Aaron's 97 SC300 NA-T Build
#17
To answer your question why I choose the JDM Aristo ECU; because of the fact that it is a MAP Based ECU. Meaning no vacuum leak issues like other 96+ cars that run MAF's.. MAF guys will find out how big of a PITA they can be. One - Toyota wants $1,039 for a TT-MAF Sensor.. and Two- I learned my lesson in the early 90's with DSM's lol
Secondly, I had already acquired nearly all of the parts aside from Injectors to run the Aristo ECU. Aside from some guinea pigs testing and a lot of research I found out that the JDM ECU will compensate for larger 550cc Injectors, so wa-la, I didn't need the USDM ECU.
Third was that fact that I am Emissions Exempt; my county does not require me to have them so it was an easier path to go with. I know I will not be able to utilize my OBDII after the MOD; but who cares.. I won't need it lol. Some people are finicky and want all their options in tact.. That would be my route if I planned on selling the car down the road as people like **** not hacked. and it wont be either just doesn't bother me.
and finally, COST OF COURSE !!! It was going to be upwards of $2,500 to get all necessary components and tuning to run an AEM.. not ideal for me lol.. plus there has been an abundance of success using the TT-ECU Mod and I can run it on the stock distributor now thank to Ali SC3 and HIPSI as a subject lol.
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I will most definitely be posting how things work out together and what problem I come across on the way. Hopefully my endless question aren't an annoyance lol. There are plenty of threads on here saying how the Trans. will work fine.. Some have coeds, none that will hurt the trans or drive-ability. So far the only one real main issue is not getting TCC Lock Up, so basically if you do a lot of highway driving you will be getting poor gas mileage.. Honestly I think Ali SC3 has come up with a solution for that too though..
To answer your question why I choose the JDM Aristo ECU; because of the fact that it is a MAP Based ECU. Meaning no vacuum leak issues like other 96+ cars that run MAF's.. MAF guys will find out how big of a PITA they can be. One - Toyota wants $1,039 for a TT-MAF Sensor.. and Two- I learned my lesson in the early 90's with DSM's lol
Secondly, I had already acquired nearly all of the parts aside from Injectors to run the Aristo ECU. Aside from some guinea pigs testing and a lot of research I found out that the JDM ECU will compensate for larger 550cc Injectors, so wa-la, I didn't need the USDM ECU.
Third was that fact that I am Emissions Exempt; my county does not require me to have them so it was an easier path to go with. I know I will not be able to utilize my OBDII after the MOD; but who cares.. I won't need it lol. Some people are finicky and want all their options in tact.. That would be my route if I planned on selling the car down the road as people like **** not hacked. and it wont be either just doesn't bother me.
and finally, COST OF COURSE !!! It was going to be upwards of $2,500 to get all necessary components and tuning to run an AEM.. not ideal for me lol.. plus there has been an abundance of success using the TT-ECU Mod and I can run it on the stock distributor now thank to Ali SC3 and HIPSI as a subject lol.
To answer your question why I choose the JDM Aristo ECU; because of the fact that it is a MAP Based ECU. Meaning no vacuum leak issues like other 96+ cars that run MAF's.. MAF guys will find out how big of a PITA they can be. One - Toyota wants $1,039 for a TT-MAF Sensor.. and Two- I learned my lesson in the early 90's with DSM's lol
Secondly, I had already acquired nearly all of the parts aside from Injectors to run the Aristo ECU. Aside from some guinea pigs testing and a lot of research I found out that the JDM ECU will compensate for larger 550cc Injectors, so wa-la, I didn't need the USDM ECU.
Third was that fact that I am Emissions Exempt; my county does not require me to have them so it was an easier path to go with. I know I will not be able to utilize my OBDII after the MOD; but who cares.. I won't need it lol. Some people are finicky and want all their options in tact.. That would be my route if I planned on selling the car down the road as people like **** not hacked. and it wont be either just doesn't bother me.
and finally, COST OF COURSE !!! It was going to be upwards of $2,500 to get all necessary components and tuning to run an AEM.. not ideal for me lol.. plus there has been an abundance of success using the TT-ECU Mod and I can run it on the stock distributor now thank to Ali SC3 and HIPSI as a subject lol.
How do I find all the threads regarding auto stuff?
Sorry new here
#19
I got my ECU, DS62 Ignitor and some other stuff from a member on here in the classifides section just gotta keep an eye out for what you need.. and be paitent .. it's not a race until the turbo is on lol..
Almost all information I have gatherd and seen tested and done were all listed in Ali SC3 TT-ECU MOD .. best ting is to read that sucker.. I made it up to page 40 before my head blew up there is so much info.. eventually I made it to current and chimed in with my own questions..
ALMOST EVERYTHING is there, all the way down to OBDII Trans code issues with BuffNStuff's OBDII car and Stock Distributor trial and error with HIPSI.. I even found the difference of the OBDI Injectors and lower runners vs. the OBDII Injectors and lower runners..
troubleshooting tips that Ali SC3 has basiclly memorized and tons of questions.. READ IT .. UNDERSTAND IT... THEN READ IT AGAIN!!! LOL took twice for me to catch a lot more then I did the first time
#20
another little update
Had a chance to go to the Junkyard over the weekend and pull two IAT sensors, Grommets, and Connectors out of a couple 98-02 Maxima's
The second sensor, grommet, and connector I got will be used with the stock piping so I can do the TT-ECU mod before boosting and running the IC Piping..
Took my IC piping into work today and mic'd the grommet and drilled the IC Piping to accept it using a uni-bit.. the holding section of the grommet measured out at 19.55 mm (or .7675" ).. I found out that the uni-bit I had shows the 1/2' mark to measures out at 18.87 mm.. taped it @ the 1/2' mark .. drilled it.. used a little 350 grit sand paper to clean up the edges..
and here is how it looks now.
The location of the install is just before the throttle body.. I choose here because I feel it will get the most accurate reading of air temp here just before entering the plenum.
I also choose here due to the fact that there is a harness just below the TB. This will help when it comes time to routing the wires and hiding them. The rolled edge shown will is the portion connecting to the TB.
*QUICK EDIT* - For anyone wondering these sensors and grommets from Nissan only cost $35 together I believe; and that's if you want them brand new... that price surely beats $50 for an AEM that you have to weld a flange on (extra cost) and they have the same .4v -4.5V reference.
Had a chance to go to the Junkyard over the weekend and pull two IAT sensors, Grommets, and Connectors out of a couple 98-02 Maxima's
The second sensor, grommet, and connector I got will be used with the stock piping so I can do the TT-ECU mod before boosting and running the IC Piping..
Took my IC piping into work today and mic'd the grommet and drilled the IC Piping to accept it using a uni-bit.. the holding section of the grommet measured out at 19.55 mm (or .7675" ).. I found out that the uni-bit I had shows the 1/2' mark to measures out at 18.87 mm.. taped it @ the 1/2' mark .. drilled it.. used a little 350 grit sand paper to clean up the edges..
and here is how it looks now.
The location of the install is just before the throttle body.. I choose here because I feel it will get the most accurate reading of air temp here just before entering the plenum.
I also choose here due to the fact that there is a harness just below the TB. This will help when it comes time to routing the wires and hiding them. The rolled edge shown will is the portion connecting to the TB.
*QUICK EDIT* - For anyone wondering these sensors and grommets from Nissan only cost $35 together I believe; and that's if you want them brand new... that price surely beats $50 for an AEM that you have to weld a flange on (extra cost) and they have the same .4v -4.5V reference.
Last edited by Aswilley; 07-14-14 at 07:17 PM.
#21
Lexus Test Driver
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That grommet would work in the intake pipe but I doubt will seal in the intercooler pipe and just create a big boost leak.
For Reference the 550's do work with the stock ecu however it will start rich (10:1) until the engine hits operating temp and ecu starts learning and adjusting accordingly. I ended up installing an apexi safc to pull fuel out at idle.
For Reference the 550's do work with the stock ecu however it will start rich (10:1) until the engine hits operating temp and ecu starts learning and adjusting accordingly. I ended up installing an apexi safc to pull fuel out at idle.
Last edited by HiPSI; 07-14-14 at 07:25 PM.
#22
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Like ^^^ said it will not seal , don't waste you time... weld a bung on the piping and screw the new sensor in there.
Sometimes its not all about the 15$ you will save but the time and hassle it will save you in the long run.
Gl
Sometimes its not all about the 15$ you will save but the time and hassle it will save you in the long run.
Gl
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LEXXIUM (12-18-16)
#23
That grommet would work in the intake pipe but I doubt will seal in the intercooler pipe and just create a big boost leak.
For Reference the 550's do work with the stock ecu however it will start rich (10:1) until the engine hits operating temp and ecu starts learning and adjusting accordingly. I ended up installing an apexi safc to pull fuel out at idle.
For Reference the 550's do work with the stock ecu however it will start rich (10:1) until the engine hits operating temp and ecu starts learning and adjusting accordingly. I ended up installing an apexi safc to pull fuel out at idle.
I did indeed plan on welding one on once I am ready to put the IC piping on.. plus the sensors, grommets, and connectors were free to me so I figured they were just about the same size as that weld on bung just drill it and use these for now .. weld on when ready.
thanks for chinming in guys.. HIPSI I love your build thread man.. I gathered a lot of info there and 99SC42 I have seen tons of your post with again some really good info.. hope you guys enjoy the build
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#27
Yes, stock injectors are 330's if I remember correctly, I have not done a fuel pums as I am leaving it stock for now. If it cannot supply the 440's I have, then I will install an pgraded one imedeatley. I would rather run rich then lean! I think the stock pumps output should be just enough for what I am going for
I cross referenced the values of the factory TT IAT and the 98+ Maxima sensor.. almost all IAT sensors, factory or universal should have the same values .4v - 4.5v refference.. I'm sure some cars have odd-ball ones but it should work.. and like you said "there are like 10 of them at your pick-n-pull" ..they are readily available.
I cross referenced the values of the factory TT IAT and the 98+ Maxima sensor.. almost all IAT sensors, factory or universal should have the same values .4v - 4.5v refference.. I'm sure some cars have odd-ball ones but it should work.. and like you said "there are like 10 of them at your pick-n-pull" ..they are readily available.
#28
Lexus Test Driver
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A fuel pump upgrade is a very simple mod, $150 will get you the best, a Walboro 450lph or Aeromotive 340lph intank pump and then hard wire it in using a relay, I purchased my relay from racetronix for $50 and bypassed the fuel pump ecu. The stock regulator will rise 1:1 and isn't a limitation till past 500whp or so. You could even try finding a slightly used Supra pump which the flow is increased significantly.
#29
Racer
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I cross referenced the values of the factory TT IAT and the 98+ Maxima sensor.. almost all IAT sensors, factory or universal should have the same values .4v - 4.5v refference.. I'm sure some cars have odd-ball ones but it should work.. and like you said "there are like 10 of them at your pick-n-pull" ..they are readily available.
Right on, I also have a list of all the vehicles that use the DS62 igniters and will probably go pull 10-12 of those and sell them for cost here.. Wanna help the community when I can. Anyway, nice build so far!
#30
Lexus Champion
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Just reading your thread now, good progress and like the black interior. were you are the colorado 2014 toyota meet? I was there with my SC and my brother was there with the black supra.
For the IAT yeah they are all very similar. Since you are on the GTE ecu, don't bother even with sticking it in the intercooler piping the stock ecu is not that sensitive to the IAT, it just knows like cold, warming up and hot.
I have stuck mine before the turbo in the intake pipe where you do not have to worry about it sealing, and it works perfect there AFR's are spot on. back in the day on the stock ecu most just used a resistor or left the IAT hanging out in the engine bay, but if you get it in the intake pipe it would be good and that grommet would do the trick then. I would not put the grommet like that on the intercooler pipe, just asking for it to blow off eventually I would think I would defginately weld a bung on it for the intercooler pipe, or if its thick enough you may even get away with drilling and tapping it, and the GM sensors use a threaded fitting on the bottom. I found the GM IAT jams pretty well into one of the larger vacuum nipples on my intake pipe, so its been jammed in there for over a year now.
For the IAT yeah they are all very similar. Since you are on the GTE ecu, don't bother even with sticking it in the intercooler piping the stock ecu is not that sensitive to the IAT, it just knows like cold, warming up and hot.
I have stuck mine before the turbo in the intake pipe where you do not have to worry about it sealing, and it works perfect there AFR's are spot on. back in the day on the stock ecu most just used a resistor or left the IAT hanging out in the engine bay, but if you get it in the intake pipe it would be good and that grommet would do the trick then. I would not put the grommet like that on the intercooler pipe, just asking for it to blow off eventually I would think I would defginately weld a bung on it for the intercooler pipe, or if its thick enough you may even get away with drilling and tapping it, and the GM sensors use a threaded fitting on the bottom. I found the GM IAT jams pretty well into one of the larger vacuum nipples on my intake pipe, so its been jammed in there for over a year now.