hcharlesc3 GS300 Build
06-25-14, 01:32 AM
#37
How much did you drop the front/rear?
Can you take a new picture that shows how the rear tires sit now when lowered?
Preferably from the same angle that you had in the previous picture, thanks!
Edit: Oh and did you roll/pull the fenders?
Can you take a new picture that shows how the rear tires sit now when lowered?
Preferably from the same angle that you had in the previous picture, thanks!
Edit: Oh and did you roll/pull the fenders?
06-25-14, 06:34 AM
#40
Lol lower? .... I just left tire Kingdom attempting to get an alignment..... The said everything is out of spec except my rear toe. I'm thinking of going with some ISF wheels.That way I could at least be in spec. I have it on the stiffest setting and it's pretty harsh... But I'm not rubbing at all. I'm going to adjust them halfway and see how it rides
Last edited by hcharlesc3; 06-25-14 at 06:39 AM.
06-25-14, 07:28 AM
#42
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Did they actually attempt to align your car or only tell you how out of whack it was? One more thing...how do you figure changing wheels will help your alignment? If anything, raise your car back up or buy adjustable suspension arms; I'm opting for the latter 
06-25-14, 08:06 AM
#43
The corrected what they could. Im going to post a pic of the print out they gave me. I would love to keep the wheels and get everything corrected. If i changed the wheels to a less aggressive offset i would have more room to make adjustments.
06-25-14, 10:11 AM
#44
The only thing aggressive wheels affect is how much extra camber you have to run to get the wheels to clear the fender.
Caster isn't adjustable, so if that's out of spec, you need new bushings in the #2 lower control arms.
Camber is probably out of spec. If you run less aggressive wheels (ISF), you can adjust the camber bolt to max positive but it still doesn't mean you be in spec because it's lowered. Once you lower a couple inches you probably need a camber correction kit if you want it in the factory range.
As long as your toe is set to dead zero, camber really won't kill your tires quickly. When I had weak wheels (pictured), I want to say I was around -1.8 or 2 in the front and -2.1 or 2.2 in the rear max positive.
Caster isn't adjustable, so if that's out of spec, you need new bushings in the #2 lower control arms.
Camber is probably out of spec. If you run less aggressive wheels (ISF), you can adjust the camber bolt to max positive but it still doesn't mean you be in spec because it's lowered. Once you lower a couple inches you probably need a camber correction kit if you want it in the factory range.
As long as your toe is set to dead zero, camber really won't kill your tires quickly. When I had weak wheels (pictured), I want to say I was around -1.8 or 2 in the front and -2.1 or 2.2 in the rear max positive.
