1992 SC-300 2JZGTE swap year 2
03-22-15, 07:14 PM
#121
I'm glad to help! I can take pictures of anything else you need. Yes, that design choice is something else. When I get to the point you're at I hope I don't find I have any worn solenoids.
I dunno... maybe they can be reconditioned...? Lots of people are driving around with JDM and USDM twins, some with the hybrid GT28 upgrade. Surely we can do something about the actuators...
I hope this doesn't pose a problem for you tomorrow but if the emissions system is working as it should you are probably fine. From what I've been told, on an emissions dyno the way the engine is barely loaded it won't build much boost at all.
Very interested in your experience tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I can't think of anything you haven't done. Good luck!!
I dunno... maybe they can be reconditioned...? Lots of people are driving around with JDM and USDM twins, some with the hybrid GT28 upgrade. Surely we can do something about the actuators...
I hope this doesn't pose a problem for you tomorrow but if the emissions system is working as it should you are probably fine. From what I've been told, on an emissions dyno the way the engine is barely loaded it won't build much boost at all.
Very interested in your experience tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I can't think of anything you haven't done. Good luck!!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-22-15 at 07:20 PM.
03-23-15, 04:53 AM
#122
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That's my thinking as well…. nada mucho boost no EXTRA lean…..
All codes are GONE ( Phew )
So it comes down to
FMIC pass or fail.. and the word I got if there are no odd ball sensors ( non factory ) we "SHOULD" be ok.
Charcoal canister ( original Lexus one ) Pass Fail and or Tank pressure test.
We have ( to the best of my knowledge ) have EVRY LAST connector for the engine factory harness going SOMEWHERE or to SOMETHING. So if we missed something it will be a revelation
We DO have a charge light on the dash on ( but the battery system is still charging properly )…..
So fingers crossed..
If nothing else if we FAIL at least David will get a 60 day pit pass instead of the single 24 hr ones
The appt is at 9:00am
All codes are GONE ( Phew )
So it comes down to
FMIC pass or fail.. and the word I got if there are no odd ball sensors ( non factory ) we "SHOULD" be ok.
Charcoal canister ( original Lexus one ) Pass Fail and or Tank pressure test.
We have ( to the best of my knowledge ) have EVRY LAST connector for the engine factory harness going SOMEWHERE or to SOMETHING. So if we missed something it will be a revelation
We DO have a charge light on the dash on ( but the battery system is still charging properly )…..
So fingers crossed..
If nothing else if we FAIL at least David will get a 60 day pit pass instead of the single 24 hr ones
The appt is at 9:00am
03-23-15, 12:07 PM
#123
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MISSED BY A HAIR
Failed mechanical for:
1) ( 2 missing VSV ) Shipment didn't arrive on time
2) They POO-POO'ed the piping & couplings from the air filter to MAF to Intake.
3) There was am AIR FILTER inline with the vac line going to the charcoal canister even though we passed EVAP.
4) The location of the rear O2 sensor, They believe the O2 sensor is in the nose of the main cat ours is 2" in front of it on the pipe.
AND WE PASSED EMISSIONS !
So I have to do some R&D with Magna flow get AIR HOSES for the intake, remove a filter from the LEXUS EVAP canister. bolt in the 2 VSV's and we are GOLD !
No issue on the FMIC ( or the hoses ) ….
The Ref's were actually IMPRESSED we were SO CLOSE on the FIRST GO !
WOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOO
Failed mechanical for:
1) ( 2 missing VSV ) Shipment didn't arrive on time
2) They POO-POO'ed the piping & couplings from the air filter to MAF to Intake.
3) There was am AIR FILTER inline with the vac line going to the charcoal canister even though we passed EVAP.
4) The location of the rear O2 sensor, They believe the O2 sensor is in the nose of the main cat ours is 2" in front of it on the pipe.
AND WE PASSED EMISSIONS !
So I have to do some R&D with Magna flow get AIR HOSES for the intake, remove a filter from the LEXUS EVAP canister. bolt in the 2 VSV's and we are GOLD !
No issue on the FMIC ( or the hoses ) ….
The Ref's were actually IMPRESSED we were SO CLOSE on the FIRST GO !
WOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOO
03-23-15, 02:07 PM
#124
vigman, that's great news!!
So they had NO problem with the JDM engine block or FMIC and the wiring you so painstakingly completed. That's fantastic!!!
Not that it factors into anything about the car but did you find them reasonable to work with at your appointment? It sounds like they were strict but very helpful.
Which VSV's were you missing? I assume this means you have to have the sequential system in fully working order in order to pass their muster.
Glad to hear you passed emissions! That's the big one.
Now as to the intake to the MAF, are you missing the factory intake tube? Or did they just not like the type of clamps you used? I have three of the OEM rubber intake tubes. I only need one primary and one as a spare. Do you need one?
Overall... I'm happy to hear this news! You and your son are very, very close to the goal! It gives me hope.
So they had NO problem with the JDM engine block or FMIC and the wiring you so painstakingly completed. That's fantastic!!!
Not that it factors into anything about the car but did you find them reasonable to work with at your appointment? It sounds like they were strict but very helpful.
Which VSV's were you missing? I assume this means you have to have the sequential system in fully working order in order to pass their muster.
Glad to hear you passed emissions! That's the big one.
Now as to the intake to the MAF, are you missing the factory intake tube? Or did they just not like the type of clamps you used? I have three of the OEM rubber intake tubes. I only need one primary and one as a spare. Do you need one?
Overall... I'm happy to hear this news! You and your son are very, very close to the goal! It gives me hope.
03-23-15, 05:06 PM
#125
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It's a funny thing.....
The intercoolers had ALL KINDS of silicone clamps , couplings , non stock brackets.. and they didn't bat an eye. The RULE is if the car ( powerplant ) had one it needs one......
BUT
When it came to the air intake they wanted a " matching " system...
Our "PLAN" is to get the Factory manifold to MAF hose ( $105.00 GAH )
and they would be OK with the K&N direct to the MAF IF it was well anchored and did have MULTI COLORED silicone.
YES the people at PIERCE are very reasonable but DO have the rules.. So FACTORY is the anchor point.
They didn't LOOK for the block being JDM.
The VSV's were FPR & EGR ( needed to finish up the brackets )
The intercoolers had ALL KINDS of silicone clamps , couplings , non stock brackets.. and they didn't bat an eye. The RULE is if the car ( powerplant ) had one it needs one......
BUT
When it came to the air intake they wanted a " matching " system...
Our "PLAN" is to get the Factory manifold to MAF hose ( $105.00 GAH )
and they would be OK with the K&N direct to the MAF IF it was well anchored and did have MULTI COLORED silicone.
YES the people at PIERCE are very reasonable but DO have the rules.. So FACTORY is the anchor point.
They didn't LOOK for the block being JDM.
The VSV's were FPR & EGR ( needed to finish up the brackets )
03-23-15, 05:10 PM
#126
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So NOW the big " question" in the ref's opinion is the SUPRA rear O2 is IN the input bell flange of the cat....
So I spoke with Magna flow... and have a catalog of what I HAVE
To compare I need to find (In a perfect world ) a cut away of the FACTORY supra rear cat.. or some CLOSE shots.
So I spoke with Magna flow... and have a catalog of what I HAVE
To compare I need to find (In a perfect world ) a cut away of the FACTORY supra rear cat.. or some CLOSE shots.
03-23-15, 11:25 PM
#129
Up to you as having a new one isn't a bad plan either. I bought a new one to save for a rainy day in case one of my two older ones broke.Gotcha on the VSVs. Glad you at least found one for the EGR.
So NOW the big " question" in the ref's opinion is the SUPRA rear O2 is IN the input bell flange of the cat....
So I spoke with Magna flow... and have a catalog of what I HAVE
To compare I need to find (In a perfect world ) a cut away of the FACTORY supra rear cat.. or some CLOSE shots.
So I spoke with Magna flow... and have a catalog of what I HAVE
To compare I need to find (In a perfect world ) a cut away of the FACTORY supra rear cat.. or some CLOSE shots.
Excellent!! Did someone on SF hook you up?
03-24-15, 06:03 AM
#130
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1) The "Line" from the REF's.. on an engine swap NO ONE PASSES the FIRST TIME OUT.. I would go as CUSTOM as you dare because ONCE you get the under hood sticker.. that is how the swap is documented.
So in 2 years ( or longer ) and the car get's FAILED for a mechanical issue by " DUDE smog for $ 20 bucks' you have some traction to flip that around then & there… It happened to me on my 300 ZX TT swap !!!
2) YES PLEASE send me PIX of your intake hoses !!!!
3) Remember these Ref's deal with … really uneducated automotive people and self made attorneys .
It's REALLY a treat for them to see someone doing a swap ( and this is NOT a popular So Cal swap, read VERY rare ) .. and done CORRECTLY.. They EXPECT a bunch of non working, E bay esque, POLISHED JUNK under the hood.. so that makes em look HARDER… Until they see.. WOAH this IS factory.. AND works… you could just see the WHOLE mood change as they went in. The BLOCK is such a non issue.. it's all the SUPPORT gear .. and they had NO ISSUE ( well didn't mention ) that we had JDM turbos and BOOST only comes into play on the dyno test ( tail pipe emissions ) as the OPERATOR tried to get the car UP to 15 or 25 MPH and gets a bit heavy footed… but once he is in the ZONE of 15 or 25 MPH Boost is NOT in play…
4) NO cutting needed.. our " issue " is on the rear ONLY.. so a few tight shots of the O2 mounting and the HOLE ( showing any angles ) would be of GREAT HELP. That way IF we have to reposition the O2 to make the Ref's HAPPY ( using the 3" rule ) AND a ruler or tape in the shot will help YOU, ME and OTHERS..
5) David's PLAN is he is not ( NOW ) going to replace the the actuator but MOD to true twin ( non sequential ) which will not use that actuator… (I'm not sure of the details on the plumbing ) And it was Aaron at Driftmotion who had the goods…
Mike
( Vigman@earthlink.net )
So in 2 years ( or longer ) and the car get's FAILED for a mechanical issue by " DUDE smog for $ 20 bucks' you have some traction to flip that around then & there… It happened to me on my 300 ZX TT swap !!!
2) YES PLEASE send me PIX of your intake hoses !!!!
3) Remember these Ref's deal with … really uneducated automotive people and self made attorneys .
It's REALLY a treat for them to see someone doing a swap ( and this is NOT a popular So Cal swap, read VERY rare ) .. and done CORRECTLY.. They EXPECT a bunch of non working, E bay esque, POLISHED JUNK under the hood.. so that makes em look HARDER… Until they see.. WOAH this IS factory.. AND works… you could just see the WHOLE mood change as they went in. The BLOCK is such a non issue.. it's all the SUPPORT gear .. and they had NO ISSUE ( well didn't mention ) that we had JDM turbos and BOOST only comes into play on the dyno test ( tail pipe emissions ) as the OPERATOR tried to get the car UP to 15 or 25 MPH and gets a bit heavy footed… but once he is in the ZONE of 15 or 25 MPH Boost is NOT in play…
4) NO cutting needed.. our " issue " is on the rear ONLY.. so a few tight shots of the O2 mounting and the HOLE ( showing any angles ) would be of GREAT HELP. That way IF we have to reposition the O2 to make the Ref's HAPPY ( using the 3" rule ) AND a ruler or tape in the shot will help YOU, ME and OTHERS..
5) David's PLAN is he is not ( NOW ) going to replace the the actuator but MOD to true twin ( non sequential ) which will not use that actuator… (I'm not sure of the details on the plumbing ) And it was Aaron at Driftmotion who had the goods…
Mike
( Vigman@earthlink.net )
03-24-15, 02:33 PM
#131
1) The "Line" from the REF's.. on an engine swap NO ONE PASSES the FIRST TIME OUT.. I would go as CUSTOM as you dare because ONCE you get the under hood sticker.. that is how the swap is documented.
So in 2 years ( or longer ) and the car get's FAILED for a mechanical issue by " DUDE smog for $ 20 bucks' you have some traction to flip that around then & there… It happened to me on my 300 ZX TT swap !!!
So in 2 years ( or longer ) and the car get's FAILED for a mechanical issue by " DUDE smog for $ 20 bucks' you have some traction to flip that around then & there… It happened to me on my 300 ZX TT swap !!!
Might have to see about the Racelogic traction controller and Popformance digital climate screen too. I'll have a boost controller eventually but not at the start. I also have a Greddy BCC for the ECU but I probably shouldn't hook that up before the test.
From left: 1x brand new in bag, 2x used in OK condition. Note how the ribbed section is in a slightly different location for each. They are all the same diameter and have the same bends. The clamp rings are original. I might want to order a new set... assuming they are still available. Interestingly, GE engines use more common screw-clamp rings similar to what you get at hardware stores. I can't see why you'd need the these specific clamps.
Still... it's not a bad idea to buy a new one. If the car will be on the road as long as you plan it to be it would be a good insurance policy to have tucked away. That's what I'm doing.
3) Remember these Ref's deal with … really uneducated automotive people and self made attorneys .
It's REALLY a treat for them to see someone doing a swap ( and this is NOT a popular So Cal swap, read VERY rare ) .. and done CORRECTLY.. They EXPECT a bunch of non working, E bay esque, POLISHED JUNK under the hood.. so that makes em look HARDER… Until they see.. WOAH this IS factory.. AND works… you could just see the WHOLE mood change as they went in. The BLOCK is such a non issue.. it's all the SUPPORT gear .. and they had NO ISSUE ( well didn't mention ) that we had JDM turbos and BOOST only comes into play on the dyno test ( tail pipe emissions ) as the OPERATOR tried to get the car UP to 15 or 25 MPH and gets a bit heavy footed… but once he is in the ZONE of 15 or 25 MPH Boost is NOT in play…
It's REALLY a treat for them to see someone doing a swap ( and this is NOT a popular So Cal swap, read VERY rare ) .. and done CORRECTLY.. They EXPECT a bunch of non working, E bay esque, POLISHED JUNK under the hood.. so that makes em look HARDER… Until they see.. WOAH this IS factory.. AND works… you could just see the WHOLE mood change as they went in. The BLOCK is such a non issue.. it's all the SUPPORT gear .. and they had NO ISSUE ( well didn't mention ) that we had JDM turbos and BOOST only comes into play on the dyno test ( tail pipe emissions ) as the OPERATOR tried to get the car UP to 15 or 25 MPH and gets a bit heavy footed… but once he is in the ZONE of 15 or 25 MPH Boost is NOT in play…
Yes, there shouldn't be any boost fed into the intake unless when holding at a set speed like that. This pretty much says to me that I can go any way I need to, which right now is to use my current NA block in the car with a 2.0mm head gasket and oil feed line from the oil cooler. I can keep my current A/C system, tap the oil pan for return and just change the oil pump and assemble the rest up top.
4) NO cutting needed.. our " issue " is on the rear ONLY.. so a few tight shots of the O2 mounting and the HOLE ( showing any angles ) would be of GREAT HELP. That way IF we have to reposition the O2 to make the Ref's HAPPY ( using the 3" rule ) AND a ruler or tape in the shot will help YOU, ME and OTHERS.
I think this is one method you can use to have TTC mode and Sequential mode switchable:
http://97supraturbo.com/Seq%20FAQ/ETTC%20Mod.JPG
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-24-15 at 02:38 PM.