Hayce

That's odd isn't? Are the tank or level senders different

jerimiah87

I did put the car on a rack and the vibration seems to be coming from the tranny and motor, not the driveline. I have not had time to run a full tank of gas. but I did run my return fuel line to the passenger side of my tank so I am hoping it helps eliminate that problem.

jerimiah87

I am leaning towards the torque converter not being balanced. What do you guys think of that being the problem?

jerimiah87

**Update** finally all done with this project. I will be going into detail about the problems no one else really states on this swap. The swap itself is pretty basic right? the car has a 2jz in it so it would be easy to put in a 2jzgte. This statement is pretty true, besides the fact it does not state all the little things to finish the swap. So for anybody doing this swap you really want to know what comes with your motor. The basics and required items you need to complete this swap. 1. the motor/ transmission as a whole 2. engine wiring harness 3. ECU/ ECM which ever one you would like it referred as. 4. igniter. These are the mandatory things you want to get because they are not easy accessible in the states. 5. MAF sensor. Now the small things you have to plan for a solution to, 1.Transmission oil cooler lines and oil cooler, 2, Inter-cooler. 3. power steering reservoir, 4. Fuel pump 5. Fuel return line and fittings 6. How to connect your drive line Hint- Do not use the Drift motion adapter, you need the rubber donuts unless you will have a bad vibration 7. Tachometer wire. 8 Connecting your exhaust. 9. Throttle cable and nuts to correctly set your idle. I am sure there is a couple more smaller things but for the most part these were the major problems I ran into. So I will go into detail on each one with the possible fixes and which one I chose and why.

Required Items:
1. You want the motor and transmission as a whole and hopefully not separated from each other. You will run into a chance of loosing some of the smaller vital parts If they are separated for shipping.

2. The engine wiring harness You will want because there is a difference between the JDM and USDM wiring harness. One misconception I was having is the US parts do not fit or work for the JDM specs. Your body harness will plug into and be compatible with this swap so you will not have to worry about anything there.

3. You will want the ECM/ECU because the ports are different then the US Supra so you cannot use anything else unless you spend the money on a wire harness to convert it or redo it yourself.
Aristo ECM/ECU Notice the gray plug does not get plugged in. This is your traction control from my understanding.
This is the wire spliced into for your Tach


4. The Ignitor you will want to make sure is included with your swap along with making sure it looks in good working order. I had temporarily lost mine and it was almost $700 to replace from a local Toyota Dealer and that is hoping it would work with the JDM harness. But thankfully I was finally able to find mine and it worked perfect.3
Not sure if this picture is from the lexus or toyota ignitor This is the wire to splice for your Tach



5. MAF sensor, this you will also want the JDM one hopefully included in your swap because you cannot use the US version. At least the 2 other ones I used would not let the car idle correctly. 
Mine was broken so I replaced the broken piece from the Lexus one


These were the items I was thankful to have in my swap due to the fact which I found out later was allot more cost effective to complete this swap. Now onto the smaller problems and the solutions I used.

1. Oil cooler: Thankfully the Single turbo conversion I purchased had several extra Items included with it and one of those Items was a Transmission Oil Cooler. I had some hoses made from a local fabrication shop which deals with allot of hydraulic machinery so this was an easy fix but they did charge an outrageous price for these hoses. I had 2 of them made out of a high heat resistance hose and the AN fittings to hook up to my Oil Cooler. These ran me just under $125 just so you have a price comparison. I'm sure there is some cheaper ones just in general lengths which would be the same quality I just wanted a perfect fit for mine.

2. Intercooler: My single turbo conversion kit saved me on the problem with the Inter-cooler to. I was provided with a FMIC which I installed instead of using the stock one which was not included in my swap. So it worked out perfectly for me.

3.Power steering reservoir: This was a problem because my swap did not come with this and I could not get my Lexus one to connect to it properly. I had an extra one from an old Chevy laying around so I made a mounting bracket for it and connected to the wheel wall and used hose clamps to connect the reservoir to the lines. I'm sure there is plenty of other ways to do this fix and you might have better luck then me at using the Lexus one. I just did the easiest solution I could find with the parts I had on hand.

4 and 5. Fuel Pump: This was a pretty easy fix/ modification I purchased an AEM fuel pump and installed it in place of the stock one. The only complicated part of this problem was running the fuel return line. I used just a standard rubber fuel line and ran it along side of the feed line up to the motor and connected it to the fuel rail. Then on top of the fuel pump I drilled a hole thru it and installed a nipple on there to connect my return line to. This can be drilled into any area of the fuel pump as long as there is nothing in the way. The trick to this is in the Lexus the fuel tank is split into 2 sections due to the hump of getting it over the driveline. So if you install the return line on your fuel pump you will have to learn how to correctly read your gas gauge due to the fact you will be sucking gas from the passenger side and returning it into the driver side so half of your tank will but overfilled and the passenger side could be completely empty.
The AEM pump which was installed This is the Fuel return fitting I drilled into the top right next to the feed line


6. Connecting Driveline: I have to give allot of support to Driftmotion and the products they sell pertaining to this swap. They have allot of excellent parts which is where I bought majority of all my smaller parts from. But the bad side to it is they have an adapter to go from the Aristo transmission and Lexus drive line which is solid aluminum. This is a great idea but I do not recommend it at all. These drive lines are made to have the rubber donuts that connect them for OEM standards which help with vibrations. So if you do not use the rubber donuts you will have a vibration. There is 2 solutions I heard for this problem the first is to take the front 2 pieces of the Aristo drive line and connect it to the rear piece of the Lexus drive line. The second solution is have a machine shop slot the rear output flange of the Aristo to match the bolt pattern of the Lexus. I chose the second option and took mine to a local Machine shop and they slot drilled it for me, this cost me $65 to have this done. This is one of the more conflicted topics due to the fact in pictures these output flanges look identical but in fact the Lexus bolt pattern is approximately 1/2 inch smaller then the Aristo.

Rubber Donut
Lexus Tail Flange
Toyota tail Flange


7. Tach Wire: The Tachometer wire is pretty simple you just have to locate the correct wire and splice into it so you can connect it to your igniter. There is plenty of threads which cover this. Tach wire splice into


8.The exhaust: is a nice easy problem because you can drop it off at a shop and they will deal with connecting it. This cost me $120 to have a shop do it and it was well worth every penny.

9.Throttle cable: this is another product I purchased from drift motion. The cable they have works perfect but it is a tad bit to long but it does get the job done so no major complaints of this product. It is said you can use the throttle cable from the SC300 which I have no idea if there is truth behind this. Drift motion offers a Toyota supra one which is the way I went. You cannot use your stock GS300 cable because it is too short.

I hope this sheds some light on the swap if you are thinking about doing this. I am sorry if I don't use the correct words to describe part. If you have any questions feel free to send me a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. By all means I am not a mechanic so I cannot offer any more information besides what I have dealt with.

Parts list of most items purchased:

Drift Motion:
Fuel Pump
Fuel Lines
Fuel fittings
Driveline Adapter ( Not Recommended to Use)
Throttle cable

Transstar Industries:
Correct Torque converter- it is ther TO88 model which will fit into the Aristo transmission

Speed-daddy.com
Several hoses
Turbo gaskets
Gauges
And plenty of misc items. This website has a huge variety with great prices.

This is the completed motor installed and running strong.


** Also If anybody in the states is having problems with there torque converter. The torque Converter that came in my model number 30-40LS transmission was marked with a 50A050 8H03P was replaced with a trans star industries TO88. This is a perfect fit and is a direct replacement for the stock one.

K3nnydie

So what was causing your engine to turn off After start up ? Because Im having the same problem with mind it Starts Up hesitate than turns right off.. Thanks

jerimiah87

It ended up being with the sensors and everything with the FMIC not being hooked up. Do you have your swap completely in? and if so can you feel me in on what you have completed towards your swap and hopefully I can help you.

K3nnydie

I have everything button up everything that was needed to be done for the swap . I started it again the other day ,But this time I kept MY Foot On the GAS PEDAL ALL THE WAY TOO THE FLOOR it STAYED RUNNING but it was Hesitating and Not Revving Up as soon as I let go the GAS Pedal it SHUT RIGHT OFF......... ALL I CAN THICK OFF IS MYBE THERE IS NO FUEL PRESSURE WHAT DO YOU THINK?

jerimiah87

I would check the fuel pressure, also make sure you swapped the fuel pump out with a rating for this motor. I used a 320lph for mine if that guces you a guideline. Also which throttle cable did you use? And did you adjust it so you have your correct idle RPM? If you have those 2 things lined up good my next thing would be to test your MAF sensor to make sure it is working correctly. Let me know if none of these fix it.

K3nnydie

Im using a Supra TT Denso pump , Im using a Supra TT Throttle cable, about adjusting the IDLE RPM you talking about adjusting the throttle cable? How would I Test my MAF sensor I have a reader what OHMS Im looking for? Thanks

jerimiah87

I am unsure on how to test the MAF you might wanna try to see if there is a thread on it somewhere. If you don't have any luck finding one let me know and I can do some tests on mine to see how it exactly works. And with the throttle cable adjust it with the idle nut that is located in the engine bay. I am running the Supra cable in mine and I had to adjust due to the fact it is still a little to long.

K3nnydie

its possible that it could be my MAF I had clean it with MAF Sensor Cleaner still the same all I need to do is test it to confirm its working properly ......

K3nnydie

OK i got good Fuel pressure but now I started it , but it will not start up and run it just turnover so does it has something to do with my MAF sensor being bad or my Throttle Body Sensor being bad what do you think ? Jerimiah87

jerimiah87

I would still lean towards the MAF sensor until you can find a way to test it. If you wanna run some tests on yours I can compare it to mine to see if they are the same. Also did you get your throttle cable adjusted correctly?

Sylvan

iTrader: (6)

It's nice to read about issues encountered while swapping. I just bought a running aristo and hopefully that has 98% of what I need... the throttle cable is something I hadn't considered

K3nnydie

I got the MAF sensor tested its working properly and had the Throttle cable Corrected . So I went and check for Sparks on Cylinder 1 before I crank it I unplug the harness wire from the Fuel Pump in the back Seat I put the Spark Plug in the spark plug wire and had it laying on Top of my Valve Cover and Started Cranking it for Spark before I knew it the Engine Started Right Up for 2 Second than died . Thats with the Spark Plug Out of Cylinder 1 and I Did had some Starter Fluid sprayed in there before I had unplugged the Fuel Pump Harness Wire.....