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it will speed cut when the speed signal to the ecu is over 110-120mph. when you are manual I think you can disconnect that wire to disable speed cut or they also make this circuit that cuts the speed signal to the ecu in half, both work I think.
But If you are auto I think the ecu needs that wire to shift so it has to stay connected.
This is good to know Ali SC3! I will look further into wiring and logic to see what I can find. I know currently the only fix for the speed cut is to find a JDM MINES Soarer ECU.. They are out there, just very very few of them.. I believe you need 550cc Injectors to run it though. The last one I found was 7 months ago on Ebay for $750 + Shipping and it was in Australia :-/ .. I almost did it to be honest now I am kinda sad I didn't lol.
Does the ECU still have two shift tables for when you put ECT to PWR or NORM?
Also, would you be able to read the diagnostic code for the flashing O/D OFF light please?
Your answer is yes, your ETC/PWR switch will still work normally, but keep in mind this switch only sends a signal the TCM side of your Control Unit to raise the shift points to a higher RPM. It does nothing else such as fuel and timing to my knowledge.
So with that in mind when I come under boost the ECM/TCM already struggles to keep up so I keep mine in Eco mode cause it will occasionally still tap the limiter at times.. If I have mine in PWR mode, it fuel cuts and lags shifting to the next gear under heavy acceleration a lot more then just leaving it alone.
I am 100% sure the flashing O/D light is from the TCC Lockup function. That and the fact that the TT-Auto has two extra solenoids which are missing on our trans lol.
I have yet to find a way to scan codes because I am in uncharted territory running an OBDI ECU on an OBDII Platform car. If someone wants to post the procedure to check on OBDI cars I will try it and see if it flashes codes.
So guys over last weekend I did a little clean up of the SC.
On the original set up I used the crappy CXRacing T4 Turbo manifold Gasket. Well, because I installed an EGT gauge in the car, I noticed when the car is FULLY warmed up (as in driven for over 20 miles) the Exhaust temps sit right around 770-850℉
So on a small trip of about 120 miles, I got a little aggressive and decide to rail on it a little to see how hot the turbo actually gets and what its efficiency rang really is. Turns out that 1,211℉ is my turbo's max temp.. No matter how hard a beat on it, that is as hot as it gets. Upon this discovery I noticed i started to hear an exhaust leak and had an unusual amount of turbo lag even on the highway.. So off to work I went.
I found the issue.. When it got that hot, I wound up blowing out one entire side of the manifold gasket.
So naturally like most of us here .. FORCED UPGRADE!!!
Picked up a set on Inconell Studs and Inconell Locking Nuts from Full Race. They are 10x1.5 on the manifold side (So they happen to thread right into my CXRacing manifold) and 10x1.25 on the turbo side. They also came with anti-vibration dual lock washers.
Snagged an Inconell T4 (undivided) gasket from a local speed shop and slapped it all together.
Cleaned up the manifold and turbo by acid washing them at work, and my did they come out looking good
A true enthusiast work bench
Got it all together, and I even put on a new dizzy cap while I was there.
Just a heads up usually when you blow your gasket like that there is some level or warping present.. Before starting it back up and going shredding I would looking into that first.
Just a heads up usually when you blow your gasket like that there is some level or warping present.. Before starting it back up and going shredding I would looking into that first.
I put a straight edge across the turbo and manifold. Lets face it, the CXRacing manifold isn't exactly perfect or great quality to start with lol. However the turbo was fine, and I did mill down the manifold to true (probably should have checked before everything went together in the first pace).
Never the less it is fixed, and back together. Now a turbo blanket is definitely in the mix! It did get hot enough to melted my 02 sensor connector a little, and I had to improvise to get it apart again.
Alright back to the top again.. finally have a chance to sit down and do a little write up on the progress.. I have a ton of info an pics to post.. gonna break it down into a few post so lets start with the CX Racing Manifold Install and challenges found
To start off this New style Manifold from CX Racing fits impressively well. Only two real hiccups on the install of the manifold itself.
1st when putting the manifold to the cylinder head one of the rear studs near the back needs to modified in order to get the nut tight reference pictures to see how I made it work.
2nd when installing the turbo the one of the rear bolts closets to the firewall needed to be modified but to fit. What I did was use a hacksaw to cut off approximately 6-7 threads and tapped the bolt through the turbo which gave me enough room to screw in into the manifold
so lets get to pictures
Do you see any reasonable way to recirculate the bov with it mounted that far forward?
Originally Posted by Aswilley
I put a straight edge across the turbo and manifold. Lets face it, the CXRacing manifold isn't exactly perfect or great quality to start with lol. However the turbo was fine, and I did mill down the manifold to true (probably should have checked before everything went together in the first pace).
What would you consider to be deficient in the build quality?
Do you happen to have a picture on how you mocked up your intercooler piping? Cant figure it out lol. Been trying to google but cant seem to find any pics on the one sided intercooler.
Do you happen to have a picture on how you mocked up your intercooler piping? Cant figure it out lol. Been trying to google but cant seem to find any pics on the one sided intercooler.
This! and curious how your Wastegate dump is setup, open?
Do you happen to have a picture on how you mocked up your intercooler piping? Cant figure it out lol. Been trying to google but cant seem to find any pics on the one sided intercooler.
CunamaySC3, I do have the pics in my archive of pictures lol. Sorry I haven't been active for a little while to answer back, I moved twice in 2017 so getting on here wasn't really a priority lol. I'll see if I can dig em up an post them here. I remember having to buy a 3" hole-saw to go through the fender area under the air box. It definitely took me a day or two to figure out as well. Super tight and a really nice fit once all together tho.
Originally Posted by LexIS007
Awesome build! NA-T power!
Thanx LexIS007! It isn't finished yet. I just got it up on 4 stands again to start trucking away on the LS400 BBK and W58 Swap. I have two CD009's sitting at the house too but don't have the 4G:s everyone wants to get the kit. I have a 93 5MT sitting around so that's the band-aid for now. I'm just getting that haghered, tired, beat up auto out finally so I can actually drive it again. Smoked the clutch packs finally at 16 psi.
Originally Posted by nsjuice
This! and curious how your Wastegate dump is setup, open?
Yes, as much as I wanted it in the begining, I wish it was recirculated now. The CXRacing manifold is still holding up good, but the way the wastegate dumps makes it near impossible to recirculate. I'll see if I can throw up some pics of that location too. It exists in front of the steering rack, pointing forward and downward with a nice angled cut.
Last edited by Aswilley; 05-03-18 at 09:58 AM.
Reason: Spelling
Finally got the SC up on 4 stands the other day to finish sanding and painting the LS400 BBK for the SC, waiting for the TRD decals to come for the fronts so I can finish them and slap em on. Planning on runing a set of SC400 rear claiper I got sitting around. I also have the StopTech SS lines, & R1 drilled and slotted rotors all around! I'm excited to have this bad boy stop like it should.
Do you see any reasonable way to recirculate the bov with it mounted that far forward?
^^ I never intended to recirculate the BOV on my piping. If you wanted to you could always do it by running it under the IC piping and back to the 4" intake on the compressor housing. I had a custom one made for my GVR4 when I had it cause I liked how quiet the Synchronic Synaps BOV sounded recirced. On the SC I plan on adding an additional HKS SSQV-4 though. I like the idea, functionality, aesthetics, and sound of a double SSQV set up on the 2J
What would you consider to be deficient in the build quality?
I wouldn't say the CX Racing Manifold I have is deficent at all, the materials used are obviously quality for streetability and longevity so far. I've had my EGT's at 1230°F for a while when ai went on a super car cruise last summer and no leaking, nonl broken welds, no warping, or gasket blow outs. Only thing to consider IMO is checking the "trueness" on the head and manifold before slapping it all together.
Do you happen to have a picture on how you mocked up your intercooler piping? Cant figure it out lol. Been trying to google but cant seem to find any pics on the one sided intercooler.
Originally Posted by nsjuice
This! and curious how your Wastegate dump is setup, open?
01-11-16, 11:30 AM
