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Kahn's USDM 2JZGTE swap thread (aka The "Not Easy" Way)
Hello all,
I've held off for quite a white to make this thread and perhaps I'm jumping the gun at the time of this posting since I'm still not yet ready to begin my swap/conversion. I am, however, closing in on the total parts needed and felt it might be good to begin the thread anyway to start getting things organized and admittedly give this project an external life of its own outside of my mind.
I'm going to be upfront: this is a slow build thread. It's complex enough and my time, resources, finances and workspace are limited enough that I have to take each step of this project as I can at my own speed. I've read many great and inspiring build threads over the last few years and I wish I could move as quickly as others have but this should be a good read overall as it grows.
I've had a lot of help and advice from many members to get my my car in the shape it's in to date and I can't go forward without a big thanks
The project goals:
--Swap in or convert to a fully emissions legal USDM 2JZGTE. This includes functioning cats, EGR, TT fuel control, no CELs, and even fully functioning USDM sequential twin turbos.
--Cali emissions (BAR) compliant as an OBD1 93-95 TT spec vehicle.
--Stock/BPU power on Cali 91 octane to 15-16psi. --Future considerations: Water injection for detonation control at higher boost and possibly sending the turbos in for the STU GT28 hybrid upgrade... depending on alternative fuel and tuning. Also, I'm strongly considering RaceLogic traction control.
A big question might be "Why the heck would you go to this much trouble just to get a stock-ish 320hp engine at easily 4x the cost of going NA-T or swapping in an Aristo GTE engine??"
Fair enough. The short version is: I really like this engine and I've wanted it in my car since day one. Well before that time, actually. Also, the fact that I'm not going to make 600whp out of the gate with restrictive cats doesn't bother me. Lacking turbo(s) does. Since my car has to abide by Cali smog laws and I don't have the patience to "find a way to get it to pass" which is not a set in stone thing... I decided I wanted the most ridiculous swap I could attempt.
...I also don't like being told I can't do something that shouldn't make much difference.
I'm breaking down the first few posts into some initial subsections (which will be expanded upon ).
First, here's my car The picture is not new but it's about the same and I'll shoot a few new ones soonish.
1993 SC300 original 5-speed w/232k miles
R154 5-speed swapped & built w/MC parts and a SupraSport V3 short shifter
OEM MKIII Turbo clutch/PP with OEM 1JZ steel flywheel
TT Auto Torsen LSD rear w/4.272:1 swapped in (have the original 3.77 ring and pinion on standby)
TT brakes front and rear
TT rims on stock TT sized BFG Comp2's
TT 1996 rear sway bar conversion
TT seats recovered in Lexus factory tan matching color leather skins
Gixxer_Drew 600/325 Bilstein suspension
97+ front end conversion
4200K HIDs
Restored much of the original tan interior (ongoing)
Koyo TT radiator
Plenty of other little things done as well but those are the main things pertinent to the swap. It's very fun to drive as a DD and I enjoy it, short gearing and all. But it's NA days are numbered
And a couple from when I first got my car in 2010, completely stock and in need of some TLC.
It's come a long way in the last five years
As for the swap, I'm going to elaborate more very soon in subsequent posts but this is what 2/3 of a completely dismantled USDM 2JZGTE looks like stored in several bins. The stock twins are wrapped in cellophane. Not pictured are the USDM cats. This is... everything. Down to the OEM air box, OEM hoses, little kits of screws, nuts, electronics, VSVs, turbo piping, cooling lines, throttle cable, oil cooler... the list goes on and on and on... which is why I am making this thread
What I have left to acquire isn't much but they add up for the time being: oil pump, water pump, alternator, new engine mounts (maybe), an engine wiring harness and getting both the turbos rebuilt and the GTE cylinder head rebuilt.
I'm very much aware this is really NOT how you do a GTE swap (by entirely rebuilding the engine) This is all for the moment. More details to come in the posts below, followed eventually by progress. It kind of just snowballed in 2013 after I bought a 6-speed ECU and moved forward with my R154 rebuild and swap.
The biggest lingering dilemma is whether or not I should find another 93-95 2JZ-GE or GTE block and rebuild that or proceed with my original plan of converting my original GE engine with a Cometic head gasket. Since I haven't quite arrived at that point I've left that question on the back burner.
More to come, but as mentioned above, this is going to be an informative and detailed but SLOW build thread
Last edited by KahnBB6; 02-04-15 at 09:47 PM.
Reason: Minor corrections
Here I am going to do my best to list all of the parts needed for this swap with sectional breakdowns. I will update this list with corrections as needed.
A lot of the initial research for what is needed came from SupraTico's thread on SF which is very extensive and helpful:
Also, for a while I had access to some random Toyota visual EPC that was a godsend to identify all the small, forgettable parts like correct studs, bolts, washers, gaskets, etc. Sadly that EPC went defunct and I therefore can't link it for everyone to use :/
It's quite a long list. For my part, I began by purchasing the rarest and most pertinent parts first, many (but not all) of which were either cheaper used or only available used. More Parts will be added/rearranged as I round out what I have left to purchase:
Accessory Belt Absorber System:
From 97-SC300: The lower bracket of the damper arm mounts to a spot on the GTE oil pump or IS300 VVT-i GE M/T oil pumps. Only one P/N for all 96+ cars and IS auto/manual
—16622-46010 — 2JZGTE M/T ARM, V-RIBBED BELT Tensioner arm — x1 — $23.48
—16621-46010 — M/T Turbo BRACKET absorber lower bracket — x1 — $49.14
—91511-G0845 — Bolt for M/T absorber system — x2 — $1.23/ea
—90179-08153 superseded to 9008017242 — M/T Bracket V-Ribbed Belt Tensioner Stud Nut — x2 — $1.58/ea
—90179-08171 — M/T absorber nut — x2 — $1.07/ea
—90116-08348 — M/T absorber Lower mounting stud — x3 — $1.00/ea
—90901-16001 — M/T absorber Upper mounting stud — x1 — $2.73
—16602-46010 — 2JZGTE M/T absorber for tensioner — x1 —$75.94
—16620-46070 — 2JZGTE M/T Turbo Serpentine tensioner — $203.17
—13505-46041 — 2JZ timing belt idler pulley — $82.20
Cylinder Head Intake and Exhaust Side Areas:
—17173-46040 — 2JZGTE FRONT exhaust manifold gasket (to cylinder head) — $30.17
—17198-46010 — 2JZGTE REAR exhaust manifold gasket (to cylinder head) — $26.04
—17177-46031 — 2JZGTE intake manifold gasket (to cylinder head) — $13.24
—90182-A0011 — 2JZGTE nuts for exhaust side manifold studs — x12 — $1.07/ea
—90116-08348 — cyl head x2 studs top corner left + top corner right before EGR — $1.00/ea
—90080-17242 — nuts for two cyl head intake studs — x2 — $1.58/ea
—90080-11493 — cyl head intake side bolts x4 — $0.86/ea
—90080-17242 — head EGR studs nuts — x2 — $1.58/ea
—90116-08348 (or “9” at end which supersedes to 90080-12002) — EGR studs — x2 — $1.00/ea <— order both types anyway
Cylinder head:
—90201-11034 — OEM 2JZ-GE/GTE head stud washers — x14 — $1.07/ea
—90919-05006 <— TT, OR 90919-05037 — 2JZGTE crank sensor (on oil pump) (“SENSOR, CRANK POSITION”) x1 — $133.12 (LOW STOCK)
—90919-05007 — 2JZGTE Cam sensors (two, identical) — “SENSOR, CAM POSITION” x2 — $107.10/ea (cross-references to 1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE cars until 2006) over 100 in country
—2JZGTE Engine Hooks (Front and Rear) Used, Discontinued — $50.00
—90105-10345 — Bolts for 2JZGTE engine hooks — x4 — $0.99/ea
—2JZGTE spark plug top cover small hex key bolts (all) — PURCHASED
—2JZ-GTE cylinder head exhaust side studs (all) — PURCHASED
— 2JZGTE Oil Cap — $7.00
—90105-06011 — 2JZGTE — BOLTS FOR CAM POS. SENSOR x2
Intake Manifold:
—USDM 2JZ-GTE Intake manifold upper
—USDM 2JZ-GTE intake manifold lower
—USDM 2JZ-GTE throttle body
—USDM IACV (USED, very new)
—16281-46020 — 2JZGTE Idle Air Control Valve water bypass hose No.1 ($19.50) — PURCHASED
— 16267-46011 — 2JZGTE Idle Air Control Valve water bypass hose No.2 ($18) — PURCHASED
Cooling System:
—16702-46010 — 2JZGTE radiator shroud lower plastic cover just below engine fan — $20.00
—90468-05109 — 2JZGTE Clip For Fan Shroud x2 — $1.55/ea
—16361-46060 — 2JZGTE main engine fan blade x1 — $128.43
—16347-42020 — 2JZGTE upper water pump neck gasket x1 — $2.41
—16268-46020 — 2JZGTE small tube for top of water pump — $22.00
— x2 O-rings for 2JZGTE small water pump pipe — $6.00
—16347-42020 — 2JZGTE “GASKET (FOR TURBO WATER PIPE)” x2 of these
—90179-08153 superseded to 90080-17242— 2JZGTE two nuts for water bypass connection to water pump x2
—87245-1B330 Supra TT coolant bypass hose to side of engine — PURCHASED
—2JZGTE Oil Cooler (USED)
— 90105-08295 superseded to 90105-08176 — bolts for water pump upper neck to cylinder head x2 — $1.21/ea
—16282-46010 — 2JZGTE “HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.5” + two clamps + x2 bolts — PURCHASED (JUST HOSE)
—16571-46150 — 2JZGTE top radiator hose + two clamps (re-use old clamps?) — $18.88
—90916-03093 — 2JZ-GE/GTE thermostat — $17.11
—16325-62010 — 2JZ-GE/GTE thermostat gasket — $4.69
—83420-20020 coolant temp sender(?) not MKIV TT specific but JZ engine specific? — $23.46 Carson
2JZGTE Ignition System:
—USDM 2JZ-GTE resistor pack ($120.00)
—19968-46010 — 2JZGTE (x2) “COIL BRACKET W/TURBO” + any screws/bolts to hold them in 90105-06165 (superseded to 90105-06165) (x6) + small U-bracket 90929-01283 (x3) + screws (x3) 93319-15008
2JZGTE TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM:
— USDM 2JZ-GTE twin turbos 150k miles (need rebuilding but work)
— USDM 2JZ-GTE ALL supporting twin turbo piping, VSV and oil line hardware
—17305-46010 superseded to 17305-46011 — 2JZGTE “VALVE SUB-ASSY, REED” x1 — $41.93
—17315-46010 — 2JZGTE “GASKET, INTAKE AIR CONTROL VALVE” (REED VALVE AREA) x2 — $4.51/ea
—17376-46010 — 2JZGTE “GASKET, AIR TUBE” (#15 (gaskets to turbocharger inlets) ) — X2
—90999-92002 — 2JZGTE Pressure tank hoses (x2)
—TT pressure tank (used)
—16284-46020 — 2JZGTE “HOSE, TURBO WATER NO.2” x1
—16286-46010 — 2JZGTE “HOSE, TURBO WATER NO.3” x1
—16287-46010 — 2JZGTE “HOSE, TURBO WATER NO.4” x1
From the very top of the turbocharger intake system, located in "ENGINE/ENGINE/AIR INTAKE/AIR CLEANER ASSY”:
— 90460-73011 — #11 “CLAMP OR CLIP (FOR AIR HOSE, NO.1)” — x4 — $9.24/ea
—17341-46070 OR 17341-46120 OR 17341-46210 — #10 “HOSE, AIR, NO.1” — x2 — $39.30/ea
—96111-10880 OR 96111-10980 — 2JZGTE (OEM metal clamps for HOSE, AIR CLEANER NO.1) — x2
—USDM 2JZ-GTE MAF sensor (intake) ($50)
—USDM 2JZ-GTE intake tube (USED brittle) & (USED, NOT BRITTLE)
—17881-46180 — #8 (rubber intake tube to MAF sensor) — “HOSE, AIR CLEANER, NO.1” — x1 — $90.79
2JZGTE ENGINE CONTROL HARNESS & ENGINE CONTROL:
—1993.5-1995 Toyota Supra 2JZ-GTE OBD-1 6-speed M/T ECU w/Greddy speed cut controller ($200.00)
—11296-46121 (NA) OR 11296-46122 (96-98) OR 11296-46180 (93-95) “LABEL, ENGINE SERVICE INFORMATION” (Supra 2JZGTE) — PURCHASED
—1993-1998 Toyota Supra 2JZ-GTE Emissions and EGR Hood Sticker ($10.00)
CATALYTIC CONVERTORS:
—2JZGTE Supra 1997 FRONT Catalytic Convertor 77k miles
—2JZGTE Supra 1997 REAR Catalytic Convertor 77k miles
And currently I have these things left to buy:
—15100-46091 — 98-00 2JZ-GE VVT-i oil pump (provision for crank sensor) — $251.82 + compatible oil pump gear for crank ($208.40 at Pembroke Pines)
—25690-46010 — TT EGR Emission Modulator (new replacement in case of failure) — $94.95 Carson
—16100-49845 superseded to 16100-49847 — 2JZGTE Water pump — Carson $150.16 — $160 Driftmotion not incl shipping — ($124.27 at Pembroke Pines not incl shipping)
—Alternator: TT Automatic 100 AMP alternator w/bracket ($242 Carson + $30 pulley M/T or auto specific?) or DM 1JZ alternator $140.00 or SF thread alternator 160 AMP
—PTR05-89960-02 — Supra 93-98 TRD Air Filter — $66.00 Suprastore (available?) NOW DISCONTINUED BY TOYOTA
—PTR43-00088 —TRD air filter filter cleaning kit (AVAILABLE)
—89465‑19605 — TT USDM 02 Sensor #1 (Front) — $165.94 Carson — $56.79 Rockauto (reference Toyota P/N)
—89465‑19595 — TT USDM 02 Sensor #2 (Rear) — $169.40 Carson — $49.79 Rockauto (reference Toyota P/N)
—Spark Plugs: NGK Iridium - BKR6EIX-11 (3764) — x6 — $6.45/ea Rockauto.com ($40.00)
—89615-22030 — TT Knock sensors (same as GE) — x2 — $166.78/ea.
—90919-02205 — TT ignition coils (x6) — $96 each ($600) OR $62.99 each ($400) at Rockauto.com — Denso #673-1200
—89452-22080 — 2JZGTE Intake TPS sensor #1 (x1) — $92.63 Carson (2JZGTE & other Toyotas until 1997) over 100 in country ($76.66 at Pembroke Pines)
—89452-22090 — 2JZGTE Intake TPS sensor #2 (x1) — $101.86 Carson (2JZGTE & other Toyotas) over 100 in country
—1236046111 — 1997-98 Supra MKIV engine mount LEFT — $69.00 Carson (check for SC fitment)
—1236046111 — 1997-98 Supra MKIV engine mount RIGHT — $69.00 Carson (check for SC fitment)
—TT fuel line banjo bolts and/or other pieces missing — $???
—other TT coolant temp sensors?
—(Need part number) 2JZGTE lower water pump neck gasket
—(Need part number) 2JZGTE gasket that goes to the water pump to bypass pipe
—TT/NA Supra front sway bar USED + new bushings + new end links?
—ARP 1JZ/2JZ head studs & nuts -- $160 (Driftmotion)
—Cometic 2.0mm or 2.4mm GTE head gasket (CHECK COMPRESSION & SQUISH FIGURES TO ACHIEVE 8.6:1 ON 2JZ-GE BLOCK) — $200.00
And Some final large purchases still needed:
—New R154 clutch+PP for 350-400WHP — New OEM R154 PP + Southbend or ClutchMasters Disc — $400
—USDM intake manifold temp/vacuum sensor location repaired before installation — $???
—Engine Swap Harness: (TWEAK’D Performance USDM 2JZGTE custom wiring harness for SC — $1,300-$1,600) (Custom Rewire from Aristo Harness?)
—USDM Twin Turbos rebuilt by SpeedForSale, GA — $1,600 + shipping (includes parts refresh kit)
—GTE Cylinder head cleaned & rebuilt by FSR Motorsports (does not include new valves, guides, retainers and springs) — $1,200
—TT Auto rear differential rebuilt with original 3.769:1 ring and pinion (interim differential 3.916:1 Open from SC400) — $450?
And finally, a small dream list of supporting electronics:
—HKS EVC-4, EVC-5 or EVC-6 boost controller — $765.00
—Racelogic Traction Control for MKIV Supra TT’s #RLTC6A ABS — $900-$1000
—Popformance SC/Soarer Climate and Function Controller $428.00 (for virtual boost, A/F, EGT, Oil pressure gauges)
—Aquamist or Coolingmist water injection system (detonation control on 91 octane) — $500-$800
—Electric gauge senders available at — http://prosportgauges.com/prosport-e...c-senders.aspx
—ProEFI 128 Engine Control w/Traction Control (later)
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-12-15 at 05:15 PM.
Reason: Updating
KahnBB6, first off clean looking SC! I also understand why you've held off with this build. This is part of the reason I haven't started mine? Collecting parts, organizing pictures, and conducting tons of research, etc. So a Cali-complaint SC with full amenities is your goal? This should be fairly straight forward, and we're all here to help if we can. So remember it's your build thread, and you can post up tons of questions that arise. As far as the parts left to get. If it's in budget, I'd buy the oil pump, water pump and alternator new. And while you're collecting parts, order new gaskets/seals for the build. This will at-least give you a piece of mind, prior to the install. Plus this will be way easier with the engine out? Reference what do GE or GTE block: What's the budget (realistically) you don't have to post here, but ask yourself this first. I would just keep your current SC stock, and put money towards the swap, or other related goodies for your SC? After the swap has been completed, you're left with a few options: Build the GE and keep as a spare, plus hone your skills working on this engine, sale, or part out? The GE block is pretty stout, and when done right produce some pretty impressive numbers in the NA-T form. Either way, keep us posted.
steve
Last edited by lilSCsteve; 02-04-15 at 04:35 AM.
Reason: fat finger typing...lol
Been waiting for this build thread. Best of Luck Kahn with your attention to detail I have no doubt its going to turn out to be just what you are aiming for. As for keeping your GE block, if its in good condition there isn't a big reason not to (other than custom oil and coolant lines for the twins that are not on the ge block stock), maybe a compression check is in order but if it runs smooth and pulls well and doesn't overheat, its probably just been waiting for a turbo head and twins to be put on there =), the test will confirm or let you know you need a new block. A Gte short block would be more plug and play though..
Part of the reason I thought this would make a good thread is to point out how it is one thing to set your sights on a "Cali legal USDM GTE swap" and thinking you've got the system beat with that knowledge... and quite another to actually achieve it-- not to mention how you need to be realistic with your expectations about horsepower from a "legal" tune. But this is how it needs to be done to stay by the book. The 2JZGTE is no slouch even just at BPU though. As I am sure 97-SC300 and gerrb can attest it's some work to do right.
Steve -- Thank you!! You can probably tell the car's paint is OK but that a repaint will be in its future as well It will be straightforward enough but there are still some hurdles to clear yet. In regards to budget, there was one originally but I exceeded that long ago When I go into the sheer lunacy of all these parts you'll understand why at this point it's been reduced to a dogged goal of completion no matter how long it takes me.
Also... just last week I had to spend a good chunk to replace my aged computer workstation and necessary priorities like those slow down the car project. Computers are spendy :/
Ali -- I know you have! You know my detail ethic by now. Thank you! I'm looking for that total factory-like bulletproof function and a good deal more power. Also, something about the sequential system is just very unique.
Regarding the block:
I know it's probably best to seriously look into getting another GE or a US GTE block to build the engine onto. Starting from an Aristo GTE didn't make sense to me because so much of the turbo side, intake side and top end would need to be replaced anyway. Also, while moving in the last couple of years there was no way to keep a long block around.
The stock engine in my car purrs and runs just fine. I suspect the valves are just a tad tired but that doesn't matter when I'm going to put a fresh cylinder head on anyway. A compression test will be in order though. My next oil change is coming up very soon and I will send a sample off to Blackstone for analysis as well.
The plan is to focus on the last few parts I need, then the engine harness, then the cylinder head, then the turbos and at that point I'll be ready to decide what block I use. Also, all the wear items I've been buying new so far. The alternator, water pump and oil pump will be new as well. I'm just one part away from having a complete M/T belt shock absorber system ready to go at the moment.
If you are going to be removing the GE head to replace with a GTE head.....compression shouldnt be that much of a concern on the old gasket.....Id imagine you would be doing Headstuds and new GTE Headgasket...
Good luck with the build...essentially sounds like you will be going NA-TT
If you are going to be removing the GE head to replace with a GTE head.....compression shouldnt be that much of a concern on the old gasket.....Id imagine you would be doing Headstuds and new GTE Headgasket...
Good luck with the build...essentially sounds like you will be going NA-TT
Thank you CatMan! Yep, basically NA-TT but by means of installing a GE VVT-i oil pump with a crank sensor and factory COP ignition. It would be somewhat easier if I had a 96-97 SC300.
This is my thought too but it couldn't hurt since piston ring health would be factored into a standard compression test (unless I'm mistaken).
I will be going with a Cometic 2.0mm or 2.4mm head gasket. Ali helped me with a mountain of notes on that some months ago and I have to dig into them to figure out which one was the zinger. The idea was to achieve 8.6:1 compression, much like a GTE short block's 8.5:1 compression with the OEM 1.3mm TT head gasket.
This will be an amazing thread and a great contribution to CL sc owners. let me know if you need any help or have any questions I may be able to answer.
if its been maintained and purrs like a kitten, I would think your rings and everything are just fine and I would totally na-t it. to destroy rings on these motors in n/a takes a good amount of abuse or oiling problems and it would not be purring anymore... lol.
A quick and dirty test is to take your oil cap off the motor while its running. If oil is spraying out of that thing like a fountain, its worth checking your rings as excessive crank case pressure is a direct sign of worn rings, and at that point you would feel exhaust pulses putting your hand over it. Its not that common on our motors though but very common on lets say an older 22RE. you would not want to turbo such a block without new rings as the excessive crank case pressure will not let oil from the turbo drain back into the pan and a smoke-show occurs.
A compression test is the proper thing to do but a bad reading wont tell you if its the rings or the headgasket, but if you get a healthy reading you know that both are fine. also how the numbers vary you can make some educated guesses from there or do more tests. I never tested mine at all I just threw the turbo on cause I knew it was already running well.
97SC300 -- Thank you! That means a lot. I will take you up on that offer when I get into it.
HiPSI -- Thanks! I've never owned a boosted car but I've driven several and the sensation never left me. Just a matter of time.
Ali -- I never knew that about the 22RE engines. Interesting if the short lived 22RET is known for the same ring issues. I don't notice any funny behavior with my engine and it does purr. I always try to let it warm up a bit before driving. It did eat some oil between changes a couple of years ago but replacing the valve cover gaskets cured a lot of this. I still top off between changes just a bit but I've attributed this to engine revs with the short gearing (I hardly ever go past 6200rpm and often shift at 4000rpm during normal driving). Regularly checking the oil level on a high performance car is always good practice.
I am interested to see what the Blackstone test will tell. I had one done once back in 2010 and the results were fine then.
Best wishes on the swap Kahn! For as long as I've owned my car, I, too, have always wanted a BAR'd USDM 2JZGTE. This way will be cheaper in the long run.
Thanks Jadu! I don't think "cheaper" could possibly apply to this project though. I have receipt records for everything so far and I'm reluctant to make a full tally for fear of startling myself. I'll have to eventually for insurance purposes and I'll begin by listing everything in this thread.
02-04-15, 01:47 AM
Kahn's USDM 2JZGTE swap thread (aka The "Not Easy" Way)
You know my detail ethic by now. Thank you! 
