TheShaddix's Build thread
#63
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Still in the process of ironing out remaining fitment issues. Hit me up via PM if you need help with that. I actually added a 5mm spacer for the rear since I posted the pics and planning on adding a 10mm up front. So far we have pulled the rear fenders flat (originally they curve in), did some bumper/fender bracket adjustment, and so on... And the main problem is that the RS-R sport coilover springs are just way too soft and allow for too much wheel travel, so with any aggressive fitment your rim just hits the fender. But there is a solution for that if you really want to push the fitment on this car.
Last edited by TheShaddix; 04-07-14 at 06:06 PM.
#64
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Norway
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi.
Im thinking of getting some 10,5x20" With 275 in the rear. is that possible With rsr Down springs without any fender/bumper adjustment?
If there is too much complication, I will just go 255 in the rear.
Im thinking of getting some 10,5x20" With 275 in the rear. is that possible With rsr Down springs without any fender/bumper adjustment?
If there is too much complication, I will just go 255 in the rear.
#65
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Depends on your offset. If it's something like +45, it should clear somewhat fine. Anything lower and it'll rub. And the tire size is not your only concern as the rim will hit the fender eventually.
#67
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Still in the process of ironing out remaining fitment issues. Hit me up via PM if you need help with that. I actually added a 5mm spacer for the rear since I posted the pics and planning on adding a 10mm up front. So far we have pulled the rear fenders flat (originally they curve in), did some bumper/fender bracket adjustment, and so on... And the main problem is that the RS-R sport coilover springs are just way too soft and allow for too much wheel travel, so with any aggressive fitment your rim just hits the fender. But there is a solution for that if you really want to push the fitment on this car.
#68
Pole Position
Thread Starter
That's great news for someone shopping for coilovers, but not for those who already bought and installed the rs-r and can't just jump from one to another on a whim, it's not as easy as changing wheels or exhaust. It took me forever to install them with a friend and I'd hate to do it again on the same car, not to mention the cost. Besides, I don't have a house with a garage to work on my car comfortably. So I resorted once again to using spring spacers like I did on my 335i to raise the rear a bit and fix some rubbing. They worked really well while I had that car for about a year, took the springs out at some point and they looked fine. I'm using the metal screw type spacers, not the small rubber ones which are too soft to make any difference. They twist and lock into place between the coils and don't move at all. It locks out several coils on the spring making it stiffer and not compress as much. I also spoke to someone at swift springs when I was trying to get a new stiffer set of springs, and they use those as well on their cars. The result is exactly what I needed, the rim doesn't hit the fender anymore with 5 people in the car. For anyone trying to run ridiculous wheel setups with tons of poke, stretched tires, lowered, etc, this seems to be the only way with the RS-R coilovers (or similar) as they told me they don't make custom spring rates for them. And the black version is simply just a shorter version of the sport (as they told me)
#72
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Muscat
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ichiba. For the front I cut out some section of the fender liners, removed the plastic screws, tucked the liner on the inside of the fender attachment points. For the rear I filed down the area where the fender and bumper meet so it's thin and doesn't stick out. Also I'm planning on doing a pull of the rear fender so that the main edge doesn't go inwards but instead is straight, and also will make sure the bumper follows the new line too. It'll take a lot of work but I want to push the envelope on the fitment a bit. I've seen several setups here with 10.5 rears and similar, and they look nice and clean, but just not aggressive enough. For now still trying to decide which wheels to go with. I have it narrowed down to 3 styles now.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the great feedback on your build Shaddix!
just installed 20mm ichiba spacers on my 350 F Sport. Looks amazing. Although after driving noticed some vibes at 65 mph. Thought it might just be balancing issues so I got that done. reduced drastically but its still there at 65. Have you gone through this by any chance?
Thanks for the great feedback on your build Shaddix!
just installed 20mm ichiba spacers on my 350 F Sport. Looks amazing. Although after driving noticed some vibes at 65 mph. Thought it might just be balancing issues so I got that done. reduced drastically but its still there at 65. Have you gone through this by any chance?
#73
Pole Position
Thread Starter
When you mount your spacers and wheels, make sure you tighten them correctly before lowering the car onto ground. So when you tighten a lug nut on one side, do the next one on the opposite side from the center, and so on so, going in a star pattern ( http://www.urdreamgarage.com/wp-cont...-nut-order.jpg ). This first pass should be done lightly so that the wheel is still able to move around and center itself based on the lug nuts and hub, creating a perfect balance. Then tighten them again in the same way, but this time enough to be able to lower the car. Then one more pass to make sure all are tight, should be about 100 lbs per sq. inch of torque on each or there about. Since ichiba comes with hubcentric rings, there should be no vibrations whatsoever. The only time that'll happen is if you didn't tighten things correctly, or if the tires have flat spots. Also, don't forget to check your lugnuts after driving as things could still become lose.