The fall of Lexi(RIP) and the rise of Pheonix - swap motor, suspension, diy
#16
[SIZE="4"]Interior Build part 1 - Reflectrix insulation - continued ....[/SIZE]
Decided to do the rest of the car while I'm at, won't be dropping the motor in till my 3000 stall torque converter comes in from Australia
Decided to do the rest of the car while I'm at, won't be dropping the motor in till my 3000 stall torque converter comes in from Australia
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 02:36 PM.
#19
because I was concerned of weight of other car insulators and 2 big rolls of this stuff is $30 and weighs close to nothing.
#23
Thanks, love working on this car too much to give up
Busy busy weekend,
[SIZE="4"]Built auto Transmission time![/SIZE]
So my 3000 1jzgte torque converter finally came in from Australia after about 2 weeks of being lost from usps
I did alot of reading on the Bethpage, NY page that place is apparently a hell hole for packages, just glad this one didn't end up on the lost list
Dropped the transmission off the engine, filled this bad boy up with a quart of Toyoyta Type T-IV atf fluid, put the transmission back on,bolted the converter to the drive plate. my engine is good to go in the shell now
My new transcooler came in also - cx racing 16 row transmission cooler - $65
Product Info and Spec:
Overall Size: 11.50x8.25x2 inch
Core Size: 9.5x8.25x2 inch
Inlet & Outlet: An 8
Inlet Outlet Center Distance: 8.25"
Rows: 16
Material: 100% Aluminum
I use a 6-an steel braided hose for my transmission lines, so I had to get 8-an to 6-an reducers for this one. Also took the compressor and blew air into the cooler for any metal shavings. Can't be too safe with these chinese mass produced products.
My transmission specs for those who maybe interested
•upgraded raybestos high energy clutches
•superior shift kit
•re-pressurized and rebuilt valve body
•6-an steel braided lines to replace the stock transmission lines
•bypassed radiator cooler to an external transmission cooler
•Cost to do this was under $600-$700 with labor
Future plans for the trans
•is300 transmission fluid pump - if this one starts to weaken
•gs300 transmission pan
•electric fan to come on when the fluid is running hot
•paint it orange lol
[SIZE="4"]New shell time![/SIZE]
As much pain as it is to swap out throttle cable to the gte one, I managed to get it in.
Without the interior and engine the shell was pretty easy to push with help of course.
Wrapped my T4 manifold with titanium exhaust wrap while I was at it
•checked it for holes and cracks before putting it back on and wrapping it , only found one tiny little hole. Got the hole welded so she is good to go
While the engine was out. I did a few things, this makes a huge difference on how smoothly the motor goes in
•Installed solid steering bushings
•Removed the evap canister and routed the inlet hose into the fender well
•connect missing hoses for the heater hoses and brake cylinder
•installed new motor mounts
•installed new transmission mounts
•cleaned the motor with a pressure washer of course avoiding the spark plugs, alternator, and fuel injectors
Before the crash I did refresh the engine
•new timing belt
•new water pump
•new rear main seal
•new front main seal
•new cam seals
•new valve cover seals
That is all for now, the engine and trans is bolted to the car, along with the stock feed and return lines, the starter nut, and big block ground
Left to do
•Lots of heater hoses and vacuum lines need to be reconnected
•harness still needs to be run into the car and ecu
•my 6262 precision turbo is still at precision for its rebuild
•need to order a new ac condenser
•cooling system/radiator will be installed after ac condenser is installed
•still need to run a long wire to the ignition for the car to fire up
•install drive shaft
Some tips for the new guys doing jz swaps into their cars
GTE throttle cable swap
•remove the front seats for laying room
•lay your body towards the kicker panel where your wires and fuses are - gives you more arm room
•if you remove your cluster you can see the bolts there for easy removal
Heater hoses, stock fuel lines, block ground, and starter install
•best to do while the motor is still on the lift and almost into the subframe
•these will be hard to do once the motor is actually in the car
tags 1jzgte, 1jz, 1jz gte, auto, torque converter, stall converter,
Busy busy weekend,
[SIZE="4"]Built auto Transmission time![/SIZE]
So my 3000 1jzgte torque converter finally came in from Australia after about 2 weeks of being lost from usps
I did alot of reading on the Bethpage, NY page that place is apparently a hell hole for packages, just glad this one didn't end up on the lost list
Dropped the transmission off the engine, filled this bad boy up with a quart of Toyoyta Type T-IV atf fluid, put the transmission back on,bolted the converter to the drive plate. my engine is good to go in the shell now
My new transcooler came in also - cx racing 16 row transmission cooler - $65
Product Info and Spec:
Overall Size: 11.50x8.25x2 inch
Core Size: 9.5x8.25x2 inch
Inlet & Outlet: An 8
Inlet Outlet Center Distance: 8.25"
Rows: 16
Material: 100% Aluminum
I use a 6-an steel braided hose for my transmission lines, so I had to get 8-an to 6-an reducers for this one. Also took the compressor and blew air into the cooler for any metal shavings. Can't be too safe with these chinese mass produced products.
My transmission specs for those who maybe interested
•upgraded raybestos high energy clutches
•superior shift kit
•re-pressurized and rebuilt valve body
•6-an steel braided lines to replace the stock transmission lines
•bypassed radiator cooler to an external transmission cooler
•Cost to do this was under $600-$700 with labor
Future plans for the trans
•is300 transmission fluid pump - if this one starts to weaken
•gs300 transmission pan
•electric fan to come on when the fluid is running hot
•paint it orange lol
[SIZE="4"]New shell time![/SIZE]
As much pain as it is to swap out throttle cable to the gte one, I managed to get it in.
Without the interior and engine the shell was pretty easy to push with help of course.
Wrapped my T4 manifold with titanium exhaust wrap while I was at it
•checked it for holes and cracks before putting it back on and wrapping it , only found one tiny little hole. Got the hole welded so she is good to go
While the engine was out. I did a few things, this makes a huge difference on how smoothly the motor goes in
•Installed solid steering bushings
•Removed the evap canister and routed the inlet hose into the fender well
•connect missing hoses for the heater hoses and brake cylinder
•installed new motor mounts
•installed new transmission mounts
•cleaned the motor with a pressure washer of course avoiding the spark plugs, alternator, and fuel injectors
Before the crash I did refresh the engine
•new timing belt
•new water pump
•new rear main seal
•new front main seal
•new cam seals
•new valve cover seals
That is all for now, the engine and trans is bolted to the car, along with the stock feed and return lines, the starter nut, and big block ground
Left to do
•Lots of heater hoses and vacuum lines need to be reconnected
•harness still needs to be run into the car and ecu
•my 6262 precision turbo is still at precision for its rebuild
•need to order a new ac condenser
•cooling system/radiator will be installed after ac condenser is installed
•still need to run a long wire to the ignition for the car to fire up
•install drive shaft
Some tips for the new guys doing jz swaps into their cars
GTE throttle cable swap
•remove the front seats for laying room
•lay your body towards the kicker panel where your wires and fuses are - gives you more arm room
•if you remove your cluster you can see the bolts there for easy removal
Heater hoses, stock fuel lines, block ground, and starter install
•best to do while the motor is still on the lift and almost into the subframe
•these will be hard to do once the motor is actually in the car
tags 1jzgte, 1jz, 1jz gte, auto, torque converter, stall converter,
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 02:42 PM.
#24
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Looking good. I really dig what you did with the heat shield in the interior. Does the reflectix you bought have adhesive on the back side? Seems like it really conformed well to the floor shape but maybe you just cut small pieces and used tape to hold it? Either way it looks really good, nice work!
Any special plans as far as the AC condenser go? RockAuto has an OEM style replacement for $109. I need one as well so that's what I was gaming for. Good luck on the rest. Labor of love!
Any special plans as far as the AC condenser go? RockAuto has an OEM style replacement for $109. I need one as well so that's what I was gaming for. Good luck on the rest. Labor of love!
#25
[SIZE="5"]Interior built part 2 - Dyeing carpet[/SIZE]
Ran across an idea along time ago I always wanted to try oddly enough I saw this in the supra forums
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...Carpets-Black-
Too bad this took two tries
So here it is
[SIZE="4"]dyeing the tan carpet and floor mats black using rit dye![/SIZE]
To do this I bought a few things from walmart
10 x 8oz liquid rit dye - $2.98 x 10 = $30
6 x powder rit dye - $1.77 x 6 = 10.62
3 x salt - $0.55 x 3 = $1.65
Instructions are simple
•clean carpet and floormats
•clean container large enough to fit carpet
•fill with hot water with dye and salt
I used my water heater to fill it with hot water, you're suppose to purge it once a year anyways
[SIZE="4"]Attempt 1 - Fail attempt[/SIZE]
First attempt I tried using one of the large trash cans that you pull out to the curb
After cleaning it the carpet and floor mats fit very nicely
What I failed to realize was that the metal bar in the trash can is not actually sealed and made a huge mess. Sadly no pictures were taken because I couldn't see my cement was black and actually slightly tinted the white cement lmfao.
Lost about 4 liquid bottles and 4 powder dyes
[SIZE="4"]Attempt 2 - in progresss[/SIZE]
Second attempt I found a large plastic drum sitting in my storage I wasn't using. No way to leak here
The carpet all nice and snug in the barrel. Used my old torque converter to keep the carpet down lol
As for wait time? patrick would say
Will wait till sometime next weeks to pull this out and post results - need to find something to cover it with.
Ran across an idea along time ago I always wanted to try oddly enough I saw this in the supra forums
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...Carpets-Black-
Too bad this took two tries
So here it is
[SIZE="4"]dyeing the tan carpet and floor mats black using rit dye![/SIZE]
To do this I bought a few things from walmart
10 x 8oz liquid rit dye - $2.98 x 10 = $30
6 x powder rit dye - $1.77 x 6 = 10.62
3 x salt - $0.55 x 3 = $1.65
Instructions are simple
•clean carpet and floormats
•clean container large enough to fit carpet
•fill with hot water with dye and salt
I used my water heater to fill it with hot water, you're suppose to purge it once a year anyways
[SIZE="4"]Attempt 1 - Fail attempt[/SIZE]
First attempt I tried using one of the large trash cans that you pull out to the curb
After cleaning it the carpet and floor mats fit very nicely
What I failed to realize was that the metal bar in the trash can is not actually sealed and made a huge mess. Sadly no pictures were taken because I couldn't see my cement was black and actually slightly tinted the white cement lmfao.
Lost about 4 liquid bottles and 4 powder dyes
[SIZE="4"]Attempt 2 - in progresss[/SIZE]
Second attempt I found a large plastic drum sitting in my storage I wasn't using. No way to leak here
The carpet all nice and snug in the barrel. Used my old torque converter to keep the carpet down lol
As for wait time? patrick would say
Will wait till sometime next weeks to pull this out and post results - need to find something to cover it with.
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 02:45 PM.
#26
Looking good. I really dig what you did with the heat shield in the interior. Does the reflectix you bought have adhesive on the back side? Seems like it really conformed well to the floor shape but maybe you just cut small pieces and used tape to hold it? Either way it looks really good, nice work!
Any special plans as far as the AC condenser go? RockAuto has an OEM style replacement for $109. I need one as well so that's what I was gaming for. Good luck on the rest. Labor of love!
Any special plans as far as the AC condenser go? RockAuto has an OEM style replacement for $109. I need one as well so that's what I was gaming for. Good luck on the rest. Labor of love!
put my seats back in to see in there would be an issue and there wasn't, still contemplating putting qmat or sound deadener on top of the reflectrix
I was just looking at that denso replacement, will probably end up getting that, can't beat that name
#28
Did some more finicking and engine clutter management,
I saw this on SSmith's build thread and though this was genius
reusing the evap canister bracket to mount the catch can. Just drilled some holes and bam looks oem
I saw this on SSmith's build thread and though this was genius
reusing the evap canister bracket to mount the catch can. Just drilled some holes and bam looks oem
Last edited by chnk; 05-17-18 at 02:47 PM.