xHyaku's UZS160: The Battleship
#16
Driver
Thread Starter
One of my good buddies dropped by with his air compressor. We went to town and pulled out the a650e. Removing it was a breeze with air tools... I need to invest in an air compressor.
The a650e sitting next to the r154. The plan was to test fit the r154 this weekend, but my swap parts havent come from 1uzfeswapkit.com yet. Oh well, at least most of the hard work was done. Also went to the junk yard and picked an SC parking brake, material is all chewed up, but whatever, racecar. You can see it resting on top of the flex plate.
The a650e sitting next to the r154. The plan was to test fit the r154 this weekend, but my swap parts havent come from 1uzfeswapkit.com yet. Oh well, at least most of the hard work was done. Also went to the junk yard and picked an SC parking brake, material is all chewed up, but whatever, racecar. You can see it resting on top of the flex plate.
#18
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks! Not really, only thing remotely close to power will be PPE headers. Keeping her close to stock for reliablility when I'm beating her on the track. If I do happen to blow her up, then we'll do some upgraded internals.
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
Small update,
After a month waiting for my 1uzfeswapkit.com 1uz to r154 swap kit, it finally arrived today!!
So first off, my experience with 1uzfeswapkit. After a week since payment, the only email I ever got was the inital order receipt. I let another week go by, and still nothing. I was giving them the benefit of the doubt. Finally on the third week I called and left a message, texted, emailed, and PM'd on Lextreme.com. I finally was able to get into contact with him through the PM. All this time, he ran out of R plates, and needed to buy more raw materials to make them. Okay, would have been nice to have been emailed this 2 weeks ago. Anywho, after that, I received my kit the next week. The only thing I didn't like was the lack of communication, but once initiated he kept up with the responses.
The plate was nice at first glance, but the 6 holes for the A650e bell housing weren't tapped all the way through. I had to run a bolt on the backside to open up the 2 accessible holes. My friend is using my tap and die set at the moment, so I won't be able to fix those this week. the ARP 4AG flywheel bolts are a nice touch. Lines and fittings look good. The bag of bolts were filled with 10.9 hardware.
I thought that it was a neat design to have the plate replace the front cover of the r154. I need to remind myself to buy a new front oil seal before bolting everyone up. The r154 is going to need a rebuild, when I pulled the front cover off, metal pieces fell out, I think it may be shift forks. Another delay.
Purdy. The remaining bolt holes are the ones that need to be tapped.
A650e bellhousing bolted onto the 1uzfeswapkit adapter plate that's bolted onto the r154.
Test fitting next week.
After a month waiting for my 1uzfeswapkit.com 1uz to r154 swap kit, it finally arrived today!!
So first off, my experience with 1uzfeswapkit. After a week since payment, the only email I ever got was the inital order receipt. I let another week go by, and still nothing. I was giving them the benefit of the doubt. Finally on the third week I called and left a message, texted, emailed, and PM'd on Lextreme.com. I finally was able to get into contact with him through the PM. All this time, he ran out of R plates, and needed to buy more raw materials to make them. Okay, would have been nice to have been emailed this 2 weeks ago. Anywho, after that, I received my kit the next week. The only thing I didn't like was the lack of communication, but once initiated he kept up with the responses.
The plate was nice at first glance, but the 6 holes for the A650e bell housing weren't tapped all the way through. I had to run a bolt on the backside to open up the 2 accessible holes. My friend is using my tap and die set at the moment, so I won't be able to fix those this week. the ARP 4AG flywheel bolts are a nice touch. Lines and fittings look good. The bag of bolts were filled with 10.9 hardware.
I thought that it was a neat design to have the plate replace the front cover of the r154. I need to remind myself to buy a new front oil seal before bolting everyone up. The r154 is going to need a rebuild, when I pulled the front cover off, metal pieces fell out, I think it may be shift forks. Another delay.
Purdy. The remaining bolt holes are the ones that need to be tapped.
A650e bellhousing bolted onto the 1uzfeswapkit adapter plate that's bolted onto the r154.
Test fitting next week.
#20
Driver
Thread Starter
Drilled an inch and a half hole into my transmember today in order to clear my XM trans mount. :Cry:
I need to reinforce it for sure. So with the 1uzfeswapkit and the XM trans mount, you can reuse the original member in it's original orientation, meaning V8 facing towards the front of the car.
The GS has a huge trans tunnel. I had to massage (and by massage I mean destroy) my buddies Cressida to get his to fit. There's only one point that the r154 hits the tunnel, it's on the passenger side. Nothing a 4 pound sledge can't fix.
I'm planning to extend the shifter housing 4". It feels more natural in that area than having it come out of the AT shifter opening. Where I'm placing it will be 2-3/4" forward from the center of the AT shifter opening.
Update 11/09/15: (I made a hole in the trans tunnel so the transmission can clear with the 4" shifter extension. It now sits where it should. The old measurement was 58-1/8", which is wrong on my part.) Output shaft to diff flange length with this combo is 58-1/16".
Going to drop the trans tomorrow and then send it out for a rebuild!
I need to reinforce it for sure. So with the 1uzfeswapkit and the XM trans mount, you can reuse the original member in it's original orientation, meaning V8 facing towards the front of the car.
The GS has a huge trans tunnel. I had to massage (and by massage I mean destroy) my buddies Cressida to get his to fit. There's only one point that the r154 hits the tunnel, it's on the passenger side. Nothing a 4 pound sledge can't fix.
I'm planning to extend the shifter housing 4". It feels more natural in that area than having it come out of the AT shifter opening. Where I'm placing it will be 2-3/4" forward from the center of the AT shifter opening.
Update 11/09/15: (I made a hole in the trans tunnel so the transmission can clear with the 4" shifter extension. It now sits where it should. The old measurement was 58-1/8", which is wrong on my part.) Output shaft to diff flange length with this combo is 58-1/16".
Going to drop the trans tomorrow and then send it out for a rebuild!
Last edited by xHyaku; 11-09-15 at 06:08 AM. Reason: Updating information
#22
Driver
Thread Starter
#23
#24
Driver
Thread Starter
Right now, I'm not going to be focusing on finding a way to fix it because it's not going to be throwing a P0500 code when bypassing the NSS. One of the 2 criterias is that the NSS is off, but because we are bypassing it, the ecu is going to see that the "switch" is on the whole time.
I'm still confused as to how the vehicle tell's speed. I believe it's the wheel speed sensors, but when reffering to the system description from the repair manual it's pretty damn vague.
I believe the tran's VSS is only looking at the outout shaft speed to determine when to shift or when to put the trans into lock up.
From my experience I've had the speedo inop when I had two wheel speed sensors disconnected.
From all the research I've done, I stumbled onto Cartmill's SC 5 speed swap thread, where he was able to swap his 98' to 5 speed and everything was working besides the cruise control due to the VSS not being connected.
If it's just cruise control then I'm not going to bother since I don't have a cruise control stalk anymore.
#25
There are a lot of factors at play. In my province, for example, emissions testing is done through the OBD2 port and requires the ECU to be in a 'ready' state. The ECU needs to see a variety of speeds in order to get into that state. This means that if it is using the trans speed sensors (there are 2) to determine speed, they must be retrofitted (on the drive shaft, for example). Also, the ECU needs to receive a signal that the transmission is in drive, otherwise it likely won't begin testing.
I've heard some people driving while wired in neutral/park without issue, but others experienced hesitation. In any case, neutral likely won't work for me due to the readiness issues.
I've also read that the GS gets its speedo signal from the ABS system, but can't confirm.
I've heard some people driving while wired in neutral/park without issue, but others experienced hesitation. In any case, neutral likely won't work for me due to the readiness issues.
I've also read that the GS gets its speedo signal from the ABS system, but can't confirm.
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
There are a lot of factors at play. In my province, for example, emissions testing is done through the OBD2 port and requires the ECU to be in a 'ready' state. The ECU needs to see a variety of speeds in order to get into that state. This means that if it is using the trans speed sensors (there are 2) to determine speed, they must be retrofitted (on the drive shaft, for example). Also, the ECU needs to receive a signal that the transmission is in drive, otherwise it likely won't begin testing.
I've heard some people driving while wired in neutral/park without issue, but others experienced hesitation. In any case, neutral likely won't work for me due to the readiness issues.
I've also read that the GS gets its speedo signal from the ABS system, but can't confirm.
I've heard some people driving while wired in neutral/park without issue, but others experienced hesitation. In any case, neutral likely won't work for me due to the readiness issues.
I've also read that the GS gets its speedo signal from the ABS system, but can't confirm.
You're correct, I've read that the vvti's don't like seeing that it's in Neutral when the vehicle is driving under its own power. Although there's no proof that the ECU caps the RPMs to 4000, there's alot of posts on the V8 forums about this, but why take a chance?
I rigged up a 5 pin relay that will be wired into the SC hand brake as an on/off switch. Of course the hand brake will be powering up the coil side of the relay. When the vehicle is ready to start, engaging the hand brake will select "P" and when disengaging it will select "D" as shown below.
http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/ka...dohmy.mp4.html
The wiring wasn't hooked up to an SC hand brake, I was just grounding out the negative side of the coil. But that gives a good idea of how this is going to be wired up.
I'm not tricking the ECU, I'm just giving it the signals it wants to see.
If all goes well, I'll post up the wiring diagram that I've made. I don't want to post it up now and have someone destroy their ECU because I missed something.
Cheers Rich, hopefully something does come out of this thread to help everyone in the 2gs' V8 community.
Last edited by xHyaku; 09-29-15 at 11:17 AM.
#28
Driver
Thread Starter