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Good looking sc man. Take your time and don't rush it. Its always good to be organized. I had a shelf that had totes of parts and everything on it when I started my build. I need to post a build thread but I am always to busy or something is going on. anyways from experience save yourself some time and go ahead and swap that diff ring out and get that 3.77 gearing you were speaking of in your first post. I have a 2jzgte swap with an mk3 r154 and the stock auto sc rear diff and the car hates life. 65mph on the highway the car is turning 3500 rpms or more. Im swapping the diff and trans out for the cd009 and a different rear gear.
just giving you my opinion from experience. Keep up the good work sir.
Interesting approach, but very thorough and practical for your goals. Hybrid turbo upgrades would be something else though.
Look forward to seeing your build progress.
Thanks, aswang I'd like to do a bit more with it down the road but I don't want to get ahead of myself. The GT28 hybrid upgrade would be so very easy to do because I'm going to send my stock twins into SFS for a standard rebuild anyway. The added cost is a factor ($1,300 rebuild vs $3k-$3.5k hybrids) but the larger issue is actually putting them to good use, at which point I think I'd need to retire the car from daily duty due to the need for a new fuel system and tune for E85 or VP100 gas. I know I *could* go in that direction but I still want to be able to drive this thing anywhere. It might be different if we had 93 in California.
Your car, btw, and your current plans for it... I'm looking forward to your progress, too.
Originally Posted by 95SC3T
Good looking sc man. Take your time and don't rush it. Its always good to be organized. I had a shelf that had totes of parts and everything on it when I started my build. I need to post a build thread but I am always to busy or something is going on. anyways from experience save yourself some time and go ahead and swap that diff ring out and get that 3.77 gearing you were speaking of in your first post. I have a 2jzgte swap with an mk3 r154 and the stock auto sc rear diff and the car hates life. 65mph on the highway the car is turning 3500 rpms or more. Im swapping the diff and trans out for the cd009 and a different rear gear.
just giving you my opinion from experience. Keep up the good work sir.
Thanks man! Taking my time is a necessity now. It seems like I had more time for it a year ago but things can change quickly. It sounds like you're still going through a very similar situation with your project.
My 4.27 gears have been great for NA use but the 3.77 gearing will go in with another diff rebuild when the time comes. I might pick up a 3.92 open pumpkin just to have something ready to go in right away. Deciding between 3.77 and 3.92 is something I had gone back and forth on. I like aggressive gearing in general but I'm basing that on my impression of NA power delivery.
The 3500-4000rpm highway rpm is a normal thing to me and needed given the low horsepower. I feel the car did have a slightly scrappier quality on the highway with the 4.27 + W58 combination vs the 4.27 + R154 combination. It's a subtle difference but it's noticeable. Still, once there is more horsepower and torque there is no need for the short gearing and I might get better than 20-21mpg on long trips
Good luck with your CD009 swap! Recently I think the consensus has been that a 3.26 rear ratio is the best match for that gearbox.
Originally Posted by kez
I've been waiting for this thread for a while.
Looks like this will be an Upcoming Sticky (hint hint)
Hah. I hope to put in a lot of extensive info for anyone else considering taking this route or anyone who is simply curious. For most owners this will be a very niche and limited method for going turbo.
Originally Posted by Blkexcoupe
I'm looking forward to seeing the progress of this thread as well. Good luck with your build.
Thank you!
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The only update I have for right now is that I've picked up a new pair of GTE cam sensors for the cylinder head. I couldn't pass up a great deal on them
Thanks, aswang I'd like to do a bit more with it down the road but I don't want to get ahead of myself. The GT28 hybrid upgrade would be so very easy to do because I'm going to send my stock twins into SFS for a standard rebuild anyway. The added cost is a factor ($1,300 rebuild vs $3k-$3.5k hybrids) but the larger issue is actually putting them to good use, at which point I think I'd need to retire the car from daily duty due to the need for a new fuel system and tune for E85 or VP100 gas. I know I *could* go in that direction but I still want to be able to drive this thing anywhere. It might be different if we had 93 in California.
Your car, btw, and your current plans for it... I'm looking forward to your progress, too.
Thank you sir. If you run ProEFI, you could get away with tuning for E85 and running 91 when E85 is not available. The computer should default to the lowest iboost setting when you are running less than 75% E85.
As for my SC, I should have a big update in the immediate future.
Thank you sir. If you run ProEFI, you could get away with tuning for E85 and running 91 when E85 is not available. The computer should default to the lowest iboost setting when you are running less than 75% E85.
As for my SC, I should have a big update in the immediate future.
That's good to know. Only 75% E85 mixture is needed? Interesting. It would be a big jump from the current plan but that's the best ECU I've heard of to date (ProEFI 128).
Awesome! I'll check into your thread soon and see what's cooking.
I got my recent Blackstone oil analysis report back today. I'm not qualified to interpret these values but in the summary they seem to think my piston rings are fine but that a little more wear on the bearings has been noted. Given how the engine feels day to day, how long we know 2JZ's can last and how I drive it I am not sure what that ultimately means but it's food for thought in case it means doing the conversion onto another block when it's go time. I guess I'll take some more samples with my oil changes and see if they notice any other changes.
As is, my GE engine feels fine. I always check the oil level and let it warm up a bit before moving.
unless it was smoking, I would slap a turbo on it. compression test will tell you what you need to know be sure to do it before you tear it down. most people don't and most people don't have issues but since you are investing so much time and $$ the compression test is def worth the time it takes. getting another engine is possibly a bigger risk, as you will not know the exact history of it, could end up being alot worse than your current one.
Thanks, Ali. Zero smoke. It's a good engine. I will absolutely be doing a compression test. Kind of wish I'd done it when I did my spark plugs last year before moving again. But I will get it done, probably on my own since the GE top end is expensive in labor. Not having a house garage right now is the snag but I do have space to work.
There are so any things I'd prefer not to replace on another block right down to the new A/C compressor I had installed a year ago.
The main dilemma I'm having as final parts trickle in is how I am going to do the actual conversion. I'll have enough to do getting a harness made and having the GTE head and turbos fully rebuilt but once I've got those ducks in a row I guess the only best way is to go all at once.
I'd considered pulling the GE to convert (and plug) the oil pan for the turbo drain elbow, oil pump, GTE water bypass pipe (hooked up to the GE water pump which does fit) and GTE oil cooler and GTE PS reservoir. And I'd make stage two the installation of the GTE head, manifold, wiring harness, turbos and all the pressure piping.
But this is probably a counter productive plan, isn't it? The space will be extremely tight to get everything routed and hooked up, won't it?
I just need a TT pump to have the fuel system parts ready though. I could tackle that sooner but even though you said the only side effect on a GE would be slightly hotter fuel maybe I should wait on that too.
It's interesting doing it this way. GE vs factory GTE is very much an all or nothing process in contrast to NA-T with one of the popular COP conversions w/distributor gear.
you can do the fuel pump at any time, shouldn't have any affect on your n/a except you will be returning more fuel than normal. nothing you will notice. I would do this a few weeks ahead of any teardown to verify the pump setup is working.
Then I would yank the motor and do it all at once. you could separate it like you have, but chances are you may be redoing some coolant lines and little stuff you did on round 1 to do to get the gte head conversion on round 2. even if you don't you will still want to pull the motor, installing intake and especially twins I have heard is like the worst possible thing to attempt in car. It can be done but I hear the twins are so much easier out of the car. so I guess it comes down to are you comfortable with pulling the motor twice, or just pull it once and get everything on it. with the complexities of the build I would probalby pull this one once and go very slowly and carefully over everything and drop it in and try it.
the head is not that hard of a job to do, and everything bolts to it. only tricky part is replicating things that go to the actual sides of the GTE block normally, you will have to find the proper places on the GE block, mainly applies to coolant and oil routing. its been done before there is a long thread on SF about it as well. I think it was titled "NA-TT" or something like that.
I am guessing the gte bypass hose will give you the coolant feed for the oil cooler, and you can probably return that coolant to the line by the firewall where the stock GE throttle body coolant lines go back into the system. I think the stock gte system also has the coolant lines going through the throttle body and then the IACV in a dasy chained fashion from pics online, all of those basically end up in the same place on teh return side of the system. oil feed lines for the turbo's I am not clear where those come from on a gte (probably block but not sure), but there is always the IS300 union you can use to get an oil feed, and return is already stamped on the pan.
Type of swap of swap which route to go about doing things, because if you have to buy every little USDM piece for your car to convert it to a USDM setup , it will put a dent in your pocket, it won't be worth it in my opinion.
I am just looking out for you!!
02-06-15, 04:34 AM
I'd like to do a bit more with it down the road but I don't want to get ahead of myself. The GT28 hybrid upgrade would be so very easy to do because I'm going to send my stock twins into SFS for a standard rebuild anyway. The added cost is a factor ($1,300 rebuild vs $3k-$3.5k hybrids) but the larger issue is actually putting them to good use, at which point I think I'd need to retire the car from daily duty due to the need for a new fuel system and tune for E85 or VP100 gas. I know I *could* go in that direction but I still want to be able to drive this thing anywhere. It might be different if we had 93 in California.
