GS in my pants Build Thread
#31
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I'm really hoping it is not the head gasket. Hoping it's just the thermostat or something small like that. Lol. I'll check all the contacts and stuff when I get a chance. Hurt my back playing basketball the other day. Sucks, been down since last Saturday.
#32
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So was able to take the car to a friend of mine who works at a Lexus dealership here in Sacramento. While after inspection we have determined that we do not know. Lol.
There does not seem to be any type of vacuum from the EGR or anything. Car stinks like crazy.
It is also running very lean so we are going to try and set the timing correctly and move some other things around and see if that helps.
Last but I am sure not least is that he thinks the ECU was replaced with one from a California model GS. My car is a Federal car. So I guess my question would be, are the ECU's different? Could anybody chime in?
Thanks
There does not seem to be any type of vacuum from the EGR or anything. Car stinks like crazy.
It is also running very lean so we are going to try and set the timing correctly and move some other things around and see if that helps.
Last but I am sure not least is that he thinks the ECU was replaced with one from a California model GS. My car is a Federal car. So I guess my question would be, are the ECU's different? Could anybody chime in?
Thanks
#33
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So we believe we found the issue with the car. My car is a federal car, not california. The ECU's are different. I have a California ECU in my car. So now I am on the lookout for a 49 state ECU part number 89661-30691. Hopefully that is the issue...
#36
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Been doing lots of work on the car lately. Been having over heating issues like crazy. Replaced the thermostat and radiator cap hoping for the best with it being little issues but I was wrong. Still was overheating so I did the unthinkable! Changed out my waterpump. While I was in there I put in a new timing belt also.
So first things first, had to remove the fan and fan shroud. Removing the 4 bolts on the fan was not difficult at all. The fan shroud had to be removed by the 2 bolts on the upper part of the radiator and one bolt on the bottom on the drivers side. Then disconnect the plug for the electric fans. Then it slides right out.
After that then everything just became a blur, I have never done anything like this before because I come from the world of rotaries. Haha. So I will just post pics, with a little commentary!
To break the bolt loose for the crank I put a breaker bar on the bolt and locked it in place on the car, it was under the driver side and started the car for a split second. Just to jump it and it worked like a charm! Then in the pic you need the pulley puller to remove the pulley.
Then I was able to get to the timing belt cover and that was removed by the 3 bolts, left, right and center. I had to get to the one on the right by moving the power steering pump a bit. Not remove it just loosen the 2 bolts and move the PS pump to get to the bolt. The center bolt is a allen style bolt, at least on mine it is.
Next was to loosen the tensioner to get the timing belt off. Once that was done by the two bolts underneath the tensioner. Then after that I removed the tensioner using a 10mm hex socket.
So now with everything pretty much in the open I can get to the waterpump. After removing all the hundred bolts I was able to take it off.
And the final picture with the waterpump back on! Woohoo! Success! Of course there are more steps than what I just showed so do not assume you can just do these steps for changing the waterpump and timing belt. I definitely did a lot of research and would hope somebody looking at this thread would do the same.
So first things first, had to remove the fan and fan shroud. Removing the 4 bolts on the fan was not difficult at all. The fan shroud had to be removed by the 2 bolts on the upper part of the radiator and one bolt on the bottom on the drivers side. Then disconnect the plug for the electric fans. Then it slides right out.
After that then everything just became a blur, I have never done anything like this before because I come from the world of rotaries. Haha. So I will just post pics, with a little commentary!
To break the bolt loose for the crank I put a breaker bar on the bolt and locked it in place on the car, it was under the driver side and started the car for a split second. Just to jump it and it worked like a charm! Then in the pic you need the pulley puller to remove the pulley.
Then I was able to get to the timing belt cover and that was removed by the 3 bolts, left, right and center. I had to get to the one on the right by moving the power steering pump a bit. Not remove it just loosen the 2 bolts and move the PS pump to get to the bolt. The center bolt is a allen style bolt, at least on mine it is.
Next was to loosen the tensioner to get the timing belt off. Once that was done by the two bolts underneath the tensioner. Then after that I removed the tensioner using a 10mm hex socket.
So now with everything pretty much in the open I can get to the waterpump. After removing all the hundred bolts I was able to take it off.
And the final picture with the waterpump back on! Woohoo! Success! Of course there are more steps than what I just showed so do not assume you can just do these steps for changing the waterpump and timing belt. I definitely did a lot of research and would hope somebody looking at this thread would do the same.
#37
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Phew, now that I am caught up I can post the final verdict. I am pretty sure that the head gasket is blown. Cannot get the temp to stay down. I will take it for one more test drive tomorrow to see if the car is good or if a tear down will be needed.
If I do need to replace the head gasket does anybody have a place that they would recommend for parts?? Let me know please. Thanks!
If I do need to replace the head gasket does anybody have a place that they would recommend for parts?? Let me know please. Thanks!
#38
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I like to get toyota parts. Curt Elmhurst on Supraforums can hook you up with the discount he gives members, and ship you all those parts.
#40
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Been a while since I have been on here, only updates are that I have confirmed that the headgasket is blown with the block test. Now time to either scrap it or rebuild it. Trying to get a sense of how expensive of a rebuild it would be if I did the work myself. So just parts that I would need and then I will find out about the head being taken to a machine shop. Anybody with input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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