked about 10-15 degree - please correct me if you think this is more than 15 degrees kind of hard to tell. From what I read 15 degrees is about as much you can safety clock it
[SIZE="4"]Issue 2 resolution[/SIZE]
This was simple fix
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 09:54 PM.
