grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

me venting again:
well I have so much plans for my car but I know patience is key. but damn it seems like i'm never gonna go na-t. with all the maintenance I need to put into my car, i'd be better off buying a new car, (figure of speech, I could never get rid of scarlett.) but from me needing coilovers cause my struts are done for, new cylinder head gasket cause mine is still leaking, new cluster cause all my lights are out, new tps cause my resistance readings aren't consistent with specs, new front bumper and rear bumper, while i'm at it just do 92-94 front bumper with lip, 97+ side skirts, 97+ rear bumper, new paint job cause you already know mine is crap, valve adjustment cause mine are tapping, diff bushings cause mine are done for, new upholstery casue mine is crap, hid kit cause I cant see out with my lights at all. that's just what I can think of wanting to do before I go na-t. that list alone will cost me several grand. then theres the whole going na-t process itself needing even more time and money.
and what sucks is I want to do it the right way but I want to go na-t sooner rather than later. the right way will take a lot longer as the cheaper way will be a tad bit faster but not how I really want.
differences in how I want would be ffim intake and standalone as where cheaper will be gte ecu and ge intake.
the way I REALLY want to do it is xspower intake manifold, gte iacv, ross machine racing throttle body and tps, bov, wastegate, daveh turbo kit pt61, 550cc injectors, dual gte fuel pumps, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, intercooler and piping, lq9 coils, arp head studs and gte head gasket, all on haltech management. :/ I just don't know if i'm going about this the right way though. should I just jump the gun and say go na-t, or do all the proper maintenance first?

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

got around to changing the wheel studs on my mother in laws sc430. she had big rims and the lugs were only grabbing on by 2 or 3 threads before. i thought this was majorly unsafe so i told her to get some extended studs. she agreed and 6 months later we both had to time for me to do it. haha. we got arp 7715. then i went to discount tire and got some open splined lug nuts since the studs were too long for a normal lug nut. the rim is big enough so you cant see the studs now, but enough to grab all the threads on the lug. much safer. here's pics.
ps, when doing the rear studs, dont. lol. big hassle. i had to remove the parking brakes and back out the cable, slightly bend the backing plate back enough for the stud to bite, the slightly hammer the stud straight. since it's too long, the proper way would have been to press out the hub from the spindle.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

Had my a/c compressor go out on me in the middle of vegas +105 degree weather. :/ a/c clutch locked up when i was leacing work. So I removed the a/c compressor and been driving it with windows down with a shorter belt.
sucks cause it's hot, but also because I was trying to save for some coilovers. since my girlfriends birthday is coming up I only had this time frame to buy them. After her birthday I got college to pay for. AND a vacation that my family planned. So I won't have another chance till the middle of September.
bought the condensor from parts geek for 235, compressor I'm getting from auto air and more for 239, and receiver drier for 31. All in all it comes out to 505. But at least I'll have a new compressor and hopefully better a/c.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

well my engine blew again. :/
I think that the oil pump that I got with the engine was no good cause every time I would idle the oil light would come on. so I was sitting at red lights with my engine revved a little but but I guess that didn't help. also my a/c compressor locked up 2 days prior to my engine knock and I found that my oil pressure went a little bit up when I removed the compressor. but by that time it was too late.
I guess now its time for me to do a full gte swap even though I always wanted na-t because of the oil squirters. but either way, I know they make a delete for them. this time I get to do stuff right, BECAUSE!!! I bought myself an frs. brand new 2015 6 speed manual. 73 miles on the odometer. I didn't have enough money to keep throwing at my car all while hoping to get it done in time so I can make it to work the next day. so I think this is a good investment so I can fix my car the way I really want to while still making it to work and back every day.
i'm thinking gte with oil squirters delete, balanced and blue printed engine, lightweight flywheel, stronger rods, gte headgasket with arp head studs and factory washers, single turbo with haltech ecu, maybe some 550cc injectors, dual tt fuel pumps, fluid damper torque damper, aluminum lightweight pulleys for alt, power steering. idk, just a little list of stuff I've always wanted.

ISFFUN

iTrader: (4)

I just read through this entire thread and at many points I said to myself "wow, what is this guy doing?!" As I got further along I realized you are dedicated and you always seem to get through whatever issue that comes up. Smart man. I'm sure there are more standardized/proper ways to do some of the things, but you managed to be crafty, so good work.

Sorry to hear about the engine. It's too bad you weren't aware of this from the beginning, but never trust an old oil pump and always replace it if you have the engine out. It's just too risky not too. Unfortunately that means taking off the oil pan, which is a serious bit** to do. I'm not sure why you relocated the filter as well.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

Yeah isffun. The more I think about Scarlett the more I want to have her fixed already. She's the first car I bought and I've spent so much time taking her apart and putting it back together that I know almost every bolt and nut. It's stupid to think I've spent so much and it still looks and runs like crap but it is my baby. :/
but here's a video of it.

oldManTan

so sad swap a V8 in it! at least you got a dope FRS lol, that's my next car.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

I honestly want a na-t 2jz over a v8 for now. Especially considering that I want to daily drive it without any problems for smog or anything. Once I get done with a full na-t project including coilovers , 1 piece driveshaft, and solid diff bushings then I'll buy another sc and would want to put a ls3 in there.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you don't need to do a oil squirter delete on a gte really, I would leave those on unless you are making a ton of HP. same with balance and blue print unless you plan on opening it up and building it from the ground up but that is even more costly, most of the time GTE motors are in good shape and just need the seals to be redone like headgasket, timing belt, water pump, oil pump etc.. If you are running 550cc injectors then you only need 1 TT fuel pump, with 2 pumps on 550's you will be returning alot of fuel to the tank, its unnecessary and costly. I have run 550's even with the stock fuel pump but thats not really recommended (I run 1 walboro now). ge and gte rods are good for over 800hp so no need to really to touch those either. with all those motor issues maybe a swap is not a bad idea but I am a little na-t biased =) if you need help with deciding on a setup feel free to PM me.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

I thought the stock bottom end on a ge was only good up to like 550 or 600hp? I didn't know it was 800. That makes me lean even more towards ge. Haha. Yeah I want to open up a full motor again and this time do it right. I would really love to blue print and balance, gasket match the intake and exhaust ports. Since I don't need to change rods I'll leave those. I also read somewhere of the best bearings and total seal piston rings to get. I don't know of the name now but I would want to go towards those. I'll try and find them again for you guys.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

So knowing that the factory bottom end can handle up to 800 horses, I still want to upgrade the internals to be better suited for daily driving. I know the clutch I picked is hard to get used to for daily driving but I'm OK with that. I have made a list and goal of stuff to aquire for just the bottom end for now. Once I get the bottom end done, I wanna get the motor in place and ready for heads and the rest of the mods inclusing na-t. Here's the list for now.
Ps. I just got a new job cause **** firestone managers. Haha. I work 6 days a week 60 hours a week but I get paid more now that I ever did at firestone. So I'm hyping myself up to really get my baby Scarlett back on the road
BOTTOM END
Fluid damper harmonic balancer
Flywheel lock ring and flywheel insert (I have dm lightweight)
Wiseco 86.5mm (8.5:1) pistons with rings
Eagle rods
Acl race bearings (thrust bearing, main bearings and rod bearings)
Titan motors ports oil pump
Factory water pump
2jz ge head gasket
Act extreme 6 puck clutch kit
-10 an turbo oil return line
Dynamic balance
Machine deck

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

Well I haven't gotten anything done on my baby besides taking off the intake and valve covers still. Unfortunately it's gonna be that way for a while until I buy everything that I need. I'm deciding to only buy ffim, hopefully Ross machine racing tb if they still sell them when I have the money, intercooler and piping, lq9 coils and an am v2. I've decided on aem because everybody tunes it and knows it. There's nowhere I can go that people won't know how to tune it. I'm also going to need a new block because I want to drill and tap mine for turbo oil feed through the galleys. But I feel like I have to cut my block in half to find out how to get oil to the exhaust side of the block galleys.

Unless someone can show me where to drill and tap the block for oil galleys.

Well first two pictures show my frs with a battery relocation. I've spend 250 on everything so far and I'm still not done. The wiring in the trunk is **** but only because I was rushed to be able to take my car to work. I'll fix it soon. The third picture is me finally having bought my spare key. After 3 years of having owned my car I finally got a spare key. Lol.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

Found couple problems on my engine.
Picture 1 is of my crank rod bea ring journal. #1, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are all in perfect condition. Picture 2 is my #2 rod bearing journal. The bearing spun and destroyed my rod and crank. I could fix them but choosing not to. Would rather get a new motor and rebuild it.
Picture 3 is one half of the bearing that spun. Almost nothing left.
Picture 4 and 5 is my camshaft. Every single bearing and journal on the camshaft is scored. Both intake and exhaust.
Picture six is the bearings that are pressed in to cover the oil galleys. My next block I want to drill these out and make the oil galley on the exhaust side usable so I can put my oil feed there. I don't want to use the union bolt or anything else. I took a Crack at drilling them today but couldn't even start to drill cause my drill bits suck. So I'll pay a machine shop to do it. Getting a new block either way but I just wanted to see how to do it since there's no write up.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

I finally bought all 6 gte pistons. Lowered compression is a go.
Starting Feb 15 I'm gonna start saving for pauter rods. then I get arp main studs and head studs. Get a buy new block and take it to get main honed and test fitted to figure out what bearings and rings to buy. Also going to go with total seal gapless second rings'.
Will keep you all updated.
Ps, I would save up for all this now but my frs payments are kinda kicking my butt. I'm just trying to get one payment ahead so have been and will be broke till Feb 15th.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

Also, one other thing I plan on doing on my own is smoothing out the oil galleys. The bends are pretty rough and rugged. I tried doing it on this block but ended up making it a little bit worse. So I'll see if insane power can do it, if not then I'll take another try with my new block.