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Project Scarlett -> Slow NA-T Build"

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Old 08-26-14, 11:02 PM
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grumpi300
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Default Project Scarlett -> Slow NA-T Build"

this project is going to take me years to finish. i have had my 1992 lexus sc300 for about a year and i havent even really started on much of what i would like to except for one thing, wire tuck. but since i've had her for a while and been tinkering little things while trying to get her back to running smooth again, i think she's about as good as she can get without spending a lot more money. so its time to start a build thread.
i dont really have a lot of pictures from when i did buy her. but i think thats a good thing cause then you all will have thought she was done for. i mean everything was beat to crap from the fan shroud, to the rims, to the paint, wire hangers everywhere, bad battery tie down and more.
well i dont want to give too much details but i will post up pictures probably tomorrow.
for long term, my plans for my sc are to go full 2jz-gte and v160 swap running on a haltech standalone hopefully pushing 550-700hp. daily driver.
for short term, in order, buy a new guage cluster so i can get classic rod plates and never have to smog again, headers and full exhaust since i have an annoying exhaust leak, and r154 swap since my dad has one lying around. my automatic transmission is close to giving up on me so i need to swap transmissions soon.
for now i'm at 239,000 miles and wont stop until odometer reaches 999,999.
one last thing. i recently did a run for 1/4 mile and got an astonishing 17.154 seconds. i know its slow and excuses suck but last time i checked my compression, i had 80 on #3 cylinder, 110 on 2 cylinders and 140 on 3 if i recall correctly. anyways, i looked up a stock sc should get close to 15.6 seconds quarter mile so my car obviously has quite a few issues still, but its all to be resolved hopefully. i want to get 15 seconds before i even come close to swapping out engines so for now i have to see what needs to be fixed or changed so my sc runs at optimum.

Last edited by grumpi300; 08-26-14 at 11:11 PM.
Old 08-28-14, 10:05 PM
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well guys i'm trying to upload my pictures on here via photobucket but for some reason its not working on my tablet. anyways, I do have a question.
I just got my hands on a mk3 supra with the r154, slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch pedal and everything in-between. I was reading through https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-my-sc400.html this forum and it basically states that I can use all that stuff and put the trans on my car. all; I would need is the shifter extended and the 1jz to r154 bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch kit. is this correct?
cause i'm looking through driftmotion, and I can see extra stuff that I need like flywheel bolts and rear main seal and more. any tips?
so far i'm looking at spending 1040.50 on drifmotion on this stuff,
1jz to r154 bellhousing $342
full length clutch hose $ 45
rear main seal $ 38
marlin crawler urethane bushing for r154 $12
r154 bell housing bolts $ 10.50
stage 1 clutch kit for r154 $204
arp 1jz/2jz flywheel bolts $30
lightweight 1jz flywheel $359

Last edited by grumpi300; 08-28-14 at 10:08 PM.
Old 08-28-14, 10:12 PM
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grumpi300
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basically, I don't see how you guys all say you spend around 1200 for the whole conversion when I got about half the conversion down and I can still see spending $1040.50. I want to get it done for cheap but still goo. please help.
Old 08-29-14, 10:28 PM
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i finally was able to get the pictures off photobucket by switching from a tablet to a laptop. lol. but here's pics of where my car is at now. i havent really changed all that much from when i got it besides wheels, passenger seat that works, wire tuck and electric fan conversion. enjoy the pics. i'll give little details as they pass.

here you can see how bad i need a new fender. lol. i know i need a whole new paint job but thats least of my worries. i want to get it running how i want before i even think of paint.

here you can really see how bad the paint is

stock ride height. plan on fixing this in the long run.

this is my interior. i think it got the worst of all the damage. drivers seat is beat to crap. middle and passenger a/c vents broke so i took them out thinking i wouldve bought them faster. both door panels are beyond repair. list goes on and on. but at least i dyed and vinyl wrapped the interior from the dashboard down.




fuse box on the right side of the trunk

battery on the left side

here i was planning on putting my sub box but it didnt end up being big enough. so i just put my alpine amp there. its powered by a power acoustic head unit and its hooked up to 1 kicker 12" sub in a ported box. i basically got the whole system for free from my brother in law and cousin. cousin bought me the head unit, brother in law gave me the sub and amp.
i also need to weld the plate better. my buddy just wanted to do spot welds to hold it in place since i wanted it in place and he didnt have a welding mask to be able to finish.
Old 08-29-14, 10:33 PM
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i need to find the back of the trunk liner. thats all i need to have a complete good looking trunk.

this is what my car looked mostly like when i first bought it. this is after the electric fan conversion.

here is just a glimpse of what i went through to finish the wire tuck.

heres the glory shot.

horrible rusted out pulleys and paint under the engine bay too. when i bought the car it wasnt so bad. it all happened when the crappy battery tie down that the last owner put on came off, the battery moved and got stuck in between the fan and the power steering pully. battery acid went everywhere and screwed everything up.



i got the intake filter and pipe when i bought the car as well. i know they lose power but it looks better than stock so i decided to keep it.
thats all my pictures for now. i just bought the cluster so i can go classic rod and not worry about smog.

Last edited by grumpi300; 08-29-14 at 10:56 PM.
Old 08-29-14, 10:45 PM
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other things i havent mentioned, in one of the pictures you can slightly see blue paint on the firewall. well basically, living in the heat of las vegas, i completely removed my heater core and everything going to it. so i welded up the whole.
another thing, i did a 12v fuel pump mod so my fuel pump is always at battery power. i put a relay and powered it directly through the battery. so i believe this is why my car is running rich and burning gas real bad. last time i checked on idle, my fuel pump was running on 14.4volts at the cover behind the rear seat.
Old 09-03-14, 07:26 AM
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can someone help? I installed my clutch master cylinder and clutch pedal yesterday according to the r154 swap and mk3 pedals forum posted on the mega link thread. I am having an issue with how close the pedal is to the brake pedal, and how much travel it has. i'll posts some pics up in a bit. any advice?
Old 09-03-14, 08:29 PM
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i hope you didn't pay a lot for this car, that is in rough shape. good luck bringing it back, will be fun to see the progress. can't help you with the clutch problem though
Old 09-03-14, 10:33 PM
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yeah its in horrible shape. but i do plan on making it good again. i got it for 2200 after i sold my honda accord. i hated honda and really wanted a sc300 so i rushed into it. first sc i saw i bought. i guess you could say im a compulsive buyer. ahaha. but its been a long journey, i've put too much blood sweat and tears into it and im not gonna let it go now. i'm happy with what i have for now.
as far as the clutch pedal. i think the height is a little to low since its below the brake pedal, but i'm gonna leave it for now. i found out that the brake pedal is a little smaller if you buy the manual one. so i ordered one from the lexus in vegas and its around $94.00.
but anyways heres the pics.













in the pictures i used the computer for the telescopic steering wheel as a reference to show how close to the brake pedal the clutch pedal is, as well as how far back it sits behind the brake pedal. i'm really really hoping the manual transmission brake pedal fixes this issue.
Old 09-04-14, 07:29 AM
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i'm sorry but you paid waaaayyyy too much for it. and yea you need a smaller brake pedal if you have a clutch in there now.

sorry if this offends you but my SC400 was 2k, 214k miles, with coilovers, Supra BBK all around and a few other goodies and with some surface rust on the bottom quarter panels and roof. even then it was a bit high. just saying. this will surely be the definition of a money pit, good luck with it.
Old 09-04-14, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by oldManTan
i'm sorry but you paid waaaayyyy too much for it. and yea you need a smaller brake pedal if you have a clutch in there now.

sorry if this offends you but my SC400 was 2k, 214k miles, with coilovers, Supra BBK all around and a few other goodies and with some surface rust on the bottom quarter panels and roof. even then it was a bit high. just saying. this will surely be the definition of a money pit, good luck with it.
Very true. I paid $2250 for my SC3 and $1400 for the SC4... Both of which were 100% drive able and ready to go from day 1...

At least this way you'll know your car inside and out assuming you'll be doing your own work. If you plan to hire out most of the work then be prepared to lose your AS* on this car..

That being said, be glad you got a good platform and a car with huge potential. I left the DSM/Honda scene for the JZZ platform as well. I'll never look back.

Keep us posted with pictures and progress, these types of threads tend to turn into awesome builds
Old 09-04-14, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris9884
Very true. I paid $2250 for my SC3 and $1400 for the SC4... Both of which were 100% drive able and ready to go from day 1...

At least this way you'll know your car inside and out assuming you'll be doing your own work. If you plan to hire out most of the work then be prepared to lose your AS* on this car..

That being said, be glad you got a good platform and a car with huge potential. I left the DSM/Honda scene for the JZZ platform as well. I'll never look back.

Keep us posted with pictures and progress, these types of threads tend to turn into awesome builds
you should get another daily and just turn this into a crazy drift build
Old 09-06-14, 10:46 PM
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I have done and will do all the work myself. and trust me, nothing is going to feel better than when my car is in perfect condition. money pit or not, I've already invested too much to give up. even if I wanted to, I wouldn't have the heart. its my baby.
sorry oldmantan. I plan on driving her everyday. and I just bought the brake pedal for the sc300 manual trans. its a little different since the pin that hold the master cylinder in place is smaller on manual pedal. i'm either debating on enlarging the hole or using a smaller pin.
anyways, I know I paid too much. but like I said earlier, i'm happy with how far I've gotten and how much has changed. it really doesn't look like much, but its 100x better than when I bought it. I know this for a fact.
but all in all, I feel as if, if I were to paint my sc. it would look so much better and it would get a lot more respect than what its getting now.
any truth to this?
Old 09-06-14, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpi300
I have done and will do all the work myself. and trust me, nothing is going to feel better than when my car is in perfect condition. money pit or not, I've already invested too much to give up. even if I wanted to, I wouldn't have the heart. its my baby.
sorry oldmantan. I plan on driving her everyday. and I just bought the brake pedal for the sc300 manual trans. its a little different since the pin that hold the master cylinder in place is smaller on manual pedal. i'm either debating on enlarging the hole or using a smaller pin.
anyways, I know I paid too much. but like I said earlier, i'm happy with how far I've gotten and how much has changed. it really doesn't look like much, but its 100x better than when I bought it. I know this for a fact.
but all in all, I feel as if, if I were to paint my sc. it would look so much better and it would get a lot more respect than what its getting now.
any truth to this?
maybe the paint will, but then they'll get inside the car lol and it's back to square one. you got a lot of work ahead of you, this is a resto job, and make sure you restore it nicely before you do something crazy to it. this is just my opinion but i can't stand it when people drop a few grand on a turbo but their headlights are yellow, car is in awful condition and looks like a turd and all they care about is the turbo spooling. it's just stupid IMO. i believe it can definitely be restored back to its glory day shape, just a lot of work will need to be done, and we're here to help you out, so only encouragement on my end, didn't mean to put you down. good luck with it again.

oh and look into plastidip instead of painting your car! dipyourcar.com are the leaders in that stuff right now. it's pretty awesome stuff, and super cheap, i'll be dipping my car.
Old 09-07-14, 10:38 AM
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Welcome to the club....

While you may have paid too much to acquire the car the fact that you will be doing the work yourself and rebuild it past it's original glory is commendable. And, based on your responses you have "caught the bug" real bad so I can't wait to see your progress reports and pictures. This is a marathon and not a sprint so take your time.

These cars are "money pits"; since I am NOT a DIYer my rebuild costs are substantial and I knew I would NEVER recover the investment. I did not care and my car is not for sale. I think you will be there too so if you have the heart (and bank account) to complete this project you will truly end up with a gem of a car.....

Good luck; keep the updates and pictures coming; look forward to seeing how your vehicle evolves....

Last edited by Duck05; 12-21-14 at 02:00 PM.


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