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I bought a '94 SC300 manual...

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Old 06-29-15, 09:15 PM
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Munch517
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Default I bought a '94 SC300 manual...

Continued from this thread: So I'm buying an SC300

I bought an SC300 today, a black 1994 model with a 5spd and 139k miles, it has a decent exterior with a somewhat rough interior. It seems like a fairly solid car but I feel like at $3500 for it I probably paid close to top dollar for the car in its condition. The good is whatever's not bad so...

The bad:
Drivers side door panel needs replacing
Gauge needles aren't lit (Is Tanin Auto the best option here?)
Climate control display is half black (Are there instructions somewhere to install http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1993-1994-1995-1996-Lexus-SC300-SC400-Climate-Control-glass-LCD-Screen-NEW-/230950417121?fits=Model%3ASC300Front seats, especially the bottoms, are ripped and cracked
There's a whirring sound coming through the stereo when accelerating, I'm assuming a ground issue?

I'm going to have the car run through by a mechanic, like I should have before I bought it, to tell me about all the little things. In the meantime I'm going to get the interior up to par since this is my second car and it can sit if it has to. Anyways, a few pictures below:















After or alongside fixing the broken things my plans are:
Performance oriented coilovers with a 1-2" drop
17" or 18" black rims or MkIV wheels
Upgraded brakes
Getting the engine up to around 400whp
I wish I could make the steering more responsive also, is that possible?

Thanks in advance for any advice/tips/tricks/etc...
Old 06-30-15, 12:53 AM
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KahnBB6
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Congratulations!

All In all, it looks pretty good for $3500. I think you did well and 139k original miles is not too bad.

I'll just touch briefly on your comments:

Originally Posted by Munch517
Drivers side door panel needs replacing
Try ebay first. Is it the complete back panel or just the raised map pocket section? The map pocket sides might still be available new but getting good used examples online are often a great option.

The arm rests on either side and the center console lid, if totally worn, I recommend you have recovered at an upholstery shop. At the one I used, we matched it to a leather coded "GL603 Ivory". I am not certain if the general leather was from Katzkin or another company.


Originally Posted by Munch517
Gauge needles aren't lit (Is Tanin Auto the best option here?)
Yes, absolutely. Tanin Auto has apparently been doing very good work with reasonable turnaround for many owners. They should be able to correct any issues with your needles and backlighting.

It's Lextech Lighting that you should absolutely avoid like the plague. DO NOT use them.

Originally Posted by Munch517
Climate control display is half black (Are there instructions somewhere to install this...
I believe there is a DIY here showing how to de-solder the climate screen and solder in a new one. Alternatively, there are places on ebay that do this service as well. I used one of those in 2010 but I can't recall who it was, sorry. I am not sure if Tanin does this service as well.

Originally Posted by Munch517
Front seats, especially the bottoms, are ripped and cracked
You'll have to get into reupholstering the seats or else locating another set of used seats with better condition leather. For recovering, I recommend an upholstery shop that will sells and installs Katzkin covers. Their product is very good, but it any of that will get pricey.

First, I would figure out if what you want is to keep the factory seats with all the nice power and memory options, or if you want a Supra style bucket (no memory, power driver's side, manual passenger side) instead which has better side bolstering.

Originally Posted by Munch517
There's a whirring sound coming through the stereo when accelerating, I'm assuming a ground issue?
This sounds like a ground issue. There is one ground on the left side of the factory stereo. It's possible to add a second ground to the right side very easily. Alternatively, see if the previous owner already installed an aux-in port (there is a DIY for this with factory Pioneer stereos-- if there is no "Nakamichi" logo on the unit face, then it's a Pioneer) and neglected to put a ground loop isolator in. Also, check the amplifier area in the trunk if that test fails.

Originally Posted by Munch517
I'm going to have the car run through by a mechanic, like I should have before I bought it, to tell me about all the little things. In the meantime I'm going to get the interior up to par since this is my second car and it can sit if it has to.
Always a good idea. And register at Lexus.com (free) to look up the car by VIN and view the last known records, unless the seller gave you paper maintenance records. You'll also be able to add your own maintenance records to the system as well. Those stay with the VIN from then on and are viewable at any Lexus dealer service computer. If you can't verify the timing belt and water pump have been done less than 60K miles ago, assume you'll need to address those.

Originally Posted by Munch517
After or alongside fixing the broken things my plans are:
Performance oriented coilovers with a 1-2" drop
17" or 18" black rims or MkIV wheels
Upgraded brakes
Getting the engine up to around 400whp
All good early performance goals. The first three are easy to decide on. The last one depends on how you want to go about getting 400whp. If you don't have strict emissions where you live, you have a lot of options at varying price points.


Originally Posted by Munch517
I wish I could make the steering more responsive also, is that possible?
You can't ever make the steering as responsive as a Miata, but you can bring it back into line:

First, you want a set of Daizen steering rack bushings:
http://www.daizensporttuning.com/pro...-bushings.html

From here:
http://www.tmengineering.net/suspens...n/make/sc.html

In the past, TM Engineering had some trouble getting stock in so perhaps call ahead just to make sure you won't be waiting for stock to show up. Alternatively I think Whiteline makes a set but try the Daizen parts first.

Second, you should not only check the alignment but the condition of your front lower control arms (LCA's). If those are worn, they can contribute to an unsettling "shimmy" feel on the highway and in turns at speed. Replacement for those are factory 1993-1996 Supra MKIV front lower control arms. They are cheaper than the Lexus parts and the rubber formulation is superior for handling and more durable. You would also get brand new ball joints with as a very positive side effect, since those are not serviceable.

Also, this is subjective and doesn't directly contribute to steering feel but you can also swap airbag equipped steering wheels with a few other Lexus models, notably the IS300/MR2 Spyder/Matrix XRS/Corolla XRS/'98 Supra. Those wheels sit in your hand differently than the factory SC wheel. Also, there was a factory three-spoke wheel on all 98-00 SC's.

Good luck and keep us posted! The interior TLC I expected but the car otherwise looks good!

Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-30-15 at 12:58 AM.
Old 06-30-15, 02:38 AM
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Munch517
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Originally Posted by KahnBB6
Congratulations!
Try ebay first. Is it the complete back panel or just the raised map pocket section? The map pocket sides might still be available new but getting good used examples online are often a great option.
I can't find any good drivers side examples, but I did find a thread on here about fixing the door panel, I have to look at mine closer and see if it'd work for me. That would be great.



First, I would figure out if what you want is to keep the factory seats with all the nice power and memory options, or if you want a Supra style bucket (no memory, power driver's side, manual passenger side) instead which has better side bolstering.
I love the idea of more side bolstering, but I'd need something to match the tan leather and that would look relatively stock. I was looking at some seat bottoms and backs on ebay, but I can't tell if they're heated or not. I was also looking at the leaterseat.com kits, which look interesting.


All good early performance goals. The first three are easy to decide on. The last one depends on how you want to go about getting 400whp. If you don't have strict emissions where you live, you have a lot of options at varying price points.
I live in Michigan, I'm not aware of any emissions controls at all. I simply have a rough idea of how much power I want, I'm on a budget but I'm open to any ideas. It'll be awhile before I get to boosting horsepower though.

I'm going to look into the steering rack bushing also, I don't know where it goes though. Is it easy to see when you have the part?
Old 06-30-15, 12:21 PM
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tsupra1822
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Welcome to the family, Hope everything goes well with you and your SC. Looking forward to seeing your progress on the SC.
Old 07-09-15, 01:23 AM
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Munch517
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I bought a non running sc400 for $350 off craigslist, but it had a black interior in very good shape. The only issues being the drivers seat has a few inches of seam separated on the bottom and both upper door trim pieces are cracked in the bottom middle. I have the black interior stripped and I have the dash and headliner installed in my car, I'm hoping to finish it on Saturday.

Pics of parts car before being scrapped:









The dash in:


The sunroof headliner and trim pieces didn't seem meant to come out and I didn't feel like swapping sunroofs. What products can you use to dye the headliner material on the sunroof visor and what do you use to paint the handle?

BTW, I'll have a full tan interior in hit or miss condition if someone wants to pick it up, I'm in Lansing, MI.

Last edited by Munch517; 07-09-15 at 01:44 AM.
Old 07-11-15, 06:57 PM
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My interior is in. I also picked up some get-me-by 16" wheels with brand new tires on them for cheap, they're not great but they're much better than the stock rims with winter tires that came on it. Altogether it probably took about 25-30 hours to remove two interiors and put one back in. Now I just need money to do everything else I need to.














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