Aaron's 97 SC300 NA-T Build
#92
So totally just a question, someone else made a thread about their return line and I thought of this method. How confident do you feel about the fitting not leaking or coming loose? I feel like from the pictures it doesn't seat very well around that hole, unless it's sunken in and I cant see it?
Yeah, there's a right way to do it for sure. A motto I picked up recently is, "If you don't have time to do it right, how will you have time to do it over?" Look through my bodywork build thread and you'll see how I approach my big projects lol.
But enough about me, I'll start an engine build thread when the build consists of more than an oil pan.
When do you imagine you'll have yours up and running?
But enough about me, I'll start an engine build thread when the build consists of more than an oil pan.
When do you imagine you'll have yours up and running?
Man looks like its coming along great, keep up the good work.
moved your electrical post to page 4 as requested, btw you should be able to edit your own posts to do that....
.....Definitely some hardcore gauge placement, try and put your more important ones on the left I notice its hard to look right past the middle of the dash when going fast, the angle will help for sure.
moved your electrical post to page 4 as requested, btw you should be able to edit your own posts to do that....
.....Definitely some hardcore gauge placement, try and put your more important ones on the left I notice its hard to look right past the middle of the dash when going fast, the angle will help for sure.
On another note I finished ripping apart the engine harness tonight and running all the wires for the MAP and IAT sensors. Man what a PITA that was, but DAMN does it look good put back together. PICS TO COME SOON!!!
#93
Okay so as promised, here are the pics an descriptions of all the wiring for the MAP & IAT Sensor
As you can see, opening the wiring harness loom can be quite intimidating lol.. you will have to open it as far as shown to find and re-route the wires needed for the sensors.
there are two blue and white wires that run in the loom, one leads to the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the other to the Air Assist stepper motor.. MAKE SURE YOU FIND AND TAP THE CORRECT BLUE W/ WHITE WIRE. Uses either a volt meter to test continuity or open the loom and trace the wire so you know 100% you have the correct one
Here is a close up of the Mass Air Flow Sensor Connector. If you revert back to my post on Page 4 #55 you will see that three of these wires are going to be tapped for the IAT and MAP signal. You can trace them back in the harness and tap them or do like I did and open the loom and re-route the wires and cut and splice them once they are where you want them.. Alright so, per my remade wiring diagram you will see that the MAP sensors signal wire is the same Blue w/ White wire that is at the mass air flow sensor connector, you will also see the Yellow w/ Green wire and the Brown Wire, these are the other two wires to be used with the IAT sensor.
KEEP IN MIND OUR OBDII CARS HAVE A 12V MASS AIR FLOW POWER REFERENCE ..
YOU WILL NEED TO TAP THE TPS (throttle position sensor) FOR THE CORRECT 5V POWER AND GROUND!!!!
Here is a close up picture of the TPS connector where you can clearly see the Blue w/ Red wire that will be used as the 5V power wire for the MAP sensor. If you look close you can see that I am holding both wires for the MAP and the wire to reconnect to the TPS
Here is a pic of the three wires soldered, and heat shrunk together to complete the power circuit for the MAP Sensor, you can see the MAP Sensor sitting in the background on the upper right of the pic
Here you can see the TPS connector Brown wire that is tapped for the MAP sensor Ground. I did the same type of connection here, soldered, and heat shrunk to complete the ground circuit for the MAP sensor
If you look closely you can see that these wires ran for the IAT sensor are actually the wires used for the mass air flow sensor. I de-pined these wires from the oginal connector at the mass air flow and re-routed them through the harness to where they are now. Cut, soldered, and heat shrunk.
this is approximately where they will wind up when I finally get the IC piping installed, just before the Throttle body.
As you can see, opening the wiring harness loom can be quite intimidating lol.. you will have to open it as far as shown to find and re-route the wires needed for the sensors.
there are two blue and white wires that run in the loom, one leads to the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the other to the Air Assist stepper motor.. MAKE SURE YOU FIND AND TAP THE CORRECT BLUE W/ WHITE WIRE. Uses either a volt meter to test continuity or open the loom and trace the wire so you know 100% you have the correct one
Here is a close up of the Mass Air Flow Sensor Connector. If you revert back to my post on Page 4 #55 you will see that three of these wires are going to be tapped for the IAT and MAP signal. You can trace them back in the harness and tap them or do like I did and open the loom and re-route the wires and cut and splice them once they are where you want them.. Alright so, per my remade wiring diagram you will see that the MAP sensors signal wire is the same Blue w/ White wire that is at the mass air flow sensor connector, you will also see the Yellow w/ Green wire and the Brown Wire, these are the other two wires to be used with the IAT sensor.
KEEP IN MIND OUR OBDII CARS HAVE A 12V MASS AIR FLOW POWER REFERENCE ..
YOU WILL NEED TO TAP THE TPS (throttle position sensor) FOR THE CORRECT 5V POWER AND GROUND!!!!
Here is a close up picture of the TPS connector where you can clearly see the Blue w/ Red wire that will be used as the 5V power wire for the MAP sensor. If you look close you can see that I am holding both wires for the MAP and the wire to reconnect to the TPS
Here is a pic of the three wires soldered, and heat shrunk together to complete the power circuit for the MAP Sensor, you can see the MAP Sensor sitting in the background on the upper right of the pic
Here you can see the TPS connector Brown wire that is tapped for the MAP sensor Ground. I did the same type of connection here, soldered, and heat shrunk to complete the ground circuit for the MAP sensor
If you look closely you can see that these wires ran for the IAT sensor are actually the wires used for the mass air flow sensor. I de-pined these wires from the oginal connector at the mass air flow and re-routed them through the harness to where they are now. Cut, soldered, and heat shrunk.
this is approximately where they will wind up when I finally get the IC piping installed, just before the Throttle body.
#95
Keep in mind I am only going to be running under 11PSI.. I have seen a couple of people running 12PSI and only tapping 350HP so the goal right now is to stay under that.
I have the wastegate spring set to open at 8.75PSI in an attempt to keep it under 350HP so I don't smoke the trans right out the gate lol.. I think it will only be around 325HP like I have it but I wont really know unless I dyno it.
I know I will be on borrowed time with it but as long as I don't gun it off the line or manual shift it I'm sure it will be fine for a little bit.. Also keep in mind that the trans. cooler I am running was made for a 2014 Dodge 3500 Cummins and has it's own cooling fan and temp sensor.. so I wont have to worry about over heating it at all
#97
I can't speak for the treadstone manifold, but I can say the fitment for the CXRacing Manifold and Down Pipe has excellent fitment and clearance, a very well designed kit, I am pretty impressed with it I just say .. I Will do an entire write up on the manifold and turbo install here in a little. Please stay tuned all, and thanks for subscribing.. I am very close to completing this project... For now anyways lol
#98
Alright back to the top again.. finally have a chance to sit down and do a little write up on the progress.. I have a ton of info an pics to post.. gonna break it down into a few post so lets start with the CX Racing Manifold Install and challenges found
To start off this New style Manifold from CX Racing fits impressively well. Only two real hiccups on the install of the manifold itself.
1st when putting the manifold to the cylinder head one of the rear studs near the back needs to modified in order to get the nut tight reference pictures to see how I made it work.
2nd when installing the turbo the one of the rear bolts closets to the firewall needed to be modified but to fit. What I did was use a hacksaw to cut off approximately 6-7 threads and tapped the bolt through the turbo which gave me enough room to screw in into the manifold
so lets get to pictures
Here is the correct manifold for the SC300 offered from CX Racing
Here is a quick glimps of the manifold Installed to the Cylinder Head
Near the rear of the manifold you can see the stud pictured that needed to be modified. The stud was too long and there was no way to tighten it with any tool I had. So I used the same hacksaw and all I did was remove the very tip where the Star point is and from there i was able to get a box end 14mm on it an tighten it. If the stud ever needs to be removed you can always use a stud extractor and it should come right out.
To start off this New style Manifold from CX Racing fits impressively well. Only two real hiccups on the install of the manifold itself.
1st when putting the manifold to the cylinder head one of the rear studs near the back needs to modified in order to get the nut tight reference pictures to see how I made it work.
2nd when installing the turbo the one of the rear bolts closets to the firewall needed to be modified but to fit. What I did was use a hacksaw to cut off approximately 6-7 threads and tapped the bolt through the turbo which gave me enough room to screw in into the manifold
so lets get to pictures
Here is the correct manifold for the SC300 offered from CX Racing
Here is a quick glimps of the manifold Installed to the Cylinder Head
Near the rear of the manifold you can see the stud pictured that needed to be modified. The stud was too long and there was no way to tighten it with any tool I had. So I used the same hacksaw and all I did was remove the very tip where the Star point is and from there i was able to get a box end 14mm on it an tighten it. If the stud ever needs to be removed you can always use a stud extractor and it should come right out.
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Turbostar (05-22-21)
#100
Man at first I thought this was gonna be a typical low budget build with a bunch of make shift parts. I'm impressed with the quality of parts and attention to detail that is used. Keep at it I can't wait to see it roll for the first time.
#101
Lead Lap
iTrader: (4)
Man nice job on the write up. I wish I'd seen this before. I just went through and figured all this out myself but didn't document it near as well. Just fired mine up yesterday for the first time. I'm non emissions too so went aristo until I go proefi. So much simpler. Loving the detail work you're doing too cleaning it all up. Be a sharp looking engine bay anyone would be proud of.
#102
Well guys, unfotunanly I can only post from my phone right now cause my laptop took a ish on me. I am dropping it off at the computer repair shop today and hopfully I get it back soon so I can keep bringing you guys goodies. I should have her started today or tomorrow, as you know, life gets in the way of projects sometimes so it was on hold for another week. See you guys soon and stay tuned .. Spoiler **** Videos to come soon 😁
Last edited by Aswilley; 05-26-15 at 10:51 PM.
#104
Well everyone.. Comptuer broken or not, I got the Lexus started tonight. No lies he sounds NASTY!! Totally different, got base timing set at 8° and man does it sound healthy.. I can't wait to get my computer back and start posting all of this stuff lol.. Im super excited to post the gauge cluster write-up
#105
Racer
iTrader: (7)
Well everyone.. Comptuer broken or not, I got the Lexus started tonight. No lies he sounds NASTY!! Totally different, got base timing set at 8° and man does it sound healthy.. I can't wait to get my computer back and start posting all of this stuff lol.. Im super excited to post the gauge cluster write-up