onelt1

iTrader: (1)

I absolutely loved this. I cracked up laughing, knowing that this is very true. Once again, your build is awesome. Keep modding and you will never be satisfied, unless you sell it.

joewitafro

Right? I feel that money is the only thing that limits how much I want to build things. Often, I think of all the things I want to do to my lex, such as your build and realize I will probably drop 30k into it over the years to rebuild it new. But that's so much more satisfying for me than buying something new and pre built.

twojayzee

lol - Its funny how many people don't understand how builds spiral out of control. And the guys that do understand, can totally relate.

I think ill be right around that mark after the 13 year collection. And then it will be worth about 8-10k when its done.

twojayzee

Here's a few photos of the SLD that came on the motor, which undoubtedly had a roll in creating the crispy connectors and wire harness.

twojayzee

I was trying to get this in some type of order as to how the build happened, but I guess you'll just have to deal with photos and descriptions being thrown in here haphazardly...

With all the AN fittings/tube nuts and hard lines, I don't want fuel and oil spraying everywhere - but I also wanted to save a few penny's over buying one of the name brand pressure tester kits.

So I hit up grainger for some JIC plugs and made my own with shrader valves for a -6 and -8










Toss these bishes in the lathe. Drill and tap the hole and install the schrader valves. For those that don't know, you install one both ends and pressurize the line and then you can test pressure.
My PTFE lines for fuel held pressure for two days before I let the air out.

twojayzee

Purchased the PS/ALT and Water pump pulleys from Driftmotion for no apparent reason...





I mentioned the black theme i'm going with in the engine bay (seems that's pretty popular these days)

Here's the VDO fuel pressure gauge that goes in the AEM BDFPR.






I drilled and tapped the center of the rail. Feed in each side with center return.




I machined the ribs and name placard area off the top of the rail for a nice finish.

twojayzee

Picked up a Bosch 044 pump from Jayracing. There's a pretty sizable difference between stock.




And a check valve




Grabbed this fuel splitter with an 1/8" NPT fitting that im using for an analog sensor








I grabbed these fittings for the fuel pump







Then changed my mind about how to run the pump, so I grabbed a filter sock




I put it in a plastic bag and taped it off so I don't get it dirty while working on the setup

carbongs

iTrader: (13)

nice progress! lots of goodies there i've got some parts left over from my supra build i plan to put into my 1st gen gs300.

twojayzee

Do it !

I posted photos of the 75lb Siemens injectors earlier. I sold those and the acura injector resistor box so I could use these new high impedance 80lb Deka injectors... They are unused and need to be upgraded already.
Looking to use some 120lb

twojayzee

You saw the mess of fittings I already had... but I decided to ring up Jayracing again for their BA new micro check valve in a -8

Here it is, in its natural habitat







I mentioned the -8 filter a little earlier in the thread. I picked up these standoffs to make cleaning easier, and look better than zip ties.




I looked at putting it in the stock location




And in a few other spots




But settled on a spot that feels like it was meant for this to happen exactly 20yrs after the chassis rolled off the assembly line.






Still sets of so high, that I would have to jump the car and land on a rock; there by high centering the car... just to get to the filter

twojayzee

So... you've seen how mental some of my ideas are... This is where it starts to really go downhill... maybe good, maybe bad

I wanted the fuel system to be in the stock location without any fittings outside of the tank, or in the trunk.
The GS is similar to the MKIV in many regards, with exception of the tank placement.

The tank is in the trunk, and behind the rear seat.




The original hard-line fittings are under the car, above the 3rd member. Kind of a wh0re to get to.

joewitafro

I was thinking about the jays racing 044 but I ended up going with the walbro 416.

Did you leave the fuel pump ecu and wire in a relay?

twojayzee

You can fit damn near three of those walbros in place of this pump, so you did the right thing.

I wired up the infinity for a normal relay, but I may run a second pump via the oem fp ecu via pwm.
Or use that for the water injection system.

twojayzee

I didnt want to run a surge tank, but wanted this to be sealed up tight.
I was also a bit leary of having the AN bulkhead fittings with the PTFE washers - on the bottom of the tank.
Could I have done them out the top, or the side ? absolutely. Did that work in my head ? absolutely not...

Here's the obligatory Eff-Off tank photo after removal







Here's how the hardlines go into the tank - with banjo bolts

twojayzee

There are hard-lines brazed into the bottom of the tank. One is the supply line with what may be a 1/4" ID.




And the return with a 3/16" ID line and this funky return to prevent spray. The surface tension of the opening creates a trickle so it doesn't disturb the feed line.










What I was hoping to do was to screw another JIC fitting into the bottom of the tank, with a larger orifices.




Here's a Steel JIC bulkhead sitting in a hole after I opened it up.





I've welded gas tanks before, and do not recommend it for many reasons. What I will tell you is how I do it. (do not do this at home)
Drain the fuel 100%. Wash the tank with Dawn dish detergent.
Let the tank sit outside for a few days. Wash the tank again. Let it sit. Mine happened to sit outside in my shed for 3 months till there was zero trace of fuel smell.
Then washed it again before working on it.




TO BE CONTINUED