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I like it, I think you made the right decision for your overall build. this way it will be just like a gte came and you can work on the motor while you drive your car. win win. good luck with the assembly, and to be honest I would just put a straight edge from corner to corner and see how straight the head is, if it looks good and it was said to just be dismantled I would just reassemble with new valve stem seals and clean it up. you will probably have to figure out where all the shims go if it wasn't marked but its not that difficult.
^^ I feel that way too, Ali. In the end even SupraTico's (SupraForums) GTE-head-on-NA-block method doesn't exactly work for this fully stock approach. I mean it *can* be made to work but with more custom effort in terms of the oil supply routing. So anyone studying this thread to attempt a "smog legal" GTE swap themselves should learn from my journey that it really is better and easier to plan to use a GTE block from the start. Or begin with an Aristo 2JZGTE engine and collect all the EGR and other USDM pieces as needed (which was, I believe, Vigman's approach with his USDM GTE swap).
If someone is insisting on using sequential twin turbos and not planning to go with a newer technology single turbo then I'd have to say the GTE block is the most straightforward way to do it. Even though the piston oil squirters aren't really needed (or wanted).
As far as I can tell my SC is running fine. I am beginning to suspect that inconsistent startup issue may be related to the factory fuel pump. I have nothing to go on yet but after all the emissions repair to the GE engine it is my hunch. But I could be wrong.
If that turns out to be the case I still have the brand new Denso OEM TT pump and used TT Fuel ECU (have two of those) to install and you did say I could do that and it would not be detrimental on the stock GE engine. A brand new OEM GE fuel pressure regulator was recently installed too. Slightly more heated fuel being returned to the tank at a higher rate won't cause detonation sans turbo, right? On the other hand a new stock GE pump from Denso is not that expensive to get and throw in myself--- IF it is ever needed before the swap is done.
The GTE cylinder head I will get to soon following your and Gerry's advice. First thing I want to do is get it and the pieces cleaned up but since I care more about this cylinder head shouldn't I learn to measure the flatness with a proper gauge of some kind?
I will shoot some pictures of the head and valve train soon and start that process. Not this week since I'm pressed but probably next.
you can use the gte fuel pump now, not a problem. wont cause any detonation.
the cyilnder head itself you check with a metal straight edge normally from corner to corner on the bottom side.
There isn't a way to gauge it yourself, at least I don't know how to.
now you can get a set of dial calipers for figuring out the shims, yes you will be doing measuring and calculating and trial and error there, popping the cams in and checking, popping the cams back out and adjustments, popping cams back in and checking... its a process. sounds like you need to get teh valves back in first though if they are fully out.
Small update... or rather maybe not such a small update
Thanks to Gerrb I now have a 2JZ-GTE block, crank, rods and oil pan!
Gerry, you're truly an amazing guy all around! And listening to your stories and seeing some of your cars up close and the unique work you've put into each of them was a lot of fun! I had a great time chatting and learning from you over the morning.
It was a long drive back to Florida and the tarp and bracing were rock solid! I lost some travel time due to heavy storms on the way south but all was well in the end.
Today I dropped the block off at machine shop for cleaning, painting and bore measuring. The oil pan will be cleaned also. Honing might wait at least until I know what the bore measurement comes to. I am to deliver a new freeze plug set as soon as they come in at the dealer in the next day or so. Gerry I know you'd prefer I ship the block to California to build once I get it back but it's too little time to figure out where to get it placed for now. It will be stored in air conditioning, oiled and wrapped up as we discussed for the time being.
If they find that the cylinders will require boring I will have to decide if that's something I can have squeezed in now within my limited timeframe before it gets stored.
....
Meanwhile in L.A. I am going to focus on the GTE head rebuild and getting the correct size pistons, bearing kits, wrist pins, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, and other small pieces.
I've looked up the ACL bearing set and I suppose I would need the "Standard Size" kit? The other sizes seem to be for full race applications and undersized applications for cranks that have been turned. I'll get the numbers off the rear of the block this week.
The connecting rod wrist pin bushings... do I just order factory Toyota for those along with the wrist pins?
I like the shop I'm using. They came recommended by the guys at Grip Industries and are just a machine shop that does this work day-in-day-out. I feel I am in good hands. Some customer of theirs had a VG30DETT engine block and heads in for a full rebuild and there was just about every engine type you can imagine in progress.
All in all I'm still working slowly but it feels good to be making progress towards the goal with a solid plan.
Craig , you are welcome. It was a pleasure to have met you in person, coming all the way from California , and had a good talk about these toys we all love that is why we are on this forum. Am glad you had a safe trip back home in FL. Yeah it will be nice that after the work you get done on the block in FL, you can store it but get it ready for shipping like being in a small pallet.
On the bearings, since the crank and your rods are stock .. yes you need standard bearings. Most 2jzgte guys and well known shops will recommend ACL bearings if you want aftermarket bearings for a boosted car. So they will be a good choice. Those bearings are a bit loose in tolerance usually. Wrist pin bushings ... use factory ones since you have stock / oem rods.
Get the work going, build the whole engine , now that you got almost everything and do the engine swap once ready .
Don't hesitate to call me or send me messages any time you need to buddy if there is in any way I can be of help.
Some belated pictures of the work done after I got the engine off the truck a couple of weeks ago. I'm already back on the west coast now.
The 2JZ-GTE block and oil pan parts were professionally cleaned in a sonic chemical bath. I opted not to have he ball bearings removed to do this since Toyota doesn't even carry new ones for replacement. It came out looking great! The block was treated to a new coating of VHT black satin paint. In the pictures the two small freeze plugs are missing since we didn't realize to order them. Those will be installed later during assembly.
Cylinder bore wear apparently wasn't bad. I unfortunately did not write down the measurements but it seemed to be a toss up as to whether or not they are still useable in 86mm. I opted not to hone them prior to storage.
The block was sprayed down with oil, sealed in a bag and further wrapped tightly in cellophane. It's being stored in constant 78 degree non-humid air conditioning until I can get back to it.
The crank and rods I liberally oiled up with 10W-40 conventional motor oil and sealed them all tightly in small bubble wrap. Those are in the same storage environment in a plastic bin. I picked up an engine crane but it was not needed yet. That is stored as well.
For now it's the best I was able to do. It also gives me time to accumulate the rest of the needed rotating assembly parts.
good job Craig ... now get the rest of the parts and get it going
Thank you! I will do, Gerry
OEM TT pistons and rings have been ordered. It will be a gamble as to whether or not the machine shop likes how they measure against the existing cylinder bores but I will know soon enough if that plan is a no-go or not. I already know they will work-- it's just a question of how much within specification they will be after the honing. It's factory engine life I am after more than big power potential. If it works out within acceptable TSRM spec I will be happy. If not, then 86.5mm forged pistons it is.
DNJ makes an "OEM spec" TT piston that is cast-type in 86.5mm. No idea if it is quality Hypereutectic or just a normal brittle casting but I don't see anyone commenting on them compared to stock pistons for 2JZ's or 7M's on Supraforums so they aren't in consideration anyway.
It's amazing to me, however, that Toyota does not sell even one oversize piston. They only sell 86mm TT pistons. This is probably true for many of their engines. I recall reading somewhere that Mitsubishi, for instance, does sell OEM oversize pistons (at least for the 6G72 V6) so it is just a manufacturer thing.
The new set of OEM TT pistons arrived today in Florida. Ring set and connecting rod bushings to follow.
I also dropped my 2JZGTE ECU off at Driftmotion for standard capacitor replacement service. We cracked open the casing and everything was extremely clean inside (whew!). Only the slightest visual indication of a couple of the capacitors having gone bad. The computer will be good as new in a week!
Man it was awesome meeting you Craig. I appreciate meeting up with you and getting that oil pump from you. Gf enjoyed herself although we didn't get the chance to do all that was mentioned. Obviously we'll be back, she already said so. Probably meetup with you again then. I appreciate the info you txt me.
Man it was awesome meeting you Craig. I appreciate meeting up with you and getting that oil pump from you. Gf enjoyed herself although we didn't get the chance to do all that was mentioned. Obviously we'll be back, she already said so. Probably meetup with you again then. I appreciate the info you txt me.
You're welcome, Chris. Good to meet you too and I'm glad to have helped. Happy to hear you two had a good time out here! L.A. has a lot to see and you just have to pick and choose if you're only visiting. Definitely come back and explore!
On order are the ARP 1JZ/2JZ main stud kit and ARP 1JZ/2JZ rod bolt kit.
The bearing kit(s) I am actually beginning to lean towards factory now. Gerry, feel free to come down on me about this after recommending I grab some ACL's while I can I keep thinking in terms of how much I won't be pushing this engine and wishing it be able to put a lot of mileage on it for some time once it's up and running. However I'm smacking my head since in my haste to get everything prepped and sealed up for storage I forgot to read the stamping numbers off the crankshaft. I'll have to do that later to ordering those.
I think I'll be fine for the short block assembly once I have those and get the oil pan bolts and pickup/baffle bolts.
I am strongly considering this also:
04111-46094 — "2JZGTE ENGINE OVERHAUL GASKET KIT"
To my knowledge it doesn't have the twin turbo side gasket rebuild kit (which I already have anyway) but it seems to have everything else including a new OEM GTE head gasket. Seems like a good bet since I am doing all assembly from scratch.
The car is in the shop today for replacement of the 2JZ-GE coolant bypass hose that goes into the back of the cylinder head. It started leaking quite badly yesterday. Just need to get it done quickly. Luckily I had that hose, the clamps and other heater core and HCV hoses on standby just in case this happened
07-11-16, 10:51 PM
Thank you! I will do, Gerry 
