95' Sc300 W' 68K Miles~Slow Morph to NA/T Thread
#226
Time for some sticky tires! A good tire will correct all that wheel spin 100%. Glad you are happy with it, sounds like another successful JDM GTE ecu conversion.
Have you double checked that your not hitting a higher boost than before? I've never actually hit boost cut on mine and I have roughly 20% pulled out through the RPM range, I keep it around 16psi. I would double check this as you may be higher than you think which is hitting this limit.
Have you double checked that your not hitting a higher boost than before? I've never actually hit boost cut on mine and I have roughly 20% pulled out through the RPM range, I keep it around 16psi. I would double check this as you may be higher than you think which is hitting this limit.
#230
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
One of the "perks" of running the apexi safc and 550cc injectors is that fuel adjustments made are to the map sensor voltage in that rpm range. This adjustment changes the point where you would normally hit fuel cut at (appx 13-14psi depending on elevation),which could be now 18-20psi. So it's almost like a free BCC mod because you don't completely remove the fuel cut, just raise it alittle.
I've never actually hit fuel cut on mine and I've ran 17-18psi before which makes me wonder where yours is set at, we have similar setups.
I've never actually hit fuel cut on mine and I've ran 17-18psi before which makes me wonder where yours is set at, we have similar setups.
#231
One of the "perks" of running the apexi safc and 550cc injectors is that fuel adjustments made are to the map sensor voltage in that rpm range. This adjustment changes the point where you would normally hit fuel cut at (appx 13-14psi depending on elevation),which could be now 18-20psi. So it's almost like a free BCC mod because you don't completely remove the fuel cut, just raise it alittle.
I've never actually hit fuel cut on mine and I've ran 17-18psi before which makes me wonder where yours is set at, we have similar setups.
I've never actually hit fuel cut on mine and I've ran 17-18psi before which makes me wonder where yours is set at, we have similar setups.
#232
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
you can use the safc to do it but its more complex cause you are pulling percentages so they have to pull just the right amount of percentage to raise boost cut enough, without taking away too much fuel that you would go lean. if your tuner is familiar with it its possible to set it up decently well like that. you should be good for 16 psi either way, its possible you spiked a little bit electronic boost controllers tend to do that sometimes before they home in on the right value. your tuner is new to the gte ecu, so there will be a learning curve but its already "tuned" you are just doing simple fuel adjustment and a boost cut bypass.
you can actually go way past boost cut if you are holding the throttle down less than 75% (neat and sometimes scary trick). like on a usdm mk4 supra with bpu twins you can build over 20 pounds with the throttle below that and it won't actually cut till you push the throttle down all the way, it uses the tps as a factor also (pretty neat right?). so if you are laying into it you will definately hit boost cut if your tps is working, but if you are in that part throttle zone its actually possible to pass it, one of those quirks to watch out for. its harder on a single turbo though to do that usually you are fully on the throttle at that psi. -Ali SC3's daily dose of slightly useful information other people don't seem to notice =)
the rev limiter just cuts out for a second and holds the rpm, you know you hit boost cut when the rpm's fall and pressing the throttle again does literally nothing.
Also the Check engine light blinks a few times to let you know you hit boost cut. you sort of get used to it after a while lol.
I usually only hit it when the weather changes, as it starts to get colder the car builds more boost and will usually want to overboost, and here in denver the morning are cool even in the summer, winter here my turbo feels like its been upgraded compared to summer.. just wait till it gets a little cooler in NYC and you will love it even more.
you can actually go way past boost cut if you are holding the throttle down less than 75% (neat and sometimes scary trick). like on a usdm mk4 supra with bpu twins you can build over 20 pounds with the throttle below that and it won't actually cut till you push the throttle down all the way, it uses the tps as a factor also (pretty neat right?). so if you are laying into it you will definately hit boost cut if your tps is working, but if you are in that part throttle zone its actually possible to pass it, one of those quirks to watch out for. its harder on a single turbo though to do that usually you are fully on the throttle at that psi. -Ali SC3's daily dose of slightly useful information other people don't seem to notice =)
the rev limiter just cuts out for a second and holds the rpm, you know you hit boost cut when the rpm's fall and pressing the throttle again does literally nothing.
Also the Check engine light blinks a few times to let you know you hit boost cut. you sort of get used to it after a while lol.
I usually only hit it when the weather changes, as it starts to get colder the car builds more boost and will usually want to overboost, and here in denver the morning are cool even in the summer, winter here my turbo feels like its been upgraded compared to summer.. just wait till it gets a little cooler in NYC and you will love it even more.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-02-15 at 11:17 AM.
#233
Pole Position
iTrader: (18)
Exactly....I am running straight off wastegate at 14psi spring and I rarely hit boost cut in the summer...
But when it starts to cool down I seem to hit boost cut at every pull.....
Studio dont you have a map ecu3? why not get that setup and you can raise the boost cut
I havent got around to installing my mapecu2 yet but I am going to run it with the stock 440cc injectors and see how much I can squeeze out of them without going to lean
But when it starts to cool down I seem to hit boost cut at every pull.....
Studio dont you have a map ecu3? why not get that setup and you can raise the boost cut
I havent got around to installing my mapecu2 yet but I am going to run it with the stock 440cc injectors and see how much I can squeeze out of them without going to lean
#235
you can use the safc to do it but its more complex cause you are pulling percentages so they have to pull just the right amount of percentage to raise boost cut enough, without taking away too much fuel that you would go lean. if your tuner is familiar with it its possible to set it up decently well like that. you should be good for 16 psi either way, its possible you spiked a little bit electronic boost controllers tend to do that sometimes before they home in on the right value. your tuner is new to the gte ecu, so there will be a learning curve but its already "tuned" you are just doing simple fuel adjustment and a boost cut bypass.
you can actually go way past boost cut if you are holding the throttle down less than 75% (neat and sometimes scary trick). like on a usdm mk4 supra with bpu twins you can build over 20 pounds with the throttle below that and it won't actually cut till you push the throttle down all the way, it uses the tps as a factor also (pretty neat right?). so if you are laying into it you will definately hit boost cut if your tps is working, but if you are in that part throttle zone its actually possible to pass it, one of those quirks to watch out for. its harder on a single turbo though to do that usually you are fully on the throttle at that psi. -Ali SC3's daily dose of slightly useful information other people don't seem to notice =)
the rev limiter just cuts out for a second and holds the rpm, you know you hit boost cut when the rpm's fall and pressing the throttle again does literally nothing.
Also the Check engine light blinks a few times to let you know you hit boost cut. you sort of get used to it after a while lol.
I usually only hit it when the weather changes, as it starts to get colder the car builds more boost and will usually want to overboost, and here in denver the morning are cool even in the summer, winter here my turbo feels like its been upgraded compared to summer.. just wait till it gets a little cooler in NYC and you will love it even more.
you can actually go way past boost cut if you are holding the throttle down less than 75% (neat and sometimes scary trick). like on a usdm mk4 supra with bpu twins you can build over 20 pounds with the throttle below that and it won't actually cut till you push the throttle down all the way, it uses the tps as a factor also (pretty neat right?). so if you are laying into it you will definately hit boost cut if your tps is working, but if you are in that part throttle zone its actually possible to pass it, one of those quirks to watch out for. its harder on a single turbo though to do that usually you are fully on the throttle at that psi. -Ali SC3's daily dose of slightly useful information other people don't seem to notice =)
the rev limiter just cuts out for a second and holds the rpm, you know you hit boost cut when the rpm's fall and pressing the throttle again does literally nothing.
Also the Check engine light blinks a few times to let you know you hit boost cut. you sort of get used to it after a while lol.
I usually only hit it when the weather changes, as it starts to get colder the car builds more boost and will usually want to overboost, and here in denver the morning are cool even in the summer, winter here my turbo feels like its been upgraded compared to summer.. just wait till it gets a little cooler in NYC and you will love it even more.
I think that may be what happened by accident. I was dragging out (I think) third a bit trying to stay in boost. I was dragging it at various throttles quite a bit as it was perfect for the road, to keep the pressure up. Once I was at about 75% and slowly sped up. The car took off faster than I have seen since, and that is exactly when the car did that crazy, loud, abrupt deceleration.
It was the most exhilarating moment so far.
PS: It's extremely useful. Now I know how to do it again!
Last edited by Studiogeek; 09-04-15 at 08:19 PM.
#239
Pole Position
iTrader: (18)
Basically straight piped with a canister style muffler on tail...it is very loud....but I wanted to have best performance benefit of straight 3" for turbo
Here is an older video I made from Dec 2014....same setup still though....keep in mind this is just revving it is way louder when it is under load....
I have been meaning to get a better in car video of it
Ask 97-SC300 aka Dmitry....he has rode in my car....might have another insight on how loud it is...
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TitanG545 (07-28-20)
#240
I have full 3" single from turbo back....no cat, no resonators, no nothing...lol...
Basically straight piped with a canister style muffler on tail...it is very loud....but I wanted to have best performance benefit of straight 3" for turbo
Here is an older video I made from Dec 2014....same setup still though....keep in mind this is just revving it is way louder when it is under load....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUEgjvWQ7bk
I have been meaning to get a better in car video of it
Ask 97-SC300 aka Dmitry....he has rode in my car....might have another insight on how loud it is...
Basically straight piped with a canister style muffler on tail...it is very loud....but I wanted to have best performance benefit of straight 3" for turbo
Here is an older video I made from Dec 2014....same setup still though....keep in mind this is just revving it is way louder when it is under load....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUEgjvWQ7bk
I have been meaning to get a better in car video of it
Ask 97-SC300 aka Dmitry....he has rode in my car....might have another insight on how loud it is...
Thanks!