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Unfortunately my dyno operator had to go for a 2 week trip to work, so Im afraid the dyno will have to wait
I created a proper cold air intake intake today. There is plenty with space in front of the inner fender on the passenger side. This area should recieve proper cold air in speed through the bumper, and minimum heat from the engine bay.
I started with a 4" hole saw. Unfortunately the shaft was too big for my drill, så I had to improvise with the impact wrench:
Paint still wet:
The finished product:
Next I finally installed my LS400 brakes - The stock passenger side calipper was sticking, so this should be a good upgrade.
I then decided to take a look at the headers. There is a 1/8 mile race this weekend, som an extra 20+ hp would be great. First off I installed my new 1600mm belt, to see if I could remove the AC. It was a perfect fit.
I could finally remove that AC pump too. The damn thing weighs a ton! The AC did not work anyways, and it`s not really necassary anyways. The headers will have to wait though, they still look like a 10h job, and I dont have the time
Since I could not go too the dyno last week, I did some seat of the pants tuning before the 1/8mile drag. I analyzed the VE table and tweaked the ignition timing too more accurately match the VE table. These are the results.
As you can see quite easily in the 3D table on the left, the VE drops quite bad with RPM, probably because off those terrbile headers and the narrow stock Y-pipe. So I bumped the timing in the high RPM region a bit, and the result was a massive power increase in the top end.
I entered in the bracket class, and made most of my runs against a friend of mines E46 M3. I was surprised how equal we were, but he got me most of the time as my rear tires was terrible for the first 3 qualifying laps. But by the 4th qualifying lap the brand new Michelins finally started to grip after a massive burnout, and I actually beat the M3 by 0.2 seconds.
My dial in was 9.40
Best time: 9.429
Best RT: 0.501
Best 60ft: 2.179
Speed: 76mph
End result: 2nd place bracket with a red light RT of 0.479 in the final
Overall Im very happy with the result, and the car was much faster than expected! I cant wait too install those headers and proper exhaust, followed by a good tune.
A quick update on the handling: It seems the old tires was the reason why the car had that dangerous oversteer before. With the new Michelin pilot super sport tires, the car now handles great.
However, when pushed hard in a corner and over a bump at the sane time, the passenger side will hit the plastic inner fender quite hard. So Im considering to raise the ride height to maximum, I think that is about 1/2" higher than the current ride height.
Your MAT correction looks nuts, I attached mine for my miata, so you can get an idea. My recommendation to you though, is to turn off all your corrections (MAT, EGO, and MAT Ignition).
Let the car warm up, and slowly start adjusting your VE map, then deal with your corrections after.
Also for timing what I like to do is:
1) Get car warmed up
2) Have Ignition, and MAP gauges on
3) Lower ignition timing to see the MOST amount of vacuum. For my miata, I'm closer to 17-18, but on other cars (Hondas) I've been closer to 30!
one other thing, are you going to leave your IAT sensor exposed like that too? I have an issue with heat soak, so I can only imagine that heat soak is going to be an issue for you as well.
one other thing, are you going to leave your IAT sensor exposed like that too? I have an issue with heat soak, so I can only imagine that heat soak is going to be an issue for you as well.
I have a weld on bung in the garage, I just have not had the time to mount it. Right now it is inside the fender, fairly well protected from heat soak. It is on my to do list though, along with headers and some exhaust mods, then a proper tune.
Your MAT correction looks nuts, I attached mine for my miata, so you can get an idea. My recommendation to you though, is to turn off all your corrections (MAT, EGO, and MAT Ignition).
Let the car warm up, and slowly start adjusting your VE map, then deal with your corrections after.
Also for timing what I like to do is:
1) Get car warmed up
2) Have Ignition, and MAP gauges on
3) Lower ignition timing to see the MOST amount of vacuum. For my miata, I'm closer to 17-18, but on other cars (Hondas) I've been closer to 30!
I also do this for the super low loads as well.
Are you not using VEAL either?
Yep, tunerstudio is a great tool. I did use the VE generator for the initial table. I have then mostly used VEAL for tuning it. A great tool, makes tuning so much easier! The VE table is quite good now, but MAT correction keeps pushing me off.
About your method for ingition timing, you only use this for idle tuning right? I intend to use timing for idle speed correction, so I need to stay way below the optimal timing curve to have some timing in "reserve" on idle.
As for tuning timing, Im waiting for my dyno operator too get back from work. I will then do spark hook testing at several RPM and load cells too make the timing table better. I want to finish the exhaust and header install first though, so i dont have to do it 2 times..
My MAT correction IS crazy btw. It`s DIYautotune`s table that was supplied with the ECU (for a Supra 2JZ). Thanks for showing me yours!! this has been an issue since day one on this car. I will try it first thing
Yep, tunerstudio is a great tool. I did use the VE generator for the initial table. I have then mostly used VEAL for tuning it. A great tool, makes tuning so much easier! The VE table is quite good now, but MAT correction keeps pushing me off.
About your method for ingition timing, you only use this for idle tuning right? I intend to use timing for idle speed correction, so I need to stay way below the optimal timing curve to have some timing in "reserve" on idle.
As for tuning timing, Im waiting for my dyno operator too get back from work. I will then do spark hook testing at several RPM and load cells too make the timing table better. I want to finish the exhaust and header install first though, so i dont have to do it 2 times..
My MAT correction IS crazy btw. It`s DIYautotune`s table that was supplied with the ECU (for a Supra 2JZ). Thanks for showing me yours!! this has been an issue since day one on this car. I will try it first thing
For the ignition timing it is only for idle and super low loads (pretty much the bottom right of the map). For MS I have idle advance turned off, I don't ever use it because I can never get it to work right. I'm also using a MS2, but looking at your 16x16, it seems you're using a MS3.
Anyway, for AEM EMS (just for future reference), I will do the same idle timing, then I'll pull ten degrees out for the idle advance, which helps it a lot especially if the car has A/C, or P/S idle up.
When you used VEAL, did you turn off your corrections too? When I first used MS, I forgot to turn it off, and when I did my map changed drastically. The problem is I live in TX, so one day it'll be cold (60F) then the next it'll be warm (80F), and others it would be downright hot (100F)!
So that gave me a hell of a time too. Since TX is mainly hot, I waited for a few days of hot weather, redid my VE map (turning off corrections), and got it dialed in. As the days shifted in temps (in the morning we'd get 70), at that point I was actually able to dial in my MAT corrections.
For the ignition timing it is only for idle and super low loads (pretty much the bottom right of the map). For MS I have idle advance turned off, I don't ever use it because I can never get it to work right. I'm also using a MS2, but looking at your 16x16, it seems you're using a MS3.
Anyway, for AEM EMS (just for future reference), I will do the same idle timing, then I'll pull ten degrees out for the idle advance, which helps it a lot especially if the car has A/C, or P/S idle up.
When you used VEAL, did you turn off your corrections too? When I first used MS, I forgot to turn it off, and when I did my map changed drastically. The problem is I live in TX, so one day it'll be cold (60F) then the next it'll be warm (80F), and others it would be downright hot (100F)!
So that gave me a hell of a time too. Since TX is mainly hot, I waited for a few days of hot weather, redid my VE map (turning off corrections), and got it dialed in. As the days shifted in temps (in the morning we'd get 70), at that point I was actually able to dial in my MAT corrections.
Im using MS3 yes. Its been a while, but doesnt MS2 (extra) have 16x 16 as well?
As for VEAL, I disabled EGO but not MAT. Im not sure whats best, I have never disabled MAT correction when tuning the VE table before.
Where I live temps are more stable. About 30-50 all winter, and 60-75 all summer.
Im using MS3 yes. Its been a while, but doesnt MS2 (extra) have 16x 16 as well?
As for VEAL, I disabled EGO but not MAT. Im not sure whats best, I have never disabled MAT correction when tuning the VE table before.
Where I live temps are more stable. About 30-50 all winter, and 60-75 all summer.
Good ole 12x12 unfortunately.
I've always had better results in disabling it, but to each their own. Some people on MSExtra say it's necessary, but other's have said it i is not. The MAT correction factor shouldn't be huge.
Finnally some progress!! I got the car dynoed yesterday, without headers. There was very little to be done from the street map. Apparently my internal gut mounted g-sensor is very fine tuned. Timing was almost perfect, we just did some minor tweaks from the spark hook test. The engine did not knock once, but did not make any more power with more timing either.
Added is a copy of my msq. I hope someone will make use of it.
Glad you updated your thread, I was wondering how this ended up going. Power seems pretty good too for a 20 year old motor
What octane are you running there?
30 degrees of timing at 7000 sounds like fun. Strange how it wouldn't make any more power on more timing. I wonder if octane is the limiter? It shouldn't be as you said you weren't knocking.
Im on 94. It never knocked, Im sure I could run 91 without any problems.
30 degrees is actually a common number for modern engines. They have more efficient combustion chambers etc and does not require all that timing for power. With more timing we made the same and in some cases less power with no knock.
We also tried to lean the fuel out and trick with timing but with 13.5:1 we made 4hp more than 12.6, so we decided to run 12.6-12.8 for better knock resistance. The engine should have plenty of headroom for trackdays!
Note this is without headers. Im sure they would net a lot more power in the high RPM range!
Oh no, I'm aware about timing, it's just I was never to push that on my SC400, but I was also supercharged. My IAT's would shoot through the roof, and it would get very light knock. It's been awhile, but I think my ignition values at 170 KPa was like 17.
Oh no, I'm aware about timing, it's just I was never to push that on my SC400, but I was also supercharged. My IAT's would shoot through the roof, and it would get very light knock. It's been awhile, but I think my ignition values at 170 KPa was like 17.
Sounds like a fun setup. Non intercooled engines can be hard too tune, you should try water injection
04-30-15, 10:44 PM
