1992 SC-300 2JZGTE swap year 2
04-27-15, 08:45 PM
#181
Craig,
Yeah it's just FUN with electronics to get that over the top for the AC.. and I already have a " work around" for when it gets HOT !!! Yes no follow up on the " Stock air cleaner " since were now BLESSED BUT THANK YOU for the R & D on that.
Now is just cleaning up the garage so I can get to MY STUFF ~
Yeah it's just FUN with electronics to get that over the top for the AC.. and I already have a " work around" for when it gets HOT !!! Yes no follow up on the " Stock air cleaner " since were now BLESSED BUT THANK YOU for the R & D on that.
Now is just cleaning up the garage so I can get to MY STUFF ~
I hope you've been able to make progress on the A/C issue.
Just an update...... everything is just breaking in fine... the top end is a LITTLE ticky... but I'm picking pepper outta fly-stuff... David is putting in silicone hoses and a boost controller.... cleaning... modding and having a great time with his new toy. It fires right up..idles SMOOTH and is now in daily driver status.
And be careful about adding too much boost with those JDM turbos. With the factory ceramic compressor blades they can't be safely pushed as far as the USDM turbos can.
The good news is that if you both ever want to have a 99% factory looking GT28 upgrade performed to them it's a great deal cheaper than having the same upgrade done to the USDM twin turbos.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 04-27-15 at 08:52 PM.
05-18-15, 05:35 AM
#182
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So Minor updates....
Charge light now working ( LED was in backwards ) ....
Car's running SMOOOOOOTHHH like butter.
Did it's first oil change/ coolant change...
Oil was still REALLY clean after 3K miles...
Coolant was a bit BROWN ( assuming scale from block and other internal metal bits ).
Replaced bearing for belt tension idler ( that stopped tensioner jerkyness ) .
The engine has ZERO leaks, the valve train is now VERY QUIET.
It starts on the first roll....And runs like a raped ape ~
Still have the AC head issue....
Mike
Charge light now working ( LED was in backwards ) ....
Car's running SMOOOOOOTHHH like butter.
Did it's first oil change/ coolant change...
Oil was still REALLY clean after 3K miles...
Coolant was a bit BROWN ( assuming scale from block and other internal metal bits ).
Replaced bearing for belt tension idler ( that stopped tensioner jerkyness ) .
The engine has ZERO leaks, the valve train is now VERY QUIET.
It starts on the first roll....And runs like a raped ape ~
Still have the AC head issue....
Mike
08-24-15, 06:38 AM
#185
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We have been battling heating issues... We have a new Mishimoto radiator.. and bought the shround and dual fan kit ( waste of $$$ ) we HAD G-35 fans in there and that worked OK...
So we UPGRADED the electric fans in the MIshi " kit " still SUCKED.... So we went stock... much Much MUCH better.... and just installed the 8" electric factory AC boost ( cooling ) fan... last thing to do is go BACK to the stock stat..... MORNING UPDATE... David went for a NICE RIDE last night and lost a motor mount ... and damaged the shroud WHOOPS....
So we UPGRADED the electric fans in the MIshi " kit " still SUCKED.... So we went stock... much Much MUCH better.... and just installed the 8" electric factory AC boost ( cooling ) fan... last thing to do is go BACK to the stock stat..... MORNING UPDATE... David went for a NICE RIDE last night and lost a motor mount ... and damaged the shroud WHOOPS....
08-24-15, 12:45 PM
#186
Ouch! You guys have had enough to deal with already. Good to hear you've got most of the new gremlins covered already though. I have a new harmonic balancer waiting to go in but now you've got me even more certain that I should just order new TT engine mounts also.
As for the cooling... yeah, Mishimoto and Koyo (but not Fluidyne) seem to be the most reliable choices for radiators. And that little auxiliary A/C cooling fan all 93-96 (and factory dual fans for 97-98) TT's came with is apparently necessary to keep the A/C happy in stop and go traffic.
The stock mechanical fan is supposed to flow the most CFM of all but the most reliable electric fan setup is supposed to be the stock setup from the IS300 which is what some Supra guys use. Not sure if it's ideal for heavily modified single turbo cars but you and David aren't doing that anyway.
Sucks about the thermostat too. I think you've both had enough for a while. Be nice to them, Car
As for the cooling... yeah, Mishimoto and Koyo (but not Fluidyne) seem to be the most reliable choices for radiators. And that little auxiliary A/C cooling fan all 93-96 (and factory dual fans for 97-98) TT's came with is apparently necessary to keep the A/C happy in stop and go traffic.
The stock mechanical fan is supposed to flow the most CFM of all but the most reliable electric fan setup is supposed to be the stock setup from the IS300 which is what some Supra guys use. Not sure if it's ideal for heavily modified single turbo cars but you and David aren't doing that anyway.
Sucks about the thermostat too. I think you've both had enough for a while. Be nice to them, Car
08-03-17, 01:20 AM
#187
Mike,
I've come much closer with my USDM swap engine nearing completion and I've stressed a bit about the dash temperature gauge situation. I've been considering an electric VDO water temperature gauge installed in the dash console area as an alternative.
I reviewed your investigative notes a few pages back... and then I stumbled across this post by Phil Auldridge. This fellow did the USDM 2JZGTE swap several years ago with his SC300 5-speed and wrote a manual on the entire wiring process-- much in the same way you did
He suggests using an in-line resistor at the wire and connector that plugs into the factory SC300 temp gauge in the cluster. 330 ohm is what he primarily suggests but states that some experimentation with other resistance values might be needed for some cars.
What do you think?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post2090360
I've come much closer with my USDM swap engine nearing completion and I've stressed a bit about the dash temperature gauge situation. I've been considering an electric VDO water temperature gauge installed in the dash console area as an alternative.
I reviewed your investigative notes a few pages back... and then I stumbled across this post by Phil Auldridge. This fellow did the USDM 2JZGTE swap several years ago with his SC300 5-speed and wrote a manual on the entire wiring process-- much in the same way you did
He suggests using an in-line resistor at the wire and connector that plugs into the factory SC300 temp gauge in the cluster. 330 ohm is what he primarily suggests but states that some experimentation with other resistance values might be needed for some cars.
It IS common to have discrepancies with coolant temperature with the Supra swap. My guess is that your temp gage goes right to the top of the scale soon after warmup?
I have found through experimentation that a 330 ohm resistor, wired inline in the temp sender wire, brings the temp voltage to the proper level so that normal operation shows mid-scale. You can either wire in the resistor under the hood near the temp sensor at the front of the engine, or find the same wire where it goes into the ECU under passenger floorboard. This would be the Blue/Yellow wire which is connected between the old Supra connector II1pin 19 (I'm assuming you are using the Supra ECU?) and the Lexus connector IK1 pin 9.
Other swappers have reported to me using slightly different resistance values. Just go to Radio Shack and buy a handful of resistors with values between, say 75 ohm and 500 ohm, and then just experiment until you get a reasonable gage reading.
I have found through experimentation that a 330 ohm resistor, wired inline in the temp sender wire, brings the temp voltage to the proper level so that normal operation shows mid-scale. You can either wire in the resistor under the hood near the temp sensor at the front of the engine, or find the same wire where it goes into the ECU under passenger floorboard. This would be the Blue/Yellow wire which is connected between the old Supra connector II1pin 19 (I'm assuming you are using the Supra ECU?) and the Lexus connector IK1 pin 9.
Other swappers have reported to me using slightly different resistance values. Just go to Radio Shack and buy a handful of resistors with values between, say 75 ohm and 500 ohm, and then just experiment until you get a reasonable gage reading.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post2090360
Last edited by KahnBB6; 08-03-17 at 01:33 AM.
08-03-17, 02:28 AM
#188
Craig - I have 4 SCs with gte swaps now but they are all from JDM aristo swaps. Even if I have two aftermarket coolant temp gauges on two of them , I still enabled all the cluster temp gauges and they never go above the halfway mark.
Wondering if what you are saying is just for USDM gte swaps ? Though I am pretty sure I have two of those SCs in which I am using the USDM gte coolant gauge sender. And I never use any resistor in between. The USDM gte gauge sender has the half moon shaped connector and the JDM gte gauge senders have the spade connector.
Wondering if what you are saying is just for USDM gte swaps ? Though I am pretty sure I have two of those SCs in which I am using the USDM gte coolant gauge sender. And I never use any resistor in between. The USDM gte gauge sender has the half moon shaped connector and the JDM gte gauge senders have the spade connector.
08-03-17, 04:10 AM
#189
Gerry,
I was going to ask you about this later today but you beat me to it
I think it may affect all JDM 2JZGTE, 1JZGTE and USDM 2JZGTE swaps into SC's... and possibly other cars such as the IS300's.
I went through two incorrect coolant gauge sensors last month before finding the correct one with the half moon shaped connector exactly as you described.
Later I'll have to quote post Mike's research on the resistance values at the SC's cluster gauge back earlier in this thread. I think he had a similar result with his gauge going to only 1/3 or so when just plugging it in.
I'm willing to try the 330 ohm resistor method for the dash gauge but I'm also open to installing a second coolant gauge sensor (anywhere that the BAR will accept...) and running that into either my LXCC controller or an aftermarket VDO coolant temp gauge.
I'm already plannng to allow for three VDO 52mm gauges in one of the stereo panels in the "CAD Sharing" thread: water temp, oil pressure and volts
(I'd include a boost gauge with an in line vac sender in the engine bay but I'm not sure if there is any way that's allowed.)
You say one of your SC's has an aftermaket water temp gauge already? Where did you run its sensor from?
I was going to ask you about this later today but you beat me to it
I think it may affect all JDM 2JZGTE, 1JZGTE and USDM 2JZGTE swaps into SC's... and possibly other cars such as the IS300's.
I went through two incorrect coolant gauge sensors last month before finding the correct one with the half moon shaped connector exactly as you described.
Later I'll have to quote post Mike's research on the resistance values at the SC's cluster gauge back earlier in this thread. I think he had a similar result with his gauge going to only 1/3 or so when just plugging it in.
I'm willing to try the 330 ohm resistor method for the dash gauge but I'm also open to installing a second coolant gauge sensor (anywhere that the BAR will accept...) and running that into either my LXCC controller or an aftermarket VDO coolant temp gauge.
I'm already plannng to allow for three VDO 52mm gauges in one of the stereo panels in the "CAD Sharing" thread: water temp, oil pressure and volts
(I'd include a boost gauge with an in line vac sender in the engine bay but I'm not sure if there is any way that's allowed.)
You say one of your SC's has an aftermaket water temp gauge already? Where did you run its sensor from?
Last edited by KahnBB6; 08-03-17 at 04:19 AM.
08-03-17, 04:35 AM
#190
^^^ all the four SCs with 2jzgte swaps have their coolant gauge on the stock cluster working good. NONE of them ever go above half the gauge regardless if I have the half moon sensor or the spade sensor which contradicts what you just said about gauge shooting up once warmed up. Maybe it is just me , I don't know but that's my experience on all the 4 SCs with 2jzgte swaps. And two of those SCs have SC300 gauges (one was original manual trans gauge gluster and one was auto trans gauge cluster) . Two of those SCs were SC400s with auto trans gauge clusters.
The two SCs which have also aftermarket coolant gauges (on top of the stock coolant gauge on the stock cluster) have their aftermarket sensor T-ed on that stock gauge sender.
The two SCs which have also aftermarket coolant gauges (on top of the stock coolant gauge on the stock cluster) have their aftermarket sensor T-ed on that stock gauge sender.
08-04-17, 02:24 AM
#191
If that's the case for you then it must be a USDM 2JZGTE coolant gauge sensor issue. The 1-pin sensor I am using which fits the USDM GTE 6-speed harness is 83420-20040 which does have the gray half moon shaped connector shroud.
I also didn't think there was any difference between the SC300 and SC400 coolant temp cluster gauges for any years but I won't know unless I dig into the part numbers for them for each year and variant (manual SC3, A/T SC3, SC4 and 98-00 VVT-i for both SC3 and SC4). That would be a whole other investigation to go through.
When you say the stock gauge sender has a T with the aftermarket sender for the aftermarket gauge... do you mean to say you are running two gauge sensors in total? I feel like you're saying you just split the signal at the OEM sensor (JDM spade version) for two wires... but I wonder if that would cause any readings to be off. I think I have just misunderstood you Gerry
I also didn't think there was any difference between the SC300 and SC400 coolant temp cluster gauges for any years but I won't know unless I dig into the part numbers for them for each year and variant (manual SC3, A/T SC3, SC4 and 98-00 VVT-i for both SC3 and SC4). That would be a whole other investigation to go through.
When you say the stock gauge sender has a T with the aftermarket sender for the aftermarket gauge... do you mean to say you are running two gauge sensors in total? I feel like you're saying you just split the signal at the OEM sensor (JDM spade version) for two wires... but I wonder if that would cause any readings to be off. I think I have just misunderstood you Gerry
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