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it was seriously a great mod, the only thing stopping me from doing it right now is all that fresh toyota red coolant I have in the system Don't want to go get more right now lol.
So totally just a question, someone else made a thread about their return line and I thought of this method. How confident do you feel about the fitting not leaking or coming loose? I feel like from the pictures it doesn't seat very well around that hole, unless it's sunken in and I cant see it?
Kris9884, I am 100% confident that my oil drain will not leak. The bung does sit in the opening quite a bit further then the pictures show. Plus Ali SC3 is also absolutely correct abut the bung, when using a NPT style fitting the threads are tapered meaning they lock together as you tighten them creating a perfect seal. I only added the liquid teflon because it creates a second gasket like sealer around the threads as they lock together. I did this because I didn't want any Crank Case Blow-By to cause a leak either.
Originally Posted by Asha'man
Yeah, there's a right way to do it for sure. A motto I picked up recently is, "If you don't have time to do it right, how will you have time to do it over?" Look through my bodywork build thread and you'll see how I approach my big projects lol.
But enough about me, I'll start an engine build thread when the build consists of more than an oil pan.
When do you imagine you'll have yours up and running?
Asha'man I should have it running by Wednesday the 13th at the latest
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
Man looks like its coming along great, keep up the good work.
moved your electrical post to page 4 as requested, btw you should be able to edit your own posts to do that....
.....Definitely some hardcore gauge placement, try and put your more important ones on the left I notice its hard to look right past the middle of the dash when going fast, the angle will help for sure.
Thanks for the move Ali, I tried to move it myself but my computer was having major issues for some reason lol. You totally read my mind when I was mocking the pods up, I am going to be running the A/F-R closest to the driver, then Boost, then Trans. Temp, then EGT. I finally finished making the harness to run all the gauge wires together so I will be doing that over the next few days. Also put a little flair on the pods to help accent them nicely, I will post pics of that once I test them.
Originally Posted by 8052JZ
Glad the T stat housing flip is going around! Works great and sense I've done it haven't had a single issue! Good luck on the build!
8052JZ, you have no idea the amount of inspiration I got when reading you build thread. Your skills were mind blowing at one point. I would love to have the dual fuel pump setup you made for your car, and the T-stat fllip mod.. BRILLIANT !! lol
On another note I finished ripping apart the engine harness tonight and running all the wires for the MAP and IAT sensors. Man what a PITA that was, but DAMN does it look good put back together. PICS TO COME SOON!!!
Okay so as promised, here are the pics an descriptions of all the wiring for the MAP & IAT Sensor
As you can see, opening the wiring harness loom can be quite intimidating lol.. you will have to open it as far as shown to find and re-route the wires needed for the sensors.
there are two blue and white wires that run in the loom, one leads to the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the other to the Air Assist stepper motor.. MAKE SURE YOU FIND AND TAP THE CORRECT BLUE W/ WHITE WIRE. Uses either a volt meter to test continuity or open the loom and trace the wire so you know 100% you have the correct one
Here is a close up of the Mass Air Flow Sensor Connector. If you revert back to my post on Page 4 #55 you will see that three of these wires are going to be tapped for the IAT and MAP signal. You can trace them back in the harness and tap them or do like I did and open the loom and re-route the wires and cut and splice them once they are where you want them.. Alright so, per my remade wiring diagram you will see that the MAP sensors signal wire is the same Blue w/ White wire that is at the mass air flow sensor connector, you will also see the Yellow w/ Green wire and the Brown Wire, these are the other two wires to be used with the IAT sensor.
KEEP IN MIND OUR OBDII CARS HAVE A 12V MASS AIR FLOW POWER REFERENCE ..
YOU WILL NEED TO TAP THE TPS (throttle position sensor) FOR THE CORRECT 5V POWER AND GROUND!!!!
Here is a close up picture of the TPS connector where you can clearly see the Blue w/ Red wire that will be used as the 5V power wire for the MAP sensor. If you look close you can see that I am holding both wires for the MAP and the wire to reconnect to the TPS
Here is a pic of the three wires soldered, and heat shrunk together to complete the power circuit for the MAP Sensor, you can see the MAP Sensor sitting in the background on the upper right of the pic
Here you can see the TPS connector Brown wire that is tapped for the MAP sensor Ground. I did the same type of connection here, soldered, and heat shrunk to complete the ground circuit for the MAP sensor
If you look closely you can see that these wires ran for the IAT sensor are actually the wires used for the mass air flow sensor. I de-pined these wires from the oginal connector at the mass air flow and re-routed them through the harness to where they are now. Cut, soldered, and heat shrunk.
this is approximately where they will wind up when I finally get the IC piping installed, just before the Throttle body.
will you be using the auto transmission first and see if it holds? or swapping to r154.
I will be keeping the stock auto for now. Probably until next year or a little longer when I can afford to buy all the swap stuff for an R154
Keep in mind I am only going to be running under 11PSI.. I have seen a couple of people running 12PSI and only tapping 350HP so the goal right now is to stay under that.
I have the wastegate spring set to open at 8.75PSI in an attempt to keep it under 350HP so I don't smoke the trans right out the gate lol.. I think it will only be around 325HP like I have it but I wont really know unless I dyno it.
I know I will be on borrowed time with it but as long as I don't gun it off the line or manual shift it I'm sure it will be fine for a little bit.. Also keep in mind that the trans. cooler I am running was made for a 2014 Dodge 3500 Cummins and has it's own cooling fan and temp sensor.. so I wont have to worry about over heating it at all
cant wait to see pics on the mounted manifold and turbo.
Im stuck between the treastone log style manifold or the CXracing one with the V-band flange manifold. Both around $500-$600 shipped to my door.
Well I do have a ton of pics to upload as I just finished the Intercooler piping last night, but don't think I will get to post again until this weekend lol.
I can't speak for the treadstone manifold, but I can say the fitment for the CXRacing Manifold and Down Pipe has excellent fitment and clearance, a very well designed kit, I am pretty impressed with it I just say .. I Will do an entire write up on the manifold and turbo install here in a little. Please stay tuned all, and thanks for subscribing.. I am very close to completing this project... For now anyways lol
Alright back to the top again.. finally have a chance to sit down and do a little write up on the progress.. I have a ton of info an pics to post.. gonna break it down into a few post so lets start with the CX Racing Manifold Install and challenges found
To start off this New style Manifold from CX Racing fits impressively well. Only two real hiccups on the install of the manifold itself.
1st when putting the manifold to the cylinder head one of the rear studs near the back needs to modified in order to get the nut tight reference pictures to see how I made it work.
2nd when installing the turbo the one of the rear bolts closets to the firewall needed to be modified but to fit. What I did was use a hacksaw to cut off approximately 6-7 threads and tapped the bolt through the turbo which gave me enough room to screw in into the manifold
so lets get to pictures
Here is the correct manifold for the SC300 offered from CX Racing
Here is a quick glimps of the manifold Installed to the Cylinder Head
Near the rear of the manifold you can see the stud pictured that needed to be modified. The stud was too long and there was no way to tighten it with any tool I had. So I used the same hacksaw and all I did was remove the very tip where the Star point is and from there i was able to get a box end 14mm on it an tighten it. If the stud ever needs to be removed you can always use a stud extractor and it should come right out.
Man at first I thought this was gonna be a typical low budget build with a bunch of make shift parts. I'm impressed with the quality of parts and attention to detail that is used. Keep at it I can't wait to see it roll for the first time.
Man nice job on the write up. I wish I'd seen this before. I just went through and figured all this out myself but didn't document it near as well. Just fired mine up yesterday for the first time. I'm non emissions too so went aristo until I go proefi. So much simpler. Loving the detail work you're doing too cleaning it all up. Be a sharp looking engine bay anyone would be proud of.
Well guys, unfotunanly I can only post from my phone right now cause my laptop took a ish on me. I am dropping it off at the computer repair shop today and hopfully I get it back soon so I can keep bringing you guys goodies. I should have her started today or tomorrow, as you know, life gets in the way of projects sometimes so it was on hold for another week. See you guys soon and stay tuned .. Spoiler **** Videos to come soon 😁
Sweet. Sucks to hear about your computer. I like the CX Racing manifold over the BoostLogic. I may go with them for my 2J. I'm gonna use them for my RB,so might as well.
Well everyone.. Comptuer broken or not, I got the Lexus started tonight. No lies he sounds NASTY!! Totally different, got base timing set at 8° and man does it sound healthy.. I can't wait to get my computer back and start posting all of this stuff lol.. Im super excited to post the gauge cluster write-up
Well everyone.. Comptuer broken or not, I got the Lexus started tonight. No lies he sounds NASTY!! Totally different, got base timing set at 8° and man does it sound healthy.. I can't wait to get my computer back and start posting all of this stuff lol.. Im super excited to post the gauge cluster write-up
Ohh so awesome!! I've been at the edge of my seat for this build for quite awhile, as were you I'm sure lol.. How is boost???? Tranny shifting smoothly and the tunnel staying cool with your cooler in place?
05-06-15, 11:04 PM
