First foray into LexusWorld, UCF21 build
06-16-14, 07:02 AM
#49
Im not sure if this is already mentioned (I mainly looked at OP post and pics 
) but the coils you got mustve been the regular BC coilovers. Youre supposed to get the BC "Extreme Low" coilovers. To make it even better, you can use the UCF10 BC "Extreme Low" coilovers for your UCF20 and it will be even lower !!
Nice car btw. Looking for more progress
) but the coils you got mustve been the regular BC coilovers. Youre supposed to get the BC "Extreme Low" coilovers. To make it even better, you can use the UCF10 BC "Extreme Low" coilovers for your UCF20 and it will be even lower !!Nice car btw. Looking for more progress
06-16-14, 09:26 AM
#50
Im not sure if this is already mentioned (I mainly looked at OP post and pics ) but the coils you got mustve been the regular BC coilovers. Youre supposed to get the BC "Extreme Low" coilovers. To make it even better, you can use the UCF10 BC "Extreme Low" coilovers for your UCF20 and it will be even lower !!
Nice car btw. Looking for more progress
) but the coils you got mustve been the regular BC coilovers. Youre supposed to get the BC "Extreme Low" coilovers. To make it even better, you can use the UCF10 BC "Extreme Low" coilovers for your UCF20 and it will be even lower !!Nice car btw. Looking for more progress
07-17-14, 08:27 AM
#51
No real updates besides changing out all the interior lights to LED. Also this happened, popped my first bead
Didn't really know what caused it until I got a new tire on there, turns out my right rear is losing about 15lbs of air a week. Not sure if its the valve stem or the wheel needs to be rebuilt, always something right? For now I just check it every couple days and top it off.
I also ordered a new set of T-demand RCAs from Central Pine, should be here next week from Japan. Hoping to get -6.5 up front to match the rear
Didn't really know what caused it until I got a new tire on there, turns out my right rear is losing about 15lbs of air a week. Not sure if its the valve stem or the wheel needs to be rebuilt, always something right? For now I just check it every couple days and top it off.
I also ordered a new set of T-demand RCAs from Central Pine, should be here next week from Japan. Hoping to get -6.5 up front to match the rear
07-17-14, 05:14 PM
#53
sorry to hear about the tire debeading. that is a result of loss in air pressure for sure. i hate when that happens and with a new tire too. fix that leak!
nice RCAs! keep in mind RCAs bring OUT the wheel to add camber, roughly 5-7mm at the top of your wheel/tire. so if you were close to your front fenders now, it will be even closer with the RCAs on. i found out the hard way. more info and pics explaining this in my studio RCA thread here.
nice RCAs! keep in mind RCAs bring OUT the wheel to add camber, roughly 5-7mm at the top of your wheel/tire. so if you were close to your front fenders now, it will be even closer with the RCAs on. i found out the hard way. more info and pics explaining this in my studio RCA thread here.
07-18-14, 11:46 AM
#54
sorry to hear about the tire debeading. that is a result of loss in air pressure for sure. i hate when that happens and with a new tire too. fix that leak!
nice RCAs! keep in mind RCAs bring OUT the wheel to add camber, roughly 5-7mm at the top of your wheel/tire. so if you were close to your front fenders now, it will be even closer with the RCAs on. i found out the hard way. more info and pics explaining this in my studio RCA thread here.
nice RCAs! keep in mind RCAs bring OUT the wheel to add camber, roughly 5-7mm at the top of your wheel/tire. so if you were close to your front fenders now, it will be even closer with the RCAs on. i found out the hard way. more info and pics explaining this in my studio RCA thread here.
Interesting about the RCA bringing out the top. I'd assume since it added horiz length at the bottom that the top outside corner would stay and pivot vs when you change the camber with plates at the top how the bottom corner would pivot and the top would move in.
When I read about the added track width I thought they were meaning how much the bottom of the wheel would move out compared to stock, dang my tires are pretty much kissing the fender as it is....
08-30-14, 09:55 AM
#55
Sorry for the lack of updates, ended up getting a new job so I've been busy with that BUT I've done a bunch to the car aswell in the meantime 
Biggest thing I did was order some T-Demand NRCAs so I can get more camber up front.
This install ended taking way longer than I anticipated, my tie rods were shot so I went ahead and replaced those. Also to get the tie rod off you have to take the caliper off and I've had a set of rotors and pads sitting since I bought the car a year ago soooo I replaced all that aswell.
Taking Timmy's lead I also ordered some new lower balljoints and with the T-demands you need to grind out a portion of the balljoint to clear the hardware.
Below is the rig I setup to get this accomplished, before I started I scribed out where the material needed to be taken out and put tape around it to keep track whilst gettin my grind on
Progress pic, you can see I went from both directions. When I got most of the material out of the way I used the grinder in a sweeping fashion to clean it up and make it smooth
After this pic I grabbed a can of the rubber undercoat I had leftover from cutting my towers and sprayed it on there to protect the metal.
Install of the NRCAs was a little tricky, the Beck/Arnley balljoints I bought were a super tight fit with the T-Demands. So much so that to get them on there I had to grind some of the material away from the portion sticking out of the balljoing that aligns it with the knuckle. I also had to be careful screwing them in since it was so tight, if I didn't do it exactly evenly it would bind. The stock LBJs fit fine with no issue so I'm not sure why the tolerance on the aftermarket ones was so off.
Attachment 496334
Raised the car up to approimately where it was prior to install since the NRCAs lowered the car 30mm and had the tire sitting on the fender because of the increased track width.
Ordered some 215/40s and got them installed the next weekend, this allowed me to clear the fenders and lower it some more in the front. I also got the windows tinted, went 70% on the front windshield and put a second layer on the existing legal tint since it was still in good condition. Its probably sitting around ~10% which is what I was hoping to get, needless to say its pretty dark.
Got an alignment this morning and they were able to get it to -6 up front!! I was so happy with that since my rears are at -6.5, I finally have some decent camber and my car doesn't look like its takin a **** goin down the road anymore
Finishing up my sub install over the weekend (nothin fancy). Eventually I'll get someone to take some half decent pics of my car and I also still have my roof spoiler I need to get painted.....
Biggest thing I did was order some T-Demand NRCAs so I can get more camber up front.
This install ended taking way longer than I anticipated, my tie rods were shot so I went ahead and replaced those. Also to get the tie rod off you have to take the caliper off and I've had a set of rotors and pads sitting since I bought the car a year ago soooo I replaced all that aswell.
Taking Timmy's lead I also ordered some new lower balljoints and with the T-demands you need to grind out a portion of the balljoint to clear the hardware.
Below is the rig I setup to get this accomplished, before I started I scribed out where the material needed to be taken out and put tape around it to keep track whilst gettin my grind on
Progress pic, you can see I went from both directions. When I got most of the material out of the way I used the grinder in a sweeping fashion to clean it up and make it smooth
After this pic I grabbed a can of the rubber undercoat I had leftover from cutting my towers and sprayed it on there to protect the metal.
Install of the NRCAs was a little tricky, the Beck/Arnley balljoints I bought were a super tight fit with the T-Demands. So much so that to get them on there I had to grind some of the material away from the portion sticking out of the balljoing that aligns it with the knuckle. I also had to be careful screwing them in since it was so tight, if I didn't do it exactly evenly it would bind. The stock LBJs fit fine with no issue so I'm not sure why the tolerance on the aftermarket ones was so off.
Attachment 496334
Raised the car up to approimately where it was prior to install since the NRCAs lowered the car 30mm and had the tire sitting on the fender because of the increased track width.
Ordered some 215/40s and got them installed the next weekend, this allowed me to clear the fenders and lower it some more in the front. I also got the windows tinted, went 70% on the front windshield and put a second layer on the existing legal tint since it was still in good condition. Its probably sitting around ~10% which is what I was hoping to get, needless to say its pretty dark.
Got an alignment this morning and they were able to get it to -6 up front!! I was so happy with that since my rears are at -6.5, I finally have some decent camber and my car doesn't look like its takin a **** goin down the road anymore
Finishing up my sub install over the weekend (nothin fancy). Eventually I'll get someone to take some half decent pics of my car and I also still have my roof spoiler I need to get painted.....
Last edited by TMAdash1; 08-30-14 at 10:45 AM.
09-02-14, 05:49 PM
#56
looks good, i ran into small clearance problems with balljoints too but i ran OEM and didn't have to grind anything. that is also due to studio designed the hardware to sit flush inside the NRCA whereas your set sits outside.
aftermarket tolerances are off, as you experienced with the alignment sleeves but it all looks worth it man!
aftermarket tolerances are off, as you experienced with the alignment sleeves but it all looks worth it man!
