SQ competition 96 LS
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
SQ competition 96 LS
So I've got this car a few weeks ago at 139k km
Now after 3000km driving it, I'm sold and it's now time to get to work.
Things that are already been done
Now since I got the car it was involved in 2 minor accidents,both I wasn't responsible but still pissed me off and caused 2500$ in damage. The shop should be able to fix it in a couple of weeks.
Before talking about the SQ part here's the other things I plan on doing
the day i got it
Now after 3000km driving it, I'm sold and it's now time to get to work.
Things that are already been done
- Changed engine oil with big filter
- Replaced the temp sensor
- Cleaned the clogged radiator fin
- Relocated the AC/Heater control
- Fixed the 12v lighter plug
- Fixed the leaky trunk gasket
- Cleaned the exhaust pipe that had a melted plastic grocery bag glue to it
- Replaced all caps in the ECU
- Adjusted the headlight and installed some 95w off-road halogen OSRAM bulb
- Replaced the hood struts
- Removed the 2 mufflers
- Installed new wiper blades
- Hack the air box for more cold air
- And a few other small things
Now since I got the car it was involved in 2 minor accidents,both I wasn't responsible but still pissed me off and caused 2500$ in damage. The shop should be able to fix it in a couple of weeks.
Before talking about the SQ part here's the other things I plan on doing
- Install Megan street LP coilovers (ordered)
- Install engine and tranny mount (got the oem one)
- Replace the broken L logo on the trunk
- Install a badgeless grille
- Install some clear corner lights
- Replace the broken side lamp/marker
- Install a TC from lextreme
- Install a shift kit
- Install S&S headers
- Install a super M90 or M112 supercharger
- Get some decent tires
the day i got it
Last edited by lexmoose; 08-27-14 at 04:49 PM.
#2
Pole Position
Thread Starter
So to give you an idea of where I wan to bring the LS in term of SQ here's some picture of my current setup in a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan (bought in 2010 after a drunk driver totaled my 2 cars parked in my driveway...)
In the front I have the 4.5" mid and tweeter in the pillar. In the doors there's 8.5" midbass and roughly 40lbs of sound deadening in each doors.
The reason I liked this van is this, everything hidden in the floor in the stow n go area. Here you have a 2nd battery in its own externely vented battery box, all the power distribution, 4 amps and my DSP.
In the back, 2 15" in a sealed box that also in the back stow n go with a cover on top with heavy duty grill
Ok before some of you start bashing my choice of vehicle, this is what I could afford and suited my need. I have 3 children and the youngest was in its very large baby seat so a 5 seater was not possible. Now she's in a booster and the family can fit in the LS Also I needed something that could pull my tent trailer.
OK, this is not your average stereo. In this install every speaker is getting a channel of amplification. This way I can run without any passive crossover and everything is done by the DSP.
To start this install Ill will be using my Carrozzeria (Pioneer JDM) deck using 2 pairs of RCA to feed the Helix C-DSP processor that will be installed in the trunk near the amps. This way the signal coming out of the DSP will be shorter and reduce noise.
2 Kinetik HC2000 will be install in the trunk and the front one will be remove, the amps will have a very short power runs resulting in less power loss. Front terminals and alternator will be linked to 1/0 gauge power wire that will go to the battery in the back. The amps will be 2 JL Audio HD600/4 powering the front speaker (one for each side for better channel separation) and 2 JL Audio HD1200/1 powering each sub. Ill have 3600watts of power available, but the system will probably only use 1/10 of that in normal use. This extra headroom help to reduce noise since the gains are really low and also to help with dynamics in the music, some songs are really demanding and if your amplification is at its limit you will get distortion and less control.
Speakers, let start with the tweeters, the plan is to simply use the factory location and install some caseless HAT L1v2 since Ill be using a wideband driver playing from ~200Hz up to 15kHz in the pillar, so the location is not really crutial but will help on the top end fort those who can still hear that high.
Midrange, Ill try to go with my current 4.5" driver (HAT L4SE) in the pillar or dash pods. If they don't fit Ill try with the L3SE. This driver IMO is the most crucial since it play the largest part in the system (~200Hz up to 15kHz).
Midbass, the plan is to open up the firewall and install the HAT L8 in the kick panel (footrest area) vented outside . If that doesn't work ill probably go with 5.25" mibass in the doors and install a woofer where the glovebox and CD player are.
Sub(s), 2 HAT C15SW 15" will be hanging from a rack sealed under the rear shelf. Ill cut an oval opening to vent them in the cabin. The actual trunk will become the enclosure, this should provide me enough low end to play the 18Hz note from track 6 on the IASCA CD.
Ill add to this thread as a slowly progress.
In the front I have the 4.5" mid and tweeter in the pillar. In the doors there's 8.5" midbass and roughly 40lbs of sound deadening in each doors.
The reason I liked this van is this, everything hidden in the floor in the stow n go area. Here you have a 2nd battery in its own externely vented battery box, all the power distribution, 4 amps and my DSP.
In the back, 2 15" in a sealed box that also in the back stow n go with a cover on top with heavy duty grill
Ok before some of you start bashing my choice of vehicle, this is what I could afford and suited my need. I have 3 children and the youngest was in its very large baby seat so a 5 seater was not possible. Now she's in a booster and the family can fit in the LS Also I needed something that could pull my tent trailer.
OK, this is not your average stereo. In this install every speaker is getting a channel of amplification. This way I can run without any passive crossover and everything is done by the DSP.
To start this install Ill will be using my Carrozzeria (Pioneer JDM) deck using 2 pairs of RCA to feed the Helix C-DSP processor that will be installed in the trunk near the amps. This way the signal coming out of the DSP will be shorter and reduce noise.
2 Kinetik HC2000 will be install in the trunk and the front one will be remove, the amps will have a very short power runs resulting in less power loss. Front terminals and alternator will be linked to 1/0 gauge power wire that will go to the battery in the back. The amps will be 2 JL Audio HD600/4 powering the front speaker (one for each side for better channel separation) and 2 JL Audio HD1200/1 powering each sub. Ill have 3600watts of power available, but the system will probably only use 1/10 of that in normal use. This extra headroom help to reduce noise since the gains are really low and also to help with dynamics in the music, some songs are really demanding and if your amplification is at its limit you will get distortion and less control.
Speakers, let start with the tweeters, the plan is to simply use the factory location and install some caseless HAT L1v2 since Ill be using a wideband driver playing from ~200Hz up to 15kHz in the pillar, so the location is not really crutial but will help on the top end fort those who can still hear that high.
Midrange, Ill try to go with my current 4.5" driver (HAT L4SE) in the pillar or dash pods. If they don't fit Ill try with the L3SE. This driver IMO is the most crucial since it play the largest part in the system (~200Hz up to 15kHz).
Midbass, the plan is to open up the firewall and install the HAT L8 in the kick panel (footrest area) vented outside . If that doesn't work ill probably go with 5.25" mibass in the doors and install a woofer where the glovebox and CD player are.
Sub(s), 2 HAT C15SW 15" will be hanging from a rack sealed under the rear shelf. Ill cut an oval opening to vent them in the cabin. The actual trunk will become the enclosure, this should provide me enough low end to play the 18Hz note from track 6 on the IASCA CD.
Ill add to this thread as a slowly progress.
Last edited by lexmoose; 08-25-14 at 09:47 PM.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Ah yes, the thread I've been waiting for! For the doors, you can actually fit up to 8" drivers in, but depth becomes something you have to worry about. As far as my own personal research on the subject goes, keeping it at 3" or less seems to be ideal. Personally, I'm going with 6.5s for midbass duty when I get to that point.
For your battery location, I imagine you're using one of those corner "pockets" right? I was thinking of doing something similar, though I was looking more to use a Northstar AGM-31 in the left pocket, and use a Northstar AGM-24 up front.
Definitely looking forward to seeing how you tackle the subwoofer, and midrange, as those are the two areas you don't see (m)any people going custom with. If you're looking for any inspiration on the "low" end of things, check out Shmee's build thread, as he details how he cut out a portion of the rear deck to install a custom baffle to facilitate the mounting of an Acoustic Elegance SBP12.
For your battery location, I imagine you're using one of those corner "pockets" right? I was thinking of doing something similar, though I was looking more to use a Northstar AGM-31 in the left pocket, and use a Northstar AGM-24 up front.
Definitely looking forward to seeing how you tackle the subwoofer, and midrange, as those are the two areas you don't see (m)any people going custom with. If you're looking for any inspiration on the "low" end of things, check out Shmee's build thread, as he details how he cut out a portion of the rear deck to install a custom baffle to facilitate the mounting of an Acoustic Elegance SBP12.
#4
So I've got this car a few weeks ago at 139k km
Now after 3000km driving it, I'm sold and it's now time to get to work.
Things that are already been done
Now since I got the car it was involved in 2 minor accidents,both I wasn't responsible but still pissed me off and caused 2500$ in damage. The shop should be able to fix it in a couple of weeks.
Before talking about the SQ part here's the other things I plan on doing
Now after 3000km driving it, I'm sold and it's now time to get to work.
Things that are already been done
- Changed engine oil with big filter
- Replaced the temp sensor
- Cleaned the clogged radiator fin
- Relocated the AC/Heater control
- Fixed the 12v lighter plug
- Fixed the leaky trunk gasket
- Cleaned the exhaust pipe that had a melted plastic grocery bag glue to it
- Replaced all caps in the ECU
- Adjusted the headlight and installed some 95w off-road halogen OSRAM bulb
- Replaced the hood struts
- Removed the 2 mufflers
- Installed new wiper blades
- And a few other small things
Now since I got the car it was involved in 2 minor accidents,both I wasn't responsible but still pissed me off and caused 2500$ in damage. The shop should be able to fix it in a couple of weeks.
Before talking about the SQ part here's the other things I plan on doing
- Install Megan street LP coilovers (ordered)
- Install engine and tranny mount (got the oem one)
- Replace the broken L logo on the trunk
- Install a badgeless grille
- Install some clear corner lights
- Replace the broken side lamp/marker
- Install a TC from lextreme
- Install a shift kit
- Install S&S headers
- Install a super M90 or M112 supercharger
- Get some decent tires
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
So you're turning this into a SQ and track car? Hmmm, completely interested now. I was thinking about getting one of those high stall torque converters to just put on with stock everything else.. That way I can be that a**hole that speeds off from the red light and cuts everybody else off to make a turn. Get some payback after being a trucker for all these years .
Supercharger and headers are the last pieces and won't happen this year unless I can find a shop that can help me for really cheap lol
One thing I just added to the list is to hack my air box to get more cold air going in as I noticed a noticeable difference in power between warm ( 76F) and hot (95F)
#6
Yup the plan is to keep a stock looking car with *****. Even keeping the factory 16" wheels unless I find some 430 ones before I purchase new rubber.
Supercharger and headers are the last pieces and won't happen this year unless I can find a shop that can help me for really cheap lol
One thing I just added to the list is to hack my air box to get more cold air going in as I noticed a noticeable difference in power between warm ( 76F) and hot (95F)
Supercharger and headers are the last pieces and won't happen this year unless I can find a shop that can help me for really cheap lol
One thing I just added to the list is to hack my air box to get more cold air going in as I noticed a noticeable difference in power between warm ( 76F) and hot (95F)
you're gonna do jbrady's intake mod?
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Yup that's the one, but first Ill try to simply attach the filter using a rubber piece to fill the gap and remove the box, don't want to hack that box and realise that it's too loud or produce some ill effects (doubt it)
Can't wait to get some FI on this bad boy, but priority is to get some SQ out of it.
BTW got the skinny rod too, but I'm not looking to get 500 at the wheels, goal is to get around 350 if possible on stock injectors, ECU, everything...
Can't wait to get some FI on this bad boy, but priority is to get some SQ out of it.
BTW got the skinny rod too, but I'm not looking to get 500 at the wheels, goal is to get around 350 if possible on stock injectors, ECU, everything...
Trending Topics
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Did the jbrady intake mod today and all I can say is wow
It add a really nice sound at high rev and seems to add some power bit off power
The extra power seems to start at around 3k rpm, now if i lock it in first rev up to 3k and then go WOT I get some wheel spin It never did this before so that's why I assume it must be the mod
Before all that, when I opened the hood first thing I noticed is that the front screw that hold the battery was gone, ended up using the screw that hold the weight on the air box
It add a really nice sound at high rev and seems to add some power bit off power
The extra power seems to start at around 3k rpm, now if i lock it in first rev up to 3k and then go WOT I get some wheel spin It never did this before so that's why I assume it must be the mod
Before all that, when I opened the hood first thing I noticed is that the front screw that hold the battery was gone, ended up using the screw that hold the weight on the air box
Last edited by lexmoose; 08-27-14 at 05:14 PM.
#10
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Ok so here's the final look after the air box hack
yup look stock, so here's some pics of the box
Yes that filter is filthy, I have ordered one on Amazon since dealer don't even carry them...
Now I've receive some goodies today
First, Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L1v2 (caseless edition). Those will fit nicely in the factory tweeter location
Second, my Megan coilovers
Now if you remember in my first post I ordered the Street LP and those are blue... Yup they sent me the EZ one. The guys at Vivid racing have taken care of me and the right set are on their way.
yup look stock, so here's some pics of the box
Yes that filter is filthy, I have ordered one on Amazon since dealer don't even carry them...
Now I've receive some goodies today
First, Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L1v2 (caseless edition). Those will fit nicely in the factory tweeter location
Second, my Megan coilovers
Now if you remember in my first post I ordered the Street LP and those are blue... Yup they sent me the EZ one. The guys at Vivid racing have taken care of me and the right set are on their way.
#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Humm failure was an option today. Decided to change the engine and transmission mount today, but apparently I didn't had the right tools.
Plan was to backup the car on ramp and then lift the front to put it on jack stand. Yeah I could get the jack to the crossmember using this method.
Then I decided to put the front on ramp and use 2x10 on the back wheel. This way I had enough clearance on the differential and up it went until I realized that my jack was pulling the car out of the ramp in front while raising. I stopped at the limit I considered safe and installed the jack stand in the back at the pinch point. Now get the jack under the crossmember and same thing happened and the jack pull the car to the front getting the back stand in an angle... put the front on stand and went back to raise it a little to put back the stand straight. She's UP!
I'm 6'4 and realized that to work underneath I will need more clearance, can't even get a visual of the mount... At this point I'm getting angry...
So 30 min lunch break, now ready to get this thing higher
Come back to the car and the stand in front have sink 1/2 inch in the asphalt... I had enough, installed back the front tires and lower it back off the stands.
Now I've got an 1/4 aluminum plate Ill cut for the stands to prevent it from sinking, but wondering how high you guys had your car when you changed yours.
Plan was to backup the car on ramp and then lift the front to put it on jack stand. Yeah I could get the jack to the crossmember using this method.
Then I decided to put the front on ramp and use 2x10 on the back wheel. This way I had enough clearance on the differential and up it went until I realized that my jack was pulling the car out of the ramp in front while raising. I stopped at the limit I considered safe and installed the jack stand in the back at the pinch point. Now get the jack under the crossmember and same thing happened and the jack pull the car to the front getting the back stand in an angle... put the front on stand and went back to raise it a little to put back the stand straight. She's UP!
I'm 6'4 and realized that to work underneath I will need more clearance, can't even get a visual of the mount... At this point I'm getting angry...
So 30 min lunch break, now ready to get this thing higher
Come back to the car and the stand in front have sink 1/2 inch in the asphalt... I had enough, installed back the front tires and lower it back off the stands.
Now I've got an 1/4 aluminum plate Ill cut for the stands to prevent it from sinking, but wondering how high you guys had your car when you changed yours.