The Albatross Build Thread
03-23-14, 07:37 AM
#1
The Albatross Build Thread
My plans are pretty simple. I want the car to go fast (10rwhp per lb is plenty for me., stop fast, handle well, and be comfortable for daily driving. This isn't a 700hp on pump gas car, I'm sticking to a nice GT cruiser and occasional track day car.
Project Plan Phases:
1. Fix all the broken and leaking stuff (Complete)
- all new power steering stuff (rack, pump, bushings)
- XERD header and O2 sim to replace dead stock manifold
- new alternator
- new aluminum radiator and various o rings
- rebuilt starter
- restored (mostly) interior
- proper suspension (eibach, stock supra struts, and spacers to line things up)
- rebuilt instrument cluster
2. Supra TT brakes & SS lines (SS lines done, waiting on needing new brakes to get supra calipers)
3. LS swap with T56
4. LSD
5. paint and wheels
Here's how she came:
Phase 1: Making the wrong stuff right
1. Suspension is too stiff for DD use.
Solution:
a. traded megan racing coilovers for Supra struts and Supra Eibach springs
note: the front is still too low for my taste but I can live with less spring travel and some minor rubbing if it gives me a better ride 99% of the time [for free]
b. did the uneven suspension fix to level the car out.
c. supra struts/eibach springs didn't have enough travel in front so I added 1/4" billet spacers to the struts. This gave me enough room to have proper travel which means the car handles better because the tires are tucked anymore. I added 1/8" kydex spacers to the rear to give it another quarter inch of lift.
note: adding spacers will always result in about double the lift of whatever spacing is used due to the angle of the strut pushing on the control arm. a little spacer goes a long way.
2. suspension clunks and inconsistency
Solution:
a. installed Prothane bushings in rear (18-304-BL)
b. installed R2/Prothane bushings in front (from robert at mvpmotorsports.com)
c. Superpro supplemental inserts in rear (yes these did make things better)
d. Figs Engineering Rear toe links
note: they are 3/8" longer than the stockers so if your setup needs more toe in and can't stand to lose at much per side of adjustment tell them so they can make you shorter ones.
e. New rack and pinion
d. replaced all seals in power steering pump
3. power steering system leak:
Solution:
a. replaced the seals in the pump
b. replaced the low pressure line from the reservoir to the steel line
4. busted fuel gauge and cluster is pretty worn out
Solution:
a. new upgraded cluster from TaninAutoElectronix
5. car won't start sometimes
Solution: replace worn contacts in starter.
One side done so you can see the comparison:
6. EGR code
Solution: Delete the EGR with PHR EGR delete kit.
7. crack in passengers interior door window trim panel
8. door panel mounts need some attention
9. couple trouble spots on the paint but they're hard to notice and the rest of the paint is nearly perfect.
10. windshield has some rock chips now to go with its 18 years of scratches.
I will update the problem/solution list as things get corrected.
Project Plan Phases:
1. Fix all the broken and leaking stuff (Complete)
- all new power steering stuff (rack, pump, bushings)
- XERD header and O2 sim to replace dead stock manifold
- new alternator
- new aluminum radiator and various o rings
- rebuilt starter
- restored (mostly) interior
- proper suspension (eibach, stock supra struts, and spacers to line things up)
- rebuilt instrument cluster
2. Supra TT brakes & SS lines (SS lines done, waiting on needing new brakes to get supra calipers)
3. LS swap with T56
4. LSD
5. paint and wheels
Here's how she came:
Phase 1: Making the wrong stuff right
1. Suspension is too stiff for DD use.
Solution:
a. traded megan racing coilovers for Supra struts and Supra Eibach springs
note: the front is still too low for my taste but I can live with less spring travel and some minor rubbing if it gives me a better ride 99% of the time [for free]
b. did the uneven suspension fix to level the car out.
c. supra struts/eibach springs didn't have enough travel in front so I added 1/4" billet spacers to the struts. This gave me enough room to have proper travel which means the car handles better because the tires are tucked anymore. I added 1/8" kydex spacers to the rear to give it another quarter inch of lift.
note: adding spacers will always result in about double the lift of whatever spacing is used due to the angle of the strut pushing on the control arm. a little spacer goes a long way.
2. suspension clunks and inconsistency
Solution:
a. installed Prothane bushings in rear (18-304-BL)
b. installed R2/Prothane bushings in front (from robert at mvpmotorsports.com)
c. Superpro supplemental inserts in rear (yes these did make things better)
d. Figs Engineering Rear toe links
note: they are 3/8" longer than the stockers so if your setup needs more toe in and can't stand to lose at much per side of adjustment tell them so they can make you shorter ones.
e. New rack and pinion
d. replaced all seals in power steering pump
3. power steering system leak:
Solution:
a. replaced the seals in the pump
b. replaced the low pressure line from the reservoir to the steel line
4. busted fuel gauge and cluster is pretty worn out
Solution:
a. new upgraded cluster from TaninAutoElectronix
5. car won't start sometimes
Solution: replace worn contacts in starter.
One side done so you can see the comparison:
6. EGR code
Solution: Delete the EGR with PHR EGR delete kit.
7. crack in passengers interior door window trim panel
8. door panel mounts need some attention
9. couple trouble spots on the paint but they're hard to notice and the rest of the paint is nearly perfect.
10. windshield has some rock chips now to go with its 18 years of scratches.
I will update the problem/solution list as things get corrected.
Last edited by Albatross; 04-17-16 at 07:26 AM.
03-23-14, 07:41 AM
#3
flushed the old brake fluid out with fresh stuff.
old pads and rotors are still good.
new tires for the front (the previous owner had it lowered so much the insides were showing steel while the outsides looked fine)
This afternoon I hope to replace the contacts on my starter. I know its been documented before but I figure having the info in more than one place can't hurt.
old pads and rotors are still good.
new tires for the front (the previous owner had it lowered so much the insides were showing steel while the outsides looked fine)
This afternoon I hope to replace the contacts on my starter. I know its been documented before but I figure having the info in more than one place can't hurt.
Last edited by Albatross; 04-03-14 at 07:08 AM.
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03-29-14, 01:10 PM
#9
Progress report: PS fluid is now good but there are several leaks that are just bad enough to get things dirty underneath. Shifter rattle fixed with a big zip tie. GPS antenna hidden in dash. New cluster lens installed. The car definitely does not have the TRD LSD it suppoedly had (but I didn't think it had one to begin with so its not a big deal) Need new tires in not too distant future since the inside of the fronts are awful. I'll be ditching those 275's out back for 255's in the hopes of better mileage (and less rubbing).
Still not a fan of the coilovers. Car feels a whole lot better now with the good rack bushings. I think there's a leaf or something in the AC blower I need to take care of.
This is what 103K miles on the steering rack bushings looks like:
Replaced with poly ones from MVPmotorsports.com.
I'm pretty sure the plugs had the same mileage from the looks of it.
replaced with NGK's and some wires from vatozone.
Original intake coupler at the throttle body. Vacuum leak much?
Did the BFI intake mod with some lexan I lined with some black toolbox liner material.
I didn't make my own snorkel, just removed the stocker and cut a big hole in the box.
The car came with a drop in K&N.
I'm mostly hoping this will help with mileage as I think its a tad low even for these cars.
Up next on the list is changing out the BLACK brake fluid.
Still not a fan of the coilovers. Car feels a whole lot better now with the good rack bushings. I think there's a leaf or something in the AC blower I need to take care of.
This is what 103K miles on the steering rack bushings looks like:
Replaced with poly ones from MVPmotorsports.com.
I'm pretty sure the plugs had the same mileage from the looks of it.
replaced with NGK's and some wires from vatozone.
Original intake coupler at the throttle body. Vacuum leak much?
Did the BFI intake mod with some lexan I lined with some black toolbox liner material.
I didn't make my own snorkel, just removed the stocker and cut a big hole in the box.
The car came with a drop in K&N.
I'm mostly hoping this will help with mileage as I think its a tad low even for these cars.
Up next on the list is changing out the BLACK brake fluid.
